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Solder Seal by Sopoby

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    Solder Seal by Sopoby

    Haven't check on whether there's other brands, but wondering if anyone's hardwired a battery with these.
    I wonder if the convenience of getting solder that flows under just a heat gun is trading away mechanical durability of the joint?
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Of course I'm wiring 14awg battery leads to my 12 awg motor wire, and of course that's between sizes. The 14 still fits over the 12awg motor wire, so that's the one to use I guess.

    #2
    If you like soldering with a bic lighter go ahead and knock yourself out. At least twist the wires together before flicking your bic.

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      #3
      As someone that has worked with solder sleeves a lot (we sell them at luna) I can say they certainly have their place, and there's a certain flexibility in them you don't get with other solutions. Not physical flexibility, it's not flexible at all far as that's concerned, but matching differently sized wire is less of a concern as is having specialized hardware.

      I guess the thing I like the most about a solder sleeve is how it is just not intimidating. Heating something with a lighter is very simple, there is no weird solder fumes, no need to buy some crimper, or figure out oddball size butt splices you need etc.

      That said, I think it is important to note that on discharge wiring you are working with considerably larger wires than usual. And the larger the wire the more it is going to soak up that heat instead of properly heating up the solder itself. If I use sleeves on discharge wiring it's almost like there is two different stages (that you don't see when working with tiny wires). You got the stage where the sleeves get soft and squishy and the solder goes from a matte ring into a flattened grey band. And to get to this point you gotta hit it with a lighter for a good couple minutes, waving it back and forth so it doesn't, you know, catch fire. Then you got the ACTUAL heat point where it melts and gets shiny and starts flowing.

      Interesting side note here about what can happen if you half-ass it and only melt the plastic. That's a high resistance connection which is going to bottleneck current and create heat. BUT this is a low melt solder, so the question is, will the low melt solder get hot enough to melt into the high resistance connection and repair itself?

      I wish I could say I had the time to do extensive enough testing on this as it's a really good question. What I can say is that the melted solder has a higher resistance than than the solid solder from my testing. HOWEVER, that is not necessarily meaning that a high resistance connection will just burn out. Maybe even with the higher resistance it'll melt enough to the point where the solder flows making a lower resistance on the actual connection, thus cooling and self-repairing the shoddy original connection. Whether this is the case I cannot say. But I can say that we sometimes need to send these sleeves to clients and we have not heard a single complaint so far.

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