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My Ludi V2 X2

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  • rtp
    commented on 's reply
    Is Luna SELLING the controller standalone now - they weren't at least initially. Pls use comment vs new reply if possible ...

  • sendler2112
    The Ludi controller can be installed on any M600. X1, X2, BikesDirect. ect

    Leave a comment:

  • rtp
    commented on 's reply
    sendler2112 - I didn't have an X1 previously, but several have and posted on FB, as well as the X2 using the Dengfu E10 frame - lots of builds on emtb-forums covering the frame. I've yet to see anyone with an X1 saying the geo/frame hasn't improved, but would depend on your riding. Are you debating on used X1 vs new X2 or? (I'd take the X2 solely based on the LudiV2 controller..)

  • sendler2112
    Has anyone ever ridden both the X1 and the X2? What is the real world riding difference in frame geometry?

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  • rtp
    SRAM MatchMaker
    I had picked up a pair of SRAM Matchmaker clamps previously, and finally got around to installing at least one of them after a few rounds of control adjustments, replaced throttle, etc.
    I went ahead and picked up a GX shifter in the meantime, as the original shifter is separate clamp only and won't work with MatchMaker. NX shifters and upwards can be had in MatchMaker-compatible versions, but for a literal few dollars more, the GX has more metal in it's construction over the NX, something like $45 vs $42, so went with the GX shifter - they are all compatible within the Eagle lineup.

    I only did the right hand/shifter side for now as I have a new dropper post and lever to add, while I'm not yet sure which dropper lever I'll wind up using.

    Interestingly, there really isn't any fundamental difference in the MM clamp versus the normal G2 brake lever clamp - other than the added bracket with the red screw protector on in the pic below (which would also fit into the G2 clamp) and the bolt coloring.
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    The range of adjustment comes in on the added bracket - it can be loosened and slid up and down, although at least for me, with the GX shifter, the net was it allowed about as much positioning adjustment as the original shifter did, meaning with a separate clamp shifter, I was limited by the top of the shifter hitting the brake clamp, and with the MatchMaker setup, the limit of the slot for sliding the clamp put it in around the same position.

    How the shifter installs to the MM clamp:
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    and installed on the bike:
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    Overall it's not a huge benefit in my case - I'd like to move the shifter inward/outwards a bit, but that level of adjustability isn't there on this combo.
    Yeah, the bars are slightly cleaner, but I didn't really net much more adjustability. I suspect it may be more useful depending on my choice of dropper lever - assuming it doesn't interfere with the keypad operation if using a horizontal lever.

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  • rtp
    Crank Arms
    The 'deep freeze' finally let up this past weekend, after teasing me with decent temps during the week a couple of times.
    I had ordered a set of crank arms from Miranda, who now makes crank arms for the M500 and M600 ranging from 150mm to 170mm. As I already had the OE 170mm and a set of Luna 150mm, I went ahead and ordered a set of 160mm, mostly for grins. I had originally had some pedal strike issues with the 170mm, and might have gone for the 160mm size if they were available - having said that, the Luna 150mm are light and have had no issues with them.

    Not sure how, but Miranda shipped super quickly - seems like I got them from overseas within a few days, to the point a package showed up and I was wondering what it actually was,, expecting delivery to take weeks instead of days..

    Weights of the pairs of crank arms:
    Bafang 170mm: 566g for the pair
    Miranda 160mm: 514g for the pair
    Luna 150mm: 462g for the pair

    You can see both the Luna and Mirandas are rounded at the ends vs the funky 'hacked off at an angle' look of the Bafang arms.
    You'll have to ignore the scale and 'powder' - was making some pizza dough...

    They did come with their own set of pinch bolts, and pretty much have the same Q factor, curve etc. as both the Bafang and Luna arms.

    Boxed up:
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    Miranda 160mm weight:
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    Bafang 170mm weight:
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    Luna 150mm Weight:
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    Attached Files

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  • rtp
    commented on 's reply
    carlb4u I think there's also some variance in SRAM sizing. Mine were a bit looser than I'd prefer, going to try to put some tape or something underneath. Feel is SOOO much better with less slack, just some concerns over them not popping off when riding over time.

  • carlb4u
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks for your posts ,got Deslackinators kind of pricey but like them.
    made mistake of putting on with cold brakes,half way on downhill run realized brakes were dragging ,easy fix,just took off
    need to install with warm brakes or leave room for expansion.

  • rtp
    commented on 's reply
    The stock display is finr for me and supports the same # of pas levels:

  • rtp
    Parts waiting to go on while we're in a 'deep freeze' of sub-freezing weather. Hopefully it'll reach into 40-something* at least for a bit as both wanting to do some work on the bike and also manage to get at least a short ride in.

    Random note - whenever you are looking to buy a tool from Park Tools, always look at whatever other models they have in the lineup. I've got one of their higher-end repair stands (PRS - 25..)
    which is great, but bought their (cheaper) annoying, cheaper bar holder without looking for others. Then of course found this one which is a bit overpriced but so much more useful:

    Meh - the other one I guess will turn into a paper towel holder or something. :D
    Last edited by rtp; 01-21-2022, 11:24 AM.

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  • Sammy53
    commented on 's reply
    Hi, I swapped out the stock display for an 860C. In that display your able to have 3,5,& 9 assist levels. Also, it's much easier to read with polarized sunglasses.

  • rtp
    commented on 's reply
    Not positive. I think it was Trail but totally unknown at this point, ands seems like some shipped in Street so not sure it's consistent..

  • rtp
    commented on 's reply
    No idea what happened, most pics disappeared - think they're back now, but max of 10 attachments per post = 1 didn't make it back in.

  • rtp
    Paging marcos paxtana and Seb if any of you want to call out any 'badness' in the rites in posts 57 and 58, inject any disclaimers, etc etc. ;)
    Otherwise I'll carry on.. ;)

    Leave a comment:

  • rtp
    I'm pretty ok with the brake lever positioning and the filed down throttle is ok, but there are improvements to be made.
    I picked up Deslackinators ( ) to remove some of the slack/play in the SRAM levers, got a new skinny throttle, and wanted to go the Mirra bar-end mirror a shot as well - need one but dislike most of them. I also picked up a pair of SRAM MatchMaker X clamps.

    Adjusting SRAM brake levers
    This is probably obvious to most, but the G2 Guides do have an adjustment or stop for how far the levers can come when closed towards the handlebars - and your hands. If you haven't set up your levers at all - you should. Angling them to ~45* is a good starting point, but check in both seated (proper riding height) and in post/attack/standing on pedals positions.

    I think the SRAM G2 Guide levers are 'officially' 2 finger levers, but they'll work with more or less however many you want. I ran them as 2 finger, and now moved to single finger, as the brakes IMO are strong enough to stop either end of the bike pretty well. Adjust 'number of fingers' by loosening the clamp slightly with a torx bit (I think it's T15 or T25, don't recall and am inside at the moment), and move it ourboatd/towards the grip if want more fingers on or inboard for fewer fingers.)

    Now, adjusting the single screw - once you have the angle and in/out positioning set, grab the brakes HARD. What you want in general is to be able to brake with maximum force (think of an 'omg wtf moment' and how hard you might brake then) and NOT touch your hand/other fingers or the bars at max brake lever pressure applied.

    The single screw can be turned by hand, most easily without putting pressure on it. I think clockwise brings the lever closer and counter-clockwise further, but you'll see within a few turns/clicks of the screw.
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    Adjust them to suit.

    Once they're adjusted, the lack of a second adjustment becomes obvious, as there's a fair amount of distance from the normal lever position to fully engaged - more $ brakes often have options to adjust this, but we don't n the G2s, which is where the 'Deslackinators' come in... hopefully.

    The Deslackinators ( ) are $25-30 and are pretty clever. They come in different sizes and snap onto the brakes and basically reduce the space before the unengaged lever hits the 'stop' on the brakes. They are 3D printed and come with numerous 'sizes' 2 each in each size, allowing fitment to both sides. The engraved #s are basically how thick the portion is that reduces the contact distance when you let go of the lever.
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    What you want is to remove as much slack (no pressure on lever) as you can, without it causing the brakes to drag. It's possible if you recenter your calipers (loosen 2x bolts on caliper slightly, squeeze brake lever hard to clamp to rotor, re-tighten), you may be able to go 'bigger' on the Deslackinator size. Regardless make sure you are NOT dragging the brakes.

    They literally just pop onto the head of the adjustment screw.

    The whole thing is clever, and low $, but - I'm not sure how they'll hold up over time or if they'll vibrate loose. Will have to see. I may look into adding some kind of stays-pliable putty or something, but at least in worst case there are extras included in the bag. I wound up with 4mm on the front and 3.5mm on the rears, but note the slack will increase slightly as your pads wear down.

    Either way, it's an immediate and noticeable improvement to the brake lever feel for me - I just hope they hold up and don't pop off over time.
    You can see the 'contact point' the Deslackinator contacts in the second pic..
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    New Throttle + moving the dropper post remote
    This ones out of Poland but you can search Alibaba more than likely for something similar - the OE Bafang throttle is just, well - huge and doesn't help at all for control layout ergos. Went ahead and mounted the throttle on the right, moved the dropper remote over to the left, and cleaned up the cables, at least for now (have a dropper post with new remote inbound, so not quite 'done' yet.

    SRAM Matchmaker X Clamps
    I was thinking I'd use one of the pair of clamps to at least rework the brake and shifter side of things, and then wait until the new dropper and remote show up before also using the left side, but - looks like the SX shifter on the X2 isn't matchmaker compatible, as it seems the bar clamp or a portion of it is embedded into the shifter. I only looked at it for a minute, so it's possible I'm wrong on this (let me know if so), but punted on doing anything with it for now.

    The clamps are kind of interesting as the only real different vs the G2 Guide clamps are the extended piece slotted into the open portion or slot on the bar clamp.
    (look at the small bracket with the red protector on it).

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    You can get dropper remotes and most but not all sram shifters and breaks will let you combine to a single bar clamp and adds a bit of adjustment, but again, looked like a no-go for the SX shifter on my X2, so putting on hold, at least for now. Kind of lol the allen screw is silver vs black - will use the ones from the brakes once I do find a use for them..

    Mirra Bar End Mirror
    Gotta have a mirror, even for some trails, and I don't like most bar-ends as they are either goofy and too wide, or they can easily slam your hand if you happen to tap a tree or something. I was going to get a single bar-clamped mirror for the left side, but just couldn't find anything I didn't really dislike, so decided to try a Mirra bar-end, initially 'inside down and backwards' meaning hanging below the bar and inwards vs outwards and above.

    You get a bag of parts, literally wrapped in the instructions, along with two different side end/wedge pieces for different sized bars. The bigger one is the one we want.
    Just use the diagram for assembly but don't tighten the bolt 'expanding the wedge' until you have the assembly tucked inside the bars. If keeping the WTB grips that came on the X2 from Luna, you'll need an Xacto knife or other razor or knife to cut out the end - don't cut extra material, just clear out to be able to reach inside the bars..
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    Final control setup (and least for now)
    Went for a ride after to see what I thought - the mirror worked reasonably well..yeah, your hand will block some of it, but the mirror is relatively wide view and I can see bikes behind me as well as any cars getting close, so going to leave it as is for now. If I were going to be doing a lot or mostly road riding, I'd probably flip it above the bars.
    Throttle works well where it is - looks like it may be in the way of shifting, but it's not, and likewise on the dropper remote on the left.
    Happy with 'em for now anyways.

    Cockpit and front controls layout (and yeah, that is indeed a 'bike bell' - added after a jogger almost sacrificed themselves to my front wheel...)
    Did what I could with the cables for now and they're 'ok' - once I finalize the new dropper and dropper remote, I'll wrap them as well..
    You can see the new (much smaller) throttle on the far right of the right bar just inboard of the grip. It looks like it may interfere with shifting but it doesn't.
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    Last edited by rtp; 01-11-2022, 08:27 AM.

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