Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

My Ludi V2 X2

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • IOUZIP
    replied
    Originally posted by rtp View Post

    Hey - sorry, we were traveling then had a family emergency. Will try to get a log of them, but I run on the lower side of settings as I run 9 level PAS and spend most time in PAS2-3 of 9, Trail mode. I almost never used the throttle so pretty much ignored those settings but just started playing with the PAS specific settings.
    Currently running these settings. PAS 2 of 9 is good for mostly flat riding not offering too much assistance and a nice balance. PAS 3 of 9 is good for most technical climbs. So far zero issue with chain breakage. PAS 4 of 9 is more than enough and have use it for a few climbs but it does make it too easy? PAS 9 of 9 I have tried a few times testing out top speed and it goes 34 mph! Top gear is 10 tooth with 36 tooth ring gear.
    Trail X2
    Throttle Amps 70
    PAS Amps 55
    Power 1250
    RPM 6500
    Throttle Response 0.4
    Throttle Linearity 80
    PAS Response 0.5
    Field Weakening 7
    AMPS Max 25
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • perseverantone
    commented on 's reply
    If planning to run throttle all the time X2 ludicrous can get hot really fast. But if peddling it lasts forever. I love my X2 ludicrous but it took me over 3 weeks, to get her ready to travel on 20+mile runs. Took me forever to figure out the app right. Thank god for forums like this. If you want two batteries & on-demand throttle type power. HPC Revolution is expensive but amazing as well. Cyclone can do 3000 watts continuously in the X2 &Z1 price range.

  • perseverantone
    commented on 's reply
    I actually LOVE the lever that came with the KS E-TEN I, The Plastic piece isn't that great but the rest of the design is awesome. I actually have 170mm Travel adjust PNW Rainier, but I just ordered a 200mm PNW Loam, because the 170mm is a little short, 36mm above the collar, & with a carbon bike, I'd like to have as much insert depth as possible. But we will see if I like the LOAM which isn't a Sealed Cartridge, which means more maintenance. If I don't like Loam gonna just go back to the Rainier3 & return the LOAM, I can get away at level 9 on the insert on the 170mm Rainer 3, but if I ever decide to resell this x2 ludicrous, I want people slightly bigger to be able to ride it as well. PNW now has a lifetime warranty, on dropper posts, so I figured It was a good way to go. I considered the Tellis too. But couldn't find it any bike shops near me to try.

  • perseverantone
    commented on 's reply
    Realized how old it was.
    Last edited by perseverantone; 3 weeks ago.

  • rtp
    replied
    Originally posted by IOUZIP View Post
    What are your VESC settings? I am getting a V2 controller for my X2. Stock battery so limited to 34 amps but should provide 1000 watts max. I cannot find a thread with people sharing VESC config settings.

    I have the VESC tool now and am using the following settings. Not been for a ride yet but this is where I am starting. I have a stock battery BMS so currently I have at 29 Current Max amps.

    throttle amps 90
    pas amps 76
    power 2000
    rpm 5250
    Throttle response .4
    throttle linearity 100
    fixed throttle box checked
    Hey - sorry, we were traveling then had a family emergency. Will try to get a log of them, but I run on the lower side of settings as I run 9 level PAS and spend most time in PAS2-3 of 9, Trail mode. I almost never used the throttle so pretty much ignored those settings but just started playing with the PAS specific settings.

    Leave a comment:


  • IOUZIP
    replied
    What are your VESC settings? I am getting a V2 controller for my X2. Stock battery so limited to 34 amps but should provide 1000 watts max. I cannot find a thread with people sharing VESC config settings.

    I have the VESC tool now and am using the following settings. Not been for a ride yet but this is where I am starting. I have a stock battery BMS so currently I have at 29 Current Max amps.

    throttle amps 90
    pas amps 76
    power 2000
    rpm 5250
    Throttle response .4
    throttle linearity 100
    fixed throttle box checked
    Last edited by IOUZIP; 07-11-2022, 01:18 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • rtp
    commented on 's reply
    JJZ I think the standover heights published are on the higher-than-reality side. Wife has no issues. Been a busy work week w/late nights, but will try to measure standover when I get a chance. My inseam is like 31.5”-32” and it’s just not an issue. I think you’d be fine honestly.

  • JJZ
    commented on 's reply
    Great write up. I am debating between a small and a medium. Curious as to what the step over height is on your medium? I am 5'7" and their sizing charts recommends medium, but according to their specs, the step height is 32" which really seems high for a medium. My inseam is around 30"-31". How well does your wife fit on it?

  • rtp
    replied
    Firmware and app updates, and - iPhone
    (and a few other things like field weakening)

    So Marcos has been hard at work, and a new LudiV2 app along with firmware has been released. Go to one of these locations to get it (and note the user manual has some good added info in it, linked in first thread below in first post)
    https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...-documentation
    https://lunacycle.com/update/

    So unofficially, the Appstore VESC Tool on iPhone (recently released) would work (but not for firmware updates - don't try!), which was great, as I really am not an Android fan, and while I did buy an Android phone dedicated to the bike + travel SIM cards, without having it on a data plan, it wouldn't pull GSP coordinates so wouldn't log them for datalogging rides. Note - the Appstore iPhone app costs a few $ - I think it was like $4. Up to you to buy it, or not - it works well from what I've seen, and they are working on a fix to allow firmware updates to work from it in the future.

    Now, there's a new Luna-specific app and updated firmware release for the V2. The Changelog is in the first link above, but highlights for me = improved dashboard, battery behavior or MUCH improved and buffered, range estimation, the odometer and tripmeter now work, and a handful of others - looks like throttle ramp was increased somehow, and also field weakening, which can allow for higher top speed but at the penalty of added heat.

    Updating is simple - download the updated app from one of the two links above, turn on the bike, connect - I set the phone right above the motor on the frame to ensure connection stays stable (and faster), then update the firmware from the app after ensuring it is showing the motor as Luna_M600. Let it complete - usually a couple of minutes.

    Now, what I've really wanted is to be able to datalog on the iPhone so I can send myself the files to open up in the desktop VESC app, but I fell into a deep dark hole for a bit on this one, as the native VESC file browser (e.g. for choosing a log folder) brings up the app's sandboxed environment looking like a Unix/Linux filesystem, e.g. /var/mobile/Containers/<GUID>/<blah blah/more> while of course the IOS Files app - does no such thing.

    Wasted a ton of time down that black hole looking at different file mgmt tools, considered jailbreaking it, and was just convinced I couldn't 'find' the logs, nor set the log output to somewhere useful, like e.g. Documents/Logs. But it's simple - either you can open Files then search for YYYY-MM-DD, e.g. 2022-05-04 and look for the file with the same at the start of it's name (rest of name is HH_MM_SS or hours, minutes, seconds log started) ending in .csv. Oddly just searching for 'csv' doesn't seem to work for me, but *shrug*

    OR, you know - you can go to Files / On my iPhone / VESC Tool - and there you go. From there, long press, Share, mail or text to yourself, send to dropbox or whatever so you can do analysis in the desktop app. Easy. :D

    Click image for larger version  Name:	VescAppLogfiles.jpg Views:	0 Size:	136.7 KB ID:	151052 Click image for larger version  Name:	VESC-iPhone-dash.jpg Views:	0 Size:	208.8 KB ID:	151053

    I did note the iPhone app does NOT retain the 'enable RT logging' setting across cycles/use unfortunately - hopefully that will be merged in at a later date (the Luna VESC tool does).

    Range is..interesting. It seems quicker to reduce range, e.g. even if you tap the throttle, and not sure on the algorithm and time duration being used, but it's cool to see and can only improve over time. odometer, trip meter, etc. all work - have around 50 miles on the latest and zero issues here.

    Kudos to marcos on the release.

    Oh, also - Luna posted some step by step videos as well:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHsPYdIIRJ8

    Leave a comment:


  • rtp
    replied
    Originally posted by calfee20 View Post

    I bought one of these dropper levers and I rate it as extremely good. [URL="https://www.amazon.com/CRANKBROTHERs-16066-Highline-Remote-Only/dp/B01LZH79XM/[/URL]
    Yeah, there were a pretty good number of possible remotes to sort through. Not a thing wrong with your setup, although the CB remote, at least from what I saw, doesn't have a MatchMakerX/MMX version. Not important for most, but I wanted to see if/how much I could reduce the number of clamps etc., and in this case the Tellis remote worked out pretty well. I've got a few rides in on it now and so far, so good.

    The PNW, Wolf, OneUp and a few others also get generally good reviews. There's a ton out there, was just surprised at how utter crap the RaceFace one was - and of course, random China no-names weren't in consideration, really prefer to do once and be good for a while whenever possible. ;)

    Leave a comment:


  • calfee20
    replied
    Originally posted by rtp View Post
    Dropper Remote
    As mentioned, the Raceface dropper remote that I got with the SDG Tellis dropper, is IMO - a POS. Maybe it's due to mine being used, but I've seen others with the same gripe - the screw clamping the dropper cable doesn't have a washer, and is seemingly made of cheese.

    Went round a few times considering the Wolf LA remote, but I also wasn't entirely sure I'd be able to get a horizontal dropper remote to play nicely with the dorky DPC 240 control pad on the left. Looked at pretty much 'all of the remotes out there,' almost went Wolf, then OneUp, then saw the SDG remote had some extra adjustability in it, even beyond the SRAM MMX mount I was going to give a shot - it slides in and out 3/4" or so, saw no negative reviews on them, so went with the SDG Tellis remote for ~$50. It has a sane cable clamping system with a washer, and a fairly beefy allen head (vs phillips for Raceface - wtf) screw.

    Installation was pretty simple once I grokked how the SRAM MMX pieces went together properly, although I'll probably go back and shorten the dropper sheath a bit later - had chewed up the cable end a fair amount with the RaceFace lever, so really was just wanting a reliable remote again...

    You can get their remote in MMX, Shimano i-spec, and normal bar mount options. I wasn't entirely sure with the angle I run my brake levers if it'd work out...
    The X2 brake clamps are the same as the MatchMaker/MMX clamps, but you need either an MMX kit which then comes with the clamps again, or the part that screws into the clamp slot with s all 90* bracket, which I hadn't seen sold separately. You can see the piece needed to mount MMX to the existing M2 clamps below - look at the silver Torx screw and the small 90* elbow coming off of it.


    Click image for larger version

Name:	DropperRemoteTellisMountingToMMX-1.jpg
Views:	409
Size:	184.5 KB
ID:	149812

    That silver screw lets you slide the whole thing up and down the bars, while the vertical screw going into the remote has another 1/2"+ of in/out adjustment. Do yourself a favor and put it together like shown, tighten the 2 screws to just snug, then loosen half a turn, as you'll want to adjust things once clamped onto your bars and brakes.

    The adjusting nut is longer than I thought it was, but either way, turn it clockwise all the way in before clamping the cable down.

    Not much to it once you get the MMX bits and pair of screws in place - put it back over your bars, pop the brake lever in, then tighten it to barely snug...get on the bike, adjust brake levers first, and then see if you can get the dropper lever situated happily.

    It was pretty tight with the DP C240 control pad, and I'll go back and add a silicon tube over the control wiring to provide some added abrasion resistance, but it worked out pretty well for my ergos. It looks like it may be in the way with the control pad, but on the bike, it's all good.

    Unlike with the RaceFace remote, it actually feels secure. Going out riding tomorrow so will see how she does.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	DropperRemoteTellisAdjustmentScrews.jpg
Views:	408
Size:	91.1 KB
ID:	149811

    Click image for larger version

Name:	DropperRemoteTellisInstalled.jpg
Views:	439
Size:	95.1 KB
ID:	149810
    I bought one of these dropper levers and I rate it as extremely good. https://www.amazon.com/CRANKBROTHERs-16066-Highline-Remote-Only/dp/B01LZH79XM/ref=sxin_14_ac_d_bv?ac_md=3-1-QmV0d2VlbiAkNDAgYW5kICQ1MA%3D%3D-ac_d_bv_bv_bv&crid=1P27LE07RK9NV&cv_ct_cx=dropper+ post+lever&keywords=dropper+post+lever&pd_rd_i=B01 LZH79XM&pd_rd_r=91f94f5b-9de8-467b-83a7-9604e5066551&pd_rd_w=GOcmC&pd_rd_wg=knbyh&pf_rd_p= 54c129c2-85cf-4ab9-9c56-050e3ac14828&pf_rd_r=7WETXQ8GQ0E6ATCYDBPX&psc=1&qi d=1651337316&sprefix=dropper+%2Caps%2C206&sr=1-2-270ce31b-afa8-499f-878b-3bb461a9a5a6

    Click image for larger version

Name:	image_23333.jpg
Views:	307
Size:	107.5 KB
ID:	150877

    Leave a comment:


  • StvMan
    commented on 's reply
    Marcos, Eric mentioned the app will have a slider for the field weakening … will it go beyond the original 7 amps of FW?

  • rtp
    replied
    Built a new wheelset - DT350 Hybrid rear, DT 240S Hybrid front, ARC35s, Alpine III spokes. Chose the ARC35s mainly as they're asymmetric so I wind up at 84R/88% NDS tension vs DS (compared to ~60-something on non-asym wheels). WTB makes an interesting beefy asym 'emtb' wheel, but it's heavy (the HTZ i35 - https://www.wtb.com/collections/e-bi...oducts/htz-i35).

    The Arcs have an interesting history, guess they came from Eaton, then bought by RaceFace. Original rims used a different compound so were on the soft side by some claims, but newer ARCs are using 6069 like most others. I went ahead and used some Sapim MG washers on this build, just for a little bit of added protection - they definitely made the wheel build take longer, but good to go. Amusingly, I did weigh the ARC40 wheelset I pulled off, but managed to forget to weigh the new one, will have to wait until next time they're off the bike. Tubeless, of course. There's also an ARC 'HD' which is a bit beefier, but only comes in i30. I can already notice the difference in sidewall shape between the ARC40 and ARC35 with the same 2.8" tires, so don't want to drop down to an i30 with 2.8" tires.

    I picked the ARC35 primarily due to the rating difference - ARC40 is rated as Trail and All-Mountain, while the 35 is Trail/AM/Enduro, so went for that 'happy medium' in still wanting to build a near bulletproof wheelset (hopefully - if not, will move to the HTZ i35). Chose the DT Hybrids mostly for grins - they have 2.8mm hub-side spoke holes meant for wider elbow-end spokes, larger bearings, etc. - there doesn't seem to be all that much load difference vs DT 350/240 Classics, but there is some, so why not? It was kind of a bitch finding components, thus the 240 Hybrid front, but got it close in price to a 350 Hybrid front... had to order from overseas, but it ironically came in quicker than my US-ordered DT350 Hybrid rear.

    32 hole front and rear - considered 36H for the rear, but the combination of 36H hubs and rims I'd consider just isn't really stable/there consistently yet, let alone trying to order them. Should be fine, but we'll see.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	12-FinalTruing.jpg
Views:	335
Size:	134.8 KB
ID:	150853 Click image for larger version

Name:	NewWheelsetWithTires.jpg
Views:	336
Size:	322.4 KB
ID:	150854 Click image for larger version

Name:	WheelsInstalled.jpg
Views:	322
Size:	321.2 KB
ID:	150855

    Leave a comment:


  • rtp
    replied
    Dropper Remote
    As mentioned, the Raceface dropper remote that I got with the SDG Tellis dropper, is IMO - a POS. Maybe it's due to mine being used, but I've seen others with the same gripe - the screw clamping the dropper cable doesn't have a washer, and is seemingly made of cheese.

    Went round a few times considering the Wolf LA remote, but I also wasn't entirely sure I'd be able to get a horizontal dropper remote to play nicely with the dorky DPC 240 control pad on the left. Looked at pretty much 'all of the remotes out there,' almost went Wolf, then OneUp, then saw the SDG remote had some extra adjustability in it, even beyond the SRAM MMX mount I was going to give a shot - it slides in and out 3/4" or so, saw no negative reviews on them, so went with the SDG Tellis remote for ~$50. It has a sane cable clamping system with a washer, and a fairly beefy allen head (vs phillips for Raceface - wtf) screw.

    Installation was pretty simple once I grokked how the SRAM MMX pieces went together properly, although I'll probably go back and shorten the dropper sheath a bit later - had chewed up the cable end a fair amount with the RaceFace lever, so really was just wanting a reliable remote again...

    You can get their remote in MMX, Shimano i-spec, and normal bar mount options. I wasn't entirely sure with the angle I run my brake levers if it'd work out...
    The X2 brake clamps are the same as the MatchMaker/MMX clamps, but you need either an MMX kit which then comes with the clamps again, or the part that screws into the clamp slot with s all 90* bracket, which I hadn't seen sold separately. You can see the piece needed to mount MMX to the existing M2 clamps below - look at the silver Torx screw and the small 90* elbow coming off of it.


    Click image for larger version

Name:	DropperRemoteTellisMountingToMMX-1.jpg
Views:	409
Size:	184.5 KB
ID:	149812

    That silver screw lets you slide the whole thing up and down the bars, while the vertical screw going into the remote has another 1/2"+ of in/out adjustment. Do yourself a favor and put it together like shown, tighten the 2 screws to just snug, then loosen half a turn, as you'll want to adjust things once clamped onto your bars and brakes.

    The adjusting nut is longer than I thought it was, but either way, turn it clockwise all the way in before clamping the cable down.

    Not much to it once you get the MMX bits and pair of screws in place - put it back over your bars, pop the brake lever in, then tighten it to barely snug...get on the bike, adjust brake levers first, and then see if you can get the dropper lever situated happily.

    It was pretty tight with the DP C240 control pad, and I'll go back and add a silicon tube over the control wiring to provide some added abrasion resistance, but it worked out pretty well for my ergos. It looks like it may be in the way with the control pad, but on the bike, it's all good.

    Unlike with the RaceFace remote, it actually feels secure. Going out riding tomorrow so will see how she does.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	DropperRemoteTellisAdjustmentScrews.jpg
Views:	408
Size:	91.1 KB
ID:	149811

    Click image for larger version

Name:	DropperRemoteTellisInstalled.jpg
Views:	439
Size:	95.1 KB
ID:	149810

    Leave a comment:


  • rtp
    replied
    Rear Light(s)

    I'd been looking on and off for a rear light, ideally one that was motion sensing both for cutoff and for a 'brake light,' but most importantly just for some general visibility as some of our rides are on park trails, greenways and the like, and after years on motorcycles and in small cars, I'm convinced some people really don't pay attention to what's around them.

    I had gotten a 'free' rear light that came with my front Victagen headlight, and while I expected to hate it as a freebie, it was pretty decent but not rechargeable (uses CR2032 cells), which is just kind of silly IMO. Yeah, I used some CR style batteries in some of my rifle optics, but they're intelligent on/off and don't generally stay on for hours every few days, etc.
    The freebie was a simple rubber strap, and had 4 modes - as usual, most of which were annoying like a full fast strobe, but it also had a decent slow cycling pulse, so I pretty much wanted that, ideally rechargeable and with brake/motion-sensing.

    You can see the light in the prior pic in last post - small and out of the way, but gave out enough light. I had also at some point picked up a Milan 'Smart Light' which had a remote, but it was just too big for what I was thinking, which was reinforced after running the freebie one for a while.

    Searched Amazon for a while, and noted when people would post, and eventually came across a RockBros Smart Rear Light. In this case, I got it from AliExpress, and the listing is confusing as hell, but Amazon has at least one of the ~6-7 models listed on AliExpress:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000074337087.html
    https://www.amazon.com/ROCKBROS-Bicy.../dp/B08GP6SN74

    I got the one from Ali with both mounts - if you click through each of the options there, it's kind of bizarre but some have different #s of modes. You can get them with rubber strap mount, with seat rail mount, or with both, for < $20. I went with both as I wasn't sure which route I'd take for mounting, partially depending on mount quality.

    The light showed up and seems pretty solid, actually. The lens seems thick and clear, and the rest of the light including the seat mount is black aluminum. The light 'head' screws in and unscrews from either base as shown below.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	RearLightRockBrosConnections.jpg Views:	0 Size:	155.4 KB ID:	149803

    They include an allen wrench (think it's 2mm, I grabbed a T-handle..), and the orange bits slip inside of the seat rail mount so you're not clamping directly metal to your seat rail.
    Looking at the mounts, I'm sure either is fine - I went with the seat rail mount, unscrewed the pair of screws, added a dab of blue Loc-Tite, and a few minutes later good to go.
    The charge port requires the light head to be unscrewed as it's on the backside, but that's not a terrible thing, mores as they claim it's waterproof. Pushing the center of the light (black button) cycles through all modes. Charge port is sadly micro-USB, but not like I don't have dozens of cables and yet another one comes with the light..

    Click image for larger version  Name:	RearLightRockBrosSeatAttachment.jpg Views:	0 Size:	68.9 KB ID:	149801
    Click image for larger version  Name:	RearLightRockBrosChargeConnector.jpg Views:	0 Size:	77.5 KB ID:	149805

    Click image for larger version  Name:	RearLightRockBrosInstalled.jpg Views:	0 Size:	162.8 KB ID:	149802

    The last pic is kind of crappy, and the light is a full circle when lit; just an artifact of grabbing an iPhone picture.
    Will see tomorrow if the gyro/accelerometer works to act as a brake light, but initial impressions are pretty good for the $. It's tucked out of the way, but should still be nice and visible when I want it to be.
    Last edited by rtp; 04-02-2022, 01:21 PM.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X