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My Ludi V2 X2

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  • perseverantone
    commented on 's reply
    If I was to buy used from Pro's Closet would it be safe to buy a used set of Wheels, &/or Rear shock? I wanted to tear down my Luna X2 & build it back with quality parts. But the Straight spoke hubs are So expensive, my Industry Nine Hydra Turquoise Hub, & Industry nine Backcountry 360 rims & Enduro 305 V3, Also like the DT SWISS XM521. The build I've planned is Hope Pro 4 hubs, & prob Raceface Atlas Arc 40 offset. I want to add cushcore to it as well. My trails are rough & now I need to fix the suspension on my bike as well. Any advice is appreciated. I know this is an older post I'm replying too. If I had to do it all over I'd of bought the Hydra by watt Wagons, & prob by a Bosch Driven Downhill/freeride Emtb, for downhill days. I know Hydra is heavier but at least all 2000Watts are available & if I wanted I could run the throttle all day long. As long as I had enough batteries. Getting a second battery for my X2 has been nearly impossible, & the distance I get out of a single charge is about 30miles if I'm running PAS2, 1250watts, PAS 63, Field weakening 3.0. I realize getting a bigger battery is not going to happen. Even if I had a second battery I know I'd need to let my Engine Cool for 30 minutes to an hour between sessions. Thankfully your guide showed me I don't need to spend ridiculous money, to turn X2 into a quality build, & begin saving up for my next EMTB. I was very disappointed with my X2. It isn't a HIGH QUALITY $8k bike as they market it as. The new FLX WEAPON X is a nice bang for my buck build, but I already got the X2 Ludi. Weapon X is also tuned but doesn't overheat & uses the newest color display unlike the ugly ones avail for X2. All in all it is a very nice M600 build. I like the Bosch for technical riding DH, FreeRide. But for Basic Trail, Roads, gravel= Ultra Bafang motor, & off-road trail/xc/enduro Still with Hydra Archon X1. But I already own the X2 so gotta get the best build I can for the trails out of the X2, without wasting money trying to build it to handle the terrain, it just isn't designed to ride.
    Last edited by perseverantone; 11-17-2022, 05:06 PM.

  • perseverantone
    commented on 's reply
    So I am considering running HOPE PRO 4 hubs w/ Race Face ARC40, & have been considering the Industry nine Back Country 360 rim. I noticed you are running 1 straight-spoked hub and one Jspoked Hub, Is the straight-spoked hub on the front or rear?

  • highrisedrifter
    commented on 's reply
    As someone looking at getting an X2 (or Z1, can't decide if I want the M600 ludi or M620 for my hill climbs), your posts are incredible and i've learned so much in these pages so far. Thank you.

  • IOUZIP
    replied
    Originally posted by rtp View Post

    Hey - sorry, we were traveling then had a family emergency. Will try to get a log of them, but I run on the lower side of settings as I run 9 level PAS and spend most time in PAS2-3 of 9, Trail mode. I almost never used the throttle so pretty much ignored those settings but just started playing with the PAS specific settings.
    Currently running these settings. PAS 2 of 9 is good for mostly flat riding not offering too much assistance and a nice balance. PAS 3 of 9 is good for most technical climbs. So far zero issue with chain breakage. PAS 4 of 9 is more than enough and have use it for a few climbs but it does make it too easy? PAS 9 of 9 I have tried a few times testing out top speed and it goes 34 mph! Top gear is 10 tooth with 36 tooth ring gear.
    Trail X2
    Throttle Amps 70
    PAS Amps 60
    Power 1250
    RPM 6500
    Throttle Response 0.4
    Throttle Linearity 80
    PAS Response 0.5
    Field Weakening 7
    AMPS Max 25
    Attached Files
    Last edited by IOUZIP; 10-26-2022, 04:05 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • perseverantone
    commented on 's reply
    If planning to run throttle all the time X2 ludicrous can get hot really fast. But if peddling it lasts forever. I love my X2 ludicrous but it took me over 3 weeks, to get her ready to travel on 20+mile runs. Took me forever to figure out the app right. Thank god for forums like this. If you want two batteries & on-demand throttle type power. HPC Revolution is expensive but amazing as well. Cyclone can do 3000 watts continuously in the X2 &Z1 price range.

  • perseverantone
    commented on 's reply
    I actually LOVE the lever that came with the KS E-TEN I, The Plastic piece isn't that great but the rest of the design is awesome. I actually have 170mm Travel adjust PNW Rainier, but I just ordered a 200mm PNW Loam, because the 170mm is a little short, 36mm above the collar, & with a carbon bike, I'd like to have as much insert depth as possible. But we will see if I like the LOAM which isn't a Sealed Cartridge, which means more maintenance. If I don't like Loam gonna just go back to the Rainier3 & return the LOAM, I can get away at level 9 on the insert on the 170mm Rainer 3, but if I ever decide to resell this x2 ludicrous, I want people slightly bigger to be able to ride it as well. PNW now has a lifetime warranty, on dropper posts, so I figured It was a good way to go. I considered the Tellis too. But couldn't find it any bike shops near me to try.

  • perseverantone
    commented on 's reply
    Realized how old it was.
    Last edited by perseverantone; 09-03-2022, 06:41 PM.

  • rtp
    replied
    Originally posted by IOUZIP View Post
    What are your VESC settings? I am getting a V2 controller for my X2. Stock battery so limited to 34 amps but should provide 1000 watts max. I cannot find a thread with people sharing VESC config settings.

    I have the VESC tool now and am using the following settings. Not been for a ride yet but this is where I am starting. I have a stock battery BMS so currently I have at 29 Current Max amps.

    throttle amps 90
    pas amps 76
    power 2000
    rpm 5250
    Throttle response .4
    throttle linearity 100
    fixed throttle box checked
    Hey - sorry, we were traveling then had a family emergency. Will try to get a log of them, but I run on the lower side of settings as I run 9 level PAS and spend most time in PAS2-3 of 9, Trail mode. I almost never used the throttle so pretty much ignored those settings but just started playing with the PAS specific settings.

    Leave a comment:


  • IOUZIP
    replied
    What are your VESC settings? I am getting a V2 controller for my X2. Stock battery so limited to 34 amps but should provide 1000 watts max. I cannot find a thread with people sharing VESC config settings.

    I have the VESC tool now and am using the following settings. Not been for a ride yet but this is where I am starting. I have a stock battery BMS so currently I have at 29 Current Max amps.

    throttle amps 90
    pas amps 76
    power 2000
    rpm 5250
    Throttle response .4
    throttle linearity 100
    fixed throttle box checked
    Last edited by IOUZIP; 07-11-2022, 01:18 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • rtp
    commented on 's reply
    JJZ I think the standover heights published are on the higher-than-reality side. Wife has no issues. Been a busy work week w/late nights, but will try to measure standover when I get a chance. My inseam is like 31.5”-32” and it’s just not an issue. I think you’d be fine honestly.

  • JJZ
    commented on 's reply
    Great write up. I am debating between a small and a medium. Curious as to what the step over height is on your medium? I am 5'7" and their sizing charts recommends medium, but according to their specs, the step height is 32" which really seems high for a medium. My inseam is around 30"-31". How well does your wife fit on it?

  • rtp
    replied
    Firmware and app updates, and - iPhone
    (and a few other things like field weakening)

    So Marcos has been hard at work, and a new LudiV2 app along with firmware has been released. Go to one of these locations to get it (and note the user manual has some good added info in it, linked in first thread below in first post)
    https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...-documentation
    ebike , electric bike, bbshd, bbs02, 18650 ebike battery


    So unofficially, the Appstore VESC Tool on iPhone (recently released) would work (but not for firmware updates - don't try!), which was great, as I really am not an Android fan, and while I did buy an Android phone dedicated to the bike + travel SIM cards, without having it on a data plan, it wouldn't pull GSP coordinates so wouldn't log them for datalogging rides. Note - the Appstore iPhone app costs a few $ - I think it was like $4. Up to you to buy it, or not - it works well from what I've seen, and they are working on a fix to allow firmware updates to work from it in the future.

    Now, there's a new Luna-specific app and updated firmware release for the V2. The Changelog is in the first link above, but highlights for me = improved dashboard, battery behavior or MUCH improved and buffered, range estimation, the odometer and tripmeter now work, and a handful of others - looks like throttle ramp was increased somehow, and also field weakening, which can allow for higher top speed but at the penalty of added heat.

    Updating is simple - download the updated app from one of the two links above, turn on the bike, connect - I set the phone right above the motor on the frame to ensure connection stays stable (and faster), then update the firmware from the app after ensuring it is showing the motor as Luna_M600. Let it complete - usually a couple of minutes.

    Now, what I've really wanted is to be able to datalog on the iPhone so I can send myself the files to open up in the desktop VESC app, but I fell into a deep dark hole for a bit on this one, as the native VESC file browser (e.g. for choosing a log folder) brings up the app's sandboxed environment looking like a Unix/Linux filesystem, e.g. /var/mobile/Containers/<GUID>/<blah blah/more> while of course the IOS Files app - does no such thing.

    Wasted a ton of time down that black hole looking at different file mgmt tools, considered jailbreaking it, and was just convinced I couldn't 'find' the logs, nor set the log output to somewhere useful, like e.g. Documents/Logs. But it's simple - either you can open Files then search for YYYY-MM-DD, e.g. 2022-05-04 and look for the file with the same at the start of it's name (rest of name is HH_MM_SS or hours, minutes, seconds log started) ending in .csv. Oddly just searching for 'csv' doesn't seem to work for me, but *shrug*

    OR, you know - you can go to Files / On my iPhone / VESC Tool - and there you go. From there, long press, Share, mail or text to yourself, send to dropbox or whatever so you can do analysis in the desktop app. Easy. :D

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    I did note the iPhone app does NOT retain the 'enable RT logging' setting across cycles/use unfortunately - hopefully that will be merged in at a later date (the Luna VESC tool does).

    Range is..interesting. It seems quicker to reduce range, e.g. even if you tap the throttle, and not sure on the algorithm and time duration being used, but it's cool to see and can only improve over time. odometer, trip meter, etc. all work - have around 50 miles on the latest and zero issues here.

    Kudos to marcos on the release.

    Oh, also - Luna posted some step by step videos as well:
    Find all the most current downloads and information of updating your Luna V2 controller here: https://www.lunacycle.com/update/Find the X2 bike with the V2 c...


    Leave a comment:


  • rtp
    replied
    Originally posted by calfee20 View Post

    I bought one of these dropper levers and I rate it as extremely good. [URL="https://www.amazon.com/CRANKBROTHERs-16066-Highline-Remote-Only/dp/B01LZH79XM/[/URL]
    Yeah, there were a pretty good number of possible remotes to sort through. Not a thing wrong with your setup, although the CB remote, at least from what I saw, doesn't have a MatchMakerX/MMX version. Not important for most, but I wanted to see if/how much I could reduce the number of clamps etc., and in this case the Tellis remote worked out pretty well. I've got a few rides in on it now and so far, so good.

    The PNW, Wolf, OneUp and a few others also get generally good reviews. There's a ton out there, was just surprised at how utter crap the RaceFace one was - and of course, random China no-names weren't in consideration, really prefer to do once and be good for a while whenever possible. ;)

    Leave a comment:


  • calfee20
    replied
    Originally posted by rtp View Post
    Dropper Remote
    As mentioned, the Raceface dropper remote that I got with the SDG Tellis dropper, is IMO - a POS. Maybe it's due to mine being used, but I've seen others with the same gripe - the screw clamping the dropper cable doesn't have a washer, and is seemingly made of cheese.

    Went round a few times considering the Wolf LA remote, but I also wasn't entirely sure I'd be able to get a horizontal dropper remote to play nicely with the dorky DPC 240 control pad on the left. Looked at pretty much 'all of the remotes out there,' almost went Wolf, then OneUp, then saw the SDG remote had some extra adjustability in it, even beyond the SRAM MMX mount I was going to give a shot - it slides in and out 3/4" or so, saw no negative reviews on them, so went with the SDG Tellis remote for ~$50. It has a sane cable clamping system with a washer, and a fairly beefy allen head (vs phillips for Raceface - wtf) screw.

    Installation was pretty simple once I grokked how the SRAM MMX pieces went together properly, although I'll probably go back and shorten the dropper sheath a bit later - had chewed up the cable end a fair amount with the RaceFace lever, so really was just wanting a reliable remote again...

    You can get their remote in MMX, Shimano i-spec, and normal bar mount options. I wasn't entirely sure with the angle I run my brake levers if it'd work out...
    The X2 brake clamps are the same as the MatchMaker/MMX clamps, but you need either an MMX kit which then comes with the clamps again, or the part that screws into the clamp slot with s all 90* bracket, which I hadn't seen sold separately. You can see the piece needed to mount MMX to the existing M2 clamps below - look at the silver Torx screw and the small 90* elbow coming off of it.


    Click image for larger version

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    That silver screw lets you slide the whole thing up and down the bars, while the vertical screw going into the remote has another 1/2"+ of in/out adjustment. Do yourself a favor and put it together like shown, tighten the 2 screws to just snug, then loosen half a turn, as you'll want to adjust things once clamped onto your bars and brakes.

    The adjusting nut is longer than I thought it was, but either way, turn it clockwise all the way in before clamping the cable down.

    Not much to it once you get the MMX bits and pair of screws in place - put it back over your bars, pop the brake lever in, then tighten it to barely snug...get on the bike, adjust brake levers first, and then see if you can get the dropper lever situated happily.

    It was pretty tight with the DP C240 control pad, and I'll go back and add a silicon tube over the control wiring to provide some added abrasion resistance, but it worked out pretty well for my ergos. It looks like it may be in the way with the control pad, but on the bike, it's all good.

    Unlike with the RaceFace remote, it actually feels secure. Going out riding tomorrow so will see how she does.

    Click image for larger version

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    I bought one of these dropper levers and I rate it as extremely good. https://www.amazon.com/CRANKBROTHERs-16066-Highline-Remote-Only/dp/B01LZH79XM/ref=sxin_14_ac_d_bv?ac_md=3-1-QmV0d2VlbiAkNDAgYW5kICQ1MA%3D%3D-ac_d_bv_bv_bv&crid=1P27LE07RK9NV&cv_ct_cx=dropper+ post+lever&keywords=dropper+post+lever&pd_rd_i=B01 LZH79XM&pd_rd_r=91f94f5b-9de8-467b-83a7-9604e5066551&pd_rd_w=GOcmC&pd_rd_wg=knbyh&pf_rd_p= 54c129c2-85cf-4ab9-9c56-050e3ac14828&pf_rd_r=7WETXQ8GQ0E6ATCYDBPX&psc=1&qi d=1651337316&sprefix=dropper+%2Caps%2C206&sr=1-2-270ce31b-afa8-499f-878b-3bb461a9a5a6

    Click image for larger version

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  • StvMan
    commented on 's reply
    Marcos, Eric mentioned the app will have a slider for the field weakening … will it go beyond the original 7 amps of FW?
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