difference between V1 and V2 controllers

[Turdle]

Can someone identify this controller? It was sold to me as a V2, but I want to confirm that is what it is.

[73Eldo]

Some sellers also call them A and B. The one in your photo is the later / current style so V2 or B. The way you can tell is the 3 motor connectors. The later has the pretty generic spade connectors. Early has the Anderson style connectors that are more squared off with larger hard plastic bodies.

[73Eldo]

My reply was assuming the question was related to stock controllers.

[ncmired]

V1 or V2 versus A or B - as 73Eldo pointed out, there's some parts version naming crossover / confusion.

If it was touted as a high power controller, it's not a Luna Ludicrous V2 version controller, which on the inside looks like this:

Some of the other ways to ID Luna's high power V2 controller are:

• The shiny cover finish and ribbing
• (Possibly) the XT90 power connector
• No shift sensor connector

Whether the controller you received is a pseudo high(er) power "V1" controller, I can't say.

Product pages are https://lunacycle.com/secret2/ and https://lunacycle.com/secret-v2/

[AZguy]

Plain and simple - it's unambiguously a V1... V2 is an entirely different animal as ncmired has pointed out

However having said that it looks modded to my eye (the potting doesn't look "original")... the typical mod for more power on a V1 is to decrease the shunt resistance on the current sense to "fool" the controller to think it's using half as much battery current as it really is which will cause all the PAS and max current algorithms to deliver twice what they normally would - i.e. if you set max current to 25A it will actually be 50A (~2500W) and all the current% will be based on that...

[Turdle]

Hey, thanks guys. I had purchased this controller installed in a new motor. I removed it and it's been sitting on the shelf for a while. I decided to sell it, and someone had pointed out that it may be a V1 instead.
Thanks again for all the help.

[73Eldo]

If this was supposed to be a hi po controller all you can go off of is the seller's reputation. I recently helped a guy install a controller he got from some random seller off amazon that is supposedly 3kw and only cost $75 shipped. Thing weighs noticeably less than the stock one based on my finely calibrated left vs right hand balance scale. Much of that weight reduction seems to be that they are using that really special wire that looks like 10 awg silicone but internally is maybe 16 awg at best. I also suspect its a copper plated steel conductor based on how hard it was to solder a normal connector to. The stock battery connector that came on it looked like it would melt at about 5 amps and kinda looked like a Jones plug and the controller end was female so you got to wonder if the battery it was intended for had exposed male pins? The case didn't really feel like aluminum either but I don't know what it was, I suspect plastic except for the mounting holes which seemed to be steel sleeves.

It ran in the work stand is about all I can say for it. Internal wires were so stiff and long it was a huge pain to get it closed up and it didn't help that the mounting holes didn't seem to be quite aligned, had to hog them out a bit with a dremel tool. No markings on it at all anywhere. Plastic bag it came in had some sort of Asian hand writing on it. I can't imagine its going to last. Dude burnt up 2 stock controllers so he must ride pretty hard. I haven't seen him at the bike park which was where I met him since I helped him get that controller installed a few weeks ago.