Luna Cycle Product Re-stock Requests

[kdubz954]

Thank you very much Paxtana that would be awesome!

[paxtana]

They should have been here a while ago, sorry about that. Sure we'll notify you

[paxtana]

It is on preorder right now if you want to get one before this preorder round sells out

[kdubz954]

Any idea when 68 mm BBSHD bare bones motors will be back in stock? and if possible can you add me to notifications for this? Thank you in advance!

[nomin]

When will the Talaria Sting R be in stock? I was going to buy it today, but it went out of stock right as I was going to buy it.

[uoodsq]

Hey there, would love to get a nudge when the BBSHD kits are back in stock. Thanks!

[weaties]

Update - I went ahead and bit the bullet, and ordered a brand new BBSHD motor kit. That came yestereday, and I installed it last night. So far so good. We will see how it does on the actualy commute.

[ncmired]

Golden Motor appears to have some of the type "B" controllers in stock - you'd have to locate some female spade lugs (easy I'd think):

https://goldenmotor.bike/product/bafang-bbshd-1000w-controller/

[weaties]

Thanks you stts for the thoughtful reply. There is a bunch of useful information in there that is actionable.

Additionally, you may have a battery old enough to have it's own issues of cell age, BMS issues, or even battery switch issues. So lots of careful checking is going to have to happen here.

My battery is relatively new, and reads a good solid 58.8 volts off of the charger, and earlier this week was showing plenty of volts after my 10 mile 400` elevation gain commute (something like 53+ with no draw I think) So I am going to put that aside and focus on looking at the tiny wires and connectors on the two connectors in there.

After all that, then maybe think in terms of buying spare parts. The controller could be shot. But since it works sometimes, that is reason to believe it is still capable of working all the time. If you can find other problems in the mix.

You are right, neither this time, nor the first time I pulled the controller out (for what was ultimately a core failure when the bearing that the helical gear sits in failed) was I all that gentle with the wires. While I didn't pull on them directly, they are fragile enough that I could see that a bit of rough handling could have resulted in some un-obvious damage leading to intermittent failures.

Thanks also for the pointers on some of the concerns with switching from a version A controller to a Version B controller. This leads me to believe that my best course of action is going to be double check the connectors super carefully with a bright light, and a good magnifying glass, and if there is nothing obvious, replace the whole motor and stop messing around. This is, after all, my daily commuter, and riding the bus kind of sucks :)

Thank you again!
Dan W

PS - RTV makes a mess, and gets all over everything, so that probably doesn't help either

[weaties]

I'm looking for a BBSHD Controller version A. Any word on when they will be back in stock?

Has anyone tried to replace the Anderson connectors on the motor core, with spade connectors in order to switch to the Version B controller?

I'm _assuming_ that my problem is the controller at this point.

The symptoms I have are:

* that the display comes on with a red edge to the batter, but the voltage reading 58 volts, then the battery fills in.
* When I press the throttle, the watts will go up to 1700 momentarily, and maybe a twitch from the motor, then the wats drop back down.
* Now and again the motor will spin like you one would expect. (both in throttle response, as well as to PAS)

I took the controller apart, and _thought_ I had found the problem, with the red wire having been crushed between the controller and the case years ago when I had to replace the core, and maybe it was making intermittent contact with ground. So I soldered it together with shrink wrap, and bench tested it, and the behavior remained the same :(. (note, only the throttle, and the display were connected to the wiring harness, so it's not a shift sensor, or a brake sensor)

If anyone can point me to better troubleshooting procedures, that would help me isolate the problem to the controller, versus the throttle, versus the display, versus the wiring harness I would appreciate it ;)


This is my daily commuter, so I'm hoping to get it back running soon.

[paxtana]

Good to know, thank you for the feedback @Maly
Was the clearance needed just a small space or how big a difference we talking here?

[Maly]

paxtana thanks for the tip. Here's some late feedback: Some ebay seller had the correct pattern but their M600 advertised cranks did not clear the motor case. I was finally able to find a seller via AliExpress, however, their cranks are all 170mm, which I'm using now.

I would appreciate if you can get 150mm crank arms in stock, and would be interested in buying a set.

[paxtana]

Ok we will get back to you.
That display is currently incompatible with the ludi v2 controller but I understand it is something they are working on.

[highrisedrifter]

Yes please paxtana that would be great. Question: Could I get a bike with a color 860C display that fully functions with the Ludicrous controller? I don't like the smaller black and white one that comes with the bike.

[paxtana]

Hi there, we do not have a specific timeline for medium but can get back to you when restocked if you like?