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52 volt SHARK Battery, HOW TO MOUNT IT?

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  • Itripper
    replied
    Originally posted by Peter Halt View Post
    I have mounted several Shark packs by drilling into the metal plate of the battery holder and installing a rivnut in an aluminum frame for the top plastic hole. Rock solid.
    I did the same, I used the lowest factory hole on the shark pack in my top water bottle mount, and drilled through the metal plate on the shark pack to bolt to the lower hole. Additionally I zip tied the top of the shark pack around the bike frame. It has been a rock solid mount.

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  • Rodney64
    commented on 's reply
    Peter is it possible to post up some photos on how you did this we could make this a topic somewhere.

  • Peter Halt
    replied
    I have mounted several Shark packs by drilling into the metal plate of the battery holder and installing a rivnut in an aluminum frame for the top plastic hole. Rock solid.

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  • Louis
    replied
    Originally posted by OptimusPrime View Post

    Braze-on's, those were the days! But seriously I don't think a rivnut or two would weaken the Townie aluminum frame.
    I don't either, but I did place a call to a local frame builder for his input. I wouldn't hesitate if there were replacement frames out there.

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  • OptimusPrime
    replied
    Originally posted by Louis Luna View Post
    I wish I could find a steel frame in the Townie, Pure geometry. I'd love to have some braze on bits added by the local frame builder.
    Braze-on's, those were the days! But seriously I don't think a rivnut or two would weaken the Townie aluminum frame.

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  • Louis
    replied
    Originally posted by OptimusPrime View Post
    braze-on's[/url]
    I wish I could find a steel frame in the Townie, Pure geometry. I'd love to have some braze on bits added by the local frame builder.

    Leave a comment:


  • thead73
    replied
    Thanks for the Rivnut info, my cannondale comes with 2 rivnuts from the factory but they are way to low to secure the battery. Im just weary the alum down tube is so paper thin the rivnut is much stronger than the thin alum downtube. and with the heavy battery swinging left and right during offroad use i hope it doesnt loosen up the hole i drill in the tube. If i put a few in it might hold tight but i was thinking of a clamp or ss hose clamp around the whole downtube as its so paper thin. Great ideas and great tools guys, thanks

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  • PoweredRide
    commented on 's reply
    Just a couple warnings. I always put one bolt in the metal part of the shark battery and then 2 out on the plastic. The battery is only held to the metal plate by 4 tiny screws so one bolt is enough. 2 out on the plastic as that is where the mount is designed to take the most load. Also would not recommend well nuts due to the weight of the battery. They can only be torqued to about a half a newton meter whereas m5-0.8 steel plated rivnuts are torqued to about 5 newton meters or 10 times the torque. The material drilled out for a well nut is almost double the rivnut size and a steel rivnut can actually strengthen a frame not weaken it. Check out the the cool rivnut tool Louis found earlier in this thread. Mine just came in and it is perfect for setting rivnuts in tight places like the corners of bicycle triangles.

  • OptimusPrime
    replied
    I had the exact same problem as you and decided to take apart the mount and drill a couple holes in the metal part so that it would line up with my too low braze-on's. In addition I drilled a hole in the down tube for a third mounting point and used a well nut that I got at Home Depot, these are easy to install and hold very tight. So man up and drill that frame!!
    http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...ved-my-battery
    Last edited by OptimusPrime; 07-15-2016, 08:24 PM.

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  • Louis
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks for the input.

  • PoweredRide
    replied
    Originally posted by Lance Tesla View Post
    What do you do when the tool won't fit: avoid the job or find another way to "git 'er done"? Can you suggest another way to pull an insert at the top of the triangle......?

    BTW, I would avoid Rivnuts in favor of threaded inserts. In my experience, unless one has the correct tool to cut the locating notch into the hole, Rivnuts tend to catch the screw and rotate after a few uses, you can delay this by putting a dab of metal set epoxy in the bore when installing. Even so I find this sort of threaded insert to be superior: http://www.hansonrivet.com/flush-sty...ed-inserts.htm just be sure you get the knurled type......

    Agree that the bolt and nut method fits the tightest spaces over any tool. The threaded inserts you found look interesting. I have never used them. However, I have never had a rivnut I placed spin on me. They need to be compressed well and have the right grip range specification. Knurled mating surfaces help also. For bike frames the grip range spec should be 0.5-3.0mm. If the grip range is further out from the flange they will spin for sure. These are inexpensive, the right spec and work well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W8TW5W2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have used better ones that have superior plating but they are around $5 each.

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  • PoweredRide
    commented on 's reply
    Cool tool. Fits in tighter spaces than traditional rivnut tools and looks like it gives great control over compression. I think I will get one. :)

  • PoweredRide
    commented on 's reply
    In my experience when you do that the rivnut can spin in the hole and not compress. To prevent that drill a hole in a piece of bar stock or plate and place it on the bolt against the rivnut. This guy shows it pretty well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfQIYLSKGwI

  • Lance Tesla
    commented on 's reply
    What do you do when the tool won't fit: avoid the job or find another way to "git 'er done"? Can you suggest another way to pull an insert at the top of the triangle......?

    BTW, I would avoid Rivnuts in favor of threaded inserts. In my experience, unless one has the correct tool to cut the locating notch into the hole, Rivnuts tend to catch the screw and rotate after a few uses, you can delay this by putting a dab of metal set epoxy in the bore when installing. Even so I find this sort of threaded insert to be superior: http://www.hansonrivet.com/flush-sty...ed-inserts.htm just be sure you get the knurled type......

  • Louis
    replied
    Nah, I like tools. I did see instructions, maybe I'm just old and daft, but the right tool has more often than not been the better solution, for me. I hate making do and buggering something up.
    Last edited by Louis; 07-12-2016, 12:27 PM.

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