18650 vs 21700 battery packs.

[Retrorockit]

Probably. it's still worth something for scrap metal.

[AZguy]

Just use a pry bar?

[Retrorockit]

The lock on this is different too. It's a dead bolt type. if you're used to sticking the battery on the bracket and it's locked you would be wrong. This one needs to be locked with a key.
On my other brackets the lock bolt goes into a blind hole. So there's no way to push it back in with a tool and take the battery. On this one the bolt is exposed at the bottom. Probably to make a thinner bracket. So it needs a deadbolt design to avoid the above mentioned exploit. So if you don't lock it with a key, it's not locked! I suppose someone could drill a hole in the plastic and take the older type that way, so I guess it's better as long as you're aware of the need to manually lock it.

[Retrorockit]

To be fair Eco Cycles sells something from Grin Products called a Triple Bob battery mount. This is an adapter to attach the battery using 2 or 3 hose clamps.
For this particular battery it might move it back into the bolt on category.
https://www.eco-ebike.com/collection...cts/triple-bob
I didn't order one because I don't want hose clamps over the nice Gary Fisher graphics this bike has. This also means your battery can be stolen with a screwdriver.
My other 2 battery brackets both have 3 slotted holes. To get a lower profile on this battery they moved the electrical connector down inside the bracket and removed the third slotted hole.
There are 2 holes hidden inside the metal electrical box. But nothing in the middle part of the bracket.

[Retrorockit]

I'll get some pics. later. Getting the bike running again is job#1.
Looking for comparable batteries I'm finding the 52V. Lune Dire Wolf with 1100Wh $795 (85 x 18650 cells), and some triangle packs with 24AH in the $800 range.
So I think it's worth doing, and the extra mountings actually make sense. Just be prepared for some fabrication to get this installed. I didn't have everything I needed on hand when I started this. Chasing down steel bottle lugs, and special drilling tools took some time. It wouldn't be much trouble if you're prepared ahead of time. LBS rats would have this stuff on hand already.
Drilling 4 holes in a a straight line, on round tubing, in the corners of a bike frame takes a little planning. The disjointed bracket is almost useless as a fixture.
You could probably get away with 2 bolts. But they will be far, apart so drilling will be required. I underestimated this thinking it would be a bolt on deal. It's not!

[AZguy]

..pictures?

[Retrorockit]

Basically what they did was put the plug between the battery and the bracket on the bottom where it takes the place a middle mounting bolt would go.This leaves a pair of mounting holes at either end of the bracket.This means if your bottle bracket is in the middle of the tube you will be S.O.L.as far as mounting this and riding away. The front bracket is a short piece of aluminum that's not attached to anything. It's free to slide into the plug area until it's bolted down. if you use just this to bolt the battery down the only connection between the 14# battery and the bike will be a section of plastic bracket about 3" long. I think the very minimum to mount this would be 1 hole at each end. Way too far apart for any bottle mounting to work. Plan on adding another bottle mount for this battery.Since you will be adding them at the end of the tube where room for a drill is limited plan on having an angle drill, or 90* drill adapter to do this.
Reention avoided this by putting the plug at the back of the bracket, having holes along the whole length, and the 2 metal pieces were bolted to each other. Move it an inch either way and you have 2 holes to use. I guess Hailong expects the bike to be built to fit the battery. I guess having the bolt holes further apart is a more secure mounting. But not user friendly for the casual DIY project.

[Retrorockit]

I got it mounted today. I must say I don't like the bracket on this specific battery. I can usually just stick a bracket in position and transfer the location of the holes and get it mounted. This bracket is in 3 pieces, and 2 of the holes are covered unless you disassemble it. I got it mounted with 4 steel water bottle mounts (only 1 of the existing ones). They also come in Aluminum. I don't recommend those. Tip- It's real easy to drill 2 holes in a straight line. 4 of them not so much. My advice is make a drill guide out of wood. Bolt it to the existing holes. The multi piece bracket is useless for this.
I only ended up with 1 extra hole. I'll wire it up tomorrow. It was too rainy to ride today anyway. I can feel the extra 4# under pedal power.
Eco Cycles sent me a notice to day that the battery had been shipped. 2 days after I already received it. Now that's fast service!

[Retrorockit]

I think this should allow me to take long out and back rides, plus do some dicing with traffic if the need arises. I'd probably have to work at it to run this battery down in one ride. The 16.5Ah wasn't bad about this when new. Almost 50% more capacity is going to be something else.

[AZguy]

That definitely seems like a really good deal

[Retrorockit]

The 21700 battery arrived yesterday. They didn't tell me it had been shipped, and I wasn't expecting Sunday delivery, but whoomp there it was. I now have 3 different 48V. batteries with 3 different chargers, and 3 different mounting brackets. Nothing interchanges. Oh well.
I did some measuring and the new Shark is the same width as the old Shark on the TSDZ2 bike. A little wider than the Reention 16.5Ah battery I had before The height is exactly the same as the Reention 16.5Ah battery It IS an inch longer. The biggest physical difference is weight. The old one is just under 9#, the new one is just over 13#. About 45% more.
The new one has 65 21700 cells inside. 13sX5P=65 cells.
The old battery had 48V.X16.5Ah= 792Wh
The new battery has 48Vx24Ah=1152Wh
1152Wh/792Wh= 1.45 the same 45%
So lets look at cost effectiveness of the 21700 battery. I paid $650. subtract $50 for the included charger lets say $600 is pretty close.
$600/1.45= $413 I don't recall seeing large 48V 18650 packs for that price from known US vendors. It's rated 40A continuous so good enough for a BBSHD.
The price looks a little steep at first but for a BBSHD I think it's the right choice.

Unfortunately the new bracket doesn't line up with the water bottle holes like the old one did. I'm going to have to add a couple more to get the battery low in the frame where I want it. Considering the weight increase an extra mounting or 2 makes sense anyway. I'm pretty sure this weighs more than a water bottle.

[AZguy]

Do it! If I had resources ($ *and* time!) I'd be chasing this stuff

[calfee20]

I just about had to stand on my head to get that photo to post. I made two orders with Vector for around $1500.00. My second order was poorly wrapped and DHL man-handled it, so I lost a $44.00 front hub. Vector's response was VERY poor, and I have not bought anything since.

I believe Stealth makes a similar frame. I have a 100mm BBSHD that isn't doing much. Maybe it is time for another bike.

[AZguy]

Cool picture with the fat mid (although I'd likely prefer a double crown) - I ran across vector a while back but they seemed very focused on the more electric light motos than bikes and also rear hubs instead of mids

Yucky website though... sort of frustrating. I clicked on something that took me to a mid-drive like the one with the fat tires but they were skinny and now no matter what I click on can't get back to it... no real specifications either - wanted to see if I could find the travel

[calfee20]

Here is a DIY in the same style.



This one has a longer wheelbase. It was built many years ago and I think some of the bikes out there are knock-offs of this rig.

https://www.electricbike.com/drunkskunk-fat-bike/