Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

LunaCycle Wolf battery parallel running while solar charging at the same time

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • LunaCycle Wolf battery parallel running while solar charging at the same time

    I'm setting up trikes with Bafang BBSHDs. I plan on running 3 LunaCycle Wolf 52v GA 13.5 in parallel. Ridiculously heavy touring setup.

    I have a 100W solar panel on each trike, with plans to add more on trailers behind each, which I previously used to charge a spare Bionx battery.

    Short system description
    Solar > Genasun GV-10 MPPT charge controller > 12.8V LiFePO4 40Ah battery > 12 to 26V boost converter > spare Bionx battery

    I'm going to build a junction box on the output side isolating each Wolf with a Schottky 80V 100A diode so back cross charging through the output ports wont be an issue, SAFETY!

    What I'm thinking is replace the 12 to 26V boost converter with a boost converter with 52/58V CC/CV regulation and running that into the batteries input ports which will also be parallel. I'm assuming that each battery's BMS will protect it on the input side and the CC/CV will control the charging

    Now my question is does anyone know if the LunaCycle Wolf BMS will allow charging/discharging at the same time? The Bionx system wouldn't allow this. If you applied charging current it disabled output current to the motor even though the system would power on. Thus charging the spare battery and swapping.

    Splitting the load among all of the batteries will maximize by distance because of the reduced load on each and add the solar charging will increase it further.

    Would appreciate any help on the BMS inside the Wolf's

    My other option would be to supply current in parallel to the batteries to the Bafang but prefer the charging option since it maximized my solar.

    Thanks
    Gadgets

  • Gr8fun
    commented on 's reply
    Will look at that. The issue of it shutting down when driving under a shade tree or my shadow going quickly across panel makes it not usable for mobile use..
    Further i am only getting 50 watts production in full sun. Have contacted renogy. Yesterday 80, never even close to 100 watts. Actually produces more at 9 am than noon. So all testing is suspended. May be defect in panel.
    Their tech support has had no experience with boost controller. So looks like difficult situation.

  • pure_mahem
    replied
    Also I found a video by Julius Ilett. anyhow he shows there is a second menu on the MPT 7210a that allows you to switch the default of the controller to on. So when it cuts out or is done for the day when the sun hits the panel it will power up to the saved settings. which you can store 20 settings for charge profiles in the controller. the 2nd menu is accessed by doing a long hold on the set button. most of that information is in this youtube video. https://youtu.be/rC4rF62CHKY

    Leave a comment:


  • pure_mahem
    replied
    I thought you might find interest in this forum post I found yesterday in regards to increasing the performance on the MPT 7210a. Don't even ask me how I found it. It was off a youtube video comment somewhere. I was researching to see if anyone had modified the control to improve the tracking after cloud coverage of panels. Seems these guys ... well that's what they do. If you work your way through the thread they show replacing 3 capacitors that are 100nf with 10nf and it completely optimizes the unit. Best your gonna get with the build at hand so to speak. They say there still is the issue but it does not take as long to recover with this mod...of course the whole forum is in french. Lucky for Google Translator. Anyhow thought you guys might be interested in this possibly might see something else that I didn't in the thread. http://vae-tech.forumactif.org/t111-...-mpp-universel

    Leave a comment:


  • Gr8fun
    replied
    Not sure. Just remember to connect battery first then panel. Turn on. I think if nattery is left connected no reset neccesary. Auto on when sun comes up.
    If sunlight is interrupted it goes to 0 then readjusts for mttp. Loses charge for a minute or two when in shade like a tree.
    maybe a battery between panel and controller would minimize this? Where are you gadgets?.

    Leave a comment:


  • pure_mahem
    replied
    I read that the 7210 operates the unit from the solar side. Will that mean you are going to have to do this type of reset every time your panel isnt supplying enough juice do to shading or Daily if used daily?

    Leave a comment:


  • Gr8fun
    replied
    Found problem. To reset charge controller, disconnect solar panel, disconnect battery Wait several minutes. Then connect battery to controller FIRST. Reconnect controller to panel. Switch on 7210. Amp reads 000. Then rises to .o10 (neccesary current to operate 7210) and climbs on to 1.2 or higher. Charging
    without this reset the scr does not drop to o which allows switch to turn off. Possible!
    Nice thing about this unit it will also charge your 24 to 90 volt batteries from a 12 volt battery. Or 12 volt battery charger . Does a good balance function at end of charge.
    i struction manual says do not subject to vibration. Mount with rubber vibration dampers.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gr8fun
    replied
    So Help. Today same early morning sun same settings, but where it was charging at 1.2 amps uesterday, only generating .13 amps today??? Identical to problem day before. Resat everything but will not kick in to charge.
    what could be problem?

    Leave a comment:


  • Gr8fun
    replied
    8:00 am ..already charging with 1.3amps. Sloppiness in wiring.possibly, the bms caused disappointing results yesterday. This just might wrok out to be very usable.
    will be more careful to make sure data is replicable before posting.
    Yesterdays results were bad. Today is acceptable. The 160 watt may be adequate. panel 2.5 foot by 5.
    the panel Mayhem is looking is glass (not flexible, i would be afraid of. Beakage) 39 inches wde. (@ 29 . inches i am worried about width going down road) weighs over double my panel and frame.
    electrically ..this may provide 1/2 electric needs at 18mph. Recharge quickly. My framing cost dollars in aluminum and untold hours in fabrication.
    Last edited by Gr8fun; 4 days ago. Reason: Sloppy typos

    Leave a comment:


  • pure_mahem
    replied
    I've been looking into panels. Thinking of going pretty big. Basically the panel would be the cover to my trailer or directly attached to it. Option Im currently looking at https://www.solaris-shop.com/rec-n-p...o-solar-panel/ at first I was think this may be to big. But, I went and measured my current cargo trailer and it's right at the same width at its widest point. It's a good price but $150 for freight on top of that. Perhaps I might be able to find one local but doubt it. If I ever find myself in Flagstaff I can pick one up at Arizona Wind & Sun in store no shipping fees but about $25 more. lol thats only about 2500 miles from here. Maybe a bike packing trip that would be epic just not to pay freight on a panel.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gr8fun
    replied
    I had more time to play with controls parameters today.
    the best this would do today was 2 amp charge at noon facing sun. Not enough power to run boost until 10am. Now 2:30 and down to 1 amp
    Cycling on and off
    seems it may be taking .1 amp to run. I tried raising max power point to .19. But still cycles charge from .10 to .95 amp.
    57.10 volts at battery.

    Just repositioned to direct sun. Stabilized at 1.29 amps
    Seems that panel does not have enough power to operate controller snd battery below say 70 wh.( 1.2 amps)
    make sure all connections are tight! This does not tolerate sloppy work.
    more panel run at 24 volt inut would probably be a lot more effective. 160 watts works but more would be better

    Leave a comment:


  • Gr8fun
    replied
    Wired my solar charger parallel to battery.I have not taken this out on a trip yet. Just short rides and charging off the panel. I seem to be getting a charge onto my battery (13.5 ah 52volt luna ga cells shark with a xiao xiang bluetooth bms) consistently above 1.8amps into the battery as measured by the bms and mttp7210A.
    this is equivalent to home 120 v charger....
    using single 160 watt renogy panel.

    Far above my expectations, equaling my hopes.
    I need to do further tests. I believe this performance may exceed Gadgets experience?
    may be some apples and oranges.
    i am happy with the 7210A. Strange stuff in the instruction manual. Like a battery referred to as the accumulator......

    Leave a comment:


  • Gr8fun
    replied
    Single wheel trailer for panel. Tows too easy. Forget it is back there. Panel is impressively long.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • pure_mahem
    commented on 's reply
    thanks for that! the Ja Yoe channel has a lot of interesting things to check out i will have to have a closer look at for sure.

  • Gadgets4grls
    replied
    pure_mahem,

    I'll try and keep this brief but don't know how successful that'll be. For anyone not interest in brakes skip this posting.

    My brakes are cable activated hydraulics, TRP/HY-RD calipers on the trike and a strumey drum brake on the Bob using compressionless brake cable housing. Near as good as full hydraulics and a whole lot easier to work with especially with the trailer disconnect.

    The brakes go like this.

    Cable brake lever to - ProblemSolver Brake Doubler - one cable in two cables out. (Secret if you use these. Use uncoated or remove the teflon from the brake cable where the set screw hold the cable from the lever inside the tube. Also use a generous amount of loctite on both the screw and cable to stop it from slipping.)

    Right side goes to trike right front and trike rear tire. I did this before i ever thought about doing the trailer.

    Left gets a little more complicated front left and trailer. Doubling was easy I'd already figure that out on the right side. What I need though was a way to easily disconnect the trailer. Brake cable splitters were available and commonly used on travel bikes / tandems, but I didn't have anything to hold the housing. I ended up machining out the piece that I needed for that. Hopefully the attached pictures make sense of what I made.

    I went with the drum brake on the trailer for two reasons. First I had a set of the hubs from an old trailer. Second the trailer didn't had anywhere to mount a caliper brake. The drum brake solved both of these problems. I didn't need a special mount for the hub and just had to clamp the reaction arm onto the frame stay. At least on the Bob Ibex. On the Bob Yak I made an aluminum stay that paralleled the tire. Sorry don't have picture of that.

    Matt Galat, JaYoe on YouTube and Web, had a fully hydraulic trike and trailer brake system at one point. took me the longest time to figure out how the quick disconnect worked. Like you, how could you do that without air getting into the system. I think I finally did though. The disconnect didn't combine the fluid what it did is have a piston on the trike side of the QD that pushed a plunger on the trailer side of the QD. This kept hydraulic brakes but he didn't have to worry about air getting into the lines.

    While I know hydraulic brakes give more stopping power I'm super happy with the TRP Hy-RD calipers. In my opinion they are the best option for a touring rig they give 95% of what a full hydraulic system gives and repairs are easier. If i have a failure I can swap out the caliper on the side of the road in 15 minutes without having to worry about bleeding brake lines or dirt contamination. I'm also near a 100% assured that I could find some kind of replacement at most bicycle stores. Any cable caliper would work and you can even find those on the throw away bikes at Walmart as a last resort.

    Hope this makes sense and sorry for getting of topic in this thread.

    Gadgets
    The QD adapter I machined. The thread end on the brake cable mates to the nut on the trailer side. Spring is there to keep tension on the cable when the trailer isn't attached. Reaction arm on the drum brake

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X