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    Battery Pack

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    Last edited by RyanWheatley20; 02-21-2021, 12:55 PM.

    #2
    I haven't done heavy busbar connections like you describe, but one thing I have learned along the way is that you MUST understand what kind of power you are pulling from your batteries, then design your nickel connections to match, and build it into your busbar design. Look around at the guys building drag cars using A123 cells.

    Running off memory, I think you would need dual layers of .2mm X 20mm nickel strip connections to support up to 40A current from each battery. Then figure out how you are going to clamp that against your bus bars.

    Jose

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      #3
      Originally posted by DaHose View Post
      I haven't done heavy busbar connections like you describe, but one thing I have learned along the way is that you MUST understand what kind of power you are pulling from your batteries, then design your nickel connections to match, and build it into your busbar design. Look around at the guys building drag cars using A123 cells.

      Running off memory, I think you would need dual layers of .2mm X 20mm nickel strip connections to support up to 40A current from each battery. Then figure out how you are going to clamp that against your bus bars.

      Jose
      Thank you for responding! :)

      I had an idea in mind as to how I can make the series and parallel connections. I drew up a sketch and linked it below if you don't mind checking it out (Hopefully the diagram is clear)

      https://prnt.sc/102g1jv (Orange wire is the copper busbar, rated up to 450A, while the blue is the fuse)

      After browsing forums and YT videos, I found out about this method. Honestly, I'm leaning more towards this way of connections as it's quite safe. So if a single cell short-circuits, the fuse will melt and protect the other cells in that respective series group. Not to mention I will also be using a BMS as well to which I have a sketch of its connection to the battery unit if you are interested :)

      Thank you again for replying!

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        #4
        The only thing I would caution is that "ohms law" may not be the best gauge for motor current draw. If this is a race application, you may find that you can get away with several times that current for short bursts (and higher voltage, too)...assuming controller, wiring and other components are up to the task.... (think Tesla ludicrous mode). If it is a street application, you may find that you can only draw that current for short bursts before you're up to some nominal speed limit and you drop back to some low current cruise mode.

        The main application I would see ohms law as relatively valid would be lugging up a continuous grade or running max power at a set speed for long periods - and that may be your use case, but just wanted to make a few points for consideration. Will be neat to see how this monster pack turns out!

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