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NS Suburban street bike BBSHD 78V Phaserunner 21s5p

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    NS Suburban street bike BBSHD 78V Phaserunner 21s5p

    Hello! I would like to share the project I've just started for those that might be keen on following the progress and see how it will turn out.

    Recently I've dusted off my old street bike with - similar to a - BMX geometry and 24" wheels, some new rubber and a brake refresh will cover most of the safety issues in it's current state. It's a chromoly frame from 2007 if I recall correctly. Build from scratch and went thru quite some punishment on the streets of The Hague and Rotterdam in the days.

    Some of the specs of the bike that is going to be used:

    NS Suburban frame
    Atomlab handlebars
    24" Atomlab rims with heavy duty DT spokes, 32 front, 36 rear, fitted with new Maxxis Holyrollers
    Bolt on rear Chris King hub, with metal cassette body, quick release CK up front
    Hope front and rear M4 with 200mm disks

    I've ordered a BBSHD, 52v battery and a Phaserunner to squeeze it to it's limits and likely a little beyond that ;-)

    The goal is to create an esthetically pleasing bike, with a clean look. So no cables in sight, nice lines and not much going on in the handlebars area nor anywhere else. Used more as a scooter, but with very nimble handling, fast acceleration and more than decent brakes. Sub 50 pounds would be nice, but that's probably a few pounds too much I'm asking for.

    I've started to cut away some metal from the frame, so the motor can be mounted horizontally inline with the bracket and also get some more ground clearance. The downtube has also met the grinder, so a plate can be welded in that accepts the battery nicely on a flat surface. I'm a bit worried about the stress the bolts and rivnuts have to bare, when mounted on a round tube, so this solves that potential issue. Cutting away material gives also acces to the inside of the frame, where the wiring can be laid out, and I'll keep acces to it via some ports.
    One of the last steps will be to connect the top front of the motor to the downtube, so it will become a structural part of the frame. The questionable bracket that clamps (!?!) the motor to the frame, will be welded as well.

    Gearing will be a single speed setup, 30T up front and 12, 13 or 14T at the rear - with 24" wheels - for starters. Might have to change that, depending on the acceleration. 25-35 mph topspeed would be ok without pedaling.

    I've attached some pictures of what's been going on till now, and I'm awaiting a Luna 30T sprocket, a singlespeed spacer set and the Phaserunner. As soon as I get some parts in, I'll update the thread.

    Cheers!





    Last edited by .Eek; 04-13-2021, 10:14 AM.

    #2
    Not to much progress these last days.. received some metal to weld up the frame and test fitted a new Hope front rotor. I won't be using an adapter for the rotor, but will weld on some tabs on the existing mounting area. Frame stickers will be reproduced and are ordered yesterday.

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      #3
      Wasn't planning to in first instance, but also upgrading the battery from a 52v 14s5p to an 72v 20s5p. Openend it up to see the config of the current battery and ordered the needed parts.. Waiting for delivery and can't wait to add some layers ;-)
      What do you think; should I fuse it on 50 or 60 amps combined with the BBSHD? (current is 40 amp) New BMS can handle up to 60 amps.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by .Eek; 02-28-2021, 12:09 AM.

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        #4
        I own a set of Maxxis Hookworms, and I'm not impressed with the grip. Schwalbe has some E bike rated tires that I like better. The weight forward on a mid drive is actually pretty good for street riding because the motor wants to lift the front end in the corners. I find myself having to shift forward to stick the front tire. So the mid drive is a good choice except the weight forward really hurts in sandy conditions. It will be interesting to see how 72V. and what would be short gearing if you were pedaling works out. If 50% more Volatge =50% more RPM I think it will be OK.
        If you're planning on putting the motor inside of a metal ring, be aware that that's where the cooling takes place on the BBSHD. the TSDZ2 has serious cooling issues at 750W because of a covered motor design. Most of the commercially produced bikes built that way are for <350W markets.
        Some people say the capacitors inside the motor are rated for 63V. This doesn't necessarily mean they will explode at 72V. But they will be running out of spec. by about 20%. It might be worth upgrading them. Maybe you have an aftermarket motor controller that takes care of this isssue?
        Last edited by Retrorockit; 02-27-2021, 03:03 AM.

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        • Retrorockit
          Retrorockit commented
          Editing a comment
          The capacitor issue deserves more consideration I think. Capacitors often fail by exploding, 72V. is enough to cause physical harm, and shorted out LiPo batteries are famous for catching fire.

        • 73Eldo
          73Eldo commented
          Editing a comment
          The Phaserunner is a controller. Rated at 24-90v and 90a peaks. 45a steady.

        #5
        watching.... pretty cool so far..... my first bbshd is a win... love it.. now I'm thinking of bumping up.. please keep posting

        Click image for larger version

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ID:	122886

        Comment


          #6
          Funny you mentioned the Hookworm, I loved the bulletproofness of those tires, but man they are heavy... couldn't get a snake bite with those ;-) I still got a 24" laying around, but I wanted new rubber, not 12 year old ones, and they don't produce 24" anymore, so I went for the Hollyrollers. The rubber feels really soft, I wonder how long they'll last.. ;-) What Schwalbes are you referring to? Would be nice some sticky rubber, without too much nobs.

          The controller (Phaserunner) should be able to handle the amps, more worried about the pack (and motor) if I stress it. I'll try to be sensible and start with the 50 amp fuse (to protect the pack) The Phaserunner will be bolted on a flat metal surface that is part of the frame - in front of the battery - so I hope that the frame will double as a heatsink also. Have to be creative with the mounting screws, but that's part of the fun.

          Saturday was all about cleaning the garage, so I was able to move the project to were it belongs today.. Got the grinder and welder out and tacked the first part in place. The second part I started with - the U-bracket - just about clears the rear tire, but that's all it needs.. I might want to add a U-shaped boxtube (is that correct English?) on the inside of the chain stays, but I'm not sure if it would need that.
          Last edited by .Eek; 03-01-2021, 06:53 AM.

          Comment


          • Retrorockit
            Retrorockit commented
            Editing a comment
            Maybe Maxxis has updated their tread compound. The Schwalbes I run are the Big Ben Plus,26x2.15 which is like the Big Apple but with thicker tread blocks and a soft compound for high speed handling on 50kph E bikes.But Supermoto X is the same thing in other sizes like 26x2.4.

            https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_t...s/super-moto-x
            They also have sidewall reflectors which I really like.

            Notching the chainstay is an interesting mod to keep the chain line in. I might have put the gusset(s) above and below the frame to keep the tire clearance there. Maybe even tie the top one into the seat tube
            Last edited by Retrorockit; 02-28-2021, 10:36 PM.

          #7
          Originally posted by powrtripcycles View Post
          watching.... pretty cool so far..... my first bbshd is a win... love it.. now I'm thinking of bumping up.. please keep posting

          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20210216_140815359_HDR.jpg
Views:	511
Size:	2.70 MB
ID:	122886
          Cool.. I used to think the drilled trials rear rims were wide ;-)

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            #8
            Hence the additional batteries are not here yet, I piddled a bit in illustrator. This is the original 52V setup with 70 LG MJ1's.
            Last edited by .Eek; 02-28-2021, 12:38 PM.

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              #9
              And the anticipated new arrangement with 20 cells in series / 5 parralell.

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                #10
                And the alternative that might fit the frame better..

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                  #11
                  Finally received the extra batteries I needed, but that gave me time to work on a project car that has made some progress the past few weeks.
                  I have setup a 21s5p pack, and ordered a smart BMS and a suitable charger.

                  The 35 extra cells almost fit in the standard enclosure ;-) I'll be mocking up a plug and pull a carbon/aramid cover from the mold, so it will fit nicely into the frame. Most likely also going to add a tab on the bottom of the top tube, so it has an extra mounting point, so the structure is more crash resistant.
                  Last edited by .Eek; 04-14-2021, 01:19 AM.

                  Comment


                    #12
                    Short update on the frame.. Welding and painting is done, just waiting for a new headset and then I'll be able to put it all together again in the next few weeks. :-)
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by .Eek; 01-06-2022, 08:44 AM.

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