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2004 Santa Cruz Blur build

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    2004 Santa Cruz Blur build

    This was a relatively simple build. I wanted good power and low noise so the BBSHD was the call. I waited until Luna did their Ludicrous Black Friday sale and boom goes the dynamite.

    SPECS
    2004 Santa Cruz Blur (26” wheels)
    Suspension Fork: Fox Float R with inertia
    Rear Shock: Fox float
    Components: 2002 Shimano XTR Group
    Wheels: Mavic Ksyrium UST Tubeless
    Motor: Bafang BBSHD Ludicrous Edition
    Battery: Luna Wolf Pack V2 52v/12ah

    BEFORE

    #2
    CHALLENGES
    Stabilizer Bar
    I bought the full suspension stabilizer bar from Luna. It just didn’t fit the motor correctly for some reason. Even off the bike, the motor would not line up with the stabilizer bar. I’m guessing this was a one-off issue, as I’ve not read of others that had this issue. This was an easy fix with an angle grinder. I just removed a bit of material and all fits like a charm now.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Blur7.jpg Views:	0 Size:	1.71 MB ID:	127365
    Last edited by BadBac; 1 week ago.

    Comment


      #3

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        #4
        Chain Line
        I originally ordered the Luna Mighty-Mini 30 Tooth chainring, but quickly found the chain-line to be a mess. I could have rearranged the gears on the cassette, but I didn’t really want to lose what would be several gears. So, I sent the Mini back and ordered the Luna Eclipse chainring (42T). This equates to a perfect chain-line. I’m riding the road for now and gearing is excellent for that application. If I decide to go off-road, I may opt for lower gearing via new components.

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          #5
          Suspension Link Protrudes past bottom bracket face.
          So, the angle grinder came in handy once again. There is a suspension pivot built into the bottom bracket shell on the Blur. This would interfere with the triangle mounting plate, as there is just a touch of overlap. I zapped just a bit off the inside of the triangle plate, so they now play together with no interference.

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            #6
            WEIGHT
            The bike with motor and batter comes in just under 50lbs. That is relatively light for a BBSHD build with a Wolf Pack, but it’s much heavier than what I’m used to for sure. You can’t feel the weight at all when riding with throttle or pedal assist. However, when using just pedal power (motor off), it can be a struggle up steep hills. This is another reason I may opt for lower gearing at some point. I’m going to ride it more and make that decision later.

            OVERALL SATISFACTION
            I only have 4 rides on this machine thus far, but it’s really been impressive. It has exceeded my expectations. The throttle is addictive. That instant torque is really amazing. Hold on tight in the first several gears or it will wheelie you off the back … don’t ask me how I know!

            I took my time with this build (my first) and I’m glad I took that approach. I’ve learned much and this forum has been a large part of that education. I’ve a newer mountain bike, so the Blur was really just gathering dust. Now I now have a powerful eBike (eBlur?) that is just simply fun to ride.

            FINAL PRODUCT (for now)

            Comment


            • Mike_V
              Mike_V commented
              Editing a comment
              Nice looking powerful bike @ 50# leave it switched on for that weightless feeling for many miles.
              Good Luck

            • ejphotos
              ejphotos commented
              Editing a comment
              Which brakes are you using? I can see what looks like a heat sink coming off the pads.

            • BadBac
              BadBac commented
              Editing a comment
              ejphotos: FYI the brakes are newer (2020?) Shimano LX hydraulic discs with resin brake pads. The brake PADS have a heat sync built in. They work great. I have these and a set of Shimano XTs on a couple other bikes.They all work very well.

            #7
            There doesn't seem to be too many bikes where a non offset (smaller than 40t) gets you a usable chain line. The newer bikes designed around a 1x just don't leave any room for the gearbox so you end up with spacers that just make things worse and you often can't use the offset rings because there isn't room for those either. For those style of bikes you will have to do something more like a cyclone where the motor drive is outside the chain ring instead of inside.

            I know an easy way to solve that too much response problem. Beer + potato chips + couch + time. That will mellow out the response of these systems. You add 100 pounds they will feel like a 500w hub motor.

            Comment


              #8
              Great looking build BadBac and nice write up!
              These older 26" FS bikes are looking more and more friendly for e conversion...hmmm, decisions decisions lol

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                #9
                That frame is such a great shape for conversion. Unless you are a psycho downhill competitor, I think an older 26" frame can't be beat for e-bike conversion. Price is WAY less than anything from a current manufacturer, and many of the bikes you find will already have all the right upgrades to work well for conversion.

                Plus, you can keep the parts that come off, and convert back if you want to sell it in the future. Then build on a different frame.

                Jose

                Comment


                • Mike_V
                  Mike_V commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Agreed, Jose
                  Why do these designs ~ Mid 2000's ? ~ seem best ?

                  Do these resemble motorcycle suspensions with few pivot bearings and;
                  is a motorcycle design best for a semi custom conversion mid drive eBike?

                • DaHose
                  DaHose commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I'd say your guess is on the right track Mike. The older frames work best, because of the geometry too. Current bikes are longer, with way more slack head angles. The older 26" frames seem to have more open triangles, and downtubes with better angles. That lets motors sight higher up and it leaves good battery mounting spaces. Once you add a motor, the biggest benefit of larger wheels (easier rolling over obstacles) is less important, especially if your run full suspension.

                #10
                Originally posted by 73Eldo View Post
                I know an easy way to solve that too much response problem. Beer + potato chips + couch + time. That will mellow out the response of these systems. You add 100 pounds they will feel like a 500w hub motor.
                Ha ha - I'm working on that bit now!

                Comment


                  #11
                  Originally posted by ejphotos View Post
                  Great looking build BadBac and nice write up!
                  These older 26" FS bikes are looking more and more friendly for e conversion...hmmm, decisions decisions lol
                  Hey ejphotos, here is a picture of what the brake pads look like outside of the calipers ...

                  Comment


                  • BadBac
                    BadBac commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Hey AZguy. The pads are a resin (organic) compound. They are very quiet with great feel. I may try the metallic version to compare once I burn through these guys!

                  • 73Eldo
                    73Eldo commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Interesting that they do a resin with those big heat syncs but I suppose maybe they have some special ingredients to try and make them transfer more heat?

                  • AZguy
                    AZguy commented
                    Editing a comment
                    The organic pads are likely the best at shedding heat but the worst from a wear perspective... if the metallic have those giant heat sinks they could still be pretty darn good
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