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You can try these guys.
But the freewheel layout has the RH bearing too far in from the frame.A Freehub MTB wheel would be better. A whole disc brake wheelset makes even more sense.
I'm having to fix the bent axle issue,but at least I'm getting some mag wheels out of it.
Also the one piece crank will go away with the mid drive. But will the mid drive fit in the gaping hole there?
Hubmotor guys live with the freewheel layout. But the bearings in the freewheel can be sloppy and affect shifting with over 7 speeds and mid drive power.
The solution to all of these problems at once is to start with an old 3x8 disc brake MTB. Threadless headset, 3 piece crank, disc brakes, tough wheels. Not a Walmart look alike. A Trek, Giant, Gary Fisher, KHS, Diamomgback,GT or other actual trail bike.
TBH I don't think that bike is up to much more than the smallest rear hub motor kit.Last edited by Retrorockit; 01-04-2023, 08:06 AM.
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At that level I would just put a 350W hubmotor kit. Set it a 20mph, and fix whatever happens next. You could probably ride pretty far with a 12Ah 48V. battery. But here in FL they steal anything they can. Walmart bikes get stolen all the time. Most bikes in Miami have probably been stolen twice.
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McMaster Carr can provide shafting material if you can use cut threads. I bought the 10mm stuff from Loose Screws, but needed the full 10mm shank for the sealed bearing so went McMC for that. I needed an extended threaded axle to hang a Rapid Rise Saint derailer off the end of a mag wheel with freewheel layout. That's on hold while I sort out the zip tie mod.
I think your brakes may be trailing smoke coming back down that 8 mile hill.At the end of the day a 20 year old 3x8 26" MTB with Avid BB7 cable brakes is hard to beat for a donor bike. My bike originally didn't have discs. They were the latest thing back them. By the time I added them I had spenat 1/2 the cost of the new bike, and thrown 1/2 the bike away. 20 years on and +1500W later it' was money well spent. Now a bik like my Gary Fisher can be found for cheap.
Starting with Avid BB7s i still had to add 200mm rotors and metallic pads to reel it in.Last edited by Retrorockit; 01-05-2023, 07:10 AM.
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48-spoke wheels too? I wonder why they did that. If you ever decide to go with this bike, I'd go with a replacement disc fork Retro has mentioned if the current one is 1 1/8 threadless - or maybe even try the adapters: https://www.amazon.com/DQITJ-Bracket...&ts_id=3494221Last edited by ncmired; 01-09-2023, 08:21 AM.
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Maybe look for a touring bike fork. Something with some actual structural purpose.
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Knobbies actually don't help in sand. They just dig a hole. Street tires work about as well as anything else.
Here's the secret sand technique if your tires aren't wide enough to stay on top. It looks weird as hell too.
if you find yourself running out of momentum to stay on top of the sand try this. Standing on the cranks slam the pedal all the way down and push your body up in the air to pull the bike up with you out of the sand. Then take another "hop" with the other foot. Easier said than done on a heavy Ebike. Fat tires are probably the only real solution. Or front and rear hub motors Riding after it rains and the sand is wet down isn't hard to do in a lot of places.
I'm not seeing a motor yet?
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