HERE is a modified Copy and paste of my eBike build thread from the motorbicycling.com e bike sub forum. ENJOY! :: Time to start a build thread! Had this bike for a while now and been tinking on it here and there. So far I've had: A 90mm Sturmey Archer drum brake laced into the front with black 12G spokes; and a Sturmey Archer 3 speed IGH with another 90 mm drum out back, again with 12G spokes. New WW Thick Bricks. Down hill tubes and a fancy motor cycle headlight with 12V power in a pouch on the bars. Home hammered custom mounting bracket for the light. Pictures! ( last one is Reverend Iggy from "TAXI" )
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Reverend "Iggy" A Felt mid drive Luna-tic
Collapse
X
-
Power source is a car jump starter I got off the "bay" for almost no money. Its almost the same size as my cell phone but will jump a F250 diesel! I got 2; one for the car and one for the bike. Sacrificed the plug in clamps and wired in a on off switch. Put it all in a leather bag on the bars. Ridden it at night a few times just around the block and its plenty bright enough.
Comment
-
Ive had issues using Adel clamps for brake torque arm stays. My solution wasnt pretty but worked very well. I wanted something cleaner for this build so I did a lot of net snooping. Found THIS! Hinged P clamp. Works a treat and strong like bull! Wont be snappin this one. Started a little loose but a rubber spacer filled the void and saved the paint.
Comment
-
NO WAY was I going to drill holes in the steel frame to mount the battery! I looked for a long time and determined I wanted billet clamps found on roll bars of sand rails ect. My down tube is an odd size 1.602 or something like that. Not 1.5 inches. A milled clamp wasnt going to work so I found THESE: http://axiaalloys.com/Universal-Mounting-Points They stretch and clamp in place, cinch down and SHOULD give me some play in fitting the clamp and the battery. If I need more they are easy to get. After ordering I thought the shipping was a little jacked up and went back and did some snooping. $11 UPS ground and 2-3 day delivery OR U.S. Postal Priority Mail $6 and 1 day delivery; which I chose. Well... Turns out they are 1.25 miles from my house. I coulda walked / limped there and had em same day.
Comment
-
Now to get the Ashtabula bearing cups out. They are pressed in and dont wanna budge. BIG Eastwing and a length of steel pipe.6 or 7 determined wacks and they pop right out. They also fly quite some distance once free! New 4 bolt BB went right in after VERY careful alignment of the bolts. No chance of realignment once the "cups" are hammered in.
Comment
-
HOUSTON: WE HAVE A PROBLEM!But I "THINK" an angle grinder may solve it. Interference between the top of part of the motor assembly and the rear bottom bracket / lower frame interface don't wanna play. I'll mark the areas and sent pics to Luna. I have no idea whats behind the metal on that part of the motor; or how thick it is, and I don't want to remove too much from the frame in that place.
Comment
-
emailed Luna Cycles with all the pic's and description. Luna Cycles got back and sent me a pic of the case disassembled and it looked like if I took a bit out of the case with a carbide burr and then grind smooth it would fit. So I did. Thought I would have to take metal off the bike as well but turns out I didn't !! Got a black paint stick and touched it up. I'm back in business!
Comment
-
Chain tensioners are a bit problamatic with the S/A 3 speed. The axle keepers / rotation preventers, and the gear shift mech on the r side interferes; so I had to go my own way. OFF!! TO ACE HARDWARE!! First I bought some stuff. Steel pins Dremel'd in half, some allen screws and big oll heavy washers with an ID same as the anti rotation bits. Used a flappy disc to grind off the excess. Then off to my friend Bob for some welding
Comment
-
First the axle / chain adjusters. Pictures! On the R side the adjuster is kept by the metal bits supporting the shifting cable and stuff. On the L side I just got a large stainless fender washer to make it behave and keep in place. Made a zig zag extension brace for the chain guard Attached Thumbnails
Comment
-
Getting the motor mounted and locked down was a breeze once I figured it out. I bought the "Luna" wrench when I bought the kit and it provides just enough leverage for the steel nut and prob MORE than the aluminum could take. Go carefully with that one. The Eclipse chainring provides near perfect chain line on this cruiser and S/A 3 speed and the tooth engadgment is insane!
Comment
-
Last bit for the day was the battery install. I bought the Axia Alloy 1.5" clamps with female attachments. The allen bolts I bought in 6mm were too big for the battery base; so I reamed em out with a Dremel carbide burr and also had to grind down both the sides and the top of the bolts for no interference with the battery or mounting base once in place. stretching out the clamps a bit more prior to install is highly recomended! I did a little on the first one and ended garfing up the downtube paint. Stretched more on the next one and still mared the paintspred the third out real good and finally had it right. Need to do final adjustmets but at least its on.
Comment
-
The bike is a MONSTER! Torque a plenty! I have managed to miss adjust the S/A 3 speed so its locked in top gear. None the less its quick with pedaling assist across streets and is damn fast on the strates. I'll report more once I have the 3 speed tuned but I put about 15 miles on it today and COULD NOT BE HAPPIER! SILENT! Well. Except for the tire noise: And that's almost nothing. I now have the power to go where I will. I'm no longer limited to the dangerous streets and riding in the gutter. I can ( quietly and slowly ) ride the sidewalks where I previously took my life in my hands, riding in the street; bike lane or no. This my boys is the cats tits! OH! And after 15 miles I still have ~ 1/3 battery left. And I didnt spare the horses!
- Likes 1
Comment
Comment