Utah Trikes Annihilator X90 BBSHD Build

[mtrain13]

For this build, I converted my Utah Trikes Annihilator X90 (Catrike Expedition frame) into an e-X30 using a BBSHD kit from Luna Cycles. You'll understand the naming reference shortly . . .

The donor tadpole trike started as a Utah Trikes Annihilator X90:

• Catrike Expedition frame
• FSA Gossamer Triple Crank
• Sturmey DualDrive 3 speed rear hub with SRAM X7 10 speed cassette (30 speed total)
• Schwalbe Big Apple 24x2 tires on the front and 28x2.15 tire on the back wrapped around Velocity rims
• Terra Cycle Elite Power Idler
• Avid BB7 Disc brakes on the front
• Utah Trikes custom seat mesh
• Double Mirrycle mirros

After the initial purchase, I also added custom fenders to the front also from Utah Trikes (I had already removed one before this photo. I also added a Utah Trikes custom Bafang Display mount.

For the Luna Kit, I went with a BBSHD kit including:

• BBSHD - 68-73mm
• BBSHD Aluminum Chainring Adapter and 42T Sprocket
• Luna Full Color Display DPC-750c For the BBS02 and BBBSHD
• Bafang BBSHD and BBSO2 Universal Thumb Throttle
• Bafang BBSxx Brakes Pair - Silver
• Speed Sensor
• Gear Sensor
• 48 SHRK GA (I already have two chargers from my previous build)
• Luna Cycles Cyclops LED Light
• Luna Rear Light

I also needed to add the following to accommodate the size of the trike:

• 2x - Bafang Gear Sensor Extension Cables (1 for the gear sensor and one for the second brake handle)
• 2x - Bafang 24" Speedo Extension Cables

Finally, I also bought a TerraCycle battery mount for the Catrike Expedition to allow for an under seat battery mounting point. I also bought a whole lot of XT60 connectors and a couple of XT60 splitters to allow for easy merging of the lights and battery wiring.

Now, in terms of the naming . . . replacing the front FSA Triple crankset with the BBSHD meant I was going from 90 gears to 30. Not a big deal given the power I would have from the motor. Given that instructions exist for mounting a BBSHD kit, I'm not going to repeat those here, but rather call out some trike specific stuff of my build . . .

1. I started by removing the seat mesh and also removing the chain to soak it in degreaser to clean it while I did the rest of the build. The seat mesh definitely gets in the way of the wiring.
2. I then removed the front derailleur and front shifter as shown in the photos. On the X90, I had a bar end shifter for the front, so removed this to allow for the placement of the console mount.
3. Next, I removed the front crankset and replaced it with the BBSHD. I used one shim spacer to ensure a biting grip into the bottom bracket. A word of caution here . . . as the motor mounts on the top of the boom, it wanted to swing down until I secured it. The weight of the cables was pulling it back around, so I secure those with a zip tie until I could tighten the mounting nuts. I also placed a small piece of 1/8" thick rubber between the motor and the boom extension to prevent rub at that point.
4. With the motor now in place, I swapped out the brake levers for the Bafang ones. Not a big deal, but a little more involved on a trike than a normal bike.
5. I put XT60 connectors on my lights, battery cradle, and motor for power connections. This then allowed me to use a splitter at the front of the bike to connect the light wires to the motor wires. I did the same in the rear with the rear light and the battery cradle. I then just needed to create a single extension cable with XT60s on both ends to connect the two splitters. Power wiring now done!
6. I mounted the speed sensor to the existing mount near the front left wheel. This still required two speedo extension cables to reach the connector coming from the controller.
7. The wire for the left brake cut-off connected directly to the console harness, but I needed an extension cable to reach the right brake wire.
8. I also needed an extension cable to reach the gear sensor which I mounted close to the rear cassette derailleur. I did not put a second sensor on the Sturmey IGH as I don't plan on using that while pedalling. I also understand from some of the forums that it is best to keep this in the middle gear when using the motor.
9. I programmed the controller using a modified version of Karl's Secret Sauce. I'll add those settings to a reply to this post.

With all the wiring in place, I put a few wire cover sleeves in key areas and zip tied everything in place. I was a little worried about battery placement with the Utah Trikes custom seat mesh (it has a built in bag), but it fits nicely. I was also a little concerned about moisture running down the wire into the battery cradle, so I sealed that opening with silicone (please comment if this wasn't a good idea).

Let me know what you think!

[mtrain13]

Here are my controller settings that I programmed using the Luna cable . . . On the inaugural ride, I hit 33mph in PAS3 (33% power). I now have to find a long smooth stretch of road to really test it out!

[Rider]

Better put on your full face helmet and leathers! Lol... Be safe out there.

[Riderofbike]

Set the controller for 30A.

[mtrain13]

Thanks for catching that! I did have it at 30, but think it reset when I was playing with the other settings.

[mtrain13]

OK, I now have the first 150 miles on this thing and have a brief word of caution for anyone who is going to replicate this build on a trike . . . ENSURE YOUR HEADSETS ARE TIGHT!!!

Before adding the BBSHD, I noticed a little oscillation / wobble when I would hit a few specific areas of my commute path that have buckled since the 2016 floods here in Houston. I wasn't overly concerned about this as I thought it was just the really rough asphalt surface. However, after adding the BBSHD, I experienced a violent oscillation that can only be described as a "death wobble" when I hit these areas. I had to come to almost a complete stop to regain control of the trike. This wasn't a speed issue as it occurred just as easily at 8 mph as it did at 28 mph on these specific sections of the path.

So, I went back through the trike to ensure everything was secure (or so I had thought), yet still experienced the same death wobble. After some research, I was concerned that the extra weight of the BBSHD on the end of the boom was causing the problem. However, I thought I would try one other fix first . . . I reached out to Utah Trikes to order some new bearings for the headset thinking this might be the problem. They asked if I had tightened it (which I thought I had done). However, they reminded me that I needed to loosen the handlebar bolts first (something that I had forgotten to do). Surprise, surprise . . . Once the handlebar bolts were loose, I found I had two full rotations to tighten the headset--this is an example of my novice "trike" wrench skills.

End result . . . no more oscillation or death wobble. My steering is nice and tight again and I have cruised over those sections of path at speed with no more issues.

[mtrain13]

Update: 05-19-2020

Still loving the powered trike! I've had it at 50+ while pedaling and it is very stable with the big wheels. I'm swapping in some knobby tires this weekend to take it off road.

BTW: I have about 4000 miles on the motor so far and going strong. I've re-greased it each fall as part of my full maintenance on the trike.

[Lakejumper]

I’m happy to hear that you’re pleased with the conversion to the BBSHD. I have that motor on a two-wheel cruiser and am considering getting either a Terratrike Rambler or Traveler and converting it to a BBSHD. I was a little concerned about how it will perform with the long chain of a trike.

[mtrain13]

You'll be happy. Chain length isn't an issue for the BBSHD setup I have.

[mtrain13]

I put the knobbies on the trike and had some fun playing in the mud / dirt. I had to remove the fenders to fit the tires, but it was worth it. I've since gone back to the slicks for road use and now need to build a e-fat trike for true off-road fun!