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To Build a Better Ruffian, I need YOUR HELP

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    #31
    OK, so this Triple Tree Clamp Set I found online looks identical to mine:
    https://www.bicycledesigner.com/bike...hreadless.html
    But I need a set that will reduce the spacing between the dropouts, so it needs to be reduced in width. I can not seem to find one tho. Probably going to just order the entire front fork with proper dropout widths if I can not find just the top and bottom "clamps". If I go that route, I will just ebay the set I have. So lets get into the details of why I DO NOT RECOMMEND RUFF-CYCLES!!!!!!!!

    I HAVE DELETED THIS PART AS I DO NOT FEEL I SHOULD DISCUSS IT HERE. I DO NOT WANT LUNA OR OTHERS DRUG INTO IT. IT IS BEING DEALT WITH OFFLINE. THANK YOU.

    So I CAN NOT RECOMMEND RUFF CYCLES.

    NOTE: For anybody that would like to see the appropriate way for a company to act see https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/
    I emailed them for help on ordering some parts. Then I changed what parts I was going to use from a Sturmey SX-RK3 to a XL-RD3 (disc vs drum brake) and the front hub as well. I did not notice the axle lengths were different. THEY HAVE BEEN AWESOME! They email me within 24-48 hours and seem genuine in concern I get it resolved properly. They offered me options and recourse for a problem that was not event thiers! THAT is a company I will use for life.
    Doug
    Last edited by Defjr333; 03-15-2019, 01:35 PM.

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      #32
      My wheels are finally built so I dropped the frame and other bits off with the bike shop to put it together. Most I could do myself, but a few things like getting the headset right on the threadless, dual coil suspension fork, I'm not so sure. I did get to see the rear wheel up in the frame Fits well, though there will be some interesting bits it looks like getting the torque arm for the drum brake sorted. The wheels do look beefy. Because I had a problem sourcing the 65mm rims I wanted ( but later found ) I have 80mm rims with 12 gauge spokes. Together with the cream tires and the big hubs they look like vintage motorcycle wheels.

      After seeing it fit, and the construction of the rear end which I think is very much like the Bassman, I couldn't help but think about trying to squeeze the frame down to fit a 118mm hub vs the 135mm one. I have to say, if it came to how well I slept at night, I'd be more relaxed about either going with a smaller (70mm vs 90mm) brake in the rear or going with a 5 speed hub with the 90mm brake. Either option makes the hub the standard 135mm width.
      Tweaking the frame just doesn't seem to fit with the rest of the careful build. The dropouts are pretty big, so squeezing them together and having them stay parallel looks like it would be hard to do.

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        #33
        I went ahead and ordered a "proper" front fork with 100mm dropouts. So the front will be fine. Since it was nice out today, I managed to get some more done:-) Tank is now primered and ready for paint as is the rest of the parts(except front fork which is now re-ordered from a different company). I decided to test fit the BBSHD again just to be 100% sure. See pics for how it fits. I decided to keep it elevated off the bottom tube for better cooling and make cleaning easier. I also had a friend from the LBS come by and helped me get the rear dropouts set so the XL-RD3 now fits. Everything is perfectly even and straight!! I did end up about 4 or 5 mm shy of what Sturmey recommends on the axle protrusion, but it comes on and off without issue and all the hardware fits as it should. I have not taken pics of that yet, probably tomorrow will throw those up. I am extremely happy. Too bad the LUNA logo ob BBSHD is upside down.....gotta find a sticker or something.
        Last edited by Defjr333; 03-15-2019, 05:25 PM.

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          #34
          Not much done on bike the last few days. Work been busy, and I am still waiting on the new front fork. Once that is in, I will FINALLY be able to paint. Then it should go together pretty quick. No pics to add today. Hopefully can get some done tomorrow on day off.

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            #35
            Time to go start my old build thread, but thought I'd toss this in here for Defjr333. My bike mechanic built my wheels up OK but was making a hash of the rest, so I brought it home yesterday. To be fair, there was an issue with the fork I'd provided, but rather than check in with me he started doing ridiculous things with it. Anyway... I'd mounted the motor on the frame before giving it to him and he hooked up the chain and mounted the wheels.
            Without the shifting or brake cables, I was at least finally able to swing my leg over the bike and get a feel for it. Due to the fork being AFU I couldn't judge arm reach or posture, but I could put my feet on the pedals. That's a bit of a problem. I'm 5'11", with a pants inseam of 30". I could only reach the pedals at full extension with a fair bit of foot extension. The seat is slammed the lowest. Ruff shows the Seattube to Bottom Bracket as ∼665 mm. Add a 170 mm crank arm and that's 32.8 inches. Oops. I was already concerned about the cranks. The Porucho has 2 sets of dropouts on the rear. The mechanic had used the upper set ( not what I told him I wanted ) which drops the frame an inch to a more lowrider position. When mounted there the pedals drag the ground at the low point with just the slightest tilt. Even if you raise the inside one on a turn it was obvious just rolling the bike into the garage that it would be too dangerous to ride. I'll be moving up the frame to gain the inch. That does nothing to make my legs longer though. So I've ordered shorter crank arms. I've seen ones made for the BBSxx that are 160mm vs the standard 170, but that didn't look like much of an improvement. So I've taken the shotgun approach and ordered 3 sets in 114 mm, 125 mm and 150 mm. All 3 added up to $50, but I didn't want to go back and forth for weeks trying to see what worked best. the 114 mm would be best from a reach/clearance point of view but might be too tiny for any decent pedaling.

            Back to the better Ruffian: The Basman has Seattube to Bottom Bracket ∼685 mm, another 20mm longer than mine, with the stock BBSxx cranks you'll need longer legs than mine. The BB height above the ground looks very similar, maybe a little higher. I'd never searched before today, but found others who put 24" wheels on these bikes and had lots of pedal scrape issues, and some even with 26". Looking at photos I see some that are obviously shorter than your usual crank arms.

            This wasn't an issue I'd anticipated, so I'd suggest getting on the bike and checking those measurements as soon as you can.

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              #36
              Wow. Not something I even thought about thinking about.......While I am 6' I dont want pedals scraping the ground and causing an accident. I appreciate bringing this to my attention. I will do a test fit of my leg position and crank arms as soon as the replacement fork arrives. I do have a few other questions for you if you dont mind Idearat. Since you are the only person I have come across using Sturmey drum hubs, have you had any issues getting them set up? IE: The gear selection parts and cover at the rear hub, any problems in operation of it when the components are not "level on the horizontal chainstay" as the instructions say? Kinda hard when these frames do not have "horizontal chainstays" lol. Also both hubs have an arm/ bracket that needs to be bolted to the frame for proper brake function. Did you need to find/ fabricate any shims/ plates to get the arm on the hubs and the brake mounts on the frame to align? Any way you could throw some pics of the hubs installed that might clear up my thinking? Thanks for the insights and info along this build. Every issue averted makes life easier:-)

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                #37
                My new bike repair stand arrived today, so I started into sorting out what my bike mechanic failed to. I've almost got the brakes sorted.

                First the front: The fork I have (which has issues and is going, but the new one is the same style ) has a square bracket that almost perfectly fits the SA drum arm. If I was keeping this fork I think all I'd have to do is take a file to arm to remove just a little of the fore/aft thickness of the arm. It really is so close to fitting that it seems like extra thick paint is all that's in the way. Without this binding, the hubs fit in the fork fine. Leaving it as-is for now I was able to hook up the cables and the brake stops the spinning wheel. It's nice to have it stop with zero sound. No friction, no rubbing sound, no squeal. I've only had rim brakes in the past and had got used to giving them a squeeze to let people know I was behind them on a path. I'll have to get a bell now.
                The rear is a little more "interesting" though looking at the Basman and Porucho rear dropouts they aren't exactly the same. There's a smaller torque arm that's intended to attach to an included loop that would go around a traditional chainstay. This is also where the threaded adjusting piece is attached. On my frame, there's a huge metal plate that mostly surrounds the hub. When it's mounted the hole for attaching to the clamp is just below the big plate. I'm going to fabricate something that will link the arm to the frame. This is something you need to disconnect to remove the wheel. I'm just looking into resizing my chain, so with that in my mind it might even be possible to use a master link to attach the arm to a hole drilled in that plate.
                The other issue with the rear is the long frame. I'm just able to reach the brake lever, but not an optimal routing at all. I'll have to replace the cable with a longer one.

                Now that I have the wheel in the lower dropout the frame is raised and the pedal scrape danger is much reduced. I can no longer use the pedal as an impromptu kickstand. I still have the reach issue, so I will end up replacing the crank arms, but probably won't have to go so extreme.

                I haven't worked on the gear selection bits yet. I have a plan to put a suicide shifter so that's waiting until other parts are sorted. Attaching two photos, one shows the lame cable routing for the rear brake and another sort of highlights the brake arm.

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                  #38
                  I should have the new front fork tomorrow and with the weather, should be able to paint this weekend!! I do need to fabricate a metal piece to bridge the gap between the frame mount and the arm on the rear hub. Doesnt look too difficult. Spokes have also arrived and I can start lacing them with the hubs, get them trued and be ready to FINALLY start putting all these pieces together! Slow progress, but progress. I SOOO need a bike stand myself

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by Defjr333 View Post
                    I SOOO need a bike stand myself
                    I got this one on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0786YC3LC..._2k6MCb9TE02DS
                    I didn't want to spend a ton of money but needed one that could handle the weight. This one says it's good for 88 lbs. Mine's nowhere near that right now, but it doesn't seem to be stressed. It is tricky to adjust the height went loaded, so you'll want to do that before you mount the bike.

                    The stand has already got good use. I set some things up on my new bike, stripped everything off the old bike and re-assembled a 3rd bike I'd been stealing parts from. All of that was so much faster and with less cursing involved than if I'd had tried to do it on a bike on the floor, or worse, a partially assembled bike on the floor.

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                      #40
                      If for no other reason than less cursing, need to buy it. lol

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                        #41
                        Finally test fit the front hub with the new front fork, Flawless! Fits as it should. So with both those issues taken care of, I need to get the spacer/ adapter plates made for mounting front and rear hub arms(torque arms? Is that the proper word for them?) to the frame. I have made a cardboard replica of what I need and will take them to the local machine shop to have them fabricated from aluminum or steel. Still have not gotten around to the actual paint yet. Been doing anything and everything I can beside that to wait for a nice warm/ calm day or two to get it all painted and clear coat. May be able to this sat and sun. Once that is finished the only real work left to do is lace/ true the rims. The actual putting everything together should be pretty easy, as I have mocked everything up so many times I could probably assembly it asleep. While it seems like not much being done/ posted, it really is getting close.

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                          #42
                          I posted in my build thread, but you might want to look at it. The Ruffian page shows bikes with and without a chain tensioner. The manual for the Ruffian shows it present. It may be that Ruff found the need for it after they started making the bikes. I only have a chain skipping under high torque and they might have had less instances with the smaller motor, maybe only under max load with the rider pedaling hard. I don't see it offered separately, so you'd have to make something to match, or put one at the back end like I'm looking at.

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                            #43
                            Sorry for the long absence. We had a death in the family and had to do some last minute traveling. I should be making some progress tomorrow though. I have made the front and rear brake mount adapters and primed the last of the parts needed to be done before all the family craziness. I STILL need to get everything painted and clear coated. Weather looks like it SHOULD cooperate and allow to do that tomorrow. If weather permits I should have some pics of that to post in the next day or so. Sorry for the delays guys, but you know what they say about life throwing things at you when you least expect it.
                            Idearat- I did notice the chain tensioner, and will be using one. I am planning on one at the rear cog to hopefully get a few more teeth engaged. Even tho I like the looks of the central located one more. Onward and upwards.

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                              #44
                              So the weather FINALLY cooperated with me today! I was able to get the Frame, Rims, Front Fork Downtubes, Fenders, Chaingaurd, and Chainring all painted (3 coats), and clear coat (3 coats) using the SprayMax 2k Basecoat and SprayMax 2k Clear "Glamour Finish". That is over the SprayMax 2k Primer. I ran out and was not able to even start the Tank, much less the Light Buckets for front and rear, plus aprox 20 small parts ( brackets, clamps, screwheads). So, I have ordered another can of base and clear. That should be more than enough to do those plus give me some left over for touching up a couple spots I need to sand on the "finished" pieces that have a few bad runs. Being it was my first time using 2k paint, and my 1st time painting from bare metal, I think it turned out pretty well. As I said, there are a few spots that have bad runs. They are on the face and top of the Chaingaurd (by far the worse of all), a Downtube for the Front Fork (aprox 1"), and on one Rim (aprox 2"). I am fairly sure I can get the 2 small ones fixed. The Chaingaurd may need to be sanded and repainted/ cleared on those spots. While this stuff dries SUPER fast, I cant do the final sand with 2000 grit and polish untill 24 hours min. So I will start on fixing any "orange peel" (not much) and runs tomorrow, or monday. Since it has been a while since new pics added.......here you go guys:

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                                #45
                                And for the parts that had the "runs"......

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