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Progamming for low performance battery and different riding styles

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    Progamming for low performance battery and different riding styles

    After some issues with my BBSHD and the battery cutting out completely ( lights and everything, requiring a power cycle to recover ) I investigated and found that the battery pack I'd originally got almost 2 years ago for my BBS02 could not provide the 30A the BBSHD was trying to draw for extended periods. The Panasonic NCR B cells give it a max current rating of 27A and continuous rating of 20A.

    While I had my fingers in things I thought I'd tweak some other settings, making changes to settings that seem to be different than most of the other configs, like those here here on Penoff's comparison page: https://goo.gl/81WZ3o

    I use the bike for transport, not exercise. Last week it was over 110°F and I could ride to work without a becoming a sweaty mess. Usually my pedaling is limited to starting when stopped at intersection, clown pedaling to look more bicycle-like, or when taking a drink and my hand is off the throttle. The throttle itself has never been too fine a tool for adjusting speed and can be erratic when I hit a bump and I focus more on holding on that keeping it in a single spot, so I wanted to have limited speeds even when using the throttle.
    My riding styles/needs came down to:
    • As I'm not pedaling most of the time, I don't need 9 levels. I'm running with 3, though I could see bumping it up to 5 if I come up with a scenario I hadn't considered.
    • In town I'd like power for acceleration in crossing intersections and not be too worried about the speed creeping up to 30mph at times. For the few blocks I can go before reaching a stop sign or light I'm usually just mashing down the throttle over a 2-3 mile trip.
    • On bike paths: I want to play well with others and endeavor to restrict my speed to the 15 or 20mph limits.
    • Rural roads. Over a 10 mile or so ride (close to 50% of my battery's reliable distance) I'd usually like to just go as fast as I can since there's no one around to be bothered by a bike going faster than expected. For routes with more hills or high winds I'll restrict my top speed to 20mph to extend the riding distance.

    Almost all the programing I found had the throttle match level 9. I wanted to use the throttle as a pseudo-cruise control. I'd hold it down, but the speed I want is sometimes something other than the 32MPH limit of the display. Additionally I wanted to reduce the max and continuous current levels to match my battery. Most of the programming discussions I've seen have revolved around the limits of the BBSHD, not a battery with lower limits.

    Here's what I did:
    • Reduced the max current setting to 25A, a little less than the supposed max of 27A for my battery.
    • Set the max current for all but PAS 9 to 80%, representing the 20A continuous rating of my battery.
    • I run with 3 PAS levels.
      • Level 1 set to 80% current, 65% speed for bike paths
      • Level 2 set to 80% current, 100% speed for rural roads.
      • Level 3 set to 100% current, 100% speed for squirting around town where I never hold speed for very long or just showing off.
    • Under the throttle tab I've set both Assist Level and Speed to "by display's command"

    After a several mile shakedown, it looks like it does what I want. Regardless of whether I'm using the throttle or pedal assist my speed in PAS 1 is right about 20mph max. PAS 2 brought me up to just over 30mph on the flat and hauled my 220lb self up a 3/4 mile grade of 2.5-5% without dropping below 20mph. PAS 3 looked pretty much the same as PAS 2, but I didn't do much to make use of the extra 20% of current for me to see the difference in either acceleration or speed.

    I might fiddle with PAS 0 for a 15mph max and lower current. That would be the "training wheels" setting I'd send someone off to try the bike for the first time. With the the throttle now linked to to the PAS level there's less of a concern that an inexperienced rider would mash it down and take off at 100% power when they aren't ready for it.



    #2
    I went back in and set PAS 0 to 50% power and 15mph top speed. ( or whatever the percentage equivalent was ) I've gone 40 miles or so over country roads, suburban streets and bike trails. When I get on the trails with a 20mph limit I just move to PAS 1 and pedal for appearance sake. In the country where I might be headed into the wind and a continuous slope I set it to 2 for no speed limit but keeping the current limit to what the battery pack supports for sustained current draw.

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      #3
      My 19.8Ah 72V LiMn battery was advertised to be able to supply 60A continuous, but extensive use showed the real value to be 30A continuous. I limited the power to 30A, and I have had no problems other than a nerfed bike.

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        #4
        To idearat; Which one of the profiles did you start with before you made those few changes?
        Thanks
        Gary

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          #5
          That's a neat approach to setting the profiles up for your particular use case. I think I'll try setting up my loaner bike with throttle by displays command, no more newbie backflips would be an AWESOME improvement for that bike.

          Kudos for making that thing YOURS.
          Last edited by JPLabs; 10-02-2017, 02:15 PM.
          Fabrication is fun! Build something today. Show someone. Let them help. Inspire and share. Spread the desire.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Gary Wampole View Post
            To idearat; Which one of the profiles did you start with before you made those few changes?
            Thanks
            Gary
            Sorry for the slow reply. I hadn't touched the programming with this motor since I got it from Luna. It's an BBSHD and came with "hot rod" programming. I'm not sure how that compares to default programming, but I suspect the 30A limit was part of it. A good setting for performance, but only if your battery is up to it.

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