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    Originally posted by Cezar View Post
    Hello,
    I have a question for users of alfine or nexus 8 gears - which gears do you use for the front and rear gears?
    On my BBS02 i have the standard 46T front and changed to a 16T on the Alfine - gives a little more speed, on 26" rims.

    Comment


      Thanks for the answer.

      Interesting - I fight with myself - and once again I change from 19 to 22 at the back. The front has a factory 46 - it seems to me more comfortable - of course slower, but it seems to be safer than 19, and here a colleague writes that he has 16 at the back with the BBS02 engine, and I have some strange objections that 19 is not enough on the BBSHD engine. The fact is that at 22 the first 4 gears are unusable, unless with a very steep climb.
      I will wait for the comments of other users .. alfine / nexus 8 - 28" rims
      Last edited by Cezar; 06-01-2020, 08:46 AM.

      Comment


        I have the 48T on front, and just swapped the rear cog from 15 to 22T. I did this due to smaller rear cogs allow for more chain slip. To offset any loss in speed, I swapped my Sturmey 3 speed IGH to the 8 speed IGH. An increase of gear range from 133% to 325%!!! I have GAINED top end, not lost. Plus no more chain slip.

        Comment


        • Cezar
          Cezar commented
          Editing a comment
          interesting - a move in my direction ..

        Originally posted by Defjr333 View Post
        I have the 48T on front, and just swapped the rear cog from 15 to 22T. I did this due to smaller rear cogs allow for more chain slip. To offset any loss in speed, I swapped my Sturmey 3 speed IGH to the 8 speed IGH. An increase of gear range from 133% to 325%!!! I have GAINED top end, not lost. Plus no more chain slip.
        I thought chain slip was mainly a problem 11 tooth sprockets.

        Comment


        • Defjr333
          Defjr333 commented
          Editing a comment
          The cog that came with the S/A hub was the 11T and it had VERY bad chain slip with as little as 30% throttle. The 15T was slightly better and would only slip on hills or full throttle from stop. With the 22T, I have yet to have it slip. Even with the additional torque the Ludicrous controller provides, I can smash the throttle from a dead stop, even on a steep hill. Now, instead of any slip, I get burnouts. One note for this experience is my frame does require nearly 2 full chains linked together due to its stretch length. Not sure if that has much bearing on it but wanted to divulge in case it could.

        • calfee20
          calfee20 commented
          Editing a comment
          Hmmm what do you have for a chain tensioner. That shouldn't be happening.

        I use those "eyelet" type bolts that just go over the hub axle and press against the dropout/ frame to tension chain, then tighten down the lock nuts. Can not find an actual "tensioner" to fit this frame.

        Comment


        • calfee20
          calfee20 commented
          Editing a comment
          What kind of chain are you using? Not so much the manufacturer but 8, 10, 11 speed?

        Kmc s1 1/2x 1/8.

        Comment


        • calfee20
          calfee20 commented
          Editing a comment
          I looked at a photo of your frame with the horizontal dropouts. I can't think of why you would have any slippage with any sprocket as long as there was some tension on the chain.

        It has been really good this year. No slippage since the re-build. The only thing I could come up with was the length of the frame requires a full 112 link chain, PLUS an additional chain cut down to 102 links connected together. That is a long distance, and the weight could cause it to sag if there is ANY slack. Was also getting side to side "slap" of the chain against the tire and fender(rubbed the paint off a 3" x 1/2" potion of the fender). During the rebuild, I replaced the fenders with new ones due to dents and scratches and installed a clear chain stay protector film where the chain had rubbed before. It has not done it a single time this year. So far, so good. Put about 250 miles on it this week. Will just need to keep an eye on the chain tension. I would however, like to find a better set up than what I currently use to tension with. Would love a recommendation on anything better......... Here are some pics of frame dropouts, and what I am currently using to tension the chain:

        Comment


        • calfee20
          calfee20 commented
          Editing a comment
          What if you get a couple of tubes like they use on recumbent bikes/trikes for the chain to run through. You could attach it somehow to the fender and it would stop the slap. The tubes are available at a Lowes or Home Depot. I think they are in the irrigation dept. You can flare the ends with a heat gun and a metal cone.

        That's why I always read your posts and ask your advice @calfee......seems you think outside the box better than the avg Joe. Will look into that idea. Thnx

        Comment


          My bafang has been factory set for 3 years and I'm anxious to make adjustments. I ordered the programming cable but I'm unable to 'read' or 'write'. These options are greyed out. I'm sure this is something simple to fix. What am I missing?

          Comment


          • Cezar
            Cezar commented
            Editing a comment
            It looks like the battery is not turned on. Just before pressing 'conect' you should connect the battery.

          I changed the battery in my BBSHD from 48v to 52v and unfortunately I got error 07 on the display about protection against increased voltage and of course nothing works. Interestingly, it was my second landing - after the first one everything was ok. I don't know what to do ..

          Comment


            Some controllers are supplied with firmware that throws the 07 error with voltages greater than the upper limit on 48V batteries - where did you get the motor/controller?

            Folks have hacked the code and gotten past it however it's not a simple thing to change and risks bricking the controller although given the alternative of buying a controller that has >48V firmware it might be worth the risk

            Comment


              The engine came to me to Poland directly from China.

              Comment


                I have done updating successfully, but maybe the charger is charging the battery a bit too high - because if I discharge the battery with a normal soldering iron by half a volt everything is fine .. I have to watch the end of charging to finish charging the battery to 58v

                Comment


                  This is well known firmware issue with certain versions of firmware don't play well with 52V packs - I very much doubt it's the battery charging too high

                  From another post "...most controllers don't throw an overvoltage code until something like 61 volts..."

                  One good thing to note is that it can be reflashed with the standard UART "programming cable"

                  Comment


                  • AZguy
                    AZguy commented
                    Editing a comment
                    There may be a different version that works for your controller (or not) - there are different versions of controller hardware and no easy way to tell the difference

                  • Cezar
                    Cezar commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Maybe the best solution is to like what I have - i.e. charging the battery to 58.0v every day and keep an eye on it, and charge it to the full every few or several charges and use a soldering iron to go down to 0.8-1.0 V down.
                    Last edited by Cezar; 08-04-2020, 11:51 AM.

                  • AZguy
                    AZguy commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Learning to accept and love what you have is an excellent trait

                  I am brand new to programming my Luna BBSHD. I am trying to get rid of the annoying display of changing current from 28 Watts to 57 Watts indiscriminately in the first PAS setting while pedaling with a steady cadence. It also happens in the second, third and fourth PAS settings no matter how hard I’m peddling. It always changes 20 to 30 watts while pedaling at a steady cadence. I tried using one of the limitless programs in the Luna zip file without effect. Does anyone have any solutions? Thanks for all your information set forth in this forum generally. Your information here is invaluable.

                  Comment

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