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    Why not post your settings. I think you are probably more likely to get good advice that way. Otherwise there's too much guessing...

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      See basic config below:
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      Pedal
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      Throttle
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      Torque
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      ​​
      There is no throttle attached, I use only PAS, the motor is a bafang bbs01, with the controller replaced to a 48V bbs02 (I wanted to run my old 13S pack with the new bbs01 motor, due to legal requirments I had to have a BBS01 installed on the bike).
      Last edited by pomah86; 05-26-2021, 12:33 AM.

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        try to increase your start current, slow-start mode, and maybe current decay

      • pomah86
        pomah86 commented
        Editing a comment
        Thank you, will check that later today :)

      Aside from what pax pointed out a couple of things jump out... The speed limits in the low PAS's are very low - not sure if you really want to cap them like that... You are also using the software for the ultra which has the torque sensor settings and while it shouldn't be an issue for a BBSxx, I'd use the BBSxx software since it will try and send those settings to it and who knows if that will "confuse" things...

      Comment


        I dont use the software for the "ultra" I use the eggrider display and the screens are from that app.

        I only use 3 PAS levels, and only ride in the highest one, I do not use the other ones. My question was regarding the fact that the bike is interupting the assist if e.g. you are going with the same cadence but the speed of the bike is increased, e.g. wih the help of wind or going downhill, if you then do not stop to pedal but continue all they way, and later on need the power from the motor, it seems like the controller is caped at around half the current level. But if you stop pedaling and start again, the PAS is back with full power. I have not read anyone having this issue, so therefore I ask here.

        Comment


          Gotcha on the eggrider - no wonder the screenshots looked unfamiliar

          I don't really understand your symptoms tho

          How does the speed of the bike increase without increasing pedal cadence short of shifting gears or using a CVT? How fast are you pedaling?

          How are you measuring the current? Are you measuring pedal cadence?

          Comment


          • pomah86
            pomah86 commented
            Editing a comment
            As described, if you accelerate you get e.g. 15A of power, when you start to reach your max speed it decreases to 80%, in my case 12,5 A. If you at that time have head wind or goind down hill bike continues to increase in speed, but you cadence is the same as before, or you some times lower it a little since the resistance to pedal is low and you maybe even want to decrease in speed. At that time the PAS will turn off assistance, if you still continue to pedal, when it later starts up again, you only have around 50% of you max current available, you need to stop pedaling wait for the assistance to stop and then start again.

          • AZguy
            AZguy commented
            Editing a comment
            I think that first part is a function of "keep current" - yours is at 80%

            I still not sure I understand how your pedal cadence can stay the same if your speed is changing

            Since I set all my speed limits to 100% I never hit the limits so don't really ever work in the realm you are talking about but it sounds like a function of the firmware ensure it limits assist when you exceed the limit. I change my speed by changing the assist level or pedaling harder or less and adjust my cadence by shifting gears...

            Other than trying what paxtana mentioned it seems like it just is that way and you already sort of have workarounds

          Super noob here but have been learning everything I can from all the great work done by you guys (read this whole thread a couple time). I have just completed a Luna BBSHD install on a 19" Motobecane Boris X7. I put a Luna 36 front ring on and reshuffled my cassette in the back to straighten out the chain deflection. I still have a range of 11-36 but do it in 6 cogs instead of 10. Basically I have a 28 - 92 gear inch range available to adjust how I apply power to the ground.

          I am definitely not a "spinner", more a diesel truck so a 60-70 cadence is where I would like to maintain my assist levels. I thought I had it all figured out based on my interpretation of AZguys fantastic work but the initial configs and tests I ran did not work out. I somehow got it in my head that the PAS speed limit field was based on motor RPM (Cadence) but in my testing it seems to be based on detected ground speed.

          My question is, is there a way set the motor speed (cadence) dependent on PAS level? I had hoped that setting the current limit % and Speed Limit % would facilitate this but since the Speed Limit % is based on ground speed the gear I am in dictates cadence based on the display max speed setting.

          I have thought about using the speed sensor as an RPM/Cadence sensor. Basically move the receiver to the seat tube, put the magnet on the crank then set the max speed to match a 1 to 1 ratio based on the tire circumference and desired max cadence. This would trick the motor into limiting power based on the percentage set in the speed field based on a top end cadence in a round about way. I know it would throw off the speedo on the display but in my case getting a desired cadence is more important than seeing how fast I am going.

          Thanks for the fantastic information in this thread!

          Comment


            Originally posted by Killobite View Post
            ...I have just completed a Luna BBSHD install on a 19" Motobecane Boris X7. I put a Luna 36 front ring on and reshuffled my cassette in the back to straighten out the chain deflection. I still have a range of 11-36 but do it in 6 cogs instead of 10. Basically I have a 28 - 92 gear inch range available to adjust how I apply power to the ground....
            I prefer not to limit speed in any PAS level these days and just choose to either raise or lower PAS level to adjust speed (or push harder or less ;-} ) so likely not the best to help you so much on that - years ago I had wanted to limit pedal cadence and was able to do that reasonably successfully but don't remember that magic. When I first got back into riding after losing my leg if I tried to pedal faster than about 60RPM my foot would come off the pedal. I've gotten in better shape and have a better leg too and now can turn 70-80 all day and can do bursts that are well into the 110-120 range so that issue is no longer a concern.


            On a different note I have a buddy that I helped convert a Boris X7 with a BBSHD (that later got stolen! =[ ) and it's paining me to hear you are only using 6 of the 10 gears - we easily got all of them going although we did use a chainring with a bit more offset (42t narrow-wide on 130bcd adapter) and I'd suggest considering going with that ring setup. It's not expensive, last time I checked under $50 and with a 11-42t cassette you would get the same low gear with a lot more top... better yet you may be able to get that derailleur to handle 11-46t and you'd have better on both sides but I think I'd do some net searching for that derailleur with 11-46t to see if that's a good option - I won't be surprised if it is. If you end up considering this and find you need a new cassette then look to the sunrace cassettes with all steel cogs - they're a big improvement over the stock ones anyway...

            Comment


            • Cezar
              Cezar commented
              Editing a comment
              Hi,
              Due to the fact that all components of the resistances increase non-linearly in relation to the speed increase - I have proposed a non-linear increase in PAS support - that is, incrementally. My new PAS build scheme uses it like this: the start of the amperage is 24% and it goes up 6,6 + 1, 6 + 2, 6 + 3% .. until it reaches 100%. Non-linear increment seems more natural to me.
              I drove about 7000 km on IGH Alfine 8 (6000 km with 46/20 gears) and now changed to Alfine 11 (with 40/22 gears). Due to the manufacturer's recommendations related to the hub strength - for Alfine 8, the permissible gear ratios are 2 - 2.2: 1, and for Alfine 11 are 1.8-2: 1, this allows the use of a gear ratio such as 40/22, which gives total exposure 0.958 - and this already corresponds to a good MTB with a 11/45 cassette, which is suitable for really steep mountain climbs and mountain trails. On flat terrain, it also gives the possibility of fast driving - with a gear ratio of 3.91 ..
              These gear ratios appear to offer greater opportunities to utilize both the number of gears and the wider utility of the PAS in everyday driving. Cargo bicycle vehicles run much slower with a load and require greater flexibility in gear ratios at lower cadences and considerable power in their speed range. So I would start with an amperage of 40% of the max.

            • AZguy
              AZguy commented
              Editing a comment
              Cezar - I can't agree with you more strongly about a non-linear progression

              As I've posted previously I go with a purely geometric (exponential) progression vs. a linear one - never understood why folks would go linear, it really doesn't make a lick of sense to me

              I differ from you that I start it much lower - presently at 6% for PAS1 which I use more than people might think... each step is about 141% the previous step and two steps roughly doubles the power until at PAS 9 I'm at 100%

            • Cezar
              Cezar commented
              Editing a comment
              Hello,
              Ignoring that "my" PAS starts with 24%, and so I consider my PAS1 and PAS2 useless in everyday use, with PAS3 the fun is just beginning for me. Now I'm going to change the PAS structure a bit and make it more useful and useful to me. I am going to start PAS1 with 40% and then add 4% or 40, 44, 49, 55 etc. At the same time lowering the output amperage to 25 A. I do not need 1.5 kW anywhere - now I am finishing PAS 9 at about 1.2 kW, and I theoretically start with 500 W for PAS1 - although I do not know why I have about 200 W on the display (we have already had discussions about the correct display of power on the CP-18 - I know that it is better to get an independent wattmeter).
              These settings allow you to use more PASs and a more flexible engine operation - and better use of my modest abilities - (I have had both knee surgery and I would not be able to go crazy on a normal bike). I now have a better cadence, I have a different hub - Alfine 11, I have different gear ratios and now I can deal with road cyclists and in the mountains .. and of course also slowly on urban paths among other users. Now the power range is narrowed - and the bike has become usable from PAS1 to PAS9. I have driven about 7.5 kKM and I am constantly looking for optimal engine operating conditions - it is also a lot of fun.

            Originally posted by Cezar
            Ignoring that "my" PAS starts with 24%, and so I consider my PAS1 and PAS2 useless in everyday use, with PAS3 the fun is just beginning for me. Now I'm going to change the PAS structure a bit and make it more useful and useful to me. I am going to start PAS1 with 40% and then add 4% or 40, 44, 49, 55 etc. At the same time lowering the output amperage to 25 A. I do not need 1.5 kW anywhere - now I am finishing PAS 9 at about 1.2 kW, and I theoretically start with 500 W for PAS1 - although I do not know why I have about 200 W on the display (we have already had discussions about the correct display of power on the CP-18 - I know that it is better to get an independent wattmeter).
            That's a linear progression and you may want to consider a more geometric approach - this is mine:

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            I use much less power than you do and typically run at levels 2-4 for casual riding and up to 5-6 for more energetic which is still less than where you are thinking of starting. I ride 0-1 plenty too and sometimes even 7 - it is very rare for me to go any higher than that tho

            When I plug in your numbers into my little spreadsheet to get a geometric progression, here's what I get:

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            This is a handy little spreadsheet calculator - all I did was plug in the changes to the green entries and it churns the yellow. I've posted it earlier in the thread I think. The steps here are geometric here with each step ~112% (1.1214) the previous step. Your range is a lot more limited than mine so going geometric makes less difference but you still may find it a "smoother" ramp up. You could get away with five levels if you wanted too:

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            Comment


            • Cezar
              Cezar commented
              Editing a comment
              Hi,
              Such an exchange of experiences is interesting - maybe someone else will join? Every suggestion is helpful, although I've noticed that a lot of people find the factory settings valid and don't want to try new ones.

            • AZguy
              AZguy commented
              Editing a comment
              Every time I've tweaked someones settings they've been happier - sometimes a heck of a lot happier... I don't think I've ever seen a factory tune that can't be improved and everyone's riding style is different and different bikes benefit from different settings

              There's so much power in being able to tweak them IMO

            Any tips on programming for a heavy front load cargo bike? Torque for hill climbing is the main aim.

            Comment


              So semi-noob here (not to programming, just specifically controller programming).First, Im most definitely thankful for guys like Paxtana, most of the Luna techs (maybe not their marketing folks, but i mean c'mon, what company doesnt try to talk up their product a bit more) as they have been amazing when ive emailed them with issues with motors to battery issues, especially Tony.

              Anyway, since the police in my area dont really give a crap if I have a BBS02 or a BBSHD, i decided to spend a bit more and upgrade my electrified catrike 559 to a BBSHD from a BBS02 (just in case i do get a cop with a stick up his butt, i ordered a class 3 sticker that i actually stuck on the motor itself and as of now, its 750 W programmed by the folks at Luna.

              But it feels like it doesnt quite run as smooth as my BBS02 did, especially going from hills to flats. I ordered some spacers in case theres an issue where im losing torque because the chain is all outta line.

              I downloaded the Luna config tool. but all the non stock profiles try to set my amps at 10 (i dont know if that was done on purpose or if something is going horribly wrong on my end). I feel like i need something in between the stock programming and the limit less programming (preferrably 750 as im limited by the range of the Wolf V2 battery and the mighty mini i carry as a short distance backup, but if a higher wattage programming extends my range, im open to it since i was literally told by the police that as long as im not being a dick, they dont care (i asked about enforcement when i bought my bbs02, with the HD, i came off a bridge at 37 mph, granted there is a slight grade you dont notice in a car, so that probably helped), and blew by a cop who didnt really even pay attention to me (was probably more happy i wasnt holding up traffic honestly).

              I know it would void my luna warranty, but it just feel like my e assisted trike isnt operating at peak performance, despite the upgrades ive made.

              Can anyone give me pointers where to start on the smoother programming (i tend to use a mix of throttle and PAS on flat but try not to push with throttle on hills when i can)

              Comment


              • paxtana
                paxtana commented
                Editing a comment
                Hi, if by smooth you mean less jerky you could start by reducing the start current %

              Hello,
              I will build another e-bike, this time it will be a high-end MTB, but with a hard tail, 29 "wheels and classic Deore XT derailleur, 1/10 drivetrain with 11/46 cassette, at the front I will install a 42T disc. on hiking trails in the mountains I already got a BBSHD 48V / 52V engine from China with the new C571-30-506 controller and the DPC181 Bluetooth display (looks like PC18). Does anyone know if this new controller can be programmed like the old one? And what is this display - apparently it has only 5 pas. Maybe someone will write something more about such a set - or maybe I went on a mine - by ordering it?

              I greet everyone

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