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    Last edited by Circuitsmith; 08-04-2022, 05:09 AM.

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      Here is an article I have up on my blog that goes over my core settings, plus some older iterations. A second article with further refinements is linked right at the top of this link.

      https://talesontwowheels.com/2021/01...s_programming/

      Most of what I am riding these days is cargo-oriented. Someone asked about a cargo frontloader and my 2wd Bullitt has its own motor article in its build series.

      https://talesontwowheels.com/2021/08...e-bbshd-motor/

      BBSHD settings are about halfway down in their own section.

      For those of you who don't recognize the screen shots, they belong to a Luna Black Box and I am taking cell phone pics of them to get them exported.

      I'm currently building a more or less traditional MTB (Luna-sourced BBSHD #7) and will be doing things a little differently for that one when the time comes.

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        Candace-based Pedal Assist?

        Hi. First post, and thank you everyone for the great info. I have been fiddling with the programming and I think I am missing something about the pedal assist options. Im running new BBSHD 1000W 52V.

        Today when I use pedal assist I get great assist, but after I hit cruising speed the assist keeps going so Im getting zero exercise. I like the assist at the beginning but not as much while in cruise cadence.

        I would like to decay the pedal assist as my pedal cadence increases. I want more assist off the block, some assist at normal cadence, and then when cadence surpasses a revolution value the assist decreases rapidly.

        Is there a parameter that will allow this behavior?

        Thanks!



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        • AZguy
          AZguy commented
          Editing a comment
          Lower the keep current

          However I find that running the power constant (speed unlimited @ 100% in all levels) with a high keep current is a really good option for getting exercise since it never limits anything, just keeps the power flowing smoothly and if I pedal harder I go faster and vice versa so the inspiration is there since the feedback is immediate... if I want to go a lot slower or faster I'll change the power (PAS level)... having gone over to this type of profile I get excellent range too, much, much better than speed limited...

          FWIW I never liked the speed "limiting" options that try to emulate the cruise control, they have no resemblance to riding a non-electric and tend to make the rider "lazy" since there's no seat-of-the-pants payoff for putting in more effort, the bike just keeps going the same speed when you pedal harder (albeit using less battery).... it's like a moped that all you have to do is pedal to keep[ it moving instead of a throttle...


          Anyway I'd try both and see what works for you, every rider, every bike is different.

          YMMV

        Thanks AZguy. To confirm what I think you are saying:
        1. Change all of the SPEED levels on the basic screen to"100"
        2. Set KEEP CURRENT to "40"
        What would you recommend setting CURRENT DECAY to?

        Also, on the BASIC screen, would you recommend linear steps for CURRENT or logarithmic steps?

        -OMM

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          Originally posted by OldManMac View Post
          Thanks AZguy. To confirm what I think you are saying:
          1. Change all of the SPEED levels on the basic screen to"100"
          2. Set KEEP CURRENT to "40"
          What would you recommend setting CURRENT DECAY to?

          Also, on the BASIC screen, would you recommend linear steps for CURRENT or logarithmic steps?

          -OMM
          Not really

          Either set the keep current low and keep speed limits - I don't like this but it will taper the power as you reach the speed limit as you initially asked

          Or - set the speed limits all to 100% and keep the keep current high although keep current doesn't really matter all that much since you are very unlikely to approach the max RPM of the motor

          I'd leave everything else alone - try and adjust just one [or two at most] things (I consider all the PAS currents or the voltages as one thing) at a time so you can better gauge the difference of what the particular change does for you

          I way prefer not so much a logarithmic, but exponential steps (probably what you meant ;-} ), I never understood why a linear progression made any sense at all but you see them all the time from "factory" tunes

          This is mine (the yellow values) - each step gives about 1.41x the previous step and so every two steps roughly doubles the power:

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          Believe it or not I use level 1 more than you'd think even though it's very low power

          OTOH I almost never go above 7 and frankly spend most of the time in 2-5

          I made a little excel calculator that computes the progression base on the inputs in green and happy to share, just let me know and I'll post it (although it may be somewhere else in this thread)


          Regardless, this is what works for me and my build and as I mentioned every rider and every machine is different!

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            AZguy thank you again. This is helpful. Question: Why don't you like this? What are the trade-offs?

            "set the keep current low and keep speed limits - I don't like this but it will taper the power as you reach the speed limit as you initially asked"

            Comment


            • AZguy
              AZguy commented
              Editing a comment
              I don't like it since limiting speed:

              Will typically cause the power to go all over the place up and down as the controller tries to chase the same speed (I've logged this effect on a battery power manager) which is far less efficient although lower keep currents help a little, just not much in my experience

              "Incentivizes" just turning the crank with as little force as it takes to keep it going that speed instead of the seat-of-the-pants feel you get when you push harder - since I'm typically using 100-350W (measured) and my continuous effort I'm able to do is somewhere around 100+W with peaks likely around twice that, the power I'm capable of is similar to the power the motor is putting in so that's why I can really feel changes in my effort "incentivizing" working more since there is "reward". With the controller essentially doing the opposite (backing off power as you increase) it just doesn't translate (I have a another bike that's controller is like this and can't be changed, at least not easily like the BBSxx) and every time I ride it I turn the pedals enough to keep it adding power and not any more since it just keeps chasing the same speed no matter how hard I push.

              A normal bicycle never really stays at a constant speed, it's constantly changing based on slope, terrain, wind, effort, etc. so with speed limited it rides more like a moped than a bicycle


              Not limiting speed and running constant power is not only far more efficient in real world use - this I've also measured and I get >30% more range for the same moving average speeds - but it's also far more predictable... e.g. if I know I'm using 250W and I'm running a 500Wh battery I'm going to have about 2hours of run time... or even easier math, if I'm riding a pace that's giving me about ~3mi/Ah (works out close to 16-17Wh/mi - I actually usually do a lot better at around 15mph - but I like to "fudge" conservatively) and I've got 10Ah in the battery, I can go ~30mi...

            Where can I find step by step procedures for programming my controller on a BBS HD motor. Do I leave cable connected to battery.

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