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HOW TO: Throttle only without cutting PAS wire

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    #31
    More controller surgery, just not as much.

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      #32
      Originally posted by Fred View Post
      So what is the Domino throttle solution and is there a link to the specifics?
      It is located in this thread. Not totally clear to me. JP labs may be able clue us in on what we would need to do. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/vi...p?f=28&t=93977

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      • AZguy
        AZguy commented
        Editing a comment
        Ahhh the switch opens when the throttle is cracked - I was thinking the opposite. As you point out that make is it just a bit trickier since it will require two wires, not just one.

        It's definitely the gray wire - the wires are [in order] red (+5V), black (gnd), gray, white

        Instead of soldering to the gray wire, I bought the connectors, they are very inexpensive... about $0.30 for the pair...
        Last edited by AZguy; 3 weeks ago.

      • JPLabs
        JPLabs commented
        Editing a comment
        OK, I thought I better double check about the switch state. I read about Domino and others, and saw reference to switches normally open and normally closed. It looks like the Domino is normally open. Maybe it's the Magura which was normally closed. I don't remember WHICH throttle was normally closed. But I guess it's not the Domino. Sorry.

        Here's the Domino link I found specifying: https://evmc2.wordpress.com/2014/03/...ino-vs-magura/

      • AZguy
        AZguy commented
        Editing a comment
        Either way they'll work... normally open would be best and only take one wire instead of two for n.c.

      #33
      This has been discussed ad nauseam over there. The gray wire in the pedal cadence sensor gets wired to the throttle switch so that when the throttle is cracked it pulls it to ground preventing the signal from disabling the throttle. The various little circuits do the same thing as the switch in the throttle. With the domino throttle you are stuck using that throttle *and* running an external wire *and* figuring out how to get it in the controller. With the circuits any throttle will work. The domino throttle has a rumored (I have zero to substantiate this) reliability issues but whether that is true or not the other three cons are true.

      After digging into a couple of controllers I would say that if going with the circuit vs. the domino throttle, it definitely belongs inside the controller so as has been pointed out over there many times, the greatest challenge is getting at the throttle signal.

      Some folks with the circuits prefer to get it from external to the controller, run a wire down to the controller and drill a hole to get it in so they don't have to dig out potting. I sort of get this, my first dig into it was a mess and I dug way more potting then necessary (it was a bad controller anyway though) but after digging out another I think it's the better approach and keeps the entire solution in the controller. You only have to dig the very little bit out where the wires come in - I used a spudger and it took at most a couple of minutes. Once the grommet is clear you can push the wires into it and lift the grommet out and get access to the throttle wire there. By pushing some of the cable that goes to the throttle into the grommet an inch or so you can get some extra wire to work with which is one reason why I like this approach.

      My little circuit fit nicely into the areas dug out of the potting next to the grommet and then I just sealed everything back up with electronic safe RTV. Very clean solution and the whole process of getting the throttle signal took twenty minutes or so.

      The modified controller is now a seamless standalone solution that is sealed with no extra drilling or external wires. The circuit I built has a male and female pedal sense connector so that end was a silly simple plug-in.

      The picture I posted is pre-RTV.


      As always, YMMV

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        #34
        Just tried my old throttle settings with this No PAS program. The key is low current and low slow start settings. Could be just low current as well. Have my smooth linear throttle back.

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        • JPLabs
          JPLabs commented
          Editing a comment
          By 'Low Current', what do you mean, exactly, please?

          Do you mean you can't use 100% max power and still have smooth response? Or, just that it's smoother, the less total power you have in the settings. The latter, I think...confirming.

        • AZguy
          AZguy commented
          Editing a comment
          I use 100% no problem =]

          With current control and the start current at 1% it's silly smooth

          I only limit it in 1 and 2 (not 3!) because I have a medical condition in my wrist that tends to overuse the throttle =]

        #35
        Low start current is what i meant. Sorry for confusion.

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