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2020 Schwinn Axum 29'er

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    I ordered the SKS Blumels 75u fender set yesterday, they'll be here sometime next week. I also ordered the topeak versa mounts. Then I saw Blumels sells a clamp set for suspension forks. Same price as the Topeaks so maybe I'll order a pair of those as well.
    I also ordered an Ibera rear rack for the Axum so I can put the heavy steel rack back on the cruiser bike, plus the Ibera is better designed for panniers.
    hopefully the rack and fender go on in perfect harmony...
    And I ordered a top tube frame bag, it has a top compartment to hold my phone and a compartment on each side, one of the side compartments will hold all of the excess wire length for the brake sensors and display.
    This will clean up the handle bars a lot.
    Last edited by Dshue; 1 week ago.

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      I have actually been busy with work and when I have not been working its been 20+ MPH winds so just not ideal riding conditions so not much riding the last week or so.

      Looking forward to seeing how that pack works out. It does seem like good way to hide some cables.

      I don't remember noticing the SKS clamps or if I did there must have been something I didn't like about them which could have been I could not find any in stock anywhere. The Topeak ones are a little on the bulky side but are holding well and not the only bulky thing on the bike so I guess they are a good fit.

      I'm really not sure Ibrea vs Topeak for the packs and racks. Pug has Ibrea and Axum has Topeak and they both have their ups and downs. Topeak is much more widely distributed in the USA and has a lot more bag options. If your Ibrea is like mine and has adjustable lower arms you maybe can use that adjuster bolt as the fender mount since the Axum only has one set of rear holes.

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        I also picked up a set of dual action mechanical calipers.
        They were cheap but we'll see how they work. In theory all adjustments can be made with the barrel nuts.
        For $40 if they don't work out then not a huge loss.

        Comment


          Ya let us know how the brakes work out. Maybe give em their own post so more people can see em or tag onto the cheap vs decent thread. Maybe even wait till you get some miles on so you can see how the adjustment with wear thing goes. That was one of the things I really didn't like about the originals but so far has not been a problem with my BB7's but I don't think I quite have the same number of miles on em yet.


          I just went out and looked close and my Axum does have the hole for a dropper post. I never noticed but when I bought it and was doing a lot of work on it I barely knew what a dropper post was and didn't think I would have any interest in one so I guess I just never noticed. Also my triangle battery bag somewhat blocks the view of it plus being a black frame with a black grommet down that low it just doesn't stand out.

          Now I have to decide if I want one. Before now it was easy to not have to decide because the one I wanted was back ordered in an external. Now that I know I can do internal and those are in stock today its a tough call. I just put one on my fat bike and have only got one decent ride in so far so not sure yet if it was worth the money. I did the fat bike because that is what I ride on the MTB trails and I ride paved trails to the MTB park so for the pavement its nice to be up high but on the trials its nice to have the option to go lower. I was also thinking the whole getting on and off the bike thing may be cool too but being such a new thing on one ride I kept forgetting I had it to move up and down.

          I think for how I use the Axum the dropper there will be just to make it easier to get on and off and the air suspension in the case of the model I choose. The one ride I did the air is quite different than the spring or possibly elastomer post I had before.

          Comment


          • Dshue
            Dshue commented
            Editing a comment
            The only thing I would want the dropper for is to get off easier. And I can't justify the price for that. When I was riding mtb seriously a dropper would have been an amazing feature. The idea back then was to stop and drop your post for descents but it wasn't always practical,
            and at that time the "proper" mtb posture wasn'tfar of from a road bike, stretched out and hunched over with the seat higher than the bars. It was much harder to get behind the seat than it is now.

            I don't know when I'll put the new calipers on, I want to get more miles on what I have now. For me all this brake stuff isn't about stopping better, it's all about reducing maintenance. Especially on a ride. With the stock brake setup I couldn't adjust the inboard pad when out on a ride because the allen keys on my Alien tool were not long enough because the adjuster was too close to the hub flange. I haven't even looked yet but I suspect the 180mm adapter probably moved the caliper far enough to solve that. Next was the diameter upgrade. And this new caliper upgrade should like I said allow all adjustments to be made at the barrel adjusters.
            What ISN'T know is the actual quality of these calipers. But even for the price they should be at least the same quality as what the Axum came with. The only difference I see between the stock Axum and BB7 calipers is the inboard pad adjustment. The actual mechanism is the same engineering, possibly the BB7 has better materials and workmanship but nothing that I've seen in the Axum calipers looks bad at all. The mechanism operates smoothly, doesn't seem to have any excessive play, no flex that I have noticed.
            The biggest question about these new calipers will be clearance. And if they work but are crap quality wise then who makes good ones, I've seen them for road bikes but not mountain bikes. I believe Avid or Tektro has them for road. BUT most manufacturers are going hydraulic so I don't see much hope for engineering breakthroughs in the big names for mechanical discs.
            Last edited by Dshue; 1 week ago.

          The fenders came today. They weren't supposed to be here til late next week. I got them from a shop called Kyle's Bikes, from Ankeny Iowa.

          At first glance they look really good. The fenders themselves are nice feeling and everything looks well made and well engineered.
          There are a couple funny quirks though, #1 is the struts are 4.6mm steel and kind of heavy. #2 is the fact that they give you disc brake spacers just in case you need them(only required with seatstay mounted calipers), yet they don't give you suspension fork mounts because some forks have braze-ons and you may not need them....
          Not that it matters because I already knew what to expect for fork mounting.
          On the other hand those 4.6mm steel struts are heavy as frig.
          I expected them to be aluminum. But again it's going on an e bike and I'm not super concerned about weight, the convenience of the fenders will be worth their tiny weight penalty. I don't doubt that they'll handle whatever I will throw at them.


          Hopefully I can get these mounted soon. Though I will say I kinda ripped them unfairly for the steel struts, the steel actually works out in my favor, I am planning to silver solder a tab on the rear most strut to mount to the adjustment bolt of the rack. The clamp will be similar to the picture attached.
          Then the plan is to not use the forward rear strut but attach the fender to the underside of the rack, probably making use of the L tab they include and since the clip that mounts the strut to the fender is removable I may pop it out and use that hole to help mount it to the rack.
          But first I need to see the rack to be sure that's feasible. The height adjustment point is what I see as the biggest weakness in it and I don't want to compromise it any more than it is already. The manufacturer claims it will hold up to 55 lbs. On a normal basis I carry half of that amount so I hope it can do at least that. I don't do jumps etc but I also don't avoid rough ground. But I think it will do the job.
          Then I'll have to see if I need to add something to the front of the rear fender. I have some thin .032" aluminum sheet that I am sure I could use to form a lower guard to fill in between the fender and BB.
          I'm just really looking forward to having less mess to clean off after every ride.

          As I write this I'm watching KevCentral unbox a womans Schwinn Al Comp on his patreon. 16" seat tube with a lowered top tube, powder blue metallic looking paint. Same parts as the mens, and the microshift stuff is still there. Has me wondering if my wife needs a new bike and if it would fit her. The only downside is the microshift components, they may work fine but they don't equal Shimanos parts of the same level. And replacement is always questionable, you have to determine if your particular model is sram compatible or shimano compatible or their own proprietary spacing. I see people using the microshift Advent and Box stuff and I always wonder if they keep a spare transmission at home in case of a crash or failure.

          Comment


            On the brake front I agree that there isn't likely to be any new development from any of the big brands on medium to high end cable brakes. I'm sure there will be little brands like Paul Klamper doing high end cable brakes but I would guess most cable brakes will be on big box sorts of bikes and lower priced E bikes just because they are trying to save money somewhere.

            I bought stuff from that Kyle's place. They had a good selection and had things in stock everyone else was out of in summer of 20. 2 reasons I decided to order a bunch from them was they say everywhere how fast they ship and should have been a one day shipping zone for me. I ordered on a Sunday and assumed it would not go out on Monday just because I'm sure they get a ton of orders on the weekend but it didn't ship till I think Thursday or Friday. I got some stuff from LA and Oregon in 4 days I wasn't expecting to see in the same week.

            Tomorrow is supposed to be in the 60's and less than a 10 mph wind for a change so I will likely get out on the Axum. If I have time I may even put the Big Apple slicks on. I did order a suspension dropper post for the Axum from my local shop. Its back ordered but buying from them I get a discount so I can wait to save $40, that will pay for the lever.

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              Yeah it would be nice if the weather would relax a bit, we got a nice cold snowy April fools joke on the 1st, after a week of fairly nice spring like weather.
              Finding these local wasn't happening. And at the price I got from a shop to order them in I decided to cut out the middle man, they aren't a shop that I really care to deal with anyway because of attitudes and they aren't necessarily a convenient distance away either.
              Is your suspension dropper a PNW?
              Adding even a little suspension makes the price more palatable for me. But I suspect the time is coming when I'll get one just for dismounting.

              The Ibera PakRak came yesterday evening. The lower legs are steel so I feel slightly better about the strength there. But the taillight mount may interfere with the fender, it's tucked up under the rack which is probably a good idea to make a light more visible from the back in bright light. Overall it's a nice rack. The Topeak Versa mounts came as well. I was hoping to get some work done on it on it tomorrow but life had other plans and now everything tomorrow has a strict schedule. Oh well.

              Comment


                Yes the post I got on the Pug and now on order for the Axum is the PNW Coast which is air suspension and dropper. I think the externals are $199 and the internals $179 so quite the value when you combine dropper and suspension. A cheap spring post is $50 and something like a Thudbuster is $200. Don't forget you need a lever too, I went with the Crank Brothers Highline because it attaches to its clamp with a ball so you can do L or R or above or below mounting which is nice to have the options with cluttered E bike bars. Also you would want to pick up a shock pump for the suspension. I got a Fox one at my local shop for $45 I think that seems to do the job just fine.

                Big Apple tires went on today along with Squirt Ebike formula chain wax lube. I had been running their low temp formula till today. It all goes on kinda milky white but I noticed the E stuff (and I assume standard formula) turns clear in maybe 10 mins where even indoors the winter stuff took darn near an hour to go clear. Unless I start seeing unusually early chain wear I think I will stick with the Squirt wax. Its not perfectly clean but way less messy and stainy than traditional lube. I didn't especially seek out the E lube. When I ordered the low temp stuff if I got another bottle I could get free shipping and the regular was out of stock so I paid like $1 more for the E formula which was in stock.

                Did 35 miles and the first ride of the season with the summer shoes and short sleeves. Was a fun ride. Had to stop a couple miles in and tighten my adjustable stem because it was creeking so bad and backed off the front brake a click on each side to try and stop the squeaking when not applied problem. Worked for a while but then came back. I can see rust on the backing plates so I should just take em apart and clean them up good for starters.

                Now that I have done a couple rides where its been 100% dry the brake action is great. I wasn't sure before but now both front and rear are nice and grabby. After I fixed the stem creek I noticed an intermittent creek from the drive area. Gonna have to check that everything down there is still tight. Seems like something is starting to work loose. Big Apple slicks were great for todays 97% pavement ride. Ran them up at 27 psi which is about double what I had run all winter on other tires. Love the smooth quite roll of those tires and even with that high a pressure the ride was still decent. Even broke 30 mph coasting on a downhill but a car ahead of me didn't seem to know where he was going so I had to slow it down, felt like there may be a few more miles if I had been able to let it go.

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                  Do you happen to know what the useable length is on the Coast? From the minimum insertion line to the seat rail when extended?
                  And the length of the stanchion when extended? PNW doesn't seem to think those measurements are pertinent as they don't list them anywhere. They give those dimensions for other models but not the Coast.
                  For the Coast they only have a calculator where you enter collar to seat rail and full insertion. When I put in my clamp to rail height and an arbitrary full insertion depth it says they "think" I'd be set with the 30.9/120.

                  Comment


                  • 73Eldo
                    73Eldo commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I do not know those details. The on the Pug is the 27.2 external that among other things has less travel. Sounded like it could be a month before I see the one for the Axum.

                  I installed the front fender this afternoon. Had to shorten the strut 1 3/4" on both sides. The rear is just as I thought. It will only get the rear most strut and then it will attach to the underside of the rack for its middle mounting location and I'll have to come up with something for the front.
                  the rack took a little bending and a little grinding to get the lower legs to sit perfectly flat on the dropoutdropouts.
                  I got a coat of paint on the lower legs of the rack, on the chromed front rack struts and on my front rack mount. The same part I had with the old rack but now it's moved up so that it sits right under the seat clamp.

                  Then I installed the new frame bag and started cleaning up the wiring. All excess wire length is in one side pouch. The bars look so much better now.
                  Tomorrow afternoon/evening I will clearcoat the rack and other items that I painted and hopefully I get the rear fender mounting finalized.
                  Once the rack install and fender install are complete I'll get some pictures posted.

                  73Eldo, The fenders look as good in person as they did in photos on your Axum. I was afraid they would look big and garish in person but they really do match the bikes style. I'm really looking forward to having less mess to clean up after a ride.

                  Comment


                    I think part of what helps the fenders look good is the rest of the bike has so much black on it. I have noticed black fenders stand out a lot more on non black bikes. You would think black fenders on black tires would just work and blend in but I don't think they do. I have been looking at fenders for another project and still have not seen anything else that fits a decent width tire. Almost all fenders seem to top out at 40mm tires.

                    Only reason I plan to remove them off the Axum is if I get the car rack I kinda want, the rear one will interfere with that otherwise I think I will leave them on. On the fat Pug I think I will take them off for the summer. The rack catches the big chunks of mud and the fat bike tends to be in the parks so not as far out if it would suddenly rain. The Axum goes out for 3-4 hours at at time and the weather can change a lot in that time period so its nice to have them even just hitting some puddles if its not raining.

                    Comment


                    • Dshue
                      Dshue commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Axiom has a 70mm wide fender for 29" tires.
                      https://www.axiomgear.com/products/f...heguard-29-70/

                    • 73Eldo
                      73Eldo commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Good to know those Axiom's exist but I still like the SKS. Much cleaner look where the struts are inside the fender. That outside strut clamp in chrome really kinda screams universal fit.

                    Well I only managed to get the rack and associated fasteners clear coated today and got it mounted. I didn't want to mess with the rear fender until the clear coat cures. But I did get a better idea of mounting. I just need to get a couple clamps to silver solder onto the rear strut, I'll drill through the fender and mount the L bracket to the racks rear light mount, then I'll use a topeak versa mount on the seat tube, then the fender will use the bolt in the versa mount. I think the versa mount is just about the right thickness to work.

                    Comment


                      Which Ibrea rack did you get? I thought they all had the adjustable heights and was thinking you could use the height bolts as attachment points for the fenders?

                      Comment


                      • Dshue
                        Dshue commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Mine has the adjustable legs. And that is where the fender strut will mount but I want that bolt to be as tight as possible and the plastic strut mount won't allow that. It may be overkill but I want the rack to be as strong as it was designed to be. Another option if I absolutely had to use the plastic strut mount would be a stud. That way the rack can be tightened securely and the plastic strut mount can be tightened a little less.

                        I hope I don't sound like the plastic strut mount is junk. It isn't, and if I didn't have to always have my battery on the rack I might not worry about it, or if the Axum had rack AND fender mount holes, then I wouldn't worry about it at all. The SKS fender kit is really nice as is with my only nit pick being that they include a large amount of hardware that you might not need, then don't include front mounts for suspension forks because you might not need them... Heck I used bolts from the fender kit to remount the rack on my old cruiser bike since it's either stainless or at least has better coatings than the fasteners that came on that bike, so there is plenty of extra hardware. And all the extra work isn't because the kit requires it, you know that it doesn't. It's just that sometimes I can't leave well enough alone.
                        Last edited by Dshue; 3 days ago.

                      I only made a little progress on the rear fender this weekend. And I didn't get any pictures of the actual install yet but I did get the rear strut tabs made. The front won't work out as I'd hoped so it'll probably get zip tied.

                      The weekend was taken up with brakes and front struts on the wifes Rav4. Then the remainder was spent on the 2 acoustic bikes. Both got washed, lubed and new brake cables. The cruiser bike had the cheap crappy cables that were fraying everywhere and a few strands were broken inside the housings plus it got new touring bars and needed the cables shortened.
                      the Specialized got a new stem and 780mm wide riser bars so it needed longer cables and the old ones were at least 15 years old, the new stem and bar combo is 3 ¼" higher and 7 ¾" wider than original.
                      Now I need to do the shift cable on both. The Specialized already has a new inner cable so it just needs new housings.

                      I don't know how much I'll get done this week. Jury duty. But I do hope to get the Axum finished and ready to ride.
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