No announcement yet.

2020 Schwinn Axum 29'er

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    The frame bag now contains all of the excess wiring in the left side pouch, that leaves me the use of the right side pouch and the cell phone holder. In person the whole bike looks cleaner without the excess wire wrapped around brake cables and ziptied down in the triangle.

    And with the way I mounted the fender to the rack they come off as one unit. 3 bolts and one zip tie.
    Last edited by Dshue; 4 weeks ago.


      On a side note I never looked very close at the gold KMC chain that came on the Axum, but it's actually an X-8. So it may go back on the Axum. I had assumed it was a Z-7...


        Which gold matches those gold jockey wheels the best?

        All I remember about the original chain was that I could not get the quick link apart because at the time I didn't have a metal link tool so I cut the link. Have you found any gold quick links?

        Anyone considering one of these bikes keep an eye on walmart. At the moment (mid April 2021) there still seems to be some of the $398 2020's (like ours) in the system so you may get lucky and have one in stock near you or can get one shipped to you if you order online. The 2021's appear to be priced at $499 and $599 for the DP model so $100 price increase. Changes for the 21 appear to be paint and a medium frame option otherwise looks like no major changes.


          I can't find any gold KMC 8 speed chains. I never paid any attention to 7 and 8 speed colored chain before I got the Axum, but I know they had gold for 9-12 speed as well as many solid colors. I was wanting red for my Specialized. But when I was looking into that it was pre pandemic and it seems like those are scarce now.
          And those jockey wheels I don't have a lot of hope for because they cost like $10, BUT they are light and have real caged ball bearings in them. So I figure I'd give them a try. If they don't work out I still have the originals. They spin smooth and free.
          Honestly though I just needed some gold on that side to help balance it out. If Lekkie still had gold anodizing as an option for BBS02 Bling Rings I'd probably get one. But alas unless I find a new old stock I won't get the Bling...


            Now that the fender install is done and over with my thoughts are the kit is really good. It only has one shortcoming and that is, they don't include mounts for suspension forks. But the rest of the hardware kit is over the top.
            Other than fork mounts I didn't have to source any hardware to complete the job, and I did a very unorthodox install on the rear fender. Plus I have quite a bit of hardware left over and it's quality stuff. I'll be dipping into that bag for years to come.

            Long term durability isn't something I can attest to but I think they'll hold up good.
            My rear fender does have a front corner chipped, I don't know if it came that way or if it happened after I got it. It was shipped on its cardboard hanger package in just a plastic bag during a pretty frigid week so...
            But I used some modeling glue and it seems to be holding and its not a big deal if it doesn't. But I don't plan to ride in frigid weather often so I doubt that it will be aa concern going forward.
            It really is a shame they don't include a couple different sizes of suspension fork mounts.
            I'm definitely glad I went with these over the Topeak fenders.

            I may order a pair of the plastic front strut mounts because I can envision breaking them, though they have some sort of breakaway mechanism built into them that the instructions don't mention. And now that I went back and looked the instructions show that it comes with 4 but I only got 2.
            Click image for larger version

Name:	20210415_171344.jpg
Views:	72
Size:	527.8 KB
ID:	126335


            • 73Eldo
              73Eldo commented
              Editing a comment
              I don't remember having anything left over but maybe some washers so I don't think I got more than 2 either.

            After a long weekend of riding I think the brake rotor diameter and lever upgrade is a success.

            I adjusted both calipers early Saturday morning and rode 46 miles, recharged the battery and did a 38 mile ride Sunday. Neither brake is in dire need of adjustment. The total mileage should have been a hundred but the seat was only comfortable to 80. The last 4 miles were all I could bear.

            And the 203mm front rotor doesn't warp under heavy braking(at least not to a significant extent)but the 180mm on the rear(stock front) still warps under heavy braking. So I'll have to do something with that, but probably not until I install the dual action calipers. I want to get through the current set of pads on the stock calipers before the caliper test. I'm not only happy with the extended period between adjustment, which is more than doubled with the rotor upgrade, but overall brake feel is better both in modulation and power. If I hadn't already bought the dual action Zoom calipers I wouldn't even try them, no farther improvement is needed. But I have them so I'll try them. The original intent was that the stock caliper would go on the Specialized with a new air fork and new disc hub wheel, but availability of the SR Suntour fork I wanted dried up then the same happened with the wheel...

            No mechanical problems at all on the 84 mile weekend. The fenders did need some tuning but I expected that. And they did their job limiting the mess. The front tire still shoots crud on the bottom of the downtube and the rear tire still shoots mud on the back of the bb. I'll probably do something with it, but not anytime soon.
            I am happy with the range of this battery. Someday I'll test the limits of that range. This 84 mile weekend was pretty carefree, the only battery conservation I did was once I hit 44v(32% soc) on Saturday. Sunday I only got down to 45v when I ended the ride.

            But the big difference was on Sunday traversing a local rail trail, I wasn't the only e bike. 2 trek comfort e bikes, a Rad Wagon, and a 20" fat tire folder. The older couple on the Treks did two laps of the 15 mile trail.


              I also made note of the vast number of electric outlets on light poles and picnic shelters in parks.
              My charger charges just under 2v per hour, and I use just about the same or less per hour of riding. A 2.25 hour lunch break at a convenient outlet could give me an additional 20-25 miles of range. That could mean a 70-75 mile day.
              I have hopes of traveling longer distances. Like the Great Allegheny Passage and C&O Towpath from Pittsburgh PA to Washington DC. 335 miles. ‚Äč

              The route offers plenty of camping options but the availability of electric for charging at those locations is questionable. Plenty of Bed and Breakfasts to stay at, though they aren't my style. I do have a friend near the Harpers Ferry area that would host me so that would be a good place for a layover going both directions. The real challenge is time. Once you get to the area there are a crap load of one day sight seeing locations. Harpers Ferry, Antietam National Battlefield to name a couple.

              My thoughts are 2- 20ah batteries. A couple of short charges per day, and a couple or three one day layovers. I would probably use 100% charges to do it, for 2 batteries that's 40% over the 80% charge. With that and a mini charge for lunch I think I could reach the high point at 125 miles in one day. From there milage should increase, the next 25 miles looses 1700 feet of elevation so those miles would use hardly any battery. From there there are some up hill sections but it works it's way down to sea level in DC.
              Most of the battery consumption is on the 125 mile southern ride from Pittsburgh to the continental divide stretch and again on the northern ride, the 35 mile stretch from south of Cumberland MD to the top of the continental divide where you gain around 2000 feet of elevation.


                What are the symptoms you are noticing when you say you are having rotor warping issues? And what if anything do you do about it after it happens? Now that the roads and trails have been dry I have been very happy with how the brakes are working, nice hard initial grip and more to back it up if you really need to stop.

                A week or two ago my front which is still the stock rotor started chirping a bit when I was not on the brakes. Initially I could tap the brake quickly and it would go away for a few mins but then it came back. Eventually I was able to see that it was run out in the rotor that was just touching the pad enough to get some sort of harmonic vibration going. Looser didn't help but I eventually tried tighter and that seemed to help. It doesn't seem like there is enough drag to actually drag or make the rotor warm but its apparently enough to keep it from ringing.

                On my last ride I noticed my freewheel seems to be getting a lot louder. May be time to take that apart for a good clean and lube. When I was lubing my chain after the last ride I think there may be a new noise inside the motor so it may be time to get in there too. I bought it used with possibly a lot of mines on it. I looked at the gear side and it looked OK but I was not able to get the motor off easily and I didn't have any new gaskets so I didn't want to try too hard. It may be time now to see if I can beat it apart for a inspection, clean, and lube. I'm sure it was exposed to road salt by the previous owner(s) and I know I got it in some so it could be really stuck. Luckily its a 73 like my spare bike has so if it does have issues I can just swap in the spare till I am able to get it fixed.

                Does the preload on your fork seem to do anything? I was playing with mine the other day to see if I could actually get the fork to do something with my fat ass on the bike and it didn't seem to do much. Its very hard to turn and only seems to maybe have 2 turns in it? Some sort of detent every half turn? I can see in the oil/grease that is leaking out what the max travel is and when I am in a normal riding position its only up maybe 1/2 inch from there. I kinda wonder if its doing me more harm than good. When I first got the bike there were several Krampus forks floating around pretty cheap but I don't see those anymore so not sure what to do there.


                • Dshue
                  Dshue commented
                  Editing a comment
                  When that rotor warps it makes the spokes ting, I'm sure it's just harmonics transferring through the hub. But i just let off for a second and it goes away. The rotor spins true afterwards. One of these days I'll mount a camera to show it. When it was on the front I could watch it happen. My worry is that it'll shatter at some point. It does it far less on the rear than it did on the front. And it's mostly on very short and steep hills where initial speed is fast, or very long and steep hills. I really think just tossing it in an oven on the clean cycle would solve it. I don't think it has the same temper the whole way around.

                  On the fork are you saying you're only 1/2" from fully collapsed, or fully extended?
                  The preload isn't much. There are detents. And in most cases if you try to add too much preload the two parts of the threaded "jack" screw unthread from each other completely. It's not a complicated setup. Most spring forks use the same system if they have preload. My 20 year old Manitou Magnum R uses a near identical apparatus. If you are curious about how it works just get an appropriate size socket and take it our for a peek.
                  Tony's Hobbies did a teardown video.

                  My fork sags a bit when I get on but nowhere near bottoming out and I do like curb hopping.
                  But keep in mind we are both heavier than the optimal rider weight for this type of fork. Add in the extra bike weight and it adds up to a fork that isn't near optimal. I thought about upgrading to an air fork but just like with the Specialized there are none to be had in the model I want. If I were back to 180# like I was in my 20's then I would consider the cheap air forks but I don't trust cheap aluminum fork steerer with 325#+ gross weight. At least the cheap SR Suntour air forks have a steel steerer.
                  Plus the upside of the SR Suntour is replacement lower leg bushings. That is the part that I can foresee wearing out in the stock fork.
                  Last edited by Dshue; 1 week ago.

                • 73Eldo
                  73Eldo commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I only got a 1/2 inch before its fully compressed. My weight takes it down to about an inch then after a few pedal strokes it seems to more or less settle at that 1/2 mark unless I really hit something hard. I don't notice it moving at all when normally riding. My antique has a Manitou with the elastomers and that seems to have a little float in it with the pedal strokes. That is kinda what got me wondering about the Axum fork and the fact that there is enough oil and goo on it now to clearly see the line where it maxes out.

                • Dshue
                  Dshue commented
                  Editing a comment
                  It has to be battery placement being the difference. But I wouldn't have thought your battery is heavy enough to have that much effect, what does your pack weigh? It can't be more than 8 or 9#. If you can get ahold of a suntour fork wrench or have a friendly bike shop it would be worth pulling the spring and checking for damage. The only other thing is if there is an issue on the lockout side spring.
                  If the springs are ok and not broken then you could always 3d print a spacer to add preload.

                  My battery has very little impact on the front end being mounted on the rack.

                Its now been 45 days since I ordered the suspension dropper post for the Axum from a local bike shop. I didn't want to be an annoying customer and keep asking and they said 30-45 days. When I checked yesterday I got a lot of head scratching and basically concluded it never got ordered. They tried to place the order yesterday and the internal routing one wasn't showing available to shops but was showing on their direct site. External was showing so I decided to go with that but kept having second thoughts and was kinda angry and confused that I had waited all this time and still had nothing.

                Contacted the manufacturer direct from their site and they got back to me within a few hours and did confirm that they have 2 different stock piles, one for them in their direct online store and one for dealer / resellers. They were able to confirm that it was indeed not in stock when I first attempted to order it and that at times they even disable the back / pre order option for both direct and dealer sales. They also didn't see a recent order from my shop but said things look a little screwy and they may have some central buyer thing going on that is just another chance for things to get confused and fall through the cracks. I canceled the order and got a refund from the local shop and placed a direct order for the internal that I really wanted in the first place. Got the shipping confirmation about 2 hours later so already a huge improvement over dealing with the local shop. No tracking yet but may be early next week.

                I have been getting more used to it on the fat trail bike. Its been great for the trails especially drops where you really need it out of the way. Its also great at stop lights to just drop it and be a lot closer to being flat footed while still on the seat. Riding the Axum later the same day after time on the trial bike I almost fall over at stop lights after bashing my shifter lever trying to get my non dropper to drop. I also think I like the air ride over a spring, makes me wonder about getting a air fork too. I already have a pump for the seat post so that saves me $50.


                • Dshue
                  Dshue commented
                  Editing a comment
                  While I'm not always a fan of local bike shops, your issue there seems like an IT issue at PNW, or at the least their changing system probably gets confusing. Especially for small shops that are pandemic busy.
                  I stopped in my local shop the other day for a spare inner tube and their wasn't a new bike in stock. Parts were scarce as well, and not from lack of supply but from sales. He's done more in sales since the pandemic than he did in the 5 years before. It has to be a little bitter sweet because he just moved and downsized his shop in spring 2019.