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i think i'm gonna be cyc
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I am not sure. as far as external motor with primary chain, i think yes. what I looked at about cyclone is it only ran based on 3 RPM levels? I may be totally wrong on that (and probably am, i am terrible at research), but my kit came with a 750c display that functions almost identical to the one i have on my BBS02 . I like the 9 assist levels.
However I am having some problems right out the box. Display stopped giving MPH, watts, odometer readings after about 10 min although MPH is accurate in the app. power assist levels change in the display but remains at 9 in the app while showing live data of all sorts...battery power, motor power, motor rpm, pedal rpm, torque, controller temp, motor temp, human watt power and maybe a few other things. Thats nice to know but i like the basics on the display. don't want to use phone as a dash as it will surely be destroyed in the woods.
Its okay to post stuff other than Bafang on here isn't it?
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Originally posted by Rodney Bush View PostIts okay to post stuff other than Bafang on here isn't it?
I was puzzled that Luna Cycle seemed mostly positive on it (IMO), then ... nothing. Maybe its projected performance was too close to their Ludi V2 BBSHD controller project.
I also gather the Cyclone(s) are history, via Luna.Last edited by ncmired; 03-15-2022, 06:38 AM.
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My favorite answer I used to get from management, "uh, well, yes and no!". They say the app is required at start-up to set wheel size for the app, voltage for the app but without the app these parameters are accessible from the display so I cannot be 100% sure. But now just turn it on and go, no app needed.
so sho-nuff, there is a parameter in the app where the display can be disabled. and of course I disabled it, the app took a crap and i could not change it back, although I was still reading live data and able to change other parameters. I was informed by tech support that some androids were having issues. Got the "bac door app" as recommended by them and they provided credentials and a XML file. Once uploaded it appears the display functionality has returned. Still having mag brake sensor issues. getting ready to look up some lit on it.
sub note - might not need throttle with torque sensor...wow
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Thanks, I think I am really going to enjoy this. Its pretty stealth except for the volume level and compared to my first build on a Fuel 95, this is a caddie! Hope my back can handle the hardtail. And I always thought dropper seat posts were silly, especially for the cost, but it makes it so easy to get on and off with my back problems. Maybe a thudbuster can go on a dropper?
I am pretty sure I changed it. Once I found it would not run out of the box, I began changing parameters and received a "successfully saved to flash" when they were uploaded. after about three changes the message changed to "this app have exception". all taken care of now, looks like it would run out of the box, all self inflicted, if I could read content instead of words, it clearly states that when the magnets are close to the sensor, the brakes will be released. I was thinking opposite and no mag near sensor would allow motor to run. Now I have all assist levels, throttle, display, brake cutout of motor.
The gears sensor is a question I have in to them but seems they conveniently answered all my questions except that one. the brake sensors are using a 3 pin Juliet connector as does the gear sensor. The brake signal back to the controller is 0 to5 vdc. So if the pin designation is the same, I do not see why one of the brake sensors cannot be removed and a gear sensor in its place. I think I am beginning to see these kits are sold as a "unit" and have a few "canned programs" they do not like too many variables in the mix. In the App the voltage thresholds can be changed or maybe even reversed.
being from the building automation trade.
I have a few mechanical concerns but don't know if it would be considered "bashing" if expose them here. I make friends real easy seems like. (NOT!)
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Some vendors sell a brake sensor splitter cable to add a shift sensor there.
When the snow goes away you might want a bigger front brake rotor. Maybe not an issue of you only ride dirt.
The Thudbuster ST (short travel) takes up less space in the seat post than the traditional LT version. Might leave room for a dropper function.
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looks like this bike is pretty much dirt only. pedals out at 20 mph with 32t in front and (i don't know) like 11 or 14T on rear. And for you throttle monsters it went 30 mph at 1500watts on flat pavement. Just did 14 miles or so on a local trail and recorded it on an app called relive. don't know how to get it here. had some error codes but did not get stranded. definitely had to work for my power but not so much that I had to lay out puking, borderline with the "shaky leg", but I made it no prob. would help if i were properly nourished and not old.
water in the north branch was deepest i've seen in a while, I'd say at least up to my rotors. I love this time of the year when the rivers are running fast and clean...AHHHH silence.
to ncmired, i watched Luna's "uncrating" video from 2019 and I must agree that if that is all I had to go on I would not have made this purchase. That was pretty pathetic. Even now the reviews leading to this point are still not that favorable. However I must say CYC has upped their game (IMO) at least with the packaging. They sent photos of the shipment prior to, and everything was in its nice little die cut compartments and loose components bagged nicely. wondering if i could write a review on it not being a seasoned guru, and having poor etiquette. I do see some issues that maybe should be brought to light or at least mentioned. Thought I was being nit picky until I saw Luna's vid.
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I had purchased a BBS02 kit with 48v motor and a 52 volt wolf-pac and additionally purchased this battery shortly after. 52v, 17.5AH, panasonic GA cells. Per Luna, I have a 48v motor with a 52v battery that can be charged to 58v and discharged to 41v before the bike will no longer power up. I have yet to completely discharge on a ride. The above mentioned ride took it from 58v to53.8v. have foam padding between the battery and the down tube. I also poked a little hole in the bag, used washers and secured it to a rivnut for the bottle holder to prevent the bag from sliding down. A little concerned about the controller getting to hot w/ no air circulation but did not have the problem on my 1st ride. Hall sensor warnings out the ass! Hope it wasn't from the river crossings. there may not be an O-ring on the endcap.
So here is where I am confused a little with my new motor. it is rated at 36 - 72 volts and was told to set the display to 52v when setting battery voltage in the controller, does it actually limit the voltage to the motor at 52 or as the battery drains the motor is actually running at a lower voltage from the battery? or is that number just for display purposes?
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When I was looking at the specs. on the CYC (just looking, not seriously shopping) I found the gearing of it to be too low to suit my purposes unless I went with an IGH to get an overdrive function.
Now I ride street, and prefer 26" bikes. So that may be part of it. But do the math before you get one of these. It did seem to be geared low to me compared to the BBSHD, and not as many options available. This is working form the cadence, not the motor RPM.
But offroad on a 29er, with the motor up high looks like a very good application for it. Nice bike and nice place to ride it.Last edited by Retrorockit; 03-17-2022, 09:27 AM.
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I had only discharged my battery to 41v on one occasion definitely not on a regular basis. figured it would be silly to go out on an adventure ride and not know your systems capability. typically My rides take the charge down to 48ish to 52ish where I usually let it set, although I do usually charge to 100% the night before my next ride.
And unfortunately, not everyone is an engineer and can relate to a turn down ratio by looking at the numbers Some of us just have to experience it.
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just a quick update....having good luck and enjoying my cyc x1 stealth (gen1). With about 1200 mi on it i have total confidence that i will not be stranded on the trail due to a product failure.
latest example....i was riding Patapsco McKelden area and decided to cross the river to extend the loop and ride time. there was more water than usual, i guess from the previous rain fall. the usual sandbar at the opposite embankment was almost underwater and a fresh channel had separated it from the far bank. the initial crossing was uneventful although the new channel was questionably fast and deep. How deep? on my way back i mis calculated current and depth and figured i was in trouble by the time my front axel went below the waterline. as i dismounted, i dropped to my knees and at that point was almost waist deep (while on my knees). the entire bike was submerged as the channel dumped into a shallow pool. the display and left handlebar where the throttle and interface for display is located were the only parts not underwater. i looked down and saw my luna battery bag was completely submerged for like 10 seconds or more until i could drag it up and out.
Display still on, still need to cross the river. went across and was not shy with assist level climbing out the other side. i said F it, If its gonna break, its gonna break, so i kicked it in the ass and busted out another hard 5 miles on the way out...nooo problems.
once home i removed the battery and let things air out for a few days. today went for a test ride and all seems normal. we shall see about the affects of condensation in closed environments if water has infiltrated. until then i'll be kickin my
cyc & krampy in the ass till it says
"NO! F YOU!"
sorry, quess that wasn't quick
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