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2018 Crust Scapegoat, BBS02 or BBSHD, Rohloff IGH

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    #16
    Originally posted by yeahbike View Post
    I'm curious about the big honkin rotors.

    ...

    Do you see a lot of improvement moving up in rotor size? Did the smaller one's feel unsafe?
    I don't think I've ever just bumped up the rotor without messing with other factors as well, such as carefully tweaking the pad to rotor alignment (radius and clearance) and trying out other pad compounds, so I can't say "going from 160mm to 200+mm is da shite".

    Here's some thoughts for my situation and builds - YMMV, and all that. I am by no means a pro at this stuff, and I come from the era of "hoping for the best" centerpull calipers on chromed rims:
    1. I'm not wild about components I don't think I could either fix or cobble on the side of the road, so hydraulic brake systems are currently unattractive to me - although I could probably live with the TRP HY/RD caliper (just on the front). I think spending extra time on the caliper fitment is well worth it, resulting in a simple, repairable system that work well and good enough for my purposes.
    2. My riding environment is mostly level paved roads in traffic but mixed in are some short, steep hills, and I often exceed 400 pounds of rolling weight (bike, rider, cargo ... rider). I strive for the sense that just the front brake will be able stop me going down those steep hills - in case my other hand is out hand-signaling. Also, going relatively fast (twenty to mid thirty MPH) seems to work better in traffic WRT establishing lane positions, with the caveat of longer stopping distances.
    3. 200+mm rotors probably shed heat better, and I assume the caliper leverage is improved as well.
    4. Cable operated means I can retain the standard Bafang brake cutoffs and avoid the hoakyness of the hydraulic lever glued-on sensors. I often have others ride my builds and I think having the cutoffs adds to the safety factor for my (elderly, haven't been on a bicycle in ages, non ex-motorcycle) rider guests. There have been severe injuries by/from Bafang-equipped bikes unexpectedly lurching forward (inadvertent motor engagement).
    5. On the Alfine bikes, usually I just stick with the 160mm off the shelf centerlock rear rotors. My riding style is mostly front-brake biased anyway.. The Rohloff bike required the 200+mm rear, for wheel swap ease. On the Neutrino with its 20" wheels, I used a 160mm Origin8 adapted centerlock back and a 180mm front.
    6. I've stuck with using the TRP Spyre calipers, mostly to simplify the fleet and spares.
    So, I guess going from 160mm to 200+mm can't hurt but actually it can, given haphazard fitment.
    Last edited by ncmired; 11-10-2021, 02:39 PM.

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      #17
      Originally posted by ncmired View Post
      I don't think I've ever just bumped up the rotor without messing with other factors as well, such as carefully tweaking the pad to rotor alignment (radius and clearance) and trying out other pad compounds, so I can't say "going from 160mm to 200+mm is da shite".

      ...

      So, I guess going from 160mm to 200+mm can't hurt but actually it can, given haphazard fitment.
      Thanks for the insights. I too am a rim-brake-hope-for-the-best kind of rider. Even worse, my Bridgestone uses long-armed side-pull brakes to accomodate a 650b conversion. Despite all that I've never had any trouble stopping quickly or locking up either wheel at will.

      The tires and brakes were the first things I ordered and I wanted the best cable driven disc brakes I could find, so I got Paul Klampers. They are certainly spendy, so here's hoping they're worth it. I'll have to report back on how they perform with the Kool Stop pads that came with them and 160s. From reading around on here it(and the Bridge Club's tolerances) it sounds like metallic pads and a 203 rotor up front might be the first upgrades once this thing rolls. I love going fast, but I like remaining in one piece even more.



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