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2018 Crust Scapegoat, BBS02 or BBSHD, Rohloff IGH

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  • yeahbike
    replied
    Originally posted by ncmired View Post
    I don't think I've ever just bumped up the rotor without messing with other factors as well, such as carefully tweaking the pad to rotor alignment (radius and clearance) and trying out other pad compounds, so I can't say "going from 160mm to 200+mm is da shite".

    ...

    So, I guess going from 160mm to 200+mm can't hurt but actually it can, given haphazard fitment.
    Thanks for the insights. I too am a rim-brake-hope-for-the-best kind of rider. Even worse, my Bridgestone uses long-armed side-pull brakes to accomodate a 650b conversion. Despite all that I've never had any trouble stopping quickly or locking up either wheel at will.

    The tires and brakes were the first things I ordered and I wanted the best cable driven disc brakes I could find, so I got Paul Klampers. They are certainly spendy, so here's hoping they're worth it. I'll have to report back on how they perform with the Kool Stop pads that came with them and 160s. From reading around on here it(and the Bridge Club's tolerances) it sounds like metallic pads and a 203 rotor up front might be the first upgrades once this thing rolls. I love going fast, but I like remaining in one piece even more.



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  • ncmired
    replied
    Originally posted by yeahbike View Post
    I'm curious about the big honkin rotors.

    ...

    Do you see a lot of improvement moving up in rotor size? Did the smaller one's feel unsafe?
    I don't think I've ever just bumped up the rotor without messing with other factors as well, such as carefully tweaking the pad to rotor alignment (radius and clearance) and trying out other pad compounds, so I can't say "going from 160mm to 200+mm is da shite".

    Here's some thoughts for my situation and builds - YMMV, and all that. I am by no means a pro at this stuff, and I come from the era of "hoping for the best" centerpull calipers on chromed rims:
    1. I'm not wild about components I don't think I could either fix or cobble on the side of the road, so hydraulic brake systems are currently unattractive to me - although I could probably live with the TRP HY/RD caliper (just on the front). I think spending extra time on the caliper fitment is well worth it, resulting in a simple, repairable system that work well and good enough for my purposes.
    2. My riding environment is mostly level paved roads in traffic but mixed in are some short, steep hills, and I often exceed 400 pounds of rolling weight (bike, rider, cargo ... rider). I strive for the sense that just the front brake will be able stop me going down those steep hills - in case my other hand is out hand-signaling. Also, going relatively fast (twenty to mid thirty MPH) seems to work better in traffic WRT establishing lane positions, with the caveat of longer stopping distances.
    3. 200+mm rotors probably shed heat better, and I assume the caliper leverage is improved as well.
    4. Cable operated means I can retain the standard Bafang brake cutoffs and avoid the hoakyness of the hydraulic lever glued-on sensors. I often have others ride my builds and I think having the cutoffs adds to the safety factor for my (elderly, haven't been on a bicycle in ages, non ex-motorcycle) rider guests. There have been severe injuries by/from Bafang-equipped bikes unexpectedly lurching forward (inadvertent motor engagement).
    5. On the Alfine bikes, usually I just stick with the 160mm off the shelf centerlock rear rotors. My riding style is mostly front-brake biased anyway.. The Rohloff bike required the 200+mm rear, for wheel swap ease. On the Neutrino with its 20" wheels, I used a 160mm Origin8 adapted centerlock back and a 180mm front.
    6. I've stuck with using the TRP Spyre calipers, mostly to simplify the fleet and spares.
    So, I guess going from 160mm to 200+mm can't hurt but actually it can, given haphazard fitment.
    Last edited by ncmired; 11-10-2021, 02:39 PM.

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  • yeahbike
    replied
    I'm curious about the big honkin rotors. Currently on my first build which will also be my first bike with disc brakes. Never saw the need for them until I started thinking about ebike weight/speeds. My favorite mechanic at my LBS said 160's should be fine, but shrugged when I said I expect the finished bike to be between 60-70 lbs. Now I'm wondering if I should move up to 203s on the front and 180s on the rear.

    Do you see a lot of improvement moving up in rotor size? Did the smaller one's feel unsafe?

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  • ncmired
    replied
    Originally posted by yeahbike View Post
    What kind of display do you have? I just read the one that came with my kit(sw102) does not have a setting for 27.5 tires.
    Thanks for the comments - this bike has a DPC-14 display, which supports inches and better, circumference in CM. But ... the Ludi V2 controller this bike now has also has its own wheel size setting, and I'm still confused on who wins on some of these settings.

    The DPC-14's downside is that it forgets the settings over time if unused/unpowered, and the clock and (48 volt biased) battery percentage meter are almost worthless.

    On the tires, once I wear out these 2.8s, I have a pair of Maxxis hookworms to try out, then on to some Super Moto X 2.4s - about the minimum tire width Velocity Dually rims will take.
    Last edited by ncmired; 03-30-2023, 05:51 PM.

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  • yeahbike
    replied
    HNNG! This is super close to what I'm aiming for with my Surly. One of the first things I bought was those same tires, but in 2.4. Man, you were really going for bulletproof with the swappable wheels on top of the Rohloff. What a neat idea.

    What kind of display do you have? I just read the one that came with my kit(sw102) does not have a setting for 27.5 tires.

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  • ncmired
    replied
    Fall 2020 update, after maintenance (chain, rear tire, greasing, brake pad adjustment, etc. etc.) - now sports a 52 volt 30AH battery in one of the hard to find riveted bags:

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    The gearing has been lowered (via a 30 tooth chainring), so that the 1:1 gear is the go to gear - doing so violates the Rohloff cog to chainring ratio rule (oh well).
    Last edited by ncmired; 11-17-2020, 12:52 PM.

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  • ncmired
    replied
    Originally posted by Wischman View Post
    I came up with this exact idea, then find your post. Nice Job on the write up, thank you.

    How are you liking it a year later?
    What's the q factor measure to be?

    Are you interested in selling?
    Hi - thanks for the compliment.

    The Q factor for both the BBSHD (stock Bafang cranks) and BBS02 (Lekkie cranks) configurations are wide, but could be narrowed up by using other cranks - I rough tape-measured 195mm. I've gone with shorter crank arms on my builds, to buy back a little cornering clearance.

    The 2.8 Super Moto X tires roll really nice and are holding up well, but I think now I could have gone with smaller, lighter tires - 2-2.4 inch or so would be fine.

    Thanks, but I'm not considering selling it - it's still in flux, purpose-wise. I had gone in the pack mule direction, but with the 30AH frame battery it may transmute into a long distance traveler.

    Have you looked at Crust's Evasion?
    Last edited by ncmired; 10-10-2019, 09:49 AM.

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  • Wischman
    replied
    I came up with this exact idea, then find your post. Nice Job on the write up, thank you.

    How are you liking it a year later?
    What's the q factor measure to be?

    Are you interested in selling?

    Leave a comment:


  • datcharge
    replied
    here's a shot of my trusty old Diamondback I took today. Getting a 20 x 2.15 tire to replace the 20 x 1.5 on it now

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  • datcharge
    replied
    Definitely copper! And I'd toss a gold chris king headset on it

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  • ncmired
    replied
    That new pile of Evasion frames is awful tempting - but I've way overspent my e-bike allowance. My step-thru Evasion build went very nicely. What color would you go for - copper or raw? Congrats on that magical fork.
    Last edited by ncmired; 02-19-2024, 07:00 AM.

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  • datcharge
    replied
    Sick! I built up an old Diamondback Outlook I've had for years with a Crust Clydesdale fork and just last week put a BBSHD on it. Loving it. I keep thinking about selling off a few other bikes and just building up an Evasion as a do-it-all (not e-) bike.

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  • ncmired
    replied
    Originally posted by ChrisJTX View Post
    Can you get a thumb shifter on these bad boys? So far I have only seen half twist.. thinking about purchasing one under the wife radar haha.
    The only other, non barrel shifter I've found is the paddle shifter set from Cinq5 - http://www.en.cinq5.de/schaltsysteme...for-flat-bars/ and the Gebla Rohbox, which is an adapter of sorts to trigger shifters - http://www.rohbox.com/.
    Last edited by ncmired; 08-08-2021, 06:41 AM.

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  • ChrisJTX
    replied
    Can you get a thumb shifter on these bad boys? So far I have only seen half twist.. thinking about purchasing one under the wife radar haha.

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  • ncmired
    replied
    Hi Chris, thanks for stopping by - the tires are very nice. I rode on the stock, tubeless Maxxis Minion FBF tires all of once and hated the wheelbarrow-like steering feeling, not to mention the noise. The bike's geometry seems to work well with the Schwalbe 27.5 by 2.8 Moto street tires, as in very stable, and not flighty - which is how I want a bike to behave at my age. I run them with tubes at 40lbs, down from the max of 45lbs.

    I'll try dropping to 30-35lbs, based on experiences.

    Yep, the bike has a Rohloff. For now I'm sticking with IGH hubs with beefy 1/8 chains. I am using a redundant (to the rocker dropouts) chain tensioner to reduce chain cuts, as I'm still messing with the rear sprocket gearing. I try to set the bike's overall gearing so that I'm predominately riding in the hub's 1:1 gear (5th on a Nexus 8, 11th on the Rohloff).
    Last edited by ncmired; 04-06-2023, 05:45 AM.

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