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Bafang BBSHD (BBS03) on Cube Hanzz 190 SL (2018) - instructions and photos

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    Bafang BBSHD (BBS03) on Cube Hanzz 190 SL (2018) - instructions and photos

    I used Cube Hanzz 190 SL (2018) bike which is a high-quality downhill bike that was on sale at Chain Reaction Cycles at a great price of 1742 EUR (42% off).
    With every bike, CRC also delivers a free set of basic pedals and a pedal wrench.

    Bike and frame

    Link to Cube Hanzz 190 SL (2018) spec sheet.

    This bike has many desirable properties: Class 5 bike, aluminium frame, full suspension, 203/180mm rotors, strong front fork, SRAM GX, Code (and all other SRAM) components, and 83mm BSA/threaded bottom bracket.
    Also it has a quality chainguard, high-quality Raceface aluminum chainring (which wears like steel), and Raceface Chester ISIS crankset. These pieces will remain unused when the build is complete so you're left with nice, quality spares for other bikes or for sale.

    And the bike has three drawbacks: one is that the diagonal tube (going from BB to fork) doesn't start at a steep angle so the BBSHD motor is pointing mostly downwards after mounting, rather than semi-horizontal. This did not end up being a huge problem, though. Another one is that Hanzz has a chainguard around the chainring, which requires cutting off one of three small aluminium ears that are used for mounting it to the frame before the motor will go in (this ended up being an advantage in fact, as I'll explain below). And last, there are no water bottle mounts on the frame, so magnets which hold the battery can't be screwed in its place.

    BBSHD motor, other parts, and install tools

    I went with 120mm BBSHD. Originally I did this because I wanted to have the ability to mount it on a fatbike later. But I would actually advise you do the same because in the end, after adding spacers and everything, this will give you almost symmetrical left and right pedal (there will be only ~2.5mm difference in distance from the bottom bracket to each pedal).

    I purchased the following from Lunacycle, and many of these parts fortunately helped me be able to install the motor, so I suggest you buy them too:

    4x BBSHD-CRSPCR-LUNA (Luna Chain Ring Spacer for the Bafang HD)
    2x BBSHD-SPCRKIT (Spacer KIT for BBSHD Bottom Bracket Fitting (4 pieces))
    1x Bafang BBSxx Brake - Pair -- This is only for non-hydraulic brakes and you don't need this otherwise, but anyway I used one brake for "stop motor" function (explained below)
    1x LUNA-TOOLKIT (Luna Cycle Ebike Tool Kit) -- This kit does not include a tool for removing Octalink/ISIS crankset!! (explained below)
    1x Luna Wrench
    1x Luna Eclipse ChainRing for the BBSHD, preferred 42T, but also 48T is an option -- Lifesaver!! (explained below)
    1x Luna C961 Standard Display -- This one is horizontal and takes a lot of space. I'd buy a vertical one if I were to do it again
    1x Bafang BBSxx Universal Thumb Throttle -- Some people advise to always buy 2 throttles to have one spare
    1x Optional Hydro Cutoffs: Bafang Hydraulic and Disc Brake EBrake Sensors (didn't install it yet)
    1x Programming cable
    1x Gear Sensor for Derailers and IGHs (didn't install it yet)
    1x BBSHD motor with 120mm axle
    1x PF-41 adapter for Pressfit bottom brackets -- Lifesaver!! (highly recommended to purchase this, explained below)

    As mentioned, Luna Toolkit does not include a tool to remove Octalink/ISIS crankset (it only includes tool for a square one). Since Hanzz comes with a Raceface Chester ISIS crankset, you need to purchase this removal tool separately, and if anyone asks the tool description is "standard ISIS compatible crank puller with M22x1 thread".

    From other/generic tools needed for installation, I used strong pliers, battery-powered screwdriver, and a multicutter tool. Also I preferred CRC-delivered rubber-protected pedal removal tool over the bare metal ones from Luna toolkit.

    Installation steps

    1) Remove existing crankset with the help of 8mm Allen key (from Luna toolkit), ISIS crank extractor, and some wrenches from Luna toolkit.

    2) Once you remove that, you'll be left with empty 83mm BSA/threaded bottom bracket

    3) Before the motor will fit through, you will need to use the multicutter to cut off the bottom-right aluminium "ear" (the one closest to the front wheel) which is welded to the bottom bracket to hold the chainguard. (In the images you'll see it as top-left because I rotated the bike upside down, but I'll always refer to positions as if we are looking at the bike as shown in picture 1 which shows the Hanzz).
    Using a multicutter will produce small aluminium shavings that will fall all around. Have a vacuum cleaner running while cutting so that most of them would be picked up immediately, and also as other forum members suggest, when cutting be sure to protect the bottom bracket so that no shavings would fall into it or on its threads. (We won't need those threads, but it is a good precaution anyway)

    4) Picture 4 shows it partly cut off, and picture 5 shows how the end result looked like. In the end result I cut about 1mm or 2mm more than was absolutely necessary for the motor to fit in. If you want to play with it, you can try cutting precisely the minimum needed so that the motor would slide in.
    Note that you should not touch any of the other two chainguard threads at all, and especially not the bottom-left one because we will use it as a physical barrier to prevent the motor from rotating backwards towards the back wheel. Image 6 shows how it fits once the motor is in, and how perfectly the bottom-left ear is holding it in place!

    5) Now, once the motor slides in, you will notice that you need some spacers on the chainring side, because the motor casing touches the chainstay before it manages to touch the bottom bracket (picture 7 shows using a PF-41 aluminium part as a spacer with Luna Eclipse 48T chainring, but if you use 42T (like I later did) use normal spacers and you'll save some 5-6 mm. More details in posts below.). Using PF-41 as spacers did the job magnitudes better than any spacers could have done in its particular position, but regardless of which spacers are used and which chainring size, the distance from the chainstay should be within 1 millimeter! (pictures 8-9)

    6) Now, mount the Luna eclipse chainring and marvel at how close and perfect it comes to the chainstay (picture 10). I used Bafang's original screws which are black, rather than Luna-supplied silver ones.

    (To be continued in the next post)
    Last edited by dev; 04-03-2019, 11:16 PM.

    7) Now we are on the other side of the bottom bracket (left side). Install the second piece of the PF-41 adapter to act as the spacer for the other side. (picture 1).
    Note that you should probably not do this if you have a 100mm BBSHD axle, as the black metal part that is used to fix the motor from this side needs to sit tight next to the bottom bracket, so that it can "bite" into it with small ridges once you tighten it.
    However, since I had to use a spacer due to 120mm axle, and since the bottom-left chainguard "ear" is keeping motor in place, it was not crucial to put the black metal part directly onto the BB, and so a spacer was inserted.

    8) Install the black metal part which is used to hold the motor, followed by 3 thickest aluminum spacers. (also picture 1). These spacers come from the spacers set, but for some reason out of dozens of spacers that I ordered, the metal ones were too large and loose, and most of the aluminium ones were too tight to fit. I'm not sure what their true purpose is. So these 3 thickest aluminium ones that you see are the only ones that even fit. Perfect!

    9) The black metal part needs to be used along with 2 screws to attach to the prepared threads on the motor casing and tighten everything together. The Bafang-provided black screws were too long (they would have exited on the other side), so instead use two shorter silver screws from Luna install helper kit.
    Also, there is about 5-6mm space between the metal part and the threads in the housing. I didn't want the screws to remain in the open (and subject to more rust), so I took one of the Bafang-provided protecting tubes and cut it in half with the multicutter. Each half was perfectly sized to fit between the black metal part and the housing! (picture 2)

    10) Finally, tighten everything (picture 3). The non-visible metal nut is the one which needs to be tightened strongly. The outer aluminium one is just a cover; don't go too strong on it.

    11) Attach pedals. Don't go too strong with the hex wrench or the threads will come off. I wanted to make sure that the pedals were pressed onto the axle before I even started tightening, so I lightly hit them with a hammer, using padding/protection in between not to chip the paint or make visible damage.

    12) Regarding cable routing, there are multiple options that the bike allows, but I chose to go from the motor up, in between the seat tube and the moving parts of the rear suspension. There is enough space, and as suspension is working the space becomes even bigger so there's no risk of pressing on anything.

    13) Regarding connections, you will notice that all cables are color- and/or connector-coded, so you should have no issues figuring out what goes where.
    In short, the main wire with 4 connectors on one side goes to the headset, and the connectors are 1 for throttle, 1 for display, and 2 for brakes/motor cutoffs.
    On the motor there are 4 wires - one goes to the headset as explained, one is for the battery, one (yellow) is for gear sensor, and one is for speed sensor. Both of those latter ones go towards the back wheel.

    14) Regarding the display, the handlebar is very thick in the middle on this bike and at least the C961 display does not have large enough diameter of the mounts to be mounted on it.
    Also, the distance between the two horizontal mounts for C961 is such that it interferes with the double mounts that hold the handlebar, so for both reasons the display can't be mounted in the middle.
    If using C961 (or any other display which suffers from the diameter problem), I would probably suggest to use a 3D printer to make a custom mount.

    15) Finally, some pictures from both sides of the bike.
    Last edited by dev; 02-13-2019, 09:46 AM.


      Sprockets reordering

      It appears that after modifications, the chain is directly straight when it goes to the 2nd smallest sprocket (out of total 10) on the gear casette.

      So one can shift into the first 6-7 gears, and the solution to keep the same total range is to reorder the sprockets on the casette.

      The idea how to do that is explained in this thread:

      And these two videos show how to actually do it (the tools for the job are found in the Luna Toolkit): - Identifying casette type, also shows SRAM PG-1050 one which is identical to Hanzz' PG-1030. - Showing how to actually unscrew. From Luna Toolkit you'll use 4 tools - the one with a chain on it to hold the casette from spinning, the screw, and the hex wrench + the black square thing on it to turn the screw clockwise.

      Hanzz comes with SRAM PG-1030 with 11-28T. This casette is hard to reorder because the last 3 sprockets are held together as a single piece, and the first three have non-standard spacers and also need to be in exact order. So in essence, no customization is possible because the first and last three can't be modified.

      I solved that by purchasing a new casette - the same part number, SRAM PG-1030, but with 11-36T instead of 11-28T. This casette has some better properties:

      1) Only last two sprockets are held together as a single piece
      2) Only first two sprockets have non-standard spacers
      3) All other sprockets use standard spacers
      4) 11-36T gives higher range within the same 10 speeds, so difference between sprockets is larger, which is favorable for our purpose


      The original 11-28T has sprockets (the "=" indicates gears that can't be reordered due to fixed or custom spacers between them):
      11 = 12 = 13 - 14 - 15 - 17 - 19 - 22 = 25 = 28

      The new 11-36T has sprockets:
      11 = 13 - 15 - 17 - 19 - 22 - 25 - 28 - 32 = 36

      So I took the new casette and initially I wanted to use the first 6 gears reordered like this:
      ( 11 = 13 - 17 - 22 - 25 - 28 ) - 15 - 19 - 32 = 36

      But it appears that the jump from 17 to 22 was too much and the chain would get stuck, so I went for the idea of using first 7 gears, ordered like this:
      ( 11 = 13 - 17 - 19 - 22 - 25 - 28 ) - 15 - 32 = 36

      And this now shifts very smoothly, but because of the front chainring being 48T, even the lightest gear (28T) still feels somewhat heavy. Without a battery I believe this wouldn't be usable on hills.
      Last edited by dev; 04-03-2019, 11:17 PM.


        Chain sizing

        I had to get a new chain because the original one was too short - it couldn't make a shift from 48T chainring onto 25T sprocket.

        The procedure for sizing a chain is described at:

        I got a new SRAM PC1051 chain, and when I sized it, I removed only the last link even though I surely could have shortened it by 2, or maybe even 3.

        The installation was easy, and finally for locking the master link, I didn't have the special chain pliers, and I couldn't put enough force on the chain to make the master link lock into position.
        As a solution, I took two thin screwdrivers, inserted them through the chain (one left and one right from the master link) and then exerted force on them as if I was pulling the chain apart. After a significant amount of force, the master link snapped into position.
        Last edited by dev; 04-03-2019, 11:19 PM.


          Using Luna Eclipse 42T

          Later I used Luna Eclipse 42T chainring instead of 48T, for two reasons:

          - ability to bring the chainring closer to the frame (straigher chainline)
          - smaller difference in teeth between the chainring and largest rear sprocket to which I can still shift

          Nothing much changed compared to the described setup, except that this resulted in the following:

          - chainring closer to the frame by some 5-6 mm
          - easier screwing of the mounting plate into the motor housing (there's no gap any more so step #9 from above wasn't needed)
          - because the motor axle was now more to the left, some more spacers had to be added there, and a lot of the threaded area was left exposed after I tightened everything.
          I didn't want the threads to remain in the open, so I conveniently used the PF-41 spacer to cover all of the threads with a single, solid piece, and then I screwed the end caps after that.

          The end result was that I was able to shift into 7th gear easier than previoously, and the 7th gear is now easier to pedal than before.