No announcement yet.

2019 Montague Highline Paratrooper TSDZ-2 Electric Bike Build

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    2019 Montague Highline Paratrooper TSDZ-2 Electric Bike Build

    2019 Montague Highline 650b Folding cycle.

    2019 68mm BB TSDZ-2, 750W, 52v @ 15 A (15A limit set in firmware at my request. 17A is max "safe" programmable limit). This Kit comes with Internal Spindle Torque Sensor, Internal Cadence sensor, Wheel Speed sensor, handlebar mounted Throttle, 2 ea. e-brake magnetic cutoffs (not used), and external lighting harness. Requested the "default" 100 RPM cadence programming (.vs 120 cadence optional), and "default" Nylon drive gear (.vs noisier brass drive gear, a $55 option which they would pre-install).

    850C Color Display.

    Motor and display kit are from, I am not affiliated.

    Battery is 52V 17AH, 14S5P-35E, and 5A charger, from Specify an XT90S connector for the main electrical, and the wire length you want. The default length was more than enough distance from rear rack inside bag, to motor connectors. If you want more than default length, they will supply a finished, sealed, wire extension with connectors.

    Tires are WTB Byway 47, 650b Road Plus, WNL 1456.

    Seat is Bikeroo Seat for Seniors, p/n B075L7JYTC, from Amazon.

    Pedals are Lixada Quick Release model #QAG6871682503888WP, Y6994, from Amazon.

    Stem Raiser is Delta Alloy Stem Raiser, 3.25 in., p/n TD3318B, from

    Adjustable Stem is Kalloy Uno 820, 31.8 x 110 mm from Amazon.

    Tail Bag is Bontrager Interchange Delux Plus, Model 424155 from

    Rack is Optional Montague Rear Rack.

    Necessary optional parts:

    BBSHD-SPCRKIT from (I used 1 ea thick, and 1 ea. thin spacer).

    Dilwe 10 Set Hydraulic Disc Brake Hose Olive Connector Insert for Tektro Replacement Part, B07G7HX57F from Amazon.

    Tektro Brake Systems Brake Disc Tektro HYD Hose Kit Draco/Auriga Comp-Ws 1800Mm (hydraulic brake line) from Amazon.

    Shimano MTB Shift Cable Set OPTISLICK (NEW Material) from Amazon. (returned unused).

    Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-9 Heavy Duty Bicycle U Lock Bike Lock, B06XCDZND2 from Amazon.

    Blue loctite.


    This build went together very quickly because I had obtained all the needed stuff beforehand. You will definitely need a spacer kit from Luna, the spacers will be inserted on the drive side of the spindle. These spacers provide some clearance for the motor chassis so to not hit the bike frame. I was done installation and riding in about 4 hours.

    The motor kit bolted right up. One minor mod required me to go to the HW store for longer screws and a "short stack" of steel washers. The supplied allen head screws that mount the motor to the BB bracket (non-drive side motor mount bracket), were too short by about 0.75 inch. The supplied bracket spacers were also too short, so I used a stack of 5 ea. thin washers per side. The bracket that keep the motor from torque twisting also bolted right up, no mods needed.

    The battery from em3ev fits snugly into the Bontrager rear bag. I like that the battery has an on/off switch, and that it comes sealed in a hard plastic case. It is very well sealed against water, All the electrical connections are sealed through the case. It's very well made. The bag fits perfectly onto the Montage rack with a very small amount of dremel work on a weld at the rack's rear, and the use of a heavy duty tie wrap in front.

    The electrical also "bolted" right up. I did not need to break out the crimpers or soldering iron. The motor kit is supplied with bullit connectors to the main electrical. These bullits connect to a (kit supplied) XT90S pigtail. You plug the bullits (triple checking the correct polarity!) into the pigtail, and then the XT90S plugs into the XT90S connector on the battery. Tape up the exposed bullit connectors, and be done in literally 10 minutes.

    Be careful of the tire width you choose, this cycle does not fold too well if fat tires are installed. I chose a "medium" width 47mm road tire.

    If you decide on a tall bar riser interface, you'll need longer brake lines, but the Shimano Deore shifter lines are long enough to not need replacement. (The front derailluer gets removed).

    No chain length adjustment was needed with using the standard supplied 42T chaing ring that comes with motor kit. The chainline lines up with (counting from smallest rear gear) 4th gear. I can access all the rear gears, and the chain does not slide off the chain ring.

    There is a small amount of Q offset, side to side standing pedal offset. Drive side measures 2 7/8", and non drive side measures 1 3/4" from bike centerline to crank pedal base (flat). This is tolerable to me, I do not need any adjustment from this small amount.

    I had fun building this, and figuring out the very minor problem stuff along the way.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_7778 (Copy).JPG Views:	1 Size:	268.5 KB ID:	83552

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_7771 (Copy).JPG Views:	1 Size:	136.8 KB ID:	83553

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_7779 (Copy).JPG Views:	1 Size:	274.8 KB ID:	83554

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_7759 (Copy).JPG Views:	1 Size:	117.5 KB ID:	83555

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_7760 (Copy).JPG Views:	1 Size:	190.9 KB ID:	83556

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_7763 (Copy).JPG Views:	1 Size:	149.6 KB ID:	83557

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_7764 (Copy).JPG Views:	1 Size:	251.5 KB ID:	83558

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_7773 (Copy).JPG Views:	1 Size:	36.6 KB ID:	83559

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_7780 (Copy).JPG Views:	1 Size:	144.5 KB ID:	83560
    Last edited by mebgardner; 03-05-2019, 02:58 PM.

    Some notes:

    24 miles round trip, full battery. 850C Display indicates 57.0 volts at full charge. Mostly level route, with some small hills (10-30 ft) encountered along the route. Maintained level 3 to 4 assist during route. Very small (negligible) use of throttle (for testing). Upon trip completion, display indicates 55.4 V and display battery level indicates still full (all bars). The 850C Display also indicates 850 Watts/hr as "amount of effort / battery drain". This is displayed as a "tach" graphic around the bottom edge of the "circle center" Km/Hr speed graphic. This "tach" watt meter remained in the "yellow" portion of the graphic during the entire route. Red tops the indication at 1000 w/hr.

    There are some "dead zones" in the assist. I'm not sure why yet. These dead zones usually appear when needing uphill assist, and the motor not providing any. They did not always appear either. That is, given the same conditions, sometimes I got assist and sometimes I did not. Sometimes the dead zone (no assist) would appear for 15 seconds (feels like a long time when going uphill and then levelling out), sometimes it would appear for a couple seconds followed by diminished assist (not as much as before). Overall, the assist appears to be not smooth, no matter how smooth I was on the gear changes and increasing or decreasing pedal effort during changing conditions. The key seems to be to keep the pedals moving constantly. It does not like coasting (downhill) and then pedaling with large effort uphill. I sometimes got the impression that the torque sensor part of the system decreased the assist level when I increased the torque applied to the pedals. I believe that's wrong, though. I think I've read that this system should provide more assist during periods of more applied human effort. Bottomline: Overall, the assist is not smooth during changing conditions. When not changing, with steady state speed / effort, then the assist was pretty smooth. I'll delve into why this might be, but I bought the 850C display knowing that the system is not firmware programmable with this display. (FW is encrypted and may be locked. Not Open Source code).

    I am sensitive to the amount of noise from the system, and I was worried about the level of noise that would be present during use. It starts as a "beehive" sound when brand new. By 10 miles in, it became pretty quiet. I would call it "a chain needing oiling" type of sound. It became a background noise, *just enough* noise to tell your ears the motor was providing some assist. I quickly became used to it, and it became a not notiicable background noise. I ordered the motor with the standard "default" nylon gear, figuring that would be quietest. I am no longer concerned about the level of noise from the system, and I consider it to be quiet. If you need your ebike to be absolutely silent, then buy the 250W assist $5500.00 Pedego. That was my comparison. I have a metal replacement gear on hand for if / when I peanut butter the nylon gear.

    The assist stops being provided when speed increased above 25 Km/hr. This feels pretty slow by my standards. But, if I wanted assist, I had to stay at or below that limit. This may be display parameter programmable, and I'm hoping it is. This limit does not bear on the "dead zone" discussion above, when encountering "dead zone" conditions, I was always testing / changing conditions below this speed. So, dead zone was not a "feature" of this max speed limit cutout.

    I had requested 2 ea. ebrake sensor system cutoff switches, one for each brake lever. I did not install them, nor will I. I feel they're not needed. If you want to stop, then stop pedalling and apply brake. That worked every time. Some folks may desire an emergency backup cutoff. If you need that level of assurance, then go ahead and install them.

    The kit and battery come without any documentation. None. Zero. No installation or operation instructions. You can find some barebones installation instructions online, and fortunately I did not encounter any install problems. EM3EV will supply some battery operation instructions online, but not much.

    The battery has an on/off switch. You must turn the battery on for it to charge. Here's the drill: START: Turn the battery OFF at the battery case switch. Make sure it's OFF. Battery can remain connected to the system, but turn the system OFF also (Handlebar mounted power switch). Insure the battery charger is unplugged and the charging cable is disconnected from the battery. NEXT: In This Order: Plug in the charger. "Power" LED is Red. "Charge" LED is Green. NEXT: Plug in the charger cable to the battery. "Power" LED is Red. "Charge" LED is Green. NEXT: Turn the battery ON at the battery case switch. "Power" LED is Red. "Charge" LED is Red. Battery Begin Charging. Charger's fan kicks on. Battery level at current charge state will flash one of four LED green (4 separate level LEDs, low to high charge state). NEXT: Battery level will increase over time and eventually flash the highest level charge state Green LED. Battery stays cool to the touch. Chargers stays cool to the touch. NEXT: When charging is completed, the charger and battery will both turn OFF automatically. "Power" LED is Red. "Charge" LED is Green. NEXT: In this order: Unplug battery charger from wall outlet. Unplug charging cable from battery. DONE. If you see a RED LED illuminate on the battery at any time, then something has gone wrong (or, the battery was dead and did not charge).


      I have solved some more things, and I think I now understand some others.

      There are user programmable features in the 850C display. A quick "double press" of the power button gets you into the configuration pages. The advanced page features are accessed with the password of "1919".

      The battery % remaining display status appears to be based on the non-programmable feature in the 850C display. The display allows the user to set the system for pre-programmed battery voltages and it maxed out at 48V. So, I think that, based on the system believing the battery begins at 48V, that the % remaining status will not show less than 100% until the battery voltage drops below 48V. Oh well, I can live with it. The actual battery voltage is also displayed right next to the % remaining, so I can roll with that.

      The wheel diameter is user programmable, and it was set to 26" for this 27.5" wheelset. I changed it to 28", and now the distance measurement on the display is much closer (but still not yet right). At the same time, I also moved the wheel speed sensor and magnetic "puck" to the outer edge of the rim, because I believe the system SW probably uses time * wheel circumference to calculate travelled distance.

      The max speed limit is user programmable up to a max of 45 Km/hr (about 25 Mi/hr, I think). So, I changed that from 25 to 45.

      The max current limit is user programmable in the advanced menu. I changed that from 15 to 17A.

      Then I went for a ride. Much improved assist, the dead zone business seems to now be gone. It did not appear once, anymore. The max speed appears to be approx. 25 Mi/hr now, and that is good enough for me. Throttle is much more responsive now, too.

      I'm overall pretty happy with the system now, really enjoying the cycle. I hope this has been some help to you.


        Nice build, love those Montague frames - one of these days ...

        You don't by chance have a picture of the motor/frame clearance, and maybe the, what, 3-4mm worth of spacers you ended up with?
        2nd build, 2018 Crust Scapegoat, BBS02 or BBSHD, Rohloff IGH
        3rd build, 2018 Crust Evasion step-thru, BBS02, Shimano Nexus INTER-3 IGH
        4th build, 2016 Salsa Marrakesh flatbar frameset, BBSHD, Alfine 8 IGH

        Visit the forum knowledge base