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Cyclone 3000W on Sikk fat bike with custom AL-plastic battery box

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    Cyclone 3000W on Sikk fat bike with custom AL-plastic battery box

    Greetings everyone. I'd like to share with you my latest project. It's a Sikk fat tire beach cruiser with a Cyclone 3000w motor and custom built battery box.
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    I had a few goals for this project, which included:

    1. Make something big guys could ride. This bike is designed for guys 5'9" and up and can handle up to a 250lb rider.
    2. Use simple gearing without derailleurs, if possible.
    3. Give a fat bike a try.

    I upgraded some items on the bike to improve the ride and braking. I changed the tires to 120 tpi Vee Rubber V8s and upgraded the brakes to Avid DB1 hydraulics. The bike came with oversize ape-hanger handlebars which I found uncomfortable, so those were changed to 5-inch risers.

    The cost of the bike including the upgrades was about $700.

    The battery box is made from aluminum (0.063 in.) which came from a local metal shop. The plastic (0.125 in.) for the sides is standard stock from Grainger. I also purchased a small sheet metal bender to make the bends and a mini table saw to cut the plastic (both from Harbor Freight). The box is large enough for the battery and all the connectors. The wires enter through the bottom and on the front of the box is a panel mount XLR port for charging. The box is attached to the bike using U-clamps I made from some extra aluminum. The clamps were wrapped in heat shrink and foam strips added to the box sides to prevent frame scratching and give a nice, snug fit.

    Materials for battery box was about $50. Click image for larger version

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    The battery is a pair of 6s 16AH Multistars from Hobby King wired in series for 12s. I added a 60A lipo BMS from Greentime and built a custom harness for it. Connectors are XT-90 anti-spark for the discharge wires and XT-60 for the charge wires.

    Battery cost was about $350. Click image for larger version

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    Installing the Luna Cycle Cyclone 3000W was fairly straight forward, but did require a few mods. The bottom bracket is 120mm, so I had to get some longer bolts and extra spacers to make it fit. I was also concerned that the extra width of the BB would put too much stress on the bolts, so I cut out some tabs out of some scrap to secure the motor to the bolts on the non-drive side for extra support. I used a second hose clamp instead of the large zip-tie to secure the motor to the frame. The hose clamps were also wrapped in heat-shrink so they wouldn't scratch and better blend-in with the rest of the bike. I swapped the 44t inner chainring with a 36t to slow the bike down a bit. I used a pair of Origin-8 chain tensioners to keep proper tension on the chain.

    Cost of motor kit and additional parts was about $450. Click image for larger version

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    The ride is really a lot of fun. It a has a lot of grunt, which is what I was after. The cyclone is a bit loud but I'm getting used to it. Plus I've read the gearbox gets quieter as it wears in. The extra volume of the fat tires take a little getting used to on the street. I did limit the speed to 25 mph as I feel this is fast enough for the frame and stock rims. With the 3-speed I can easily climb any hill in my area. Acceleration is very quick.

    Other accessories to complete the build: Luna Cycle e-brake sensors, Luna Cycle rear LED light, Ebay 10W headlight, cost about $50.

    Total cost of the build was about $1600.

    More pictures of this and my other projects can be seen on my website: www.ebikekc.com

    Thanks for looking!

    Dave
    Last edited by E-bikeKC; 08-22-2016, 09:01 AM. Reason: Edited to fix image spacing.

    #3
    The battery box is very nicely done. I also have fat tire stretch cruiser, and I love it ( electra lux)
    Last edited by spinningmagnets; 08-23-2016, 03:26 AM. Reason: speling

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      #4
      Wow, that is the nicest cyclone build I have seen. Cool battery box and you barely notice the controller which normally sticks out like a sore thumb. Very well done.

      Comment


        #5
        So my latest build is a SIKK fat wheel bike which I bought online for $399. The reason for this bike purchase was because I'm 6' 2" and most times when


        Thismis my build but lately I've been getting the "cyclone bug". Any way to fit the motor inside the triangle?

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        #6
        Wow, neat lines on that bike. I've never seen a battery quite in that position, but it looks great there, curved form of the box complimenting the frame. Unique and cool.
        Fabrication is fun! Build something today. Show someone. Let them help. Inspire and share. Spread the desire.

        Comment


          #7
          Thanks for the kind words, everyone.

          I bought a Cyclone PAS sensor from Luna Cycle in order to give PAS a try. But I'm having some trouble getting it to work.

          My first issue is, I don't understand how to mount the sensor ring. The motor brackets are in the way. Does anyone have a picture of an installed Cyclone PAS? Because I just don't see how it goes on without the brackets getting in the way.

          My second issue is, I can't get it work, even in a test. I installed the magnet wheel onto the spindle, then I plugged in the sensor to the controller and held it as close as I could to the magnet wheel while I spun the crank. But the motor does not engage, no matter how close I get the sensor. Also, the throttle still works, even thought the PAS sensor is plugged in. I thought the throttle was supposed to disengage when the PAS sensor is plugged in?

          I did check the voltage on the PAS wires coming from the controller. I got 4.3V on the red wire and 5.0V on the green wire.

          If anyone can help with these issues, I'd really appreciate it.
          Last edited by E-bikeKC; 09-20-2016, 09:43 AM.

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          • CraigAustin
            CraigAustin commented
            Editing a comment
            Look for a guy named Gman - he was King Cyclone here for awhile, not sure where he went but you can probably find him on ES.

          #8
          Not sure if you found out how to make your pas work but addition to the plug to plug in pas there is also a off on set of plugs called pas on and off plugs those two together and it should work

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            #9
            awesome build.... great work :)

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              #10
              Wow nice build! $350 for a 44v 16ah battery? lol I really need to understand how to use lipo... Where did you get the info for wiring the bms? Thanx!

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                #11
                Originally posted by Brattmjones View Post
                Not sure if you found out how to make your pas work but addition to the plug to plug in pas there is also a off on set of plugs called pas on and off plugs those two together and it should work
                Thanks! I had forgotten all about that. It's been a while since installed everything and all the wires got pushed together so I overlooked it. Will give that a try, hope it works.

                Originally posted by philtc View Post
                Wow nice build! $350 for a 44v 16ah battery? lol I really need to understand how to use lipo... Where did you get the info for wiring the bms? Thanx!
                The wiring diagram is on the web page.

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                You just need to remember that both the 6s positive balance wire of the first lipo brick and the negative balance wire of the second brick need to be connected to B6+ on the BMS. Also soldering the large discharge wires takes a bit of practice. I recommend using no smaller than a 60W iron with a chisel tip and practicing on some scrap to get the hang of it.

                The nice thing about these units is you don't have to use all the channels. You could go up to 16s but I leave the top 4 channels empty and it works fine. It also has LEDs to let you know when each cell hits 4.2V. I'm currently using a Meanwell adjustable power supply to charge. I normally charge to 4.1V/cell and occasionally to 4.2V/cell to balance or if I need a little extra range.

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                  #12
                  Thx for the info . Actually the question would be: do you need to tear apart a lipo pack to make it work with a BMS ? Basically to connect each cells. I had a question about the PAS when I was thinking of buying the cyclone maybe the answer of gman can help . http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...pas-and-others.

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                    #13
                    Nope. Just series connect the main discharge wires, that's it.

                    One more tip: When you're ready to connect the balance leads to the BMS for the first time, check the voltage on each wire before plugging in. You should see each cell's voltage on wires 2-13 (the first wire is the battery negative). If you don't see that, go back and inspect your harness for a fault.

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                      #14
                      The battery is larger Capacity, do you need two 6s lipo battery in series ? How long can it run ? And how long to charger full it ?

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                        #15
                        The battery is larger Capacity, do you need two 6s lipo battery in series ? How long can it run ? And how long to charger full it ?

                        Comment

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