Bbshd on kmx tornado trike

[klp51d]

I wanted to buy an alternative to using my car for minor trips, grocery, bits and pieces etc.
I have no desire to leave paved surfaces but do want to carry minor loads safely.
I bought an electric bike on eBay, an RMartin 36v mid drive. I found it to be too heavy plus the battery was a bit knackered so would need replacing.
With advancing years ones balance starts to diminish. This leads to a feeling of discomfort riding a ‘conventional’ bike. Browsing the web I found grown-up trikes.
I bought one from UtahTrikes, assembling was easy and the result was a comfortable, confidence building ride.
​The name LunaCycle kept popping up on various sites regarding electric mid drive kits, so I investigated and bought a 52v Battery, on sale, then a Bafang BBSHD, again on sale.
Installation was relatively simple. I did have to spend hours looking for some Bafang parts (such as long speedo extension cables) but eventually found most of the unusual parts sold in China.What a surprise!!
I do not like the look of ’normal’ trike control sticks, upside-down throttles and gear shifts etc., so I used ¾” copper plumbing fittings to make space available for all the bits and bobs I added to the trike. I cannot solder for the life of me so, I bough epoxy 2 tube packets from Harbor Freight and stuck them together (with a rivet at the bottom -just in case)
Part of the assemble was a pair of mounting assist mini bars, flopping down from a great height is not something the seat frame appreciates.

I also added the following:

Double pull brake levers, left- L front wheel and motor shutoff switch / right- R front wheel, rear wheel
I removed standard chain tubes installed an aluminum channel chain guard to the top front chain. Re-routed chain, to under the front crossbeam, using a ‘Terracycle’ sports return idler. The chain run is now straight with no sideways deflection. Only 2” clearance one reason for next flight of fancy.
LunaCycle Eclipse aftermarket 42t aluminum chainwheel. Anodized black and polished aluminum, aggressive tooth profile stops chain dismounting at inappropriate times. Nicely made by LunaCycle.
Cables replaced with ‘Jagwire’ outer and inner.
Cateye Computer, sensor mounted to front wheel.
Speedo extension cables to mount sensor pickup on rear wheel.
It is possible whilst riding trikes to have ones foot come off the pedals. If one is going at any good speed, naughty things can happen when ones leg gets stuck under the front wheel mounting crossbar.
I changed out the pedals to Shimano PD-M520L MTB pedals with SM-SH51 SPD cleats.
I also bought a blanking plate for one side of the pedals and straps to enable use with regular shoes. Belt and braces but better than a broken leg!
Front and rear lights.
I bought a fancy light/indicators remote switch thingy… doesn’t work caveat emptor.
Nice sounding bell (well, I like it)
Bafang BBSHD electric motor with 5 pedal assist modes, throttle available in all modes 0% to 100% (labelled 750w actual 1000w at 48v)
52v 11.5 ah battery using genuine Samsung 18650 29e cells c/w std charger for 52v batteries.
4g welding cable run from fusebox to Victron/motor cables to minimize voltage drop.
Box bolted to seat contains 60v 40A fuse and separate shunt for Victron volt meter (it will also read amp hours with some mental mathematics. I had it laying around so I used it)
Front box contains Victron meter and an electrical shut-off switch with removable handle (casual thief deterrent plus emergency power shut-off available for quick deployment)
Battery does have an on/off switch but not available when seated.
Battery does have “charge level” LED strip.
To remove battery one has to loosen the top bag mounting plate bolts and unlock it with the key lock.
A thief would have to be very determined and have plenty of time to remove the battery.
I never intended that the trike would be in one place and the battery charging in another.
Handlebar mounted Bafang C965 motor control and monitor screen.
Throttle is left side, gear shift right side. With hub gears motorcycle shifting is advisable (close throttle, shift, open throttle. Hub gears prefer slack chain when shifting derailleur prefer tight chain.
I did install a motor disconnect switch to the right side brake lever, it never did work (I don’t know why it was brand new and installed per instructions) PITA to remove so I left it in situ. However, the one mounted to the left side brake lever does work.

My next flight of fancy.
I have bought 2-24” rims and front hubs from UtahTrike and am going to try my hand at wheel lacing. As Jezzer says “How hard can it be” ?????
I think I like the look of all 3 wheels being 24” with Big Apple tires (poor mans suspension)

Also thinking about adding a ⅜” dia. FRP frame with a 100W PV cell mounted to it to provide around 1v - 1.5v trickle charge to the main battery as well as shade from our lovely California sun, sometimes too nice.

Bill of Materials.

KMX TORNADO TRIKE:
UPG11617527 Satin Black
STKCFG KMX 42T Single Crankset with Bashguard (replaced with LunaCycle 42t chainwheel)
STKCFG KMX 16in Front Wheels Disc brakes
UPG11618738 24in Rear Wheel
UPG11619330 8-speed Shimano Nexus Transmission, w/Shifter, Tensioner, Small Parts, Chain c/w Shimano Nexus BR-IM80 rear roller brake.
UPG11616502 Schwalbe Big Apple 16x2.0 50-305 tires
UPG11616503 Schwalbe Big Apple 24x2.00 tire
STKCFG KMX Rear Mudguard Fender
STKCFG KMX Power Idler Front (Deluxe Delrin 14T)
STKCFG KMX Wide Platform Pedals (replaced with Shimano cleat)
STKCFG Bangle 160mm Mechanical Disc Brakes
UPG211 Combined Double Pull Front Brake Lever Non-Locking
STKCFG KMX Bucket Seat (steel)
STKCFG KMX Logo Flag
KMX Front Hand Guards
Spare pair KMX Handlebar
‘Ibera’ PakRak IB-RA4 luggage rack.
‘Ibera’ IB-BA16 panniers l & r
‘Iberia’ IB-BA15 removable top bag (take helmet and stuff with you)

[schosh]

Very nice build..
I totally agree with your choice of the KMX as a platform..strong , value priced and easily modified-ed.
I couldn't agree more on most of your choices..espcailly the pedals and the big apples.

I am in the process of motorizing an older Terra-Tryke Rover 8 which is somewhat similar to the KMX. This was the first trike I bought when I began riding 7 years ago and though I have moved up to a Catrike trail for most of my riding,I've kept the Rover for sharing the joy of trike-ing to others.

I have a couple of questions for you . I see you have your motor rotated so that it appears to contact the top of the boom . I tried this and found it puts a lot of stress on the chainline when using the pedalec and starting from a complete stop. Does your tensioner set up absorb this force ? Did you have to modify the rear drop outs with any sort of torque arms or additional axle positioners? Did you have your controller re-programed to give a gentler "ramp" when using the pedalec functions?( I just ordered a cable from Luna for this purpose). Did you consider a gear cable sensor to kill the power when you are shifting?

I look forward to learning more about your experiences with your trike..
Bill

[klp51d]

Hi Bill,
Thanks for the kind words.
Simple answer to first question: I originally installed the motor under the boom. However, as soon as I applied power it just rotated to above the boom. The friction grip of the mount does not appear to be able to overcome the torque. I did lean on it with a cheater bar so it is as tight as I can get it. So, rather than fight it I wrapped two 24" zip ties (Harbor Freight again) around the motor then 2 -12" through them and around the boom.Seems pretty secure. One advantage of paint it black one can get away with murder and it does not show!
The chain-line kicks a bit but nothing drastic. The jib absorbs most of the kick (torque), the tensioner has a fairly easy life. No mods to the frame nor to controller (just as Luna sent it) I cannot reprogram controller because I only use Mac computers and China has not heard of them yet, until they buy Apple!!
I did buy a 1 1/4" square length of solid aluminum bar (ebay) and some 1/16" & 1/8" flat bar OSH. The intention was to cut it to length and insert it all the way into the front boom and assemble the sliding boom onto it using the flat-bar to shim everything concentrically, this should reinforce the whole boom against torque. Still might do it when I install the 24" wheels. If you have a round boom you could buy solid round stock, shimming is a bit of a puzzle you would have to sort out.
I bought the aftermarket motor kill switch that does not work, so I am a bit leary of the gear change interrupter working. I rode motorcycles in the 12th century so gear changing as I described works for me. If you are running derailleur gears make sure to get the right version of two.
Hope this helps, main thing is to have fun and explore, so you can't really screw up....just spend, spend, spend money!

For some reason the editor does not like inch ticks so read &quot: as inches.

[keimil]

About Bbshd on kmx tornado trike
Hello kip51d. keimil here. Please excuse my inexperience on this site.

Background: I have a KMX Toronado via Utah Trikes, with a electric drive that overheats and is insufficient for the hills around here (1000 watt power correlated to a Cyclone Mid-Drive, Nuvinci IGH). My path or wishlist direction ,to remedy this overheating, would be to swap the rear hub drive motor and wheel assembly with a Divinci IGH. (I am inquiring at Utah trikes concerning this- they offer it in the KMX 2020 version- which my other trike has ,and I like this IGH.)

Likewise, I attempted to have Utah Trike bid to furnish the BBSHD on a new boom but they don't do that one. I guess I will have to get the boom elsewhere along with the Divinci wheel, tire, rim.... I was going to purchase another KMX boom and replace the Patterson 2 speed ( leaving the patterson on the old boom. Maybe I can sell it as a unit? The other trike has a cyclone drive and it climbs very well and is a little noisey, but I don't care for the feel of the peddles - through this complex free-wheel and ratchet assembly- and so I was going to get the BBSHD from Luna Cycle.

The first question I have is : What is the dimension for the Bottom Bracket Boom on the KMX trike boom? In order to purchase the BBSHD you have to know the dimensions of the Bottom Bracket, and I am unsure of the dimension or how to measure it. In my old age ( is this a good excuse ?) I installed the Patterson Drive several years ago and am now, unsure where all that info is today. Too many hard drives and flash drives keep me hunting.

I would also ask: Is the BBSHD happy in any orientation on the KMX boom? Is there an oil reservoir or anything that will be affected if the unit is different than on a 2 wheel bicycle? I thought I would make some struts to limit the rotational torque, but then thought it might not be happy in an arbitrary position. Any thoughts ?



I appreciate any information you might offer and Thank You for your patience.


keimil

[calfee20]

Just mount it on the boom you have. Installing the BBSHD is similar to installing the Patterson drive because you have to get to a bare BB or a front bracket in a trike. You have to measure the width of the bracket.



You don't have to use a mike a caliper or a ruler will do.

Any orientation is fine because they are greased. My BBSHD is upside down because I mounted it inside the frame rather than under it. http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...lectra-cruiser

[keimil]

Thank You guys, I went and had Utah Cycle furnish the BBSHD. What A Cop-Out Huh? Thank You.

[klp51d]

Hi,
68m is the version I bought. You only have two choices, the other choice is wayyyy to wide.
If you install, as I did, the torque from the motor tries to turn the motor against the boom. This makes any additional braces un-necessary.
The only concern would be the torque around the longitudinal axis of the boom, which is aluminum.
Adding reinforcing to this square tube boom would help to combat that. I thought of a solid 1 1/4" square aluminum bar (aluminum shapes only come in a limited range, searching eBay yields good results) with 1/16" & 1/8" shims slid into the main frame square tube. You would need to measure lengths carefully and of course the boom adjustability would be compromised.
I don't have any major hills where I travel so my trike doesn't get a severe workout like yours appears to.

Luna has the cheapest electric bike stuff (honest opinion, not BS).
I have just finished building two 24" front wheels for my trike.
You might consider buy the IGH, rims and spokes from cheaper sources than Utah.
I posted a Component list on this forum of places that offer good prices.
Alternatively you could just take all the bits to a bike shop and tell them "Build it"

re Old age: I was born whilst the Luftwaffe were bombing seven bells out of London. I think I might have you beaten.

[keimil]

Thank You guys, I went and had Utah Cycle furnish the BBSHD. What A Cop-Out Huh? Had I not gotten off on the wrong DD hub motor path- I would have avoided this experience on the first trike. I am trying to recover functionality of that DD hub motor trike and the BBSHD should give it the power it requires.
You people are a wealth of knowledge and all I want to do is read the posts here. Trikes are an ignored species- it seems. Your photos look like my Trikes, all the pannier bags, lights and storage. No wonder it takes so much energy to climb these hills- too much stuff. This is an exciting area and there are some good drive solutions showing up. There goes my allowance money !
Thank You.

[klp51d]

Hope you got a good deal from Utah! No sales tax at least.
I don't care for the crumpled look of the panniers on my trike.
I looked at getting hard sided boxes for motorcycles (Harleys and such) then I found Bike Bins, http://www.bikebins.com/ they go for $80 per pair +/- plus shipping.
The owner is at present touring US & Canada, the company is based in the UK, so I have to wait until November to find out actual cost plus shipping.
Their look fits in with my Lotus 7 (maybe steam punk) rather than Audi styled trike.
I have just completed, after many starts,the lacing of two 24" front wheels for the trike. They are wonky, I expected nothing less, so I shall take them to the LBS and have a professional true and tension them.
For me, installing all the spokes and then lacing the wheel seemed to work best. I guess my brain is wired for pattern recognition rather than repetitive instruction!
The critical part is getting the correct hole orientation on the backside of the hub relative to front side.
I purchased a gear shift interrupter from Luna and a watt, etc. meter. So, I shall be rewiring the bike as well.
When I get the wheels back I shall install the lot in one go. I have already removed the panniers and top box.
Then install either the BikeBins or motorcycle boxes (they would require some creative thinking to get them to attach to my bike rack (aluminum channels spring to mind)

Take care,