Quick question for anyone with this Bullseye Monster LTD frame. Would it be cheaper to buy the complete bike for $600 and then replace the many parts you do not want (which is almost everything) or buy the bare naked Frame for $209, and then install the parts I actually do want? I want to build the bike without the derailer or a premade battery and fully DIY it myself. The below video shows you exactly what I want to build with a few tweaks.
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Gravity BullseyeMonster LTD with BBHSD and 52V 13.5 ah Panasonic Shark Pack
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Hey motoray, I live here in Bend and recently bought the same bicycle and want to convert it. Any chance I might be able to check yours out ?
Thanks
Adam Tate
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Yep - agreed. Not the end of the world.
Still, it seems like the 110mm should/could/would be as popular as the 120mm. In my case, the 110mm would let me get both nuts on and still move it over for near perfect pedal centering as well as chainline. With the 120mm, I will still be able to center the pedals, but they will be 10mm farther apart, and with the 42T ring the chainline probably won't be quite as good.
I guess the logic is, people who want 110mm can use the 120mm, but people who actually need the 120mm can't use the 110mm.
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You're right, I have a fat bike and the bottom bracket size is 103mm and I was thinking I could buy the 100mm HD and just leave off the outer black ring, but I just got an email back from Scott at Luna Cycle and he said that the 100mm definately wouldn't work. The 120mm HD kit is the way to go, there will be more play room and I can build it up with spacers.Last edited by Downshift100; 09-01-2018, 05:23 PM.
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Another 10mm isn't enough to bother me. I put the 100mm BBSHD on my fat bike with 100mm BB and after spacing it so that the secondary reduction gear housing is just barely clearing the chainstay (190mm rear), there was barely enough threads to secure it in the BB. Enough, but barely.
I was looking at it thinking that if I had gone with the 120mm.... What's the big deal? Another 20mm on the left? So what? It would have actually made the crank better centered and as it is I'm considering a crank with more offset for the left hand side....
If I had to do it over I'd go with the larger one. Next build I will. 20mm just isn't that much even if the 100mm would cut it.
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Originally posted by Downshift100 View PostIt would be nice if we could find someone that sells the 110mm BBSHD kit.......looks like that would work for a bunch of people.
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It would be nice if we could find someone that sells the 110mm BBSHD kit.......looks like that would work for a bunch of people.
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Sorry - No.
I'm new and still learning. I was going to do a Bullseye Monster, but decided on going cheap and ended up with a Walgoose Hitch fatty. I figure for $200 I can learn and move the BBSHD to another bike, if wanted. None of it seems difficult. Getting a good chainline and clearing the chainstays seem to be the main issues. Since my BB is 103mm, I would like to get the 110mm version of the BBSHD, but it is by far the most difficult width to find. The advantage to the 120mm model is it will allow more adjustment for clearance and centering since the motors are offset toward the drive side (crank is closer to the frame on non-drive side). Good luck (to both of us)!
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I did find that list today...Not sure there is a build I found on there yet that I feel comfortable jumping on ! Any recommendations from what you have done?
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Originally posted by Hap View PostI am very interested in doing this build..So am following. Since the original OP started is there different pieces that would work better. I am concerned with chain alignment and general irritants of the final build?
I am a very new NOOb to this hobby. Just sold my Monster ltd peddle machine. Thought I was going to buy a Rad Rover but am not opposed to this project if it is quite straight forward and final result is reliable and solid. I am going to use for flat dirt and pave roads and occasional two track roads/trails.
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I am very interested in doing this build..So am following. Since the original OP started is there different pieces that would work better. I am concerned with chain alignment and general irritants of the final build?
I am a very new NOOb to this hobby. Just sold my Monster ltd peddle machine. Thought I was going to buy a Rad Rover but am not opposed to this project if it is quite straight forward and final result is reliable and solid. I am going to use for flat dirt and pave roads and occasional two track roads/trails.
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I'm talking out my ass because I don't have this frame or even 100mm BBSHD currently available to check spindle thread width. But, I think 3mm wouldn't be that much of a problem? Can somebody confirm there's a few mm threads to deal with couple mm one way or the other? The improved chain line be worth figuring this out?
If you go with the 120mm HD order an extra spacer kit because the included spacers only amount to about 10mm.
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ykick......the bottom bracket on this bike is 103mm, so might have to use 120 kit.Last edited by Downshift100; 09-06-2018, 04:48 PM.
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I just ordered the same bike and I am now in the planning stage. Any advice now that you've had yours in operation for a while? Any changes you would have made? Thanks
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