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DIY Build: 30-mile, 30 MPH Full-suspension Daily Driver (BBSHD + 2011 Focus Superbud)

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    DIY Build: 30-mile, 30 MPH Full-suspension Daily Driver (BBSHD + 2011 Focus Superbud)

    Hello, I've been lurking here for a while but this is my first post. After several friends and family kept asking about the bike I built, I decided to post here in hopes that it would not only help them, but this amazing community of DIY builders as well. Before we get into the details, here's a quick picture of the final product.

    I’ve been commuting 13 miles to and from work for about three years. While it’s great exercise, it can take over an hour with traffic lights, showering, changing clothes, etc. I noticed myself driving more to try to save time or give my body a rest, but driving in Silicon Valley rush hour traffic is rarely much faster than cycling, and I always get to work feeling a little grumpy that I missed the time outdoors and the feeling of freedom that a bike gives me.

    I was considering small scooters or motorcycles, but didn't want another gasoline-powered vehicle, and wanted to avoid insurance and registration fees. Recently, a coworker opened my eyes to the world of electric bikes. I figured that with the power and speed of an electric bike, I could keep up with the flow of car traffic and hit more green lights, wear regular clothes, and avoid arriving at the office a sweaty mess. After looking at a few commercially available e-bikes, I discovered Luna Cycle and decided to go the DIY route so I could get more power, a better battery, and build the bike exactly how I wanted—all for less than an off-the-rack e-bike.

    For the bike to become a convenient, reliable, and safe daily driver, I wanted something with the following features:
    • Range: 30 to 35 Miles. With a 26-mile commute, I wanted enough range to go round-trip so that I only had to charge once a day (at work, to save a little on my electric bill). I also wanted some extra capacity in case I needed to make a detour, run an errand after work, or push the speed/power limits now and then.
    • Speed and Power: Accelerate quickly and sustain 29+ MPH without much pedaling effort. 29 MPH is the legal limit for a pedal-assist e-bike in California, so I wanted a bike that could reach those speeds quickly and sustain them without much effort from me.
    • Cargo Room: I need to be able to carry my lunch, computer, basic bike repair tools, spare tube, and a few other things.
    • Safety: Since I’m riding fast, I need to be able stop fast. The bike also needed to handle well at high speeds and turn safely.
    • Durability: I wanted a well-built motor that would last for years of daily riding, a battery with a long lifespan, and a bike frame and components that wouldn’t wear too quickly.
    • Comfort: I wanted an upright riding position similar to a small “cafe racer” motorcycle. I didn’t want to lean forward like a sport bike, or lean back like a cruiser.
    • Cost: My goal was to stay under $3,000, and ideally under $2,500.

    Parts and Purchase Decisions
    One of the first challenges I noticed in going the DIY route is the number of different options for donor bikes, motor kits, and batteries. From my basic research, I knew I wanted a mid-drive kit like the BBSHD or BBS02 for the speed and power they offer, so I decided to start my shopping by choosing the type of bike, and then purchase the specific motor and battery that would work best with that bike.

    The Donor Bike

    I’m lucky to live in an area with tons of great bikes on Craigslist, so I decided to shop for used bikes rather than purchase a new one. Through my research, I learned that for high-speed riding, I’d need either a full-suspension bike or a fat bike to ensure I had enough traction and shock absorption to stay on the road and have a comfortable ride.

    The pros of a fat bike are lower cost, fewer moving parts, better handling on loose gravel, sand, snow, etc., plenty of space to mount a battery and cargo rack, and a unique burly aesthetic. The cons are less shock absorption over big bumps, more expensive tires and tubes, they’re a little harder to lock to some bike racks, and there aren’t as many Craigslist in my area.

    The pros of a full-suspension mountain bike are more shock absorption, a more compact footprint, (generally) higher-end brakes and gears, less rolling resistance on pavement, faster acceleration, and cheaper replacement tires and tubes. The cons are you have to maintain two shocks, and batteries and racks can be more difficult to mount.

    My commute is all on paved but bumpy roads, and I occasionally have to lock my bike to very crowded racks, so I decided to go with a full-suspension mountain bike. After a few days of poking around on Craigslist, I decided on a 2010 Focus Superbud for $1,000.

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    The bike was in excellent condition with upgraded drivetrain and handlebars, brand new brakes with big rotors, and some decent pedals, which weren’t pictured in the ad. I new that I wouldn’t need the front crankset or derailleur, but figured I could sell them to lower my cost.

    When I went to pick up the bike, the seller apologized that the front derailleur needed to be adjusted, and offered to take $100 off so I could get a tuneup. I smiled and accepted his offer, and didn’t mention that I would be stripping the bike of the components that needed to be adjusted. I was able to sell the crankset for $160, so between that and the $100 discount, my $1,000 bike ended up costing $740 (and I just listed the derailleur and shifter for $50, which could take the cost to $690!).

    Summary: I chose a full-suspension mountain bike with big disc breaks so that I’d have great handling, a comfy ride, and plenty of stopping power. Full-suspension frames can be harder to mount batteries to, so be prepared to spend a little more time finding the right battery and mounting solution. Finally, look for bikes that have components you could resell, which can reduce your total cost.

    The Motor Kit
    Thanks to all the great information on the internet, I quickly learned that the Bafang mid-drive kits provided the best overall quality and value. The big decision was whether to get the BBS02 (750 watt) or the BBSHD (1000 watt). I liked the smaller size and slightly lower price of the BBS02. I also thought that having a 750-watt (nominal) motor might be safer for complying with the letter of the California E-bike laws, where 750 watts is the maximum you’re allowed to ride.

    However, I learned that the BBSHD could be computer-limited to 750 watts, and I liked that the extra power would mean I wasn’t “maxing out” the motor when riding at high speeds. I had also read a few claims that the motor was built to be more durable. For a relatively small difference in price, I thought those features outweighed the risks of using a (nominally) “illegal” motor. But of course, check with your local laws before making your own buying decision.

    Besides price, there’s one other reason you might choose a BBS02 over the ‘HD, and that is if you are trying to eek out every last bit of range you can. I expect the lighter weight and lower power consumption would both help your battery take you a little farther. For me, I knew I’d still have enough range with the HD, and I liked the added piece of mind of having a potentially more durable motor.

    Summary: I chose a BBSHD for more power and durability. Choose a BBS02 for lower cost, potentially longer range, or if your local laws require it.

    Motor Kit Upgrades
    Luna Cycle provides a lot of upgrade options when you purchase your kit. Many will come down to personal preference (like twist throttle vs thumb throttle), but there are a few I feel are worth mentioning.
    • Chainring: I wasn’t convinced that the weight savings of the upgraded chainring would be worth it, and I also thought I’d like the extra torque that comes with the stock 46T chainring. However I’m now looking to upgrade to the 42T Eclipse or Bling Ring. Not only is my chain a little too short for the 46T, but the gears with the best chainline (the middle gears) are also too aggressive for certain conditions. I’d rather have the motor spinning little faster (for efficiency) and have better control over my speed when in the gears with the optimal chainline (which helps the gears and chain last longer, and makes less noise). The weight savings will be a nice bonus too.
    • Display: I upgraded to the Luna Full Color Display because it’s easier to read in the dark and in bright sunlight (the two times I ride the most). It seems to give better voltage readings from 52v batteries, and has a nice easy to read clock. It also has a nice passcode lock feature so that people can’t turn on and fiddle with the electronics when you’re not there Finally, I read a couple reviews saying it was the easiest to control and program of any Bafang display they’d used, and that sounded nice. For $45, it was an easy decision.
    • Brake Cutoff Sensors: If you have disc brakes or prefer your own levers, you won’t use the included Bafang Handles with cutoff. You can certainly ride (if you’re careful) without any cutoff sensors, because the motor will cut off when you stop pedaling or pedal backwards. However, for $15, you can get the magnetic sensors and have a safer ride. They were out of stock when I bought my kit, but I plan to order a set soon.
    • GearSensor: The GearSensor will make shifting a lot easier and more reliable because you don’t have to manually stop the motor before shifting. If you shift while the motor is on, it can cause your chain to come off and puts extra stress on the chain and derailleur. Just like the brake sensors, I didn’t get the GearSensor with my kit, but now that I’ve been riding for a few months I definitely see how they would improve my enjoyment of my rides.
    The number of cell types, voltages, capacities, sizes, shapes, and cases available made choosing the right battery the hardest part of my shopping.

    I really admired the Shark and Dolphin packs for how elegant they are. They’re easy to mount, you can lock them to the frame with a key, they look good on the bike, and they’re very durable. I also liked that I could easily take the battery out for charging in my office. Unfortunately, after measuring the space available in my bike frame, I found that both the Shark and Dolphin would be very tricky to mount, and I might not be able to get the battery off the mounting plate. I also considered a Slim Line rear pack, but I wasn’t sure if I’d have a cargo rack to mount it on, and I also wanted to keep the center of gravity lower if I could.

    Ultimately I decided to look at triangle-shaped batteries that would fit in the frame. While many triangle batteries are large and don’t fit in a full-suspension frame, my frame had a big enough opening to fit a small one. I also had enough room to squish the Luna Cycle Triangle Battery Bag into place. I figured I could try that for a while until I was really satisfied with my setup, and then build a custom case that fits the frame better.

    Now the trickier part was deciding on the right cell type, capacity, and voltage. I read quite a few articles on the subject and most suggested a 52v pack, so that as the battery drains and the power starts to dip, you’ll still be getting 46 to 48 volts. Since I wanted to go fast and also run the battery down pretty low every day, 52v made sense.

    Once I had a voltage and shape picked out, I had to choose the cell type. Luna’s descriptions lead me to the GA cell, which offers a very high capacity, but also great power output even when the cells are nearly drained. Like the choice to go with 52v, the GA cell meant I could run at fairly high speeds for most of the charge. By comparison, some of the other cell types start out very powerful, but the power quickly drops as the battery drains, or they have a long range, but lower power.

    Next was capacity (amp hours). I didn’t want to obsess over the perfect size, but I also didn’t want to over or under-buy. The article at offered a simple rule of thumb of “20 watt hours per mile”. I found a battery with 14.5ah, which at 52v is 754 watt-hours, or roughly 36 miles if I’m careful about energy usage. This meant I could ride a little aggressively and have enough juice for my 26-mile round trip, or ride more gingerly and have enough extra for a detour.

    Summary: I chose a 52v Triangle Panasonic GA 18650 14ah battery pack for it’s power, range, and ability to maintain high power for most of the range.

    Chargers can range from $30 to over $300. I wanted a durable and reliable charger that wouldn’t burn my house down, but didn’t want to spend a fortune. The battery management system in my battery handles a lot of the same cell-conditioning work that high-end chargers do, and since I don’t keep the battery fully-charged for more than a few hours, I didn’t need a charger that allows you to only charge to 80 or 90%. I chose the Luna Cycles 52v 3amp Lithium Smart Charger, which offers great quality at a reasonable price.

    Cargo Rack and Bags
    I bought a Thule rack that’s designed for bikes with rear suspensions, but the mounting system wouldn’t work because I have a brake line running down the frame where one of the mounting brackets is supposed to go. I returned the rack and I’m using a backpack for now while I shop for a different rack.

    (continued below)
    Attached Files

    Building the Bike
    I spent about eight hours over three days, which included removing the old crankset and front derailleur, installing the motor kit and battery, and managing the cables for a cleaner look. Now that I know what I’m doing, I could probably finish a similar job in under 3 hours.

    Step 1 - Remove the Crankset and Front Derailleur
    The crankset on my bike uses the Shimano Hollowtech II system, which is extremely easy to remove with four tools:
    • The Luna Bafang wrench, which you’ll need to install the motor
    • A 5mm allen wrench.
    • A $5 crank-arm/cap tool (Shimano model TL-FC16).
    • A small flathead screwdriver.
    Park Tool has a great video on YouTube ( shows the removal process, but here’s a quick summary:
    1. Remove the pedals with a pedal wrench or allen wrench (hex key). With either method, remember that you loosen both pedals by turning the wrench toward the back of the bike (one side will be the opposite of how you’d normally loosen something threaded).
    2. Take off the chain. This is only necessary to remove the front derailleur. If you don’t have one, you could keep the chain on if you don’t mind it being in the way during the install. Depending on the type of chain, you might need some special tools. You could also have a bike shop do it for you if you’re unsure.
    3. Using your $5 crank-arm tool, remove the black crank-arm cap that’s in the middle of the chainring.
    4. Use the 5mm allen wrench to loosen the two bolts on the crank arm.
    5. With a small flat-head screwdriver, push the locking plate away from the crank arm.
    6. Pull the crank assembly out of the bottom bracket.
    7. Use the Luna Bafang wrench to loosen and remove the bottom bracket.
    With the crankset and chain out of the way, you can remove the derailleur, shifter, and shift cable with an allen wrench. If you purchased a used bike, this is a great time to give it a good wash since you can reach some of the harder-to-reach areas. Just be sure to keep water out of the bottom bracket housing.

    Step 2 - Install the Motor
    First, I cleaned a little dirt out of the bottom bracket and threads, and then inserted the motor into the frame. It took a little while to find the right combination of spacers to ensure that the motor was securely mounted, but the kit included everything I needed.

    Once you have the motor in place, use the Luna Bafang wrench to crank it down hard! I was too worried about over tightening the lock ring the first time, and I’ve since had to remove a crank arm tighten it the motor again. If you ride with a loose motor, you can grind into the metal face of the bottom bracket, which is not good for the frame.

    Next, install the chain ring and crank arms and make sure all the bolts are tight. You could put the chain back on now, but I found it easier to work with the wires without the chain in the way.

    Step 3 - Install the Controls, Sensors, and Display
    The cabling may seem intimidating just because there are so many different connectors that all look about the same. However, they’re different enough that you won’t mix them up if you look closely and take your time. Since this was my first build and I wanted to make sure everything was working right, I didn’t fasten any cables to the frame until after I took a test run. Then I spent some time finding the best routes and fastening them down for a clean look.

    Speed Sensor
    1. Fasten the magnet to your spokes, but don’t tighten it down yet. That way, you can make some fine adjustments once the sensor is installed.
    2. Find a place on the chain stay (the bottom tube in the triangle that holds the rear wheel) where you can mount the sensor. Make sure the magnet can pass close by without the spokes, wheel, or rotor hitting the sensor.
    3. Once you find a good fit, peel the backing off the sensor mount and stick it in place. Secure it with a couple of zip ties, and then put the sensor into the mount. If you want to twist the sensor cable around the frame, do so before it’s in the mount.
    4. Tighten the magnet at the point on the spokes where it runs closest to the sensor, and double-check that everything is secure.

    Brake Levers, Display, Buttons, and Throttle

    To install the display, buttons, and throttle in the “cockpit”, you might need to remove the grips on your handlebars.
    1. If you’re changing the brake levers to the ones the came with your kit, install those first.
    2. Mount the display on the handlebars in a place where it’s easy to see. I mounted mine right in the middle of the handlebars over the stem.
    3. Mount the button panel somewhere where you can reach it while holding the handlebar grips. I chose the left side because there’s no shifter on the left, and because the cable runs toward the right. If you mount the buttons on the right, either the cable will stick out away from the center of the bike, or the up/down buttons will be upside down.
    4. Mount the throttle in the same manner as the buttons. I would have preferred the right side, but the shifter was in the way, so I mounted it on the left.
    5. Sit on or stand over your bike and make sure you’re comfortable with the position of all the controls. Make adjustments if needed, and then re-install your handlebar grips.
    Other Sensors
    If you’re using the ShiftSensor, install it on the rear shift cable. If you’re using the magnetic brake cutoffs, install those on the brake levers.

    Step 4 - Run the Cockpit and Sensor Cables
    The length of the cables and number of connectors give a good clue about which ones go where. I started by connecting the cockpit controls to the main cable. This took about 90 minutes because I really fussed to make them look clean. Make sure to try turning the handlebars all the way to each side and check if any of the cables are getting pulled as you do. I found that running the cables near the brake and shift lines was a good start, but I still needed to make some adjustments.

    If, like me, you’re not using the e-brake cutoffs or the ShiftSensor, you can leave the black plastic caps on and tuck them out of the way. I live in a dry climate and might want to use those connectors some day, so I didn’t find it necessary to tape or caulk them shut. But if you plan to ride in wet conditions, you’ll want to do something to keep the water out.

    At this point, I didn’t have a battery, so I didn’t run the cable to the battery.

    Step 5 - Install the Battery

    -Match the Battery and Controller Connectors-
    First, you’ll need to make sure the motor and battery use the same type of connector. My Luna battery came with an XT90 installed, along with an XT90 “pigtail” that I could use to replace the BBSHD’s connector. I followed Luna Cycle’s guide to Matching Connectors from Battery to Controller ( and had the new connector installed in no time. I was able to get the shrink tubing and crimps from Home Depot for under $7, used a pair of wire crimpers I already owned, and carefully shrunk the tubing with a cheap Bic lighter.

    The BBSHD comes with a pigtail for the kind of connector it uses, but you should really use the XT90. It’s a better quality connector and you won’t have to work on wires that are connected to a live battery, which can be very dangerous.

    -Mount the Battery-
    I opted to use the Luna Cycle triangle frame pack to hold my battery. For $20, it’s a simple and easy way to get started.
    1. If you have screws in the frame for mounting a water bottle, remove them so they don’t dig into the bag.
    2. Use the included zip ties (or velcro, if you got the velcro version of the bag) to mount the bag to the frame. Run your zip ties under cables and brake lines, so you don’t put any undue strain on them.
    3. Set the battery into the frame back, and use the velcro straps to secure it in place. You may want to lay the bike on its side or have someone hold the battery while you strap it in.
    For my bike and battery, I needed to keep the battery toward the front of the bike so it wouldn’t rub against the rear shock. I folded up an old bike tire tube and stuck it in the bottom of the frame pack to help support the battery in the right position.

    -Run the Cable from the Motor to The Battery-
    This is another time where you could spend a while fiddling with just the right placement of the cables. But for now, just get everything good enough to go on a test ride without the cables getting in your way.

    -Perform a “Bench Test”-
    Now you’re finally ready to turn on the bike for the first time and perform a basic test.
    1. Make sure your battery has a charge, plug it in to the motor, and turn on the power. If your bike doesn’t turn on, don’t panic. Check all of your connections, double check that your battery is charged, and try again. If you’re still staring at a bike with no power, it’s time to get troubleshooting. Use the many resources available on the forums, or call for technical support if you think you have a defective part.
    2. If your bike turns on, congratulations! Take a moment to revel in the glory of a job well done (or at least almost done).
    3. Check that nothing’s near the chainring that you wouldn’t put next to a spinning saw blade—especially fingers, toes, pets, or children.
    4. If you’ve been following along, you still don’t have a chain on the bike, but if you do, either remove it or prop the rear wheel off the ground.
    5. Push or twist the throttle and see if the motor turns on. If yes, congratulations. If not, time for some troubleshooting.
    Step 6 - Install the Chain and Adjust the Derailleur
    Run the chain through the derailleur and around the chainring. If you’re not sure you’ve got it right, there are plenty of great YouTube videos. Depending on the type of chain, you may need some special tools to connect the two ends. If you’re unsure how to do this, visit your local bike shop or check the internet for more details. I used a KMS chain, which has a “master link” you can open and close with just a pair of pliers or even your fingers if you’re strong enough.

    Depending on how big the Bafang chainring is compared to the one your bike had before, you might end up with a chain that’s too short or too long. If it’s too short, you’ll notice the derailleur hanger pulls really far down or toward the front of the bike. With the tension that the motor will put on the chain, this can actually cause the derailleur to bend or break. You’ll need to add a few links to the chain, purchase a new one, or try a smaller front chainring.

    If the chain is too long, you’ll notice the derailleur folds up to take the slack out of the chain. However, if there’s still slack, the chain will fall off very easily. You’ll want to take a few links out of the chain or purchase a new, shorter one.

    Once you have a chain that’s the right length, run through the gears (with the motor off) and make sure you can shift cleanly and that the derailleur doesn’t rub on the chain while you’re in gear. If you need to make adjustments, there are some great videos on YouTube that will show you how. If you’ve made it this far, adjusting a rear derailleur will feel very easy.

    Step 7 - Go for a Test Ride
    Before you set off on a long ride, please go for a couple of test rides to ensure that everything is working and that all the parts are tightened properly. If you like your brain, always wear a helmet, even on test rides. It’s very unlikely, but if your controller ever malfunctions or your brakes quit, you could end up going much faster than you plan, and a crash could leave you with a very tragic injury.

    Once you have your helmet on and you’re ready to ride:
    1. Try riding with the throttle only and at a pretty slow speed. Start and stop a few times to make sure your breaks are working too!
    2. Set your pedal assist to the lowest setting and do a few more start-stop rides.
    3. Head back to the garage and check the tightness of all the bolts again.
    4. If everything’s working, repeat steps 1–3 at faster speeds and over longer distances.
    5. Once you’re confident that everything is safe, you’re done!
    Step 8 - New Tires
    The bike I purchased came with knobby mountain bike tires, which are very noisy on the road. They’re also slower and have less traction than road tires. I swapped the mountain tires for Schwalbe Big Ben HS, which are nice and cushy, durable, rated for high-speed ebikes, and have reflective stripes for riding at night.

    Step 9 - Professional Tuneup
    After riding for a week or two to “break in” the new components, I took the bike for a professional tuneup. The mechanic was happy to work on an electric bike (at least the non-electric parts of it), and had a lot of questions about how I liked it. He adjusted the brakes and suspension and gave everything a once-over, which gave me a lot of confidence in riding every day.

    (continued below)



      First Impressions and Ride Report
      I’ve been commuting on my new e-bike most days of the week for almost two months. It’s an absolute blast, and thanks to the bike lanes, I don’t have to sit in long lines of car traffic. I love the fresh air, the view, the easy pedaling, and knowing that I’m not burning a hole in the ozone layer. I’m saving gas, keeping the miles off my car, and (unlike my non-electric bike) arriving to work without needing to shower or change. There are still days where I ride my pedal bike for the exercise when I have the time, but the e-bike has taken over as my primary ride.

      Most days, I can get to work or home in about 38 minutes, compared to nearly an hour in the car. My record (hitting more green lights than usual) was 32 minutes, and my longest trip (hitting every red light) was 51. I’ve had no problem doing the round trip on a single charge with a little juice still left in the battery, and I cruise about 26-30 MPH with minimal pedal effort.

      So far, my only word of caution would be that a lot of drivers don’t expect a bike to be moving as fast you can on an electric bike. Keep your eyes out for car drivers turning or pulling out in front of you, slow down near blind driveways or intersections, and consider reflective clothing or lights even in the daytime. You should also be kind to other cyclists and give them extra space when passing because you will startle them if you pass too close.

      Regarding charing at work, I’ve had to get creative with where I store my bike while it’s charging. I take my bike into the office because the battery isn’t easily removable, and the bike rack in our parking garage doesn’t have any outlets. Some of my co-workers were bothered by the fan noise from the charger, but my e-bike–riding coworker was able to find a vacant office to charge his bike and mine. We’re also working with the building staff to get some outlets installed in the parking garage.

      Next Steps
      Overall I’m very happy with my bike but there are a couple of things I’d like to change over time.

      Cargo Rack
      I bought a Thule Pack ’n Pedal Tour Rack, but it didn’t work with my bike because there’s a brake line and derailleur cable on the frame in the spot where the mounting brackets would go. I returned it and I’m currently looking at some other racks that work with full-suspension bikes. In the meantime I’m carrying my belongings in a backpack, but I can’t wait to have panniers like I do on my non-electric bike.

      Softer Seat
      The seat that came with the bike is pretty hard. It would be fine if you’re wearing padded bike shorts, but since I’m riding in regular shorts or jeans most days, I’d like to get a softer seat.

      GearSensor and Brake Cutoff Sensor
      As I mentioned before, now that I’ve spent some time riding without either of these sensors, I can see that they’d make the bike feel more “finished” and a little easier to control.

      Permanent Lighting System
      I have USB-chargeable lights that strap to the frame, but I’d much rather use something that taps into the battery so I don’t have to take them off to charge every day.

      A small bluetooth speaker would be a fun addition so I could listen to music or podcasts without an earbud.

      My ebike has completely changed how I feel about my commute. For about the price of an old junker car or a used scooter, I’m able to enjoy the fresh air and sunshine, avoid feeling stuck in traffic, get a little bit of exercise, and do my part to conserve fossil fuels—and I don’t have to pay for insurance, registration, or smog checks. In an area with such great weather and terrible traffic, it’s really a no brainer to commute by ebike.

      My total cost so far is $2301.75, which will go up by a few hundred dollars once I buy the extra items listed above. Here's a breakdown of the costs.

      With just a little bit of mechanical skill, the ability to follow directions, and a few tools, you can build a high-powered, long range, durable, and safe e-bike for a very reasonable price. If you’re thinking of getting into the world of ebikes but you still have doubts, just take a quick test ride and I guarantee you’ll be hooked. If you can’t find one to test ride, please take my word for it. They’re a blast and you won’t regret it!

      (the end)


        Nice write-up sir. Great details. I love stories of getting work actually faster than a car. Almost makes you want to keep it our secret so that the bike lanes don't get too busy!


          For your panniers rack option - check out the Topeak beam rack with dual pannier frame. Thought i had a picture but cant find it- the rack mounts to your seatpost with a quick release as well they make a pannier bag that slides on and off with ease. i have really liked it but the down side is it has a 20lb weight limit- has not been a problem for me but i dont carry a computer/ laptop


            I have a similar build on a giant anthem 29er. For a rear rack the only one that really works well with full sus bikes is the Thule Pack N Pedal in the current market. It attaches rather securely to the seat stays so it moves with the rear triangle as per your suspensions response.