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E-bike conversion for dummies: Electra Townie with Luna Cycle's BBSHD kit

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  • 1FastAMG
    commented on 's reply
    Where are you and the OP mounting your controller? All the kits I've seen have a controller that people put in a bag or something. I dont see that on ours or his?

    Also how do you feel about the gearing? i was going to go 2 smaller in front as i feel the 1st gear is already waaayyy low and by going down 2 in the front it will increase the top speed also

  • AndyZ
    replied
    Hi guys. I have a 2018 Townie 7D and after reading this thread I tried to see if the BBSHD would fit inside the frame. I can tell you with certainty that it does not fit, and it is not a simple matter of denting the frame :(.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20190101_180014.jpg Views:	2 Size:	2.01 MB ID:	80665
    Last edited by AndyZ; 01-03-2019, 04:33 PM.

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  • dwahunt
    replied
    One final thought. I have not connected the torque sensor, which is less necessary for the street riding that I do, but will at some point.

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  • dwahunt
    commented on 's reply
    My Townie conversion began with a 7 speed IGH that came with the bike. I discovered, much to the dismay of my finances, that the rear coast brake that came stock on the bike would not work. This solution was a new rear, 8 speed hub--8 being better than 7 from the standpoint of hub strength with a mid drive motor, I had read--with a roller brake. My lack of knowledge on the front end regarding this issue cost me app $570, so...Once that matter was resolved, the conversion was pretty straight forward. I am awaiting delivery of a Kinnect suspension post and am researching possible front supension, but otherwise the project, my first e-conversion with a steep and costly learning curve, has turned out great. I feel like I could do a conversion now, esp. since buying the convenient tools for doing so, in two or less hours. Hope that helps some and, as well, that you can somehow avoid the rear brake issue. dh

  • calfee20
    replied
    I just went back over this thread and I stand by what I said in post number 6.

    Hey when the BB is apart it will be easy to see if you can slip a BBSHD inside.
    Last edited by calfee20; 11-27-2017, 01:28 PM.

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  • calfee20
    replied
    Originally posted by pacname50 View Post
    Greetings g725s, calfee20 and anyone else that has experience or opinions on building a Townie 7D with the BBSHD kit.
    All of the posts above were a year ago - late 2016. I ended up having to have spine surgery which has kept me off any bike for a year. So, I put off building my Townie 7D with the BBSHD kit until now ( Nov. 2017). Now I am ready and just purchased all the necessary kit parts from Luna. Any update thoughts or pictures on putting the motor on the inside of the frame bracket since I last posted? pacname50
    The first thing we have to clear up is whether you have a Townie or a Cruiser. You can do an inside the frame job on the Cruiser but probability not on the Townie.

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  • pacname50
    replied
    Greetings g725s, calfee20 and anyone else that has experience or opinions on building a Townie 7D with the BBSHD kit.
    All of the posts above were a year ago - late 2016. I ended up having to have spine surgery which has kept me off any bike for a year. So, I put off building my Townie 7D with the BBSHD kit until now ( Nov. 2017). Now I am ready and just purchased all the necessary kit parts from Luna. Any update thoughts or pictures on putting the motor on the inside of the frame bracket since I last posted? pacname50

    Leave a comment:


  • g725s
    commented on 's reply
    Yeah they obviously made the housings different so you can install that anti-rotation washer because of a larger BB.. My tab, is just that, a 1/4" tab with no ridge behind it. Yours has some meat to it, and a ridge that extends all the way to where it separates from the motor.

  • calfee20
    commented on 's reply
    Mmmm do you think that will make a difference? I thought that they just make that shaft longer. Yes I have the 100mm version

  • g725s
    commented on 's reply
    You missed my Edit. I have the smallest 68-73mm BBSHD, yours is the 73-100mm version right? As my tab is way further back where the housing cover separates.
    Last edited by g725s; 12-01-2016, 07:59 PM.

  • g725s
    commented on 's reply
    Awesome. Start now to polish up your ball-peen hammer or bend your frame with a clamp like Calfee20. And as Calfee20 unequivocally suggested below (LOL) prepare to completely disassemble your BBSHD ;-) LOL I mean you have to completely outdo what has been done before with this type of install, right? LOL Can't wait to see what you come up with :-) Of course you know I'm just kidding... Personally installing the BBSHD up front below the downtube is totally fine since it does not mess with ground clearance at all.

  • calfee20
    commented on 's reply
    I find all of this interesting. I bought mine the last couple of days in May. When did you get yours and I wonder what a new unit will be like?

  • g725s
    replied
    Originally posted by calfee20 View Post
    This is something I would do but hesitate to suggest it. All that housing does is cover the armature, stator, and support the bearing for the non drive side of the armature. There is no grease or oil in there so if you carefully removed the housing that interfering tab would be out of the way. You could slide the motor into the BB and then reinstall the housing. This whole thing would probably work better with the bike laying on its' right side but propped up on something. When the housing is off care must be taken with absolute cleanliness and not allowing the armature to fall out.

    Here is a photo that shows that tab better and routing the wires underneath may not work any more.
    [Picture]

    There is also the possibility that the rear tab will clear the rear tube before the front bulge hits the downtube. That would be nice. Insert rotate to the rear and insert the rest of the way but that would be to good to be true..................calfee
    That is great idea, and an EXCELLENT SUGGESTION (LOL) to remove the housing.

    But I got to say that your tab is completely different than mine. They must have designed a different housing, as the tab on mine is 1/3 the thickness of the one on your BBSHD. Mine is like maybe 1/4" thick, probably more like 3/16" thick. Look at my ATTACHMENT picture above and you can also see the sharp corners where yours is rounded.

    Edit: I know why. You've got a larger BBSHD. Mine is the 68-73mm version.
    Last edited by g725s; 12-01-2016, 07:55 PM.

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  • calfee20
    replied
    Originally posted by g725s View Post

    Calfee20, just to make sure we are talking about the same thing here. I see no reason at all to have that one Hex Screw for the anti-rotation / anti-wobble washer in this case. If you mount the BBSHD inside a triangle where it will rest against the frame, it just wont rotate.

    Below the red circled tab is the one I'm talking about removing completely. If you take that one off you could slide the BBSHD in with at least 3/8" more clearance.

    In this picture below the BBSHD is resting on the seatpost, not the frame tube behind the BB. There is a gap under the BBSHD of nearly 3/8" becuse the BBSHD cannot rotate further back because it is resting on the seatpost.

    As looking at this picture if you could rotate the BBSHD clockwise 3/8" that would give a bit more clearance at the front of the BBSHD and the downtube. Does that make sense?

    I guess those 2 Hex Screws also remedy wobble of the BBSHD inside the BB, but you could make sure it is tight inside the BB and you'll still be able to use one of the screws (the one that screws into the motor housing, the blue circle).

    I'm not saying it will fit on the 7D, but it is worth considering, as that one screw (red circle) for the anti-rotation washer is not needed in this case. Also click on the attachment picture below to get a better view of the tab that the one Hex Screw goes into. [ATTACH=CONFIG]n23213[/ATTACH]
    I just went into my shed with a flashlight to look at the left side of the bike and I see what you are talking about. I agree if that tab were removed you could rotate the motor more and possibly slide it right on.

    Having said that I would like to add that I don't like removing anything. Now we can get into the fringe or strange installation procedures. This is something I would do but hesitate to suggest it. All that housing does is cover the armature, stator, and support the bearing for the non drive side of the armature. There is no grease or oil in there so if you carefully removed the housing that interfering tab would be out of the way. You could slide the motor into the BB and then reinstall the housing. This whole thing would probably work better with the bike laying on its' right side but propped up on something. When the housing is off care must be taken with absolute cleanliness and not allowing the armature to fall out.

    Here is a photo that shows that tab better and routing the wires underneath may not work any more.
    Click image for larger version

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    There is also the possibility that the rear tab will clear the rear tube before the front bulge hits the downtube. That would be nice. Insert rotate to the rear and insert the rest of the way but that would be to good to be true..................calfee

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  • pacname50
    replied
    You guys are great! Thanks g725s and calfee20 for the pictures and detailed discussion. My brother and I are planning to do the build of the 2013 Electra Townie 7D together in January. I will definitely post a thread of the build as we make progress. We are really lucky to live on the West Coast of Florida where riding in the winter is actually better than the summers.
    Thanks again.

    Leave a comment:

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