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BBSHD on an Electra Cruiser Lux Fat Tire 7D

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  • BBSHD on an Electra Cruiser Lux Fat Tire 7D

    When I first decided to build an ebike I wanted to use an Electra Fat cruiser but I had never seen one in the flesh. Cruisers are not as common here as they might be in other areas. I found a 2015 Electra Coaster 7 used and slightly damaged and built on that. http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...lectra-cruiser

    I am 6' 4" with long legs and want a bigger bike. I called Electra to get frame dimensions on a few of their bikes.

    Cruiser Lux Fat
    Top Tube –--------- 68.0 cm - 26.7 in
    Seat Tube –-------- 51.5 cm - 20.3 in
    Stand Over Height – 84.0 cm - 33.1 in
    Wheel Base –------ 129.5 cm - 51.0 in

    Cruiser Steel Tall
    Top Tube –--------- 73.9 cm - 29.1 in
    Seat Tube –-------- 46.7 cm - 18.4 in
    Stand Over Height – 81.5 cm - 32.1 in
    Wheel Base –------ 123.6 cm - 48.7 in

    Cruiser Lux Regular
    Top Tube –--------- 69.8 cm - 27.5 in
    Seat Tube –-------- 43.0 cm - 16.9 in
    Stand Over Height – 77.4 cm - 30.5 in
    Wheel Base –------ 119.5 cm - 47.1 in

    When I realized how big the Fat cruiser is I knew I had to get one. I called Electra again and found I would have to wait until mid December. Well I ordered one and I am seething with impatience hence this premature build thread.

    Everything I learned from the first build will go into improving this build.
    1- Larger battery placed lower preferably behind the seat tube.
    2- Better brakes, the best I can afford.
    3- More versatile rear drop-outs. Something that will work for any type of drive or rear wheel.
    Click image for larger version

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    This bike already has a good bit of space between the seat tube and the rear tire. What if I could increase the wheelbase by a few inches? Electra's big flat rear dropouts have lots of possibilities.
    Click image for larger version

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    I ordered these stainless sliding dropouts from Paragon Machine Works. I am going to modify these by lengthening the legs so they can be bolted to the inside of my factory dropouts. This will give me room for the battery plus reduce my dropout width from 170mm to 135mm. 135 mm is more common and will give me more rear hub choices. The 170 mm width limits you to factory derailleur, 3spd Sturmey-Archer or an $1800 Rohloff.
    Click image for larger version

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    Here is the stainless piece without the dropout adapter. If the wheel had been removed the dropout could have been moved down to show the proper position. Now I have to decide weather to buy different gas for my Miller MIG and some stainless wire or have someone else weld it for me.

    Well that is all for now. I don't expect this to be done until next year............calfee

  • #2
    That is one sweet ride. I have a regular wheelbase bike and a midtail. I definitely like the longer wheelbase better because I can feel the increased stability.

    Comment


    • calfee20
      calfee20 commented
      Editing a comment
      I wanted the Luna fat cargo bike but they don't seem to have it anymore.

  • #3
    Originally posted by calfee20 View Post
    I wanted the Luna fat cargo bike but they don't seem to have it anymore.
    You can always have a frame builder make you whatever you want.

    Comment


    • #4
      Well my bike is in. I should be picking it up before Christmas.

      Comment


    • #5
      The shop is 30 minutes away. There is another shop close by but I don't like the owner. They changed their lineup on the web. They did away with the 7D Tall which was a steel frame. If you want a big cruiser now it will have to be this one.

      I went to look at it yesterday. I will definitely need handlebars with more pull back. The big question is what to do with my present bike. I feel as though I am not done with it yet. I have found a front suspension fork for it. http://www.bikeman.com/FK8090.html Different tires might be interesting. So do I buy another kit and keep them both going? That is one way to have spare parts and then I will have a bike to ride if I am modifying one of them. I won't be able to afford another kit until July so my regular cruiser will definitely get stripped down this winter...........calfee

      Comment


      • #6
        Originally posted by calfee20 View Post
        I went to look at it yesterday. I will definitely need handlebars with more pull back.
        Do you feel that the handlebar grips are not close enough to the seat? I do.
        I am thinking of doing two things. Getting a stem extension, or possibly even a new longer stem (best), and also turning the stem around backwards.

        I want the grips almost over the crank and about belly button high. That way I could sit up fully upright and my hands would fall on the grips with my arms fully relaxed and elbows bent.

        Comment


        • #7
          Yeah I have thought of turning the stem around but will have to see how it looks. That would be going against years of tradition. The handlebars may be different than my coaster 7.

          Comment


          • #8
            Originally posted by calfee20 View Post
            ...The big question is what to do with my present bike. I feel as though I am not done with it yet. I have found a front suspension fork for it. http://www.bikeman.com/FK8090.html Different tires might be interesting. So do I buy another kit and keep them both going? That is one way to have spare parts and then I will have a bike to ride if I am modifying one of them. I won't be able to afford another kit until July so my regular cruiser will definitely get stripped down this winter...........calfee
            I think you should have at least two bikes because there will come a time when you are doing a repair or refurbishment that will take one out of service for awhile.

            If you only have one bike, you may hesitate to do a lengthy repair on it since doing so would leave you with no functioning bike.

            Comment


            • #9
              Originally posted by calfee20 View Post
              Yeah I have thought of turning the stem around but will have to see how it looks. That would be going against years of tradition. The handlebars may be different than my coaster 7.
              I think Electra just used the stock cruiser handlebars that they've been using for some time. I feel the Lux Fat really could use a redesign of this handlebar as the swept back look of the bars fits this bike.

              The Mini Ape won't really work as I've measured it and actually the stock bars would put the grips same distance from the seat as the Mini Ape.

              And the full size ape just does not seem to fit the style of the Electra, and you would need cable extensions for almost everything attached to the handlebars...
              Attached Files
              Last edited by g725s; 12-18-2016, 07:30 PM.

              Comment


              • calfee20
                calfee20 commented
                Editing a comment
                Wow that guy is tall. Look at how high his seat post is.

              • g725s
                g725s commented
                Editing a comment
                He also has the handlebar stem extended fully. I know, mine is also extended to the max line. You can compare with my pictures.

            • #10
              Originally posted by calfee20 View Post
              The first pictures you posted of the Electra. I think that bike is for sale here in Southern Californa for $425
              http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bik/5930151276.html

              Comment


              • calfee20
                calfee20 commented
                Editing a comment
                good price could be better though

            • #11
              Well the bike is apart and I am starting to work on it. I have never been so undecided about anything in my life as I am about how to set up the rear wheel. The Sturmey-Archer 5spd is a 135mm hub and the bike has 170mm rear dropouts. I bought some sliding dropouts from Paragon Machine Works (see post one) and there were a couple of ways I could have installed them but I decided not to cut up my new bike.

              Here are a couple of photos to illustrate the problem.




              This hub with the drum brake is very wide across the flanges and it will almost center the rim in the frame which will give a very strong wheel build.




              I am going to cut about a 1/4" off the axle and make an axle locknut extension on my lathe to get this IGH installed in this frame. This way I will avoid any holes or slots cut into my frame so if I ever want to I can go back to a stock bike that has not been hacked up.
              Click image for larger version  Name:	chainline.jpg Views:	1 Size:	693.1 KB ID:	27202



              Here is a photo of the chain line with the factory chain wheel and crank arms. This is one reason I decided against the sliding dropouts as they would have pushed my chain line 7mm to the left.

              The major problem with this IGH is probably going to be the lack of parts. The IGH is a very new production model and the sprockets seam to be unique to this hub. It came with a twist shifter, brake cable, nuts, special washers, and an 18 tooth sprocket. I can't find a trigger shifter or any sprockets that are supposed to be available for it. I have not called the US distributer yet though so we will see what next week brings.

              The supplied sprocket with 18 teeth will fall right in with the proper gearing however it is a 1/8" thick sprocket which will require BMX chain. I am not sure how sloppy BMX chain will be on a Luna chain wheel and since I have a Connex 7e8 chain that didn't work out for my present cruiser I will turn this sprocket to 3/32" on my lathe.
              Last edited by calfee20; 02-03-2017, 11:34 PM.

              Comment


              • calfee20
                calfee20 commented
                Editing a comment
                AHHHH spelling error and the edit button is gone!

              • g725s
                g725s commented
                Editing a comment
                Maybe ask a moderator to give you access to edit this post and fix the pictures that don't show up?

            • #12
              I ordered a Weinmann DHL80 rim and some Sondors fenders from Luna. The fenders were preorder and it held up shipment of the rim. This got me to thinking to much and I canceled the order on the Weinmann rim and decided to go with the factory rim. I pulled the rear wheel apart and decided the factory rim sucked so I reordered the Weinmann DHL80 and two different left side throttles from Luna. The factory rim is single wall and all the spoke holes needed deburring while the Weinmann DHL80 is double walled with a single eyelet and 6mm of offset which will help me center the rim.

              I still haven't decided on the spokes. It will be either Sapim strong single butted or Sapim 13 guage. Like I said I have been having trouble making up my mind on every step of this build. Is that old age setting in.............Oh Well............calfee

              Comment


              • #13
                I had a post in this thread that lost a photo so I deleted it and will repair it here so this will be a little off chronologically.

                #10 12-23-2016, 11:40 AM

                Well I picked up the bike in December. I brought it into my workshop and lined it up with my coaster 7 to compare. They aren't that different and I started shaking my head and thinking "I just spent $600 on two fat tires". Well I am into it now so there is no turning back.

                I was going to take a photo with them side by side but it turns into a mass of tubes, bars, and cables and makes a lousy photo.

                First impressions................On Electra's web site they have dropped their tall sizes with steel frames. I think they have replaced them with this bike. Check this sticker.

                Click image for larger version

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                If you go back to the first post of this thread I have a chart of frame dimensions for three Electra cruisers. Well I don't know where they get the top tube measurement from but it is definitely wrong. The top tube on the standard cruiser is a couple of inches shorter, and that just makes sense. Basically everything on the bike is a couple of inches or more bigger.

                The BB height is the same even though the tires are taller. To achieve this they increased the slope of the rear wheel stays from 5 degrees to 9. This is the reason there is less room inside the triangle than on the standard bike. I hope spinningmagnets reads this.

                I ordered a Sturmey-Archer 5 speed yesterday also. It is a RXL-RD5 and I have some SA brake levers coming too.

                Comment


                • #14
                  I'm also considering a Sturmey Archer hub with drum brake (undecided on how many speeds). I don't have any practical experience on the drum brakes, I just like the idea. Would you mind sharing why you chose to go that route?

                  Comment


                  • calfee20
                    calfee20 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I am sorry I did not get right back to you. I had actually started a couple of replies and then erased them. Many times I am afraid of giving poor advice and decide to just shut up. While I am a very good auto/tractor mechanic I have just started this hobby. I have only built ONE wheel, so who am I to give advice.

                    I have a meeting to go to so I will reply later tonight over on your spokes and rims post. It may take several posts to express all of my thoughts...........calfee

                  • theronchaplin
                    theronchaplin commented
                    Editing a comment
                    No worries. And so you know you're already one wheel ahead of me, I haven't built any LOL. I like to hear folks reasoning behind what they do because it helps me make better decisions.

                • #15
                  This is discouraging I am loosing photos all over the place!!!!

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