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BBSHD on an Electra Cruiser Lux Fat Tire 7D

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    #16
    g725s and I have been discussing handlebars and riding position on cruisers. The shop where I bought the bike swapped bars for me with a set that has 4 inches more pull back. I didn't want to spin the quill because I thought it would look bad. I turned the quill around just to see how it looks and I think I like it For some reason it looks like a board track racer now.

    How do you think it looks?............calfee

    Click image for larger version

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    • g725s
      g725s commented
      Editing a comment
      It does not look too bad really. I want to do that plus add a stem extension.

      I don't want the grips parallel to the ground, as when you stop your hands have a tendency to slide forward on the grips.
      I want the grips to also be angled down a bit so that your palms have something to lean into.

      I have been going down a long steep hill doing 25mph+ and since my grips are parallel to the ground my hands want to slide forward on the grips as the only resistance is your hand gripping power, it is not like bracing your palms against an angled grip.

      And if you put your hands out naturally if the grips are parallel and straight out like that you have to bend your hands forward to grab the grips.

    • g725s
      g725s commented
      Editing a comment
      Another option would be to get a quill stem with a shorter extension (stump neck) , so the look of it being backwards would not be so noticeable.

      I was thinking of possibly getting a quill stem with a shorter extension(mostly for the look) and also using a riser https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cromo.../dp/B000AO9ZE8 to have it up higher as I pointed out above I want to angle my grips pointed down a bit.
      Last edited by g725s; 02-13-2017, 05:44 PM.

    #17
    I think it looks cool for sure. My only question would be stability and control?

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    • calfee20
      calfee20 commented
      Editing a comment
      The way it is now the bars are to far back but combining this with different bars will give me just about any grip position I might want. I would like my hands about 4 inches back with my current cruiser. Moving the bars back this way along with shorter bars eases the wire length problem with some of the controls.

    #18
    I ordered the spokes today. I placed the 4mm no turn washer on the inside of the right dropout and this placed the IGH flanges to within 1mm of being symmetrical. Imagine that. There is no dish to the rim and all of the spokes are the same length. I also ordered Sapim nipple washers and brass spoke washers so I can build the best wheel possible. While I am waiting for the spokes I will machine the adapter to extend my 135mm hub to 160 mm. I have a lot of tap & die sets but I may not have 13/32 fine thread. I think I will poke around now and see what I can find.

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      #19
      Watching your build and really like it. Has anyone tried to put a suspension fork on this frame? I seem to remember seeing external bearing cups that allow a straight suspension fork to be installed on the smaller diameter head tube bikes. Do you know the I.D. of the head tube?

      Looking forward to seeing this one completed.
      2018 Surly ECR 5spd IGH 29+: https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...id-drive-build
      2013 Niner Jet 9: https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...lectric-assist
      2016 Soma B-Side Belt Drive 3spd IGH: https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...v-custom-build

      Comment


      • calfee20
        calfee20 commented
        Editing a comment
        It has a small 1 inch head tube. I little cutting and welding could fix the head tube size but would it be worth the trouble. If this were a steel frame I might consider it because I have the equipment for steel not aluminum. There may be another way but I would have to inspect a bunch of front forks.

      • Rider
        Rider commented
        Editing a comment
        I came across this:

        http://www.genuinebicycleproducts.com/parts.html

        Lets you put 1-1/8" forks on "some" bikes designed for 1" forks. This might allow a suspension fork on this frame. Not sure if this aluminum frame will have the right I.D. for it to work. He's putting them on old steel frames.

      #20
      Wow two months gone by. Anytime the weather was good I went out on my regular cruiser for a ride instead of working on this one. There are also certain things that HAVE to be done in the garden at the right time. So that took some time.

      I have been working in the cellar making an adapter plate for my S-A hub. Version one was a fail. Version 2 is working but a third version may be built for convenience during maintenance. The problem is to fit a 135 mm IGH into 170 mm dropouts
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      Here you can see the space I need to make up. I need an adapter plate to fit in there and also have a place for the brake torque arm. Then some spacers and nuts and bolts should do it.
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      This is the setup. I decided to install helicoils in the plate to make installation easier. This is possible on an Electra because of the nice flat plates that they made the rear dropouts out of.

      Here is a photo of the setup with the bike upside down.
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      Here it is from another angle.
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      Things get a little tight in there so version three will be made from steel. The plate will be thinner and I will be able to weld the spacers to the plate. Then I can cut threads directly into the spacers and eliminate the need for nuts between the plate and hub. That would make installation a snap.

      Comment


        #21
        The plate will stay on the hub. This will make wheel removal easier.

        Click image for larger version

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        The other thing needing attention was the rear sprocket. The hub came with an eighth inch sprocket and since I didn't want to buy another chain I turned it down on my rusty lathe in the cellar.

        Click image for larger version

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        The Electra sure is a long bike. The shift cable that came with the S-A hub was to short. I will have to get one from a tandem I guess. I locked the hub in second and went for a short pedal ride and it acts like a bike.

        The initial prognosis on the 90 mm rear drum brake is not good. It may need wearing in and adjusting for improvement so I am not sure yet. The front factory disc brake sucks but that was expected. The rim brakes on my other cruiser work better. So far I feel my regular cruiser is nearly perfect so the plan to switch over the BBSHD to the fat bike is not going to happen. In about 6 weeks I will have the money for a complete kit. I will finish this bike then. There is no way I will go without a proper bike for even a day.

        I shifted my priorities a couple of days a go. My regular cruiser will get some improvements while I am waiting for the new kit for the fat bike. I have already ordered new tires and a new cassette for my standard cruiser. Schwalbe Big Apples here we come....................calfee

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          #22
          Wow, let me be the first to say that adapter is a thing of beauty! I am enjoying this build!

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          • calfee20
            calfee20 commented
            Editing a comment
            Thanks..........calfee

          • g725s
            g725s commented
            Editing a comment
            I'll second that. Very nice Calfee20.

          #23
          I worked some more on the bike. I got a long enough shift cable and setup the 5 spd. I had a set of S-A short pull levers that are made for the drum brake installed on the bike. This style lever didn't work as well for the front disc and I found I could compress the rear lever right to the grip taking up slack and compressing everything. I put the long pull Electra levers back on and went for an unpowered ride around the block.

          This made a complete difference in the braking performance of the bike. The drum will be fine for the rear. I will put it on par with a good rim brake and it should improve as the shoes wear and make full contact. I would NOT use a 90mm drum on the front however. Heavy ebikes should stick with good discs in the front. The improvement in the front brake with the proper lever was dramatic. They are quite good now but I will go with a 203 mm rotor and a BB7 caliper when the time comes to upgrade.

          The only disclaimer I would like to make is that I have very strong hands from being a farmer then a mechanic all of my life. Someone else may not get the same results.

          The 5 spd is nice. I think it will have a perfect spread of ratios for the BBSHD and my type of riding. Well that is all for now. The next post will be after I get the BBSHD installed. It will be more than a month.

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          • commuter ebikes
            commuter ebikes commented
            Editing a comment
            5-speed is working for me every day.

          #24
          Are you still planning on keeping the handle bar stem rotated backwards?

          I've been busy with other stuff so have not got around to messing with mine yet. Haven't even ridden the bike in over a month. :-(

          Comment


          • calfee20
            calfee20 commented
            Editing a comment
            I don't know that really moves the grips to the rear. I will probably try it sometime though.

          • g725s
            g725s commented
            Editing a comment
            Would the only prohibiting factor be aesthetics?

          • calfee20
            calfee20 commented
            Editing a comment
            No I actually like the way it looks. However turning the quill around moves everything back 6 inches and I have to think about things like mounting, dismounting, interference with my knees while pedaling, and harness length.

          #25
          Hi Calfee,
          Newbie here, but quite tech-wise.
          So I got exactly the same bike as you with a rear hub conversion and some other small mods. My question is: how do you cope with the bike's wobble? If I stand by the bike and shake it by the handlebar I can feel her wobble or twerk most notable on the backside. I can't figure out where this is coming - tires or the frame just being overwhelmed by the rear hub. When I built the thing the frame looked stiff and solid - now I have this wobble that drives me mad.
          Also, when braking, the fork seems to flex backwards - perhaps a normal thing for the fact that the bike is not made for this speed/weight combined? Below is a pic of my build. Click image for larger version  Name:	20170426_103239.jpg Views:	1 Size:	1.07 MB ID:	34056
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          Last edited by Rusteeze; 04-28-2017, 01:00 AM.

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          • Rider
            Rider commented
            Editing a comment
            Either you are a super tall dude or those MTB bars have your upper body leaning way forward. How's that feel with your feet also forward in the cruiser position?

          #26
          Hi Rider,
          I'm 1.90/6.2 and played water polo for 6 years in my life... So also wide shoulders if that counts.
          I like more this position and the control. First of all the bike is more responsive and even with the old handlebar I had a tendency to lean forward at higher speeds. I use this cruiser ho ride through the town (#1 in Europe for traffic jams) and it helps as it's narrower. The feet are also ok.
          A small thing: this it's the first gen of Lux7D - I had disk brake on front only, the back had classic back pedal brake. I had to drill some holes and adapt a disk brake on the back side - for a month I rode with front brake only, quite scary I have to say. Also the casette is a Shimano and the chain stays blocked on 3rd speed only.
          Last edited by Rusteeze; 04-28-2017, 06:32 AM.

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          • runny
            runny commented
            Editing a comment
            Hi Rusteeze - Im looking to mount a rear disk brake set up, and wondering if you had more details on how you set yours up? You mentioned drilling holes - in the frame plate? Mine is an Electra Special frame.

          #27
          I have only been a few kilometers pedaling my fat cruiser but what you are describing I may have experienced in my regular cruiser. The head set in the front fork was a little loose and the front end would clunk when braking. It took me a couple of tries because I was afraid over tightening the headset and it was hard to get a feel as I was tightening the bearing. You will need a thin open end wrench to get in there.

          You should also check the fit of your front and rear axle bearings. There may not be an adjustment on the rear because there are probably all sealed bearings back there. The front should be adjustable though.

          Comment


            #28
            I will try to do this.
            But related to the frame flexing/twerking/wobble - did you noticed a tendency?

            Comment


              #29
              I can't say with the fat Electra but with my standard Electra I have not noticed any flex or wobble since I tightened the headset. http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...lectra-cruiser What are you running for tire pressures?

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                #30
                Those huge tires are certain to add to the feeling of flex.

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