Electra Lux Fatt 7D BBSHD installation

[g725s]

Origin8 has two. The tread pattern you like. http://www.origin8.bike/product-desc...model_uid=8596
The tread pattern I like. http://www.origin8.bike/product-desc...odel_uid=12612

I think the factory tires will be the way to go. I wish there were more choices.................calfee

No actually I prefer the tread pattern say you like. I was only saying that was the only tire I found that was listed as 3.5x26. It is kind of an odd size.

This tread pattern http://www.origin8.bike/product-desc...odel_uid=12612 only comes in 4x26 and once you have the chainline dialed for the lowest gear with the stock tire, you would have to use spacers and then your moving the chainline out further.

I would love to see a tire with the tread pattern you say you like but in the same exact dementions as the stock tire and no logo markings on the tire.

[g725s]

Before:






and After (maybe a tad over 1mm clearance from the gear housing to the frame):






And Chainline (I would say about as good as you could get, as perfectly straight would put it dead center in the cassette using the Bafang Alloy Chainring adapter):

[calfee20]

Good job. You can't get better than that.

[g725s]

Yeah I'm pretty happy that it worked out so well.

I still need to cut the other side of the BB, but that should not be a problem, now that I've done the one side.

The chainline might go in even a tad more toward the wheel. Right now without the BBSHD cranked down the chain is 1/8" from the tire in lowest gear. But I'd rather have to add a spacer over not being able to get it as close as possible.

[calfee20]

No actually I prefer the tread pattern say you like. I was only saying that was the only tire I found that was listed as 3.5x26. It is kind of an odd size.

This tread pattern http://www.origin8.bike/product-desc...odel_uid=12612 only comes in 4x26 and once you have the chainline dialed for the lowest gear with the stock tire, you would have to use spacers and then your moving the chainline out further.

I would love to see a tire with the tread pattern you say you like but in the same exact dementions as the stock tire and no logo markings on the tire.

These tires got good reviews on Amazon but there was one that stood out.

[g725s]

Worked on installing some Rivet Nut / Rivnut / Nut-Sert (whatever you want to call them) today and got the battery mounted. Still got a few finishing touches, but wanted to show the progress so far.

I used 5mm x .8 Rivet Nuts. So you will need a final 7mm drill bit.

First I used a punch to mark the exact location of where I wanted the center of the hole for the rivet nut, and the punch makes a divot for the pilot hole also.

What I found is that it is best to drill initially an approximately 3/32" pilot hole (I did not have any Metric bits, and only bought the 7mm bit for this job). I found it best to drill only the one pilot hole. On the first one I drilled the one pilot hold then stepped it up a bit bigger with a second bit maybe a tad over 1/8". But what I found is that with the bigger pilot hole the 7mm bit wandered a bit. So my recommendation is to drill only one pilot hole prior to the 7mm.

And Oh Yeah, VERY IMPORTANT use only the sharpest fresh bits, as the dull bits will wander also. You want the final 7mm hole for the 5-M rivet nut as precise as possible yeah?






I did have to fabricate one stand-off out of small aluminum tubing.

And I did grind out a notch(to fit the down tube) in the bottom alloy portion of the battery mount... (look closely you can see how the bottom of the mount fits the down-tube)





For this Shark Pack I installed 3 Rivet Nuts. I've got 2 up top using the upper two holes, and for the bottom one you can see in the picture above with the stand-off I drilled a hole through the alloy portion of the battery mount.

[g725s]

Here are a few more pictures of the battery installation...

You need a 90 degree drill for at least the most upper rivet-nuts, in this install anyway. I've had this drill for at least 25 years or more. And I bought the cheapest rivet-nut tool I could find.







Here are a few more pictures where you can see where I ground out the battery mount at the bottom with the grinder...





and






And here is a picture of the amount of Bottom Bracket I cut from each side of the 100mm BB. I cut it exactly the width of a hose clamp on each side, which took it from 100mm down to just under 71mm. The hose clamp used as a guide was essential for getting an even cut.

[calfee20]

I posted this on spinningmagnets' thread but I will post it here to in case you missed it.

"To remove grips use a pointed air gun with your compressor directly on to the end of the grip The grips usually have a vent hole in the end but if not drill a small hole. The air will swell the grip and probably blow off the opposite one. Now find a way to block the handlebar end and repeat. I have a pointed rubber bushing that has a hole in the middle. I insert about half of it and then hammer a golf tee into the hole.

Use the same method to install the grips. Wipe the bar and the inside of the grip with alcohol and let dry. Grips should always be put on dry.......glue never seems to work. The air will swell the grip while you install and position it. It works really slick. I learned this years ago in my motor cycle days."

[calfee20]

West system Hmmm. I resurrected a cedar strip canoe that 2 other hackers tried to build. Basically I wanted to see if I could do epoxy work. I finished the outside and went off on another tangent.



We were talking about fenders and the other day I was poking around my Norton stuff. Nortons used 4.10 X 19 tires which are close to fat bike tire size. So I was looking at some fenders and thinking " I could make a mold out of that. Carbon fiber fenders would really look great but they would be expensive even if you did all the work yourself. A roll of 6" carbon tape is more than $250. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...bon+Fiber+Tape If I could buy 10' instead of 50 yards.........AHHhhhh what am I talking about think of the WORK for 2 fenders.

[calfee20]

I will have to wait until I get my Electra and see how the fenders matchup. I have an interesting Goldwing front fender too.

[g725s]

Yeah I'm thinking of a way to fill that void under the battery mount. So as I mentioned via PM I'm thinking I might use black pigmented epoxy putty on the bottom of the mount and just fill all those little voids you can see from the plastic molding.

Then I could sand that flat and put mold release on that and tape it off to the side at the bottom.

Then I could tape off the downtube where I would want the fillet to end and put mold release on the downtube also. Mount it all up and then put epoxy filler in that void.

It sure would look better without that void showing.

[g725s]

That Canoe looks sweet! Now you got to make a trailer and you can tow it behind your soon to be Electra Lux Fatt Bike. And of course put an electric motor on it!

[g725s]

Structurally, can you curve or bend a downtube more and have it still have the structural strength needed?

The Electra Lux only needed less than 5/8" of indents on the frame to fit the BBSHD. This frame is almost perfect for a BBSHD build inside the triangle.

If this frame had a downtube with more of a curve at the bottom going into the Bottom Bracket that might nix two birds with one stone.

2. It would allow the BBSHD to fit inside the triangle without modification.
3. it would or could give the battery mount a longer and straighter tube so that it could be installed to sit flat on the downtube.





I mounted the Battery as high as possible only because I wanted it to be on the tube with the least amount of curve (as you can see the gap between the battery mount and the downtube). So it is mounted just so that it can be slid up and down with enough room to get it off and on.

[g725s]

Edit: Nevermind see comment below...

Is there a mount for the color display to allow it to fit the smaller handlebar outside diameter of the Lux's handlebar?

[g725s]

Nevermind the above. I found the bushings. They were in a little bag that I had thrown off to the side. It fits now.

[calfee20]

6061-T6 aluminum has a small percentage of copper in it. It is the copper that hardens the metal. You would have to heat the tubes to anneal the metal so you could do the bending then after time the copper atoms would move around and harden the tube again but I don't know how long that would take. Here is a sentence from a 6061 sped sheet. "“T6” indicates that it was solution heat-treated and artificially aged." The manufacturer has a method of speeding the aging process which makes the metal harder.

That is something I would not want to try. Besides the curved tubes are the hallmark of a cruiser frame especially the cantilever frame. If Electra had kept all of the measurements in proportion when they made the frame larger instead of shortening the top tube the BBSHD probably would have slid right in. I suspect they were trying to keep the wheelbase in control.

[g725s]

Yeah but this frames downtube could be modified slightly and I bet you'd hardly notice. That red line I drew for example is overkill.

By just having curved it slightly more at the bottom and made the mid portion just slightly straighter to fit a battery mount.

I'm hoping bicycle manufactures might take note here ;-)

Maybe even LUNA could commission a builder to build with these ideas in mind. This frame has so much potential.

For instance also that large bracket that the rear wheel mounts to. That should come pre-configured to mount IGH's as well and the droppout it already has.

[g725s]

Also Calfee20, my comments about the frame were only wishing that a manufacture would make a frame almost identical to the LUX , but initially with more curve in the bottom of the downtube. Not modifying it after the fact. and make the top tube just a bit lower so that you'd not have to cut the seatpost tube to get a seat suspension to fit good.

[calfee20]

Hey is that a piece of Weaver scope mount or did the battery pack come with it.

[g725s]

The Shark Pack mount comes with 2 of those rubber bushings.

[calfee20]

Good to know. Hey it is getting closer to D-Day...........That's delivery day for my Fat Electra. I have been working on gutters on the old farm house. Bikes are definitely more fun.

[g725s]

I know this is not sticking with the peddle only version of this frame. But this is another modification to the frame geometry that I would like to see in a frame like this designed for a BBSHD.
And keep in mind this is a very rough freehand draw, and only an example to explain my reasoning.


This frame leaves little room for a seatpost suspension. If the top tubes were lower it would accommodate even the biggest seatpost suspension like the Thudbuster LT.

And for me I have a surfboard trailer that has a hitch that attaches to the seatpost. I would love to have room for both a seatpost suspension and the hitch that takes up about 1.5" of seatpost:
(this is just a pictrue I grabbed off the web to show the surfboard trailer and hitch)

[calfee20]

Spinningmagnets cut the top of his seat tube down to get a thud buster in there. That modification might give you an extra inch or two of seat post. I can't find where he mentioned that now.

[g725s]

I love the BBSHD. It climbs the hills great. It is a 900ft climb from the beach to my house, so now I can ride from my house to the beach as if I were on the flats. It's awesome.

[calfee20]

Wow this flatlander is jealous and you have so many bike paths out there.