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Electra Lux Fatt 7D BBSHD installation

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    #31
    The hill I live at the top of is going to be tough on the brakes, as it is just over 1 mile of pretty steep braking.

    So I sent an eMail off to Electra to find out about the stock disc brakes for the Electra Lux Fatt 7D. This is what they said:

    " Your bike has ProMax mechanical disc brakes. If you need new brake pads, you can use Avid BB5 or Kool-Stop KS-D280. "

    Here is an off brand AHL: https://www.amazon.com/AHL-4pairs-Bi.../dp/B01AJ1MUXY

    Kool-Stop KS-D280: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Dis.../dp/B001CJVA0M

    Avid BB5 Pads: https://www.amazon.com/Avid-Bicycle-.../dp/B000VT2EX6
    Last edited by g725s; 12-08-2016, 10:02 PM.

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    • g725s
      g725s commented
      Editing a comment
      For now I'll keep using the stock ProMax DSK-310 brakes and get some money's worth out of them, but down the line I will upgrade to the Avid BB7's.

      As research leads me to believe that the Avid BB7 is one of, if not, the best mechanical disc brakes on the market. And that the Avid BB7's are about on par with hydraulic brakes. Some people seem to even like them better than hydraulic versions.

      I would probably at the time I decide to upgrade the brakes also go with bigger rotors as well.

    #32
    To bad you couldn't do regenerative braking on the way down. I am a flatlander over here and for the past month I have been thinking of all the things I can do to my bike when it arrives. I would like to stay away from hydraulics and I have decided to go with a Sturmey-Archer 5spd. Well they have a 5spd with a 90mm drum brake and I read some favorable stuff about the brake. You don't need or want the strongest brake on the rear so I think I am going to try one. The neat part about it is the flanges are quite far apart and the spacing will be just about perfect for my 170mm rear dropouts. The rim I lace up will be almost centered so I will have a strong symmetrical wheel with almost no dish.

    If the brake works out on the back I may put one on the front. My first Norton ,a 71, had a double leading shoe in the front and I could almost lock up the wheel with one finger. It will be an interesting experiment and if nothing else the shoes should last longer than many sets of pads.

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    • g725s
      g725s commented
      Editing a comment
      Looking forward to your build. I would like very much to have an IGH. If Rohloff''s were anywhere near a reasonable price I'd like to have one with a belt drive.

      My next project on mine is going to be the chainguard. I made a bit of a mistake initially thinking I could bend one of the existing mounting tabs 180 while still attached to the guard. When I should have just cut the front tab right down the middle at the bottom and the one further back drilled it out and flipped it over. I'll post that project next.

      When are you going to be able to pick up your bike?

    • calfee20
      calfee20 commented
      Editing a comment
      Soon I guess. They were supposed to be available at the warehouse this week. I still think a Rohloff has to many speeds if you are mostly a street rider. There is a way to put two or three sprockets on that 5 spd and still use a derailleur occasionally. If you were going off road you could make a 6 tooth jump and use your IGH in that situation.

    #33
    Working on the chain-guard. I cut the stock mounting tab to make 2 tabs off the front of the chain guard. One i drilled out the rivet holding it on and flipped it over.

    I had to bend the one tab forward a bit so that it will lineup with a bolt that holds the BBSHD controller on. I will use a small aluminum tube that just fits that bolt as a stand off with a longer bolt there.

    The second tab I will use some epoxy putty to make a holder for it. I will cover it with plastic tape and use some mold release so that it will be removable.

    The bolt you see holding the one tab on is just temporary. to line things up and check the fit, till I can find someone with a rivet gun and some rivets to reinstall it, as a smooth rivet top would look best there.

    Click here to go back a few post to see the chain-guard mounting tab before I cut it and made it into 2 tabs.

    ... Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by g725s; 12-12-2016, 02:06 PM.

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      #34
      Got the Chainguard mounted. Still need to paint it. I'll try and take a picture of how I bolted it on later. But it it nice to know my pant leg won't get caught and ripped up.
      Click image for larger version

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      • calfee20
        calfee20 commented
        Editing a comment
        Has anything changed for you when you post photos? I have been having problems.

      • g725s
        g725s commented
        Editing a comment
        It seemed as usual. I edit my photo using Photoshop Elements > Save for Web so they are web sized appropriately around 850 pixels. Then select the photo icon > upload tab and follow the process. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary.

      #35
      That is looking good.

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        #36
        It is somewhat crude, but it works, and will look better after I paint it. I have tools that would have made this easier and probably look better but they are in storage regretfully. My local hardware store only had that type of hex head bolt. Will look better after I paint it. But it seemed using the existing bolt hole for the controller mount was my easiest way to mount the chain-guard. The other tab I used some epoxy putty to hold it in place on the BBSHD gear housing.
        Click image for larger version

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