Motobecane Night Train Bullet - BBSHD
This bike has the same frame as the Motobecane Sturgis Bullet; thus reference the post by JPLabs for his build details that I followed.
Donor Bike:
Frame 17.5" Medium w/11 speed rear cassette ( I added the Thudbuster LT seat post)
Build purchases
120 mm BBSHD kit
Luna Mighty-Mini 30t chain ring
Display - DPC-14
Mid Drive Gear Sensor for derailers
Programming Cable
Universal Thumb Throttle
Luna wrench for drive installation
52v Panasonic 13.5ah GA Shark Pack
Luna 52v advanced 300w charger
Universal Hall Sensor Brake Switch 8fun Bafang BBSHD (for rear brake)
Race Face Cinch BSA BB Cup Tool
Origin8 2.5mm outboard BB spacer for SHI/GXP (Bag of 10) Note: Luna sends a spacer kit, but there is not enough spacers for this build)
Jagwire Alloy Stick-On Guides C-Clips (for rerouting rear shift cable)
Build Summary:
The bottom bracket removal process was smooth with no difficulties encountered.
Motor spacing
Used one 2.5 mm spacer on the chain side to get the motor as close to the chain stay without touching.
I needed to trim front derailer mount bosses, 8 mm from the forward and 1 mm off of the rear boss.
Non-chain side I used seven 2.5 mm spacers. I used two washers on the motor mount bracket (about 2.5 mm)
Rear Cassette Alignment:
With the 30t Mighty Mini chain ring (since I will be mostly using the bike for single track) I wanted the gearing the 30t sprocket provides)
When aligned with the front chain ring aligned with 8th gear in the rear.
When in 1st gear, there is a substantial angle. ​​​​I have about 150 miles on the bike mostly on single track and have not had any problems. I am figuring over time I will be changing out chains and sprocket more often, but I feel it is worth it to have the 11 speeds.
Rear cassette shifter cable run and Gear Sensor:
The original bike routes the rear cassette shifter cable through the frame and below the bottom bracket. Due to the way the motor mounts and the placement of the Gear Sensor I decided to reroute the cable via the top tube and then along the seat stay.
I mounted the Gear Sensor just below the rear of the top tube.
Speed Sensor
I used cable ties to mount the speed sensor, had to mount it in a way to avoid wide tire. No additional spacing was required.
eBrake Switch
The installation of the eBrake switch was the most challenging and I am not completely happy with the results. Installed on the top side of the handle for the rear brake only, using a cable tie for the sensor and tape to hold the magnet in place. Did not want to use glue for mounting, will continue to seek a better mount.
Finished bike:
I have about 150 miles, mostly single track using PAS. It has been an adventure dialing in PAS settings for my mountain biking style.
This bike has the same frame as the Motobecane Sturgis Bullet; thus reference the post by JPLabs for his build details that I followed.
Donor Bike:
Frame 17.5" Medium w/11 speed rear cassette ( I added the Thudbuster LT seat post)
Build purchases
120 mm BBSHD kit
Luna Mighty-Mini 30t chain ring
Display - DPC-14
Mid Drive Gear Sensor for derailers
Programming Cable
Universal Thumb Throttle
Luna wrench for drive installation
52v Panasonic 13.5ah GA Shark Pack
Luna 52v advanced 300w charger
Universal Hall Sensor Brake Switch 8fun Bafang BBSHD (for rear brake)
Race Face Cinch BSA BB Cup Tool
Origin8 2.5mm outboard BB spacer for SHI/GXP (Bag of 10) Note: Luna sends a spacer kit, but there is not enough spacers for this build)
Jagwire Alloy Stick-On Guides C-Clips (for rerouting rear shift cable)
Build Summary:
The bottom bracket removal process was smooth with no difficulties encountered.
Motor spacing
Used one 2.5 mm spacer on the chain side to get the motor as close to the chain stay without touching.
I needed to trim front derailer mount bosses, 8 mm from the forward and 1 mm off of the rear boss.
Non-chain side I used seven 2.5 mm spacers. I used two washers on the motor mount bracket (about 2.5 mm)
Rear Cassette Alignment:
With the 30t Mighty Mini chain ring (since I will be mostly using the bike for single track) I wanted the gearing the 30t sprocket provides)
When aligned with the front chain ring aligned with 8th gear in the rear.
When in 1st gear, there is a substantial angle. ​​​​I have about 150 miles on the bike mostly on single track and have not had any problems. I am figuring over time I will be changing out chains and sprocket more often, but I feel it is worth it to have the 11 speeds.
Rear cassette shifter cable run and Gear Sensor:
The original bike routes the rear cassette shifter cable through the frame and below the bottom bracket. Due to the way the motor mounts and the placement of the Gear Sensor I decided to reroute the cable via the top tube and then along the seat stay.
I mounted the Gear Sensor just below the rear of the top tube.
Speed Sensor
I used cable ties to mount the speed sensor, had to mount it in a way to avoid wide tire. No additional spacing was required.
eBrake Switch
The installation of the eBrake switch was the most challenging and I am not completely happy with the results. Installed on the top side of the handle for the rear brake only, using a cable tie for the sensor and tape to hold the magnet in place. Did not want to use glue for mounting, will continue to seek a better mount.
Finished bike:
I have about 150 miles, mostly single track using PAS. It has been an adventure dialing in PAS settings for my mountain biking style.
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