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BBSHD on Full Suspension Turner with Shark Pack

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    BBSHD on Full Suspension Turner with Shark Pack

    Thanks to Lunacycles.com and folks on the electricbike forum I have installed a bbshd, 52v,13.5AH battery kit on my 08 Turner bike. I am not a bike tech, but with a few questions, it was easy.The hardest paret was installing two threaded rivets on the frame to mount the battery. I bought rivets from Hanson Rivet and supply co. 800-777-4838. Part # SSKL10-32-130 300 stainless thin-nut, large flange,plain finish. min order 10. I bought screws on ebay,10x32x1 button head socket cap screws. 25 for 6.37. After marking and punching the hole location on the frame, I used a right angle drill and cut off a small pilot and the correct size bit so as to fit under the top bar.Put a screw, with a nut and some oil on it,into the rivet and insert them into the hole in the frame. Hold the screw and tighten the nut down until you feel the rivet crush against the inside of the frame. I sanded the sides of the screw head flat and gripped it with a vise grip.thighten it good. The rest of the build was straight forward.I did take a 1/16 off the chain stay(!), It was a good spot to do it, to avoid using a spacer.I wired the luna cyclops headlight into the luna tailight wire at the seatpost. Then the tailight wire into the bike side of the .xt90 spark res. connector at the battery. Plugged in the battery and the lights,both have switches, work great.Motor on or off. 52v no fuse. The bike is super fun to ride! Very powerfull and quiet. With the eclypes 42 tooth drive sprocket and 9 sp 11-34 tooth cassette, it climbs my STEEEP dirt driveway easily and goes faster then I am comfy with! It looks amazing! Here's some pictures, Regards, e-rod Later, took it for a ride to see if it would do the 4 mi of steep!(ridiculous) road to town and back and it made it with throttle only! Just made it with gauge flashing, and quit. The bbshd was only a little warm and the battery was also only a little warm. Cold day though. I might get the shark PF battery and try it. Sounds like it would pull harder but maybe run out before I got home. We will see. Happy trails, e-rod

    #2
    Looking good!

    Those rivnuts are clever.

    I like how that frame kept the swingarm/tail section unpainted aluminum.

    Comment


      #3
      I've been a fan of rivnuts for a long time. I have also seen them called nutserts. Last time I bought them, I got them from here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivet-nuts/=11ifm9x

      Comment


        #4
        Nice build with many challenges that many probably wouldn't want to undertake. I don't think you could have found a more solid chain stay to make a minor modification too, I wouldn't worry about it either. I was wondering if the extra weight of that ebike hardware on the full suspension frame was easy to adjust for? I too have a BBSHD with 52V dolphin pack with Panasonic PF (that's all Luna had when I pulled the trigger) and I find it doesn't get past warm and I routinely hit >1400W and 30A according to my Wattmeter because of my hilly commute.
        I wonder if you considered routing your battery cable on the non-drive side of your seat tube? That was something I thought to do to protect my wires from a cut/short, I used the same wire loom wrap, it's kind of unnerving that the wires are completely exposed underneath the drive. It's not likely to hit them but it is possible. The way you have it hides the wires nicely.
        Congratulations on a nice build!

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks all. Bikeb4drive, good idea to reroute the motor wire to the other side, The chainstay showed a "C" shape at the sprocket area, I trimmed the ends of the "C" a bit, I think it's OK, and no spacer, although I now think spacers are just fine. Weight wise I have put 120 lbs of air into the rear shock and it's still sagging past 1/2 of it's travel when I get on. Supposed to be 1/4 with full weight. I need to study about this shock some more. More air I guess. I do want to get a watt meter. The c965 dash I have is 3 button and not like the manuals I have found. The display is like an 800s and I haven't figured it out yet. But it seems to work just fine the way it came. Maybe I can find the right manual and check on the settings or tweek it. I think the wires under the motor are OK, I am not a thrasher. Could put a cover over them I'm sure. I like the Turner frame, it's beautiful and made in America!

          Comment


          • PoweredRide
            PoweredRide commented
            Editing a comment
            The shock typically needs 180-200 lbs. A shock pump is what you need.

          #6
          I'm sure you can replace the shock, I thought about buying a full suspension bike like the 2000ish Jamis Dakar or Specialized Epic or Rocky Mountain Element and getting an XL frame hoping it was designed for more weight with bigger riders in mind. I ended up with a thudbuster LT on my old hard tail. It's comfy enough.
          You can get your feet wet with this wattmeter, http://m.ebay.com/itm/321649598872?_mwBanner=1
          I bought my first from another company and it wasn't accurate. The second was from this company, it had a QC sticker and was pretty accurate compared to my Fluke meter. I bought a second from them faor my charger and it is accurate as well. I would have bought from Luna but I didn't want to spend $25 and end up wrecking it. When i purchased they were $7 each. Now that I have it on the handlebars it is interesting to see the voltage sag and amperage draw. I think it would be just as useful to have it close to the battery and check the values when you stop or when done. The cycle analyst or battman are also better, can probably see easily in bright sunlight. Cost was an issue for me, I've invested more into my bike than just the kit.

          Comment


            #7
            Thanks Bikeb4Drive, How did you wire in the wattmeter? If it's on the handle bar, so it can be monitored easy, does it need to be heavy wired down to the battery and back? running all the power through it? That's a lot of wire. People mention having it on the bar, I don't get it yet. Thanks, e-rod

            Comment


              #8
              Hello e-rod, I didn't come up with this hack, I read about it first here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/vi...t=remote+shunt. It is old and the new wattmeters that look identical to this have been changed so they lack tuning pots. I had to find a vendor that sold ones that passed quality checks. I used small gauge wire, and made the shunt part of my XT60 splitter. This is not an easy hack, new models have screen printed circuit boards that are not as durable as Cu trace based circuit boards. On my splitter battery comes in, goes across the shunt and into my drive. I have a parallel set of XT60 one I'm using for my light and one for spare (2nd battery). I still owe this site a writeup of my bike, I have been commuting on it and tweaking other stuff like rack, brakes, fork, etc. The link is what you need. To unsolder the shunt I used my iron to heat one lead till solder flowed, lifted middle with small tweezers, then let cool, did same to other lead. I repeated this operation switching between leads until I got it free. Too much force or applied heat can damage the screen printed circuit board pads. No need to remove the display as stated in ES site. I don't think it is necessary to put it on the handlebars unless you really need it as a fuel gauge. The wattmeter just as useful without the hack. I suggest trying it without remoting the shunt first.
              Good luck.
              Last edited by BikeB4Drive; 03-15-2016, 07:24 PM.

              Comment


                #9
                WoW, OK, thats very techy. For now I will be happy riding my battery into exhaustion and not really worrying about it. I,m still trying to figure out the c965 display I have. It's not like the manual i have found. Different display, it's like an 800s? Later if I still want a battery gauge, I will try this. Now I have my eye on Luna's 60v 20ah PF triangle Battery! Thanks so much, e-rod

                Comment


                  #10
                  thanks poweredride! I will get a shock pump tomorrow. What ever that is? 200lbs!

                  Comment


                    #11
                    Originally posted by spinningmagnets View Post
                    I've been a fan of rivnuts for a long time. I have also seen them called nutserts. Last time I bought them, I got them from here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivet-nuts/=11ifm9x
                    FWIW, all rivnuts are not created equal! Threaded inserts are very resistant to coming loose and spinning in the frame, something that happens often with "Rivnut" inserts. True aviation rivnuts have a notch cut into the parent metal to catch a tab on the rivnuts flange, this is to prevent a stuck Rivnut from just spinning in place. These tabs and the special tool needed to cut the notch are very, very rarely found in most home shops. A two piece expanding insert like these: http://www.hansonrivet.com/flush-sty...ed-inserts.htm is a far better choice for the home mechanic. Get the knurled version, I have never had one spin even after installing hundreds during a kit car build.
                    Last edited by Lance Tesla; 04-08-2016, 09:40 AM.

                    Comment


                      #12
                      Thanks for posting that Lance Tesla. There have been times when I added a steel nutsert/rivnut inti a hole in an aluminum bracket I was using. In that application I did not compress the rivnet/nutsert in the way that it was designed to be used, I simply drilled the hole and put epoxy on the outside of the rivnut/nutsert, and put a bolt through it (from the other side) to hold it tight in place until the epoxy dried. I made certain to put some grease on the threads of the bolt so a small dab of epoxy that squeezes out would not bond the whole mess into an unusable blob, with a bolt that couldn't be removed.

                      Comment


                        #13
                        Great Job...this is one of the few succesful builds i have seen of a full suspension bike with a shark pack...real rarity.

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                          #14
                          What size frame is this? I just bought a used 21" Turner frame, I guess 2002 model or thereabouts, which should have more than enough space for the shark pack.

                          Also, what handlebars are you using? Looks like quite a bit of rise.

                          Did you sort out the rear shock sag issue?

                          Comment


                            #15
                            you should be able to fit any battery you want. I don't know how to or where to measure a frame. As you can see in my avatar, I now have a 24ah 52v GA battery mounted in a box in the triangle.I made a post about it in "building a battery box" It's great, I can hang the shark under the frame and really go somewhere. I like it so much I found and bought another 08 Turner to make another ebike. got to have one for a friend, right? I did buy a shock pump and got the sag right. very nice! Tell me where to measure and I will tell you what size it is! handlebars are 5" rise and very comfortable, all the wires fit, but I did need to cut one brake line longer as I switched to left hand rear brake. happy motoring E-rod

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