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Risun Motors Mustang BBSHD full suspension boost ebike build starting from a frame

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    #31
    Keep the wiring diagrams coming. That is useful material.

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      #32
      Attached is my plan

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      • barttp
        barttp commented
        Editing a comment
        In the future I might want to add more accessories. So I figure 12V 10A should be enough to drive a few things. Since I"m just powering a light. I Don't think I need to worry about fuses going out of the DC\DC step down since the light is rated for 12V - 80V. I probably should get a 10A inline fuse to go between the battery and the the DC\DC step down. Maybe one of these https://www.amazon.com/Lumision-Ship.../dp/B00L6TCOBW

      #33
      I had to order a different crown race (0-CROWNRACE-52/40 + 3MM-BAGGED 1 BAA0855K) from Cane Creek because the fork's steer tube is rubbing inside the headtube. The new crown race is 3mm tall and the Cane Creek technician feels it will fix the steer tube rubbing. If that doesn't work there is a 6mm tall crown race that will take a month to get here because it has to be milled. These crown races have to be ordered directly from Cane Creek since they don't come in any of the headset assemblies they sell.

      I'm also ordering a Vicoset ZS44: BAA0901K. This is made to prevent handlebar wobbling in e bikes.

      Shop our premium bike components online and upgrade your ride today. Based in Western North Carolina.
      Last edited by barttp; 08-03-2017, 02:01 PM.

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      • barttp
        barttp commented
        Editing a comment
        Just in case I got a 10mm tall one on ebay:


      • ykick
        ykick commented
        Editing a comment
        Cool product. Called a "steering dampener" on motorcycles. Factory BMW's from the early 70's used a similar version to the Cane Creek. At least in regard to the friction discs.

      • barttp
        barttp commented
        Editing a comment
        This is my first time reaching out to Cane Creek. I've got to say the support staff they have are a really good resource. I know they want people to use the website but if anyone ever gets stuck on something that is headset\fork related I would recommend giving them call.

      #34
      I am changing out the shock that came with this frame with a better shock., the Cane Creek Double Barrel CS Air Shock 190mm. I had a heck of a confusing time finding the mounting hardware to make the shock fit the frame. I ended up getting the following:
      1 x Rockshox Rear Shock Hardware M8 X 24.0mm
      1 x Rockshox Rear Shock Hardware M8 X 50.0mm


      The confusion on this is that Cane Creek doesn't sell the mounting hardware for the 50mm that my frame requires on their website. And I was assured by my bike shop that Cane Creek shocks use their own sizes. This appears to be true for almost all of the shocks Cane Creek makes except this one. This shock has a 1/2" universal axle which means you can use Rockshox mounting hardware. The Rockshox M8 X 24mm and M8 X 50mm axles fit just fine on my frame and are snug in the eyelet of the Cane Creek Double Barrel CS Air Shock.
      Last edited by barttp; 08-04-2017, 06:15 PM.

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        #35
        My last e-bike build took like a week. And the steps I needed to do it would have fit on a page. I can't believe I'm 4 weeks into this, and so much left to do!

        I also can't believe how much help I've received from this community, as well as from the makers of the frame, battery, headsets, the local bike shop. I mean everyone has been so helpful and I'm just a single snowflake in the storm of the e-bike community. This process has been a lot of fun. It's also been a lot of "oh shit" moments.
        Last edited by barttp; 08-04-2017, 07:11 PM.

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          #36
          Originally posted by barttp View Post
          My last e-bike build took like a week. And the steps I needed to do it would have fit on a page. I can't believe I'm 4 weeks into this, and so much left to do!

          I also can't believe how much help I've received from this community, as well as from the makers of the frame, battery, headsets, the local bike shop. I mean everyone has been so helpful and I'm just a single snowflake in the storm of the e-bike community. This process has been a lot of fun. It's also been a lot of "oh shit" moments.
          My last four ebikes have taken me between 6-12 months for each bike, and that was with me going full force (with no cap on the budget) most of the time. The time, effort and expense is worth it if you end up with a great, reliable bike.

          My powder coater has had a large amount of my parts (including two frames) now since April, and who knows how much longer I will have to wait. All four of my bikes are grounded until the powder coater finishes: "Oh shit, why did I decide to have all of the torque plates powder coated simultaneously".
          Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-04-2017, 11:23 PM.

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            #37
            The crown race worked perfect no more steer tube rubbing inside the headtube. Still a lot to do but I"m going to upload some pictures once I can make them work in this forum stuff.

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            Last edited by barttp; 08-10-2017, 08:10 PM.

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              #38
              Got my rear rack to fit. Had to scavenge parts from an old rear rack for the struts. The arms that mounted to the wheels were just the right size to use as struts for this bike.Checked to make sure everything clears with the rear suspension and it is perfect!

              I also had to widen the rack so it would work with the 190mm rear axle. Now I need to find high quality black leather panniers. I wonder if I could use motorbike panniers they seem to have a lot more selection.


              Attached Files
              Last edited by barttp; 08-12-2017, 06:09 PM.

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              • ykick
                ykick commented
                Editing a comment
                If I understand correctly, weight is on the rear rack is now handled by the rear shock and suspension pivots?

              #39
              It looks like the back tire will be supporting the weight except when the bike stops and then some weight will be supported the the shock. With the angle of the struts it should be very little weight supported by the shock.
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                #40
                Started the basic wiring for my 48V->12V 10amp accessories power source. Tested everything out plugged into one of my e bike batteries and the multi meter read 12V. So I'm off to a good start.

                My 13S 9p battery should be arriving tomorrow I'm a bit excited about that. Will check it all out when it comes in and share some pictures.


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                Last edited by barttp; 08-14-2017, 10:42 PM.

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                  #41
                  The battery was delivered today. Really sweet build quality. My only gripe is that there was a 40amp fuse wired in for the discharge. I rewired the discharge internally and disabled the fuse. Pretty simple since the fuse was just at the positive and negative discharge. Oh and the battery has an off setting which really does turn off the battery. So much less scary soldering on discharge cables internally when there is no power going to the discharge.

                  Since this battery has BMS with over current protection. If I decide I need a fuse I will wire one outside the battery to whatever device I want to protect.

                  Is it normal for battery makers to put a fuse on the main discharge port going out of the battery?

                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by barttp; 08-15-2017, 08:32 PM.

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                  • ykick
                    ykick commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Some people believe you gotta have a fuse on battery packs. I'm not one of 'em (except cell level like Tesla) because the BMS provides some reasonable short circuit protection. And if you really wanna take it "outlaw" 12-14ga wire will usually destroy itself as sort of makeshift fuse link in the event of dead short circuit.

                  • barttp
                    barttp commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Yeah I thought about slugging it with a wire but decided to just rewire it internally to bypass the fuse altogether. If I want a fuse i'll probably get an ANL fuse holder and fuse for wiring it outside the battery. There's a lot more range of amperage doing it that way than using the fuse they had. I've seen ANL fuses all the way up to 300A.
                    Last edited by barttp; 08-16-2017, 08:34 PM.

                  • commuter ebikes
                    commuter ebikes commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I had four 36V batteries with 90A fuses mounted right on top of the 18650 pack. On almost all of them, the heat from the pack melted the perimeter of the fuses' cheap plastic housings. Since they were partially melted, I removed all of these fuses, and I never had a problem without them. The BMS does its job, shutting down the battery pack if I draw too much current.

                  #42
                  Ordered a toy to play with the BBSHD programming called the switcheroonie. https://dillengerelectricbikes.com/s...cheroonie.html

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                  • barttp
                    barttp commented
                    Editing a comment
                    The switcheroonie is cool. Works as designed to switch between 750 watt street legal and 1000 watt off road. It also comes in handy if you have a wiring issue and wish to plug it in and see if you can talk to the bbshd motor.

                  #43
                  After a weekend spent with my soldering iron and and several dozen twist ties. I was able to wire the headlight, headlight switch, and a rear running light. I was also able to get my saddlebags installed. Click image for larger version  Name:	 Views:	1 Size:	837.6 KB ID:	43884

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                  Last edited by barttp; 08-30-2017, 08:35 PM.

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                  #44
                  Next I wire my horns! I plan to mount them with these to the rear rack.



                  Last edited by barttp; 08-31-2017, 12:32 AM.

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                    #45
                    Did you wire the headlight to the main battery? If so, how?

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                    • barttp
                      barttp commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I wired one of these to the battery discharge.



                      It gives me a 12v 10amp power source for accessories. Once you have the 12v power line you can just get motorcycle headlights and on off switch on the handlebars to use. Since the step down has over current protection it should be pretty safe with my battery. Keep in mind my battery is pretty large and can support the extra amp drain a smaller battery\bms might not handle the extra drain as well. If you just wire led lighting the drain should be pretty low. If you add a horn they tend to pull more amps when you honk depending on the horn. The over current protection won't let the accessories pull more than 12amps from the battery.

                      I also sprayed a few coats of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to weather proof the step down board, and put it in a controller case mounted between my battery and the rear tire.


                      Important thing to note my battery has an on off switch so this is less of an issue for me but several other battery types do not have a off switch. If you wire directly to a step down it will draw a small amount of power all the time so you will need a way to turn off the power to it. The one I use draws 8mA when it's not under load. Eventually this will drain the battery.
                      Last edited by barttp; 09-08-2017, 11:31 PM.

                    • donald
                      donald commented
                      Editing a comment
                      The headlight you got works on 12-85v. Why did you wire in a step-down? Figured I ought to ask before I start my own project!

                    • barttp
                      barttp commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I did the step down so I could wire other accessories as well. Originally I was planning to stay with 48v but found that 12v accessories are far more common since motorcycles generally are using that volatage.
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