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Intense Uzzi with BBSHD

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  • Harold
    replied
    The WTB 26 x 2.3 measures 2.525" wide. I figure a 2.6" actual width would also clear.

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  • commuter ebikes
    commented on 's reply
    The inner diameter of your head tube is 49mm? That is the biggest head tube I.D. that I have ever heard of! That is really great news for you because you have huge bearings.

  • Harold
    replied
    The Uzzi was my first ebike conversion. I'm the original owner, bought it back in the late 90's. I converted it back to non ebike and did a bunch of up grades.
    I tried a WTB 2.8" (measures 2.750" w x 27.5" tall on 50mm rims, it didn't clear, too tall and too wide. The 2.8"s put you in the 26+ range and those tires are taller than the 26".
    I bought a Manitou Magnum 27.5" with post mounts. My calipers are side mounts, so I bought a 180mm adapter. Unfortunately the posts were so tall that the 180 rotor only went into the caliper about 1/3 of the way. I switched to a 203mm rotor.
    Attached Files

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Here are the guts. The damper cartridge has a huge bladder.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Originally posted by xcnick View Post
    Commuter ebikes...has a great (picture) of him holding up the guts of the fork like a proud papa.
    Here is the pic:

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  • xcnick
    replied
    You have an Uzzi? Any pics? I have a 2.7 Maxis DHF (2.5 wide, Maxis lie) on the rear. Close but clears. Stay tuned for how I shove the 26" X 2.8" in there.

    As long as my post was, there was even more fitment issues. Fork says "xc brake standard". Sounds easy enough, but the Avid 203mm rotor is no longer their standard, 200 only, so brackets I could buy were for 200 not the 203 I have. Screw it, I just bought a new Tektro with their bracket. However the bracket didn't fit. Is this "xc standard" some new standard that is not so standard? Finally kluged some bracket with washers for Avid.

    Friggin snow:
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  • Harold
    replied
    I didn’t read the whole post but here’s some information.
    You can get 110 boost to 100 spacers so you can retain your current wheels.
    I have a 27.5 x 120mm 110 boost fork on my Bucksaw. With Surly Rabbit Hole 50mm rims I use either 26 x 3.0 tires or 26 x 3.8 Surly Nates.
    On my Intense Uzzi with disk brakes,a Magura race fork, I use Surly Rabbit Hole 26 x 50 rims with WTB Vigilante 26 x 2.3 tires. The 2.3 was the fattest tire that would clear the back.

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  • commuter ebikes
    commented on 's reply
    The first time I saw that fork was on a Monday morning when I sent you pictures of the new fork. I was stressed out rebuilding the damper cartridge because I wanted that fork to be as good as it could be for you. I am happy to see this suspension fork out being used so soon after you received it.

  • xcnick
    replied
    I only recognize my friends from their avatars. Commuter ebikes sold me a front fork he used in his Portland bike class and posted here for sale. My PM was titled: “I'll Play!” For me it is play. The whole will it fit question that dominates everything we do is frustrating work if you are not ready to make expensive mistakes. He has been a good sport being patient with my ignorance and I hope I made a new friend. We exchanged fun emails with pictures. He has a great one of him holding up the guts of the fork like a proud papa.

    This 2018 fork is listed as “boost”. WTF is boost? I guessed some extra turbo charged air suspension. Boy was I wrong. It is 110mm wheel hub spacing. Why not just say so? How many wheel spacing standards are there with names instead of numbers?

    It is a fork for a 27.5” wheel so I need a new wheel anyways, I will just get it in “boost” or 110mm. But what rim width? I have just tested the Maxis 2.8” wide downhill tire in a 26” and it is amazing. Many reviews that say something is better I can hardly tell when I try it. However this tire is light years better than what I have been using including the 2.35” wide Maxis downhill tire, which looks the same but is crap. I had the 26” x 2.8” on a 29mm internal width rim and it seems fine. Googled all I could and decided on 35mm internal width. Only Stan's Baron and WTB Asym are made in both 27.5 and 26”. (the rear is still 26” and hope to get the rear to match someday.)

    Will the tire fit? The fork says 2.5 wide maximum. The 2.8 DHF really only measures 2.6 I find from the interweb, so I am not pushing the width too much. But will it hit the crown or bridge? The crown measurement is listed. The tire is 28.5” according to the interweb. Add 170mm of travel and it won't hit the crown. However nowhere did I find the bridge measurement. The shops and everyone else says to use a mid fat 27.5” I need a 29” fork. Fork them all, I do what I want, so I bought a Stan's Baron 27.5 pre-built from bikeparts.com.

    I got the wheel and fork and only then realized I forgot the most important “will it fit” question. Bikes with this new tapered fork have a funny looking head which is wider at the bottom. The old Uzzi is straight for non tappered forks. The LBS showed me the new bikes with bulging heads and said there might be something out there to convert the Uzzi, but they don't have it.

    Made a call to bikeparts and got a knowledgeable response with a solution. (Rare for me). He has a headset to make the conversion, I just need to verify the ID of the bike head. Went back to the LBS to remove the headset, because they have the special tool. The mechanic got frustrated and in the end used a screwdriver and hammer. (I could have done that!) 49mm, a call to bikeparts, and a new headset is in the mail.

    Ok, it is just play, but I get even more anxious waiting for the mailman when just missing one part keeps me from playing with my new toys. Finally get everything. The Maxis 27.5” X 2.8” fits easily. The fork and conversion headset didn't add to bottom bracket height that I can measure. If it made the bike slacker, I don't notice it. However the bigger wheel and tire with longer travel means no more big ass 7p battery under the downtube.

    So my $600 bike now has the newest of front ends and is the envy of the cool kids:
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  • xcnick
    replied
    Originally posted by CPG View Post
    If the bike was mine, I'd use pipe wrap tape to really secure that battery, screw how it looks!
    I might like the looks, can you post a pic?

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  • CPG
    replied
    If the bike was mine, I'd use pipe wrap tape to really secure that battery, screw how it looks! I do like the out of the box thinking of locating it on the "wrong" side, looks like it works fine.

    A Husky/cattle dog race is something I'd like to see, two of the strongest canine runners for sure. I didn't know how fast my Border Terrier mutt mix could run until O got into e-bikes. It turned out he had an entirely different high speed gait that I had never seen before, like a frigging gazelle. I'll never forget looking over at him, and he looking back, "what, you didn't know I could do this?" FWIW: a Rohloff hub, besides the cost, is a problem solver like no other for a whacked out chain line. I'm still amazed by having a perfectly straight line in any gear on my e-Montague.

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  • xcnick
    replied
    The LBS said they could no longer get parts for it. I think it was going to be more than the $125 I spent on the new one. Live and learn about old bikes. Now I have it off I see it had too long a spring in it and from what I read that wears them out fast.

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  • Sneakers915
    replied
    What was the estimated cost of the coil rebuild? FWIW, you can rebuild DVO shocks yourself since you don't need nitrogen.

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  • xcnick
    replied
    The rear shock replacement problem was putting a $600 shock on a $600 bike. I just bought the cheapest thing on ebay and things worked out better than expected.
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    2014 new old stock for $125. no piggy back chamber is cool because now there is room for a mighty mini battery under it. The lock out is a true lock out and I can just hit the switch and let some of my 300 pounds friends ride the bike. It seems to work as well as the expensive coil shock that blew up.

    I have had with drivetrains. Just bite the bullet and drop $500 on the ex1. Sure I can get a bigger cog on the after market, Sun race has a 40-11 nine speed, but the Uzzi came with a medium cage so everything would have to be changed. Only the ex1 has big range between each gear, so there is only one choice.

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    The under $2000 bike is now just under $3000. Budget fail, but what a great bike to ride!


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  • xcnick
    replied
    Just bolt a BBSHD on a used downhill

    Read this a bunch, mostly said as sarcasm. However it is an interesting concept I pursed in conjunction with spending more than necessary on another bike.

    The first thing to question was the downhill bike. I rented everything the LBS had and ironically used my ebike to retrieve the 3 cars I left at the top.

    Yes, it is personal that I don't like downhill bikes. I am old and don't do big drops. The extra travel is for jumps, not smoothing out the ride for an old man. The rest of the bike is just a dull hammer. When you have a hammer, everything is a nail. If you see a rock garden you just speed up hit it hard.

    The enduro is nimble and graceful. You pick a good line and then it gives you a warm feeling as a reward for your finesse.

    The xc was great too, but for me the compromises for a couple of pounds are not worth it.

    So change that to Enduro instead of downhill. Used is the wrong word too. Craigslist is an adventure of it's own. They are abused, unrealistically priced, and or misrepresented bikes. What ever you pay, be accurate in your repair estimates. As a newbie I totally screwed this up.

    It is hard enough just to analyze frames to fit the mid drive, but getting rest of the bike right first time is the only way to stay on budget long term. My first screw up was drive train. I gave up chainline. It seemed cheaper just to buy a 30t front chain ring than change the derailleur, shifter, etc. to long cage and a 11-40 something cassette. I have worn out both the 30t and another 36t so now I concede to doing it right the third time. (One has to go up to 42t to get a good chainline and it takes a gear ratio of 1:1 to hill climb.)

    So how did the $600 Uzzi do? It fit under the arbitrary $2,000 just barely. I missed the front shocks needed to be rebuilt, new chain, and some other things. However what I am spending on the drivetrain will bust it, hence this thinking out loud. The rotten old Maxis DHF turned out to be the best tire yet. It is the 2.7 wide and light years better than the same tire at 2.35”. The heavier spring shocks are actually noticeably better than the lighter air shocks. The through bolt rear end seems better. I like the long seat tube of the Uzzi because someday we will all mortgage our house and buy a dropper post.

    If I had to it again I would do this:

    Luna Right Twist Throttle For BBSHD and BBS02 $22.00
    Bafang BBSHD 1000W Mid Drive Kit $679.00
    4p battery 455
    charger 30
    The sunrace cassettes are 11-46 11 speed $70 11-42 10 speed $60.
    no shift detection or brake cutoffs and one has to swing the 46t sunflower.

    The enduro bike is being shunned by the young whippersnappers, so they are easy to buy. You have about $750 to spend and they are listed at $1000 or more. It must have long cage 10 or 11 speed or be cheap.

    It is crazy to think one can do better than just buying a complete bike. However what a person learns is of some value. Buying a new bike gives you one thing old bikes can't: cow udder. All the new bikes have a swooping down tube. The old Uzzi is straight giving more ground clearance. So I am proud of the Uzzi, even if I now have to break the budget.

    So just bolt a BBSHD on an abused, overpriced, misrepresented Enduro

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