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Electra Lux 7D fat tire build

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    #16
    90% of the parts are here. Lightning Rods small-block, PowerVelocity 12F controller with BT and Luna 60V triangle pack.
    I have a cable guide in the way thats got to go.
    Last edited by Sluggo001; 04-27-2018, 02:47 PM.

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      #17
      Test fitting the motor. I had an idea for standing the mount off the frame and stabilizing it. A tube saddle should keep it centered. The washers were temporary to estimate the bushing size.

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        #18
        Here’s an important tip when installing one of these motors. DON’T RUN THE MOTOR WITHOUT A LOAD. The ACS bearing is not seated as tight as it will be by running under load. When you release the throttle the ASC bearing will unthread itself and the pulley will seize against the motor housing. If that happens...good luck. I managed to rethread it with a strap wrench.

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          #19
          Motor mounted,CA and controller installed and ready for test ride. Not very pretty...yet.

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          • calfee20
            calfee20 commented
            Editing a comment
            Looks great to me.

          #20
          I haven’t posted for a while because of controller issues I was trying to sort out. After a lot of testing we’re sure it’s a bad controller and I should have a new one today.
          When it’s all sorted out, I’m going to be using a CA with PAS and the digital button.

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            #21
            Originally posted by Sluggo001 View Post
            Motor mounted,CA and controller installed and ready for test ride. Not very pretty...yet.
            I was looking at your photos and realized I should tell you about a snag I had with my Fat Electra. Like you my chain guard is gone and on my first ride the long chain would flop around and wind up on the wrong side of the chain guard mount sticking up out of the right chain stay. Then when I tried to shift I got horrendous noises and finally a chain derail. It might not be so bad with your three speed but you should keep it in mind.

            My fix was an Aluminum angle bracket screwed to the chain guard post to keep the chain in place.

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              #22
              Did you replace the rear hub?

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                #23
                Yes, I replaced the original Shimano 7 speed with a Sturmey Archer RX-RK3 disc brake 3 speed IGH. I lucked out and the chain line is good.

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                  #24
                  I’ve made real progress in the last few days. I’ve remedied an alignment issue with the 219 chain and the controller issue was resolved with a new Lyen controller. I had tried a PowerVelocity 12F, but, it had issues.
                  Yesterday and today were the first days I could actually ride for any real distance. I’ll need to replace the 17T rear with a 15 or 16. I’m running wide open and it’s not even breathing hard.
                  Time to tear it back down and clean up the wiring. Making a custom battery bag in leather as well.

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                    #25
                    If you install a Sturmey Archer hub in one of these Electra fat bike frames I suggest using these anti-turn washers instead of the ones that come with it. They are made for verticle dropouts and the tabs run right up to the axle and are beefier. The tabs on the originals barely caught the outside of the axle slot. Could the axle have spun and would it matter if it did? I don’t know makes me feel better though. There’s a lot of stuff in the SA catalog.

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                    • Rider
                      Rider commented
                      Editing a comment
                      From my experience the metal ones work best on steel drops and the alloy ones work best on alloy drops. Best to always check the S-A axle nuts for tightness before rides too. I've cracked the inner serrated threaded lock nut and drive side axle nut. I "think" I may have cracked the axle nut with the holes in it by over-tightening it, then it exploded while I was stopped on a ride and the bike was just sitting (the built up tension must have released). I also believe the inner lock nut cracking was due to the axle nut being loose and the constant back and forth torque eventually cracked it (1st gear torques it one way and 3rd gear torques in the other).

                      Yes, it makes a huge difference if they spin! You don't want that to happen. I posted a thread in Troubleshooting when I experienced issues that might be worth a look here:

                      https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...and-spins-free
                      Last edited by Rider; 06-15-2018, 07:36 AM.

                    • Sluggo001
                      Sluggo001 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I’ve put an SA drum brake hub on a Nirve steel frame with angled dropouts and had to modify Shimano anti-turn washers to fit. The Shimanos had to be moded to accept the 13/32 axle. It worked great, the drum arm fit perfectly on the frame bracket for the brake arm. If that would have spun, it would have been bad news.

                    #26
                    98% done. I’m thinking of fabbing a chainguard. I’m still rweaking throttle settings. This is fast, still pulling @35mph.

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                    • Rider
                      Rider commented
                      Editing a comment
                      WOW! Nicely done. Sit down, shut up, hold on and pedal if you can! Lol...

                      How are the manual brakes for the speed and weight of your ride? I see Shimano XT hydraulics or equivalent in your future. ;-)

                    • Sluggo001
                      Sluggo001 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      The brakes are surprisingly good. I activated the AuxD switch for 5 level amp restriction and it’s actually more fun to ride.

                    #27
                    I received a DM asking for more photos...here you go!

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