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1st Build & E-Bike rider-Magic Pie V5 (rear) -Bottle Batt. 52v*11.5ah-Huffy Parkside

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  • Tommycat
    commented on 's reply
    Back from the future... The 2 mm spokes are a little sloppy in the 3mm hub holes... I see where you can purchase spoke washers made to address this mismatch and would recommend using them.

  • Tommycat
    commented on 's reply
    Back from the future... The nipple removal tool seemed like a good idea at the time, and made removal really quick. But with the chance of twisting and messing up the slot a little. And having the bit fall off the slot and damage the rim...With these areas sitting right under an inflated inner tube, I really don't think it is worth the chance. Even with rim tape covering most. Take the extra time and wrench from below. What I will recommend is to replace square topped nipples with nice rounded ones!

  • Tommycat
    commented on 's reply
    Back from the future... Don't have any problem stopping with the reduced power as mentioned. But did install Kool-pads on the front wheel later on to try and eliminate a brake squeal...arrrrg.

  • Tommycat
    commented on 's reply
    UPDATE: 10-27-2018
    Pax was absolutely right. A full twist throttle will tend to jump around a bit when going over rough terrain. Stubbornly hanging on to my full twisty though by cutting it down to a third twist! :-) Jump to Post #39... Also note that thumb throttles can come with a key switch, push switch, 3 way switch, and a much recommended LED Digital read-out for battery voltage if you don't have or want another means to monitor. And other combinations! Wow.

  • Tommycat
    replied
    It's time to technically call this build completed! Sure, there is always some kind of tweak or upgrade that one would like to do. (And might be added in the future) But this bike is fully functional and a pleasure to ride. So at one year... :-O It's time to pull the protective cover off the display!





    Time to enjoy it before the cold temps come...







    Last edited by Tommycat; 09-30-2019, 01:11 PM.

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  • Tommycat
    replied
    Hummm finding the right look. So far I've got... taping wires to the frame with black tape. Running cables in flexible plastic tubing. And running wiring inside the actual bike frame.

    Time to take a look at some thing else. Staying on the safe side I decided not to drill large holes in the back seat stay for the cable connector. So decided to try a plastic cable or cord channel mounted parallel with the frame.



    Measured where it was going, tried a few angle cuts, and painted the final prototype.


    Ran 3 wiring cables that I had in the area. And secured it to the frame with my favorite go to trial, able to remove if necessary, hot glue.


    Final look at the bottom side...


    Topside...


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  • Tommycat
    replied
    About time to get to the elephant in the room! After installation of the Pie and removal of the back wheel a few times for issues and maintenance. What you read on the forums about a rear hub being a pain with the wiring harness that gets in the way is true. :-/ All along I knew this was going to have to be addressed, but it took me awhile to come up with an acceptable solution. So here is mine.

    In my mind I wanted something like a pig tail coming out of the motor. So the wheel can be easily removed and worked on, without a lot of wiring harness hassle It was the connector(s) that was holding me back. I knew I wanted to separate the high voltage battery input wires, the heavy 14 ga. Red and Black ones, from the lower small ga. control wiring. Using a XT60 for that connection, but what to do for the eight control wires? It had to connect 8 wires securely and be as water/dirt tight as possible. After an extensive search and looking at a variety of connectors, I think that this mod will work well.

    Hate to admit it, :-P but Bafang to the rescue. Or more precisely their 24 inch motor extension cable. See it HERE..
    As I needed about 20 inches of ground to cover between the motor and where I wanted to hide the 5 cable wiring harness connector and the rest of the harness in my make-up box this just worked.







    Wiring run that is about to change...








    This is what had to happen every time I wanted to remove the wheel. :-(









    Cutting the OEM harness, it only hurts for a second.









    Cut and paste... cutting.









    And pasting using good solder connections, multiple layers of heat shrink, and silicone caulk. As luck would have it the control wire coloring matched up perfectly! Red to Red, White to White... Etc.









    Final pigtail at the hub...









    New motor to harness connection...








    Keeping cables away from hub...








    Final installation...





    ]





    One of these days I'm going to figure out how to get rid of the black harness holding tape. Just haven't found the right look yet.
    Last edited by Tommycat; 10-02-2018, 01:05 PM. Reason: Added picture...

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  • Tommycat
    replied
    52 volt 3 amp Luna Mini Charger... Part 2.

    I like this charger. Of course it's the only one I've ever had. :-) The choice a charging percentages is great. Has enough amperage output to charge in a decent amount of time, and in a non-abusive way. (slow and sure...easy on the battery cells)

    But after doing a few charges, and being the curious cat that I am. It's obvious I should have gotten the advanced charger with the digital read out display. As I like to see how the charge is progressing, and how far too go...

    Which brings me to the reason for this post! Adding an Inline Voltage/Amperage Meter!

    After finding a suitable display... 100 vdc at up to 10 amps. as seen here. Got right to work...

    Wasn't too keen on the need for a battery, or other power source for meter operation to start with. ( 30vdc or less) But using a 9 volt battery was simple, and doesn't skew the amperage draw output reading of the charger when in use.

    So started by gathering a few parts.







    Reusing an old test box no longer used, hence the holes. Settled on a final lay-out and using a 6 amp double pole, double throw switch instead of the one in the first picture. I used one side to switch the 9 volt battery power to the meter. And the other side to switch the positive side of the charger input. A bonus being that there will be no arcing at the barrel charging port of the battery! Still, always plug your charger into the wall outlet first to charge it's capacitors!








    Quick test to make sure it works!








    The battery goes where???









    Had to add a bezel to hide some holes, offset for battery, and add thickness for proper meter mounting... whew.









    REFUELING THE ROCKET! :-)



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  • Tommycat
    replied
    52 volt 3 amp Luna Mini Charger... Part 1.











    Just a few thoughts using my Mini Charger...

    After doing a few 100 percent balancing charges as recommended at the start of my battery's life with no issues. I thought I might be spared the problem of the cycling charger. But no... after having discharged the battery below a level of about 50 vdc. I got the dreaded click off then on, over and over, with the fan cycling along with it. This a now a known issue. So with a few e-mails with Luna support, answering a few troubleshooting questions. They were good to sent me the fix. A coupler made out of pvc tubing with a couple of XT60 connectors on both ends. That easily mounts between the outlet XT60 connector coming from the charger. And the adapter that ends with the barrel connector that plugs into the battery. Checking for what might be inside, I did some resistance checks. And found some resistance between the positive connectors. Which didn't seem to make sense to me, as I didn't see a reduction in voltage while running. Yep, being a curious cat I had to take it apart. The answer is it's a NTC or negative temperature coefficient thermistor, NTC 2.5D-15 to be more precise. I speculate that it prevents excessive inrush current on start up that would trip the charger's safeties (causing cycling) by allowing a slower than OEM current start-up. ( I think) Feeling that I didn't need an extra connector inline, I decided to go ahead and mount it inside the chargers case in series with the positive charging output wire.










    There, out of sight safe and secure, and working perfectly. And two free connectors for my effort. :-)
    Last edited by Tommycat; 10-26-2019, 09:15 AM.

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  • Tommycat
    replied
    Ahhhh yet another repair! While I was adjusting the rear derailleur to eliminate chain skipping. I had it off and on a few times. In order to totally remove it, I had to cut off the cable end protector. And in doing so allowed the cable to unravel! Argggg, pure rookie mistake. Time to replace the shifter cable.





    First off, the internet is truly a wonderful thing! I looked up videos on Shimano Twist Shifter cable replacement and bingo! It's like you've done it before! Never would have thought that all you had to do for access was to pop the cover off...incredible.

    I had previously measured old cable length and ordered replacement.





    On to the shifter mechanism. Mines mounted on the left side so it's upside down.





    Pop open the cover...





    Cut the cable in half for easier removal, and having easy access at the shifter.






    Pull the old one out, and slide the new one back in it's place.





    Re-secure at the rear. Adjusted as required. All set!





    This was a pleasant surprise of an easy fix...





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  • Tommycat
    replied
    Had a particularly unnerving issue that cropped up that I had a bit of luck solving.


    Issues: Ever see a top fuel dragster after it's burn outs, jerkily move forward to the starting line? Well my Magic Pie V5 was doing just that, without my hand on the twist throttle. :-O I mean it was ready to GO! Another symptom was that it would erratically drop out of cruise. Unsettling to say the least...


    Trouble shooting: Input to throttle hall sensor- 4.37 volts dc. Throttle sensor output: no twist- .9 volts dc full twist- 3.58 volts dc motor start @ 1.25 volts dc. Mechanical operation seemed sound, solid magnet in position. Hall sensor snug and secure in housing.


    Getting lucky: While pulling the hall sensor out to look it over, the wire to the ground terminal of the sensor fell off! ??? Found inadequate solder on wire and sensor terminal. Repaired.


    Lesson learned: A poor throttle hall sensor connection to ground will result in a higher than normal and in this case some times erratic voltage sense line output. Causing unintentional jerking and occasional loss of cruise. Just as if you'd jerked the throttle back momentarily. Which may come in handy for someone that has less than desired output, as adding a resistor in series with the ground wire may produce acceptable results. Hall sensor output can be manipulated... Throttle wire color schemes can be as erratic as my original problem...always verify!


    Regrets: Wish I'd pulled the heat shrink off the other two wires and checked them also with the assembly apart. :-/







    Here is the output profile after repair...





    A nice smooth linear progression using the full twist of the throttle.

    This problem tweaked an interest in exactly how a hall sensor throttle operates, and prompted me to write this thread on hall sensor throttles... have a look.

    ***** 8-16-2018 Welcome to the Hall Sensor Throttle Thread! If there is something you'd like to add, correct, needs better explanation, or have a question about... feel free to Private Message me. Better yet, open a new thread in the "troubleshooting " section and let everybody benefit! Please no Comments or Posts.
    Last edited by Tommycat; 09-07-2019, 05:24 AM. Reason: Added link to "Guide to Hall Sensor Throttle operation, testing, and modification."

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  • Tommycat
    replied
    One step forward, and two steps back? As fate would have it. While discussing the constant slow loss of tire pressure in both my tires, which it appears can not be totally stopped... See this thread... I had the back tire go flat...Argggg.
    Yep, this is what happens when Instant Karma gets ya!






    Found the problem... and patched, well tried actually. It's official I am no good at patching. Three tries, three failures. I have a different patch kit on hand now, so ready when needed for #4.






    Now here's the rub. It was on the rim side of the tube...? After looking a bit it seems to be close to a nipple hump, but well covered by the rim tube protector strip. Did I make a mistake when installing to use some baby powder to slick things up? Hopefully just a one off.




    That said, even more ominous to me was this cracking/splitting starting to show around the middle of the tire.



    Longer and a bit deeper in spots, right in the middle. I really like the very smooth ride that these tires give. But in retrospect they are awfully thin feeling and a bit of tread might help keep an eye on tire wear.








    So taking the advice of forum members, I'm going to install a heavy duty thorn proof tube which is slightly larger than needed. And later add some Stans after taking some data point of air leakage.
    Time to get back on the road!






    Comparison shot...






    The new tube is defiantly more substantial in thickness and heft! I like it! Put some tread on it and who needs a tire? :-)



    Internal wash...as recommended to get excess talc out before Stan's sealer.






    White creamy looking water came out, well worth the effort.



    WHAT!!! It goes in WHERE???






    Ahhhh, no worries. Fit like a glove. So at this time I'm not going to put the Stans in. Want to get some data points for the air leakage as is. Front verses back, although the weight distribution is certainly not equal.
    May just have stumbled on the potential cause of the premature tube failure. When I purposely over inflated the tube to 45 psi wanting to set the bead and accurately bleed off to the recommended 40 psi.
    Found a 5 psi difference between my automatic pressure gage, and the digital one I use for accuracy. So it looks like I've always been running the tire pressures 5 psi low. hummmmmm. Will calibrate and update new pressure loss information in time...





    As of 6-6-2018...To recap. At this time I just changed my back tube with a thorn proof over sized one. It's been on the bike for a week. I try to take a couple mile bike ride every day. I plan on getting digital tire pressure readings once a week. My base line is skewed right off the bat :-( as I forgot to get the ambient temperature at the time of the first test and I started off 1 PSI low. Keep in mind, I'm doing my best to take a quick, solid one time reading...with the tires cold (setting awhile). but nothings perfect. Once read for the week, will try improvements recommended then reset to 40 PSI and start again. Bike rests on single stand.

    …...…......……...……..Ambient Temperature / Front Tire / Back Tire Corrective Action...…………………………..Comments:
    Base Line: 5-30-2018 UNKNOWN …………….39.0 PSI...… 39 PSI.. New Back Tube Installed
    6-6-2018...………….. 77 degrees ………......…35.0 PSI...… 30 PSI...Tightened Schrader Valve Cores (both)......Loss of 4 PSI front and 9 PSI back, seems excessive.
    6-13-2018...………… 75 degrees...……………36.5 PSI...… 38 PSI... Tightened cores a bit more (maximum) Added new valve stem caps with seals. Making progress! Loss -3.5 PSI front -2 PSI back.
    6-20-2018...………… 77 degrees...……………37.0 PSI...….38 PSI... Added Stans tire sealant to front tube. Finally adding some Stans! No change with new caps. Loss -3 PSI front -2 PSI back
    6-27-2018...………… 76 degrees...……………36.5 PSI...….38.5 PSI. Added Stans to the back tube. No improvement in front :-( Loss front -3.5 back -1.5
    7-4-2018...…………...80 degrees...…………….0.0 PSI...….37.5 PSI Front tire flat... :-P Ordered new thornproof tube. Loss Front -40 Back -2.5 Installed new front tube. 7-6-2018.
    7-11-2018...………….88 degrees...…………….37.5 PSI......37.0 PSI Could be as good as it gets...will add last bottle of Stans to back tube. Loss front -2.5 back- 3.
    7-18-2018...………….86 degrees...…………….35.0 PSI......35.0 PSI Even but low. Just added last bottle of Stans to back tube. Caps tightened. Loss front -5 back -5.
    7-25-2018...………….80 degrees...…………….39.0 PSI......38.0 PSI This is closest to where I'd like to be.



    Conclusions: Tubes leak. :-) My biggest gain was making sure the valve cores where tight, and that the stem caps where tight. I feel good about the thorn proof tubes from a tear and puncture resistance point.
    Maybe wrenching on the nipples with the tire under pressure tore my previous light skinned tubes. Still a mystery. Added extra protection in the front. Rear will be addressed also. Perhaps the Stans tube sealer will pay off in the future stopping a leak, but I don't see a difference now. Keeping my compressor as easy to use as possible. Eyeing a bit of a bulge/deformity in the back tire (sigh). Tires will be next.

    Well that's my tire air pressure data points as of now.

    Last edited by Tommycat; 07-26-2018, 05:50 AM. Reason: Tire pressures update...

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  • Tommycat
    replied
    So since the beginning of the shake down cruises I've really noticed the need for a rear view mirror! Just a bad uneasy feeling of not being able to easily see what might be coming up behind you...

    Looking on the forum for suggestions and getting responses to this thread got me going in the right direction.
    After deciding on a Mirrycle mirror and receiving it in the mail. The first thing I think is I must have ordered just the replacement mirror as the package looked too small....?




    But on inspection of the boxes contents… all is well. Some assembly is required.




    Assembled...




    In the assembly instructions it stresses that the bolts WILL be tight! ;-) And this is correct!
    Tried a couple of mounting positions. Out and up.




    Pro's: Excellent full view to the entire road behind you. Magically looks around your back to see all the way to the right curb.
    Con's: For me it sticks out a bit far for comfort. Hits your arm while turning sharply left. No view of your body for reference.


    Down and In.




    Pro's: Good view behind you. Good reference to body position Out of the way of your arm on sharp turns. Maximum clearance.(tucked in).
    Con's: May hit your knee on a sharp left turn.
    So for now I'm going with the down and in position...


    Grip modification for installation...Shortened for shifter on the left.




    Cutting hole for mount insertion with an exacto knife. Same type of material like a thick inner tube...




    Final positioning and handle bar look...







    It gives a solid, shake free, wide angled view (objects are closer than they appear...) of everything behind you.
    I am glad I listened to this forums excellent advice.
    That said, when turning you lose sight of things behind. :-0 I just can't let the idea of a rear view camera and display go! LOL But for now this is working great.






    Last edited by Tommycat; 07-01-2018, 03:59 AM.

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  • Tommycat
    replied
    May be a good time to bring up another known issue. As mentioned while working with the controller software, it had a slight glitch with an export...

    After successfully saving a few configurations I wanted to return to a previous set-up after some setting changes...




    Found saved files...





    Tried importing... but none would...get the following error.






    Yep, unable to export?

    Tried shortening the file names to old computer file naming size, and everything else I could think of, but no luck. Granted it's only 12 settings, not the end of the world. But was wondering if there was an easy fix? Found out that it's a known issue and doesn't work at this time. :-(

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  • Tommycat
    replied

    IMPORTANT INFORMATION for Magic Pie owners.


    Since the purchase, and subsequent installation of the Magic Pie V5 I've been learning a lot. From perusing the E-Bike forums, owner manual, and sellers websites, reading about the joys and tribulations of owning a Pie. The number one recommendation during installation is the use of torque arms as previously mentioned... Number two starts below...

    Upon first arrival of the Pie kit with harness, one will notice a couple dead-ended four wire cables. With what appears to be a dab of hot glue or silicone caulk on the end of a raw cut wire...With the lacksadaisy way these are terminated one might think that they wouldn't have much importance. Perhaps just for possible future use and activation. True about future use, but these are HOT and ready to go...or short out, as the case may be. :-(... So the Tommycat Tip of the Day is... Separate, Isolate, and Insulate these important wire terminations. Please don't depend on the way these are terminated from the factory, as a slight flick of my finger nail easily popped off the wiring end protection. The method is up to you. A couple choices would be to use 4 wire connectors , or as I have done use heat shrink tubing. These important wires of low gauge (22?) provide pathways to full battery power, battery ground, and the regulated 5 volt power from the controller which is just rated at a tad above 100 mA. As well as electronic controller inputs, pedelac and reverse function. (which you may recall I disabled in the controller software since not using reverse) I've seen way to many instances of accidently shorting these wires and causing major damage to ether the wiring harness or controller, requiring the replacement of one or both. Just a friendly heads up! ^.^.

    Here is a map of the wiring terminations...


    \


    Location at controller harness, same type on top harness...





    I started by gaining access to the top harness wires...





    Separated...





    Isolated...two done here, two left to do.





    And insulated...





    Same on the controller harness!

















    Annnnnnnnd done!





    Coming next winter I'm seriously considering installing in line fuses at the controller before the wiring harness on the most important power lines... stay tuned and enjoy this great biking weather!








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