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1st Build & E-Bike rider-Magic Pie V5 (rear) -Bottle Batt. 52v*11.5ah-Huffy Parkside

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  • 1st Build & E-Bike rider-Magic Pie V5 (rear) -Bottle Batt. 52v*11.5ah-Huffy Parkside




    Mission Statement:

    To build an electric powered, two wheeled, one person bicycle, that requires no manual input to get you where you want to go.
    (No pedal assist desired here...)

    That has a range of at least 20 miles. Having a display that accurately depicts speed, power remaining and amp draw.

    Available in an easy to procure kit.

    That is easy to control and ride. Having a soft, comfortable ride. (No mountain trails here...)

    Quiet, safe, and easy to maintain.

    To be legal on bike paths.

    With minimal exposed wiring. Having a neat and clean install.



    I welcome any and all helpful comments to this endeavor.




    Question of the day...

    Twist throttle vrs. Thumb throttle...???
    Never used ether, but always liked motorcycle twist grips... Seeking advice on their differences and which is more preferred.


    As of 11-8-2017

    Thumb Throttle-2
    Twist throttle-0

    Found a good post on this subject HERE




    Respectfully submitted,

    Tommycat
    Last edited by Tommycat; 12-08-2017, 05:44 PM. Reason: Updated throttle vote count...

  • Tommycat
    replied
    Kickstand Replacement Upgrade...


    Reaching out to the forum...

    https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...tand-or-better



    My Huffy old style single leg kickstand is simply not up to the task of reliably keeping my heavy Ebike standing upright. The small footprint digs and sinks into anything except concrete. And the housing is easily bent allowing precarious angles closer to disaster. So before that happens, does anyone have an end user recommendation for a good replacement?


    And came up with this solution.

    A BV Adjustable Double Side Kickstand...


    Here is the original stand in operation.







    The lean may not look like to much here. But as heavy as the bike is, a few inches makes a tippy difference.

    So on to the replacement... As usual, totally underwhelming packaging with no instructions. But the parts were all there.






    The alignment seemed a little excessively staggered on first inspection. But we'll see.




    One bolt for easy removal, and a comparison shot between the old and new.




    And now for the most astonishing thing! The new mounting bracket fit perfectly in the bikes existing bracket. What are the odds?




    And now for the results.








    Ahhhhhhh, that's more like it!








    In conclusion.

    The new kickstand is a great improvement on the old weak one. The heftier aluminum arms and pivot bracket seem up to the task. The automatic mechanical action to deploy and retract is simple and straight forward. It does require a bit of a lift up on the bike. The offset of the legs mentioned earlier helps to allow access to push on the outer leg which is the main one. The staggered position of the legs when down are not bothersome. My biggest gripe is that the balance point allows the back wheel with the heavy motor hub to sit on the ground. I was hoping to have it be elevated for easy testing and maintenence.

    Looks like I'll have to add a front wheel Pie for balance! ;-)







    Leave a comment:


  • Tommycat
    commented on 's reply
    Thank you for the kind words... My thoughts on your questions can be seen in the Magic Pie section here...

    https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...ble-extensions

  • Churnmaster
    replied
    Which displays are compatible with the magic pie 5 ? also what cable can be used as an extension on a tandem to the display/ throttle ?...BTW sweet rig you built !

    Leave a comment:


  • Tommycat
    commented on 's reply
    Final torque arm on the prowl... Had to slim up for proper derailleur gear operation, painted, and used jam nuts on the axel for extra security.



  • Tommycat
    commented on 's reply
    It's been over a year and have had no problems with the hand modified spokes. :-0 They haven't loosened, broke, or provided any excitement in all this time. After all I'd heard about spokes breaking, this is a pleasant surprise. Sure I've had to re-true the wheel a couple of times for the stretching. But my biggest regret is that I didn't re-paint them when I had the chance!

  • Tommycat
    commented on 's reply
    Back from the future... The 2 mm spokes are a little sloppy in the 3mm hub holes... I see where you can purchase spoke washers made to address this mismatch and would recommend using them.

  • Tommycat
    commented on 's reply
    Back from the future... The nipple removal tool seemed like a good idea at the time, and made removal really quick. But with the chance of twisting and messing up the slot a little. And having the bit fall off the slot and damage the rim...With these areas sitting right under an inflated inner tube, I really don't think it is worth the chance. Even with rim tape covering most. Take the extra time and wrench from below. What I will recommend is to replace square topped nipples with nice rounded ones!

  • Tommycat
    commented on 's reply
    Back from the future... Don't have any problem stopping with the reduced power as mentioned. But did install Kool-pads on the front wheel later on to try and eliminate a brake squeal...arrrrg.

  • Tommycat
    commented on 's reply
    UPDATE: 10-27-2018
    Pax was absolutely right. A full twist throttle will tend to jump around a bit when going over rough terrain. Stubbornly hanging on to my full twisty though by cutting it down to a third twist! :-) Jump to Post #39... Also note that thumb throttles can come with a key switch, push switch, 3 way switch, and a much recommended LED Digital read-out for battery voltage if you don't have or want another means to monitor. And other combinations! Wow.

  • Tommycat
    replied
    It's time to technically call this build completed! Sure, there is always some kind of tweak or upgrade that one would like to do. (And might be added in the future) But this bike is fully functional and a pleasure to ride. So at one year... :-O It's time to pull the protective cover off the display!





    Time to enjoy it before the cold temps come...








    Stand by for a page of reference materials and information that I will post to help with your Magic Pie build! :-)

    Leave a comment:


  • Tommycat
    replied
    Hummm finding the right look. So far I've got... taping wires to the frame with black tape. Running cables in flexible plastic tubing. And running wiring inside the actual bike frame.

    Time to take a look at some thing else. Staying on the safe side I decided not to drill large holes in the back seat stay for the cable connector. So decided to try a plastic cable or cord channel mounted parallel with the frame.



    Measured where it was going, tried a few angle cuts, and painted the final prototype.


    Ran 3 wiring cables that I had in the area. And secured it to the frame with my favorite go to trial, able to remove if necessary, hot glue.


    Final look at the bottom side...


    Topside...


    Leave a comment:


  • Tommycat
    replied
    About time to get to the elephant in the room! After installation of the Pie and removal of the back wheel a few times for issues and maintenance. What you read on the forums about a rear hub being a pain with the wiring harness that gets in the way is true. :-/ All along I knew this was going to have to be addressed, but it took me awhile to come up with an acceptable solution. So here is mine.

    In my mind I wanted something like a pig tail coming out of the motor. So the wheel can be easily removed and worked on, without a lot of wiring harness hassle It was the connector(s) that was holding me back. I knew I wanted to separate the high voltage battery input wires, the heavy 14 ga. Red and Black ones, from the lower small ga. control wiring. Using a XT60 for that connection, but what to do for the eight control wires? It had to connect 8 wires securely and be as water/dirt tight as possible. After an extensive search and looking at a variety of connectors, I think that this mod will work well.

    Hate to admit it, :-P but Bafang to the rescue. Or more precisely their 24 inch motor extension cable. See it HERE..
    As I needed about 20 inches of ground to cover between the motor and where I wanted to hide the 5 cable wiring harness connector and the rest of the harness in my make-up box this just worked.







    Wiring run that is about to change...








    This is what had to happen every time I wanted to remove the wheel. :-(









    Cutting the OEM harness, it only hurts for a second.









    Cut and paste... cutting.









    And pasting using good solder connections, multiple layers of heat shrink, and silicone caulk. As luck would have it the control wire coloring matched up perfectly! Red to Red, White to White... Etc.









    Final pigtail at the hub...









    New motor to harness connection...








    Keeping cables away from hub...








    Final installation...





    ]





    One of these days I'm going to figure out how to get rid of the black harness holding tape. Just haven't found the right look yet.
    Last edited by Tommycat; 10-02-2018, 01:05 PM. Reason: Added picture...

    Leave a comment:


  • Tommycat
    replied
    52 volt 3 amp Luna Mini Charger... Part 2.

    I like this charger. Of course it's the only one I've ever had. :-) The choice a charging percentages is great. Has enough amperage output to charge in a decent amount of time, and in a non-abusive way. (slow and sure...easy on the battery cells)

    But after doing a few charges, and being the curious cat that I am. It's obvious I should have gotten the advanced charger with the digital read out display. As I like to see how the charge is progressing, and how far too go...

    Which brings me to the reason for this post! Adding an Inline Voltage/Amperage Meter!

    After finding a suitable display... 100 vdc at up to 10 amps. as seen here. Got right to work...

    Wasn't too keen on the need for a battery, or other power source for meter operation to start with. ( 30vdc or less) But using a 9 volt battery was simple, and doesn't skew the amperage draw output reading of the charger when in use.

    So started by gathering a few parts.







    Reusing an old test box no longer used, hence the holes. Settled on a final lay-out and using a 6 amp double pole, double throw switch instead of the one in the first picture. I used one side to switch the 9 volt battery power to the meter. And the other side to switch the positive side of the charger input. A bonus being that there will be no arcing at the barrel charging port of the battery! Still, always plug your charger into the wall outlet first to charge it's capacitors!








    Quick test to make sure it works!








    The battery goes where???









    Had to add a bezel to hide some holes, offset for battery, and add thickness for proper meter mounting... whew.









    REFUELING THE ROCKET! :-)



    Leave a comment:


  • Tommycat
    replied
    52 volt 3 amp Luna Mini Charger... Part 1.






    Just a few thoughts using my Mini Charger...

    After doing a few 100 percent balancing charges as recommended at the start of my battery's life with no issues. I thought I might be spared the problem of the cycling charger. But no... after having discharged the battery below a level of about 50 vdc. I got the dreaded click off then on, over and over, with the fan cycling along with it. This a now a known issue. So with a few e-mails with Luna support, answering a few troubleshooting questions. They were good to sent me the fix. A coupler made out of pvc tubing with a couple of XT60 connectors on both ends. That easily mounts between the outlet XT60 connector coming from the charger. And the adapter that ends with the barrel connector that plugs into the battery. Checking for what might be inside, I did some resistance checks. And found some resistance between the positive connectors. Which didn't seem to make sense to me, as I didn't see a reduction in voltage while running. Yep, being a curious cat I had to take it apart. The answer is it's a NTC or negative temperature coefficient thermistor that prevents excessive inrush current that would trip the charges safeties by allowing a slower than OEM current start-up. ( I think) Feeling that I didn't need an extra connector inline, I decided to go ahead and mount it inside the chargers case.




    There, out of sight safe and secure, and working perfectly. And two free connectors for my effort. :-)

    EDIT: NTC 2.5D-15 to be more precise.
    Last edited by Tommycat; 08-26-2018, 09:42 AM.

    Leave a comment:

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