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2017 Giant Stance 2 with a BBSHD and 52 Volt Shark Pack

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    #16
    Hi Science101. Great article. I recently built a Giant Anthem and encountered many of the challenges you did. I dispensed with the break cutouts because of the susgested glue mounting options but having seen your solution, I'll revisit it. That looks great. Can you confirm the break cut offs are still working well now after a couple of weeks.

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      #17
      Yup, they were a pain to get in just the right position, but after riding to and from work and on some single tracks they still work like a champ with no adjustment from the first install. That sugru stuff is magic.
      Last edited by MrScience101; 01-20-2018, 04:50 PM.

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        #18
        Programming the BBSHD.

        This is neat. It's one of the best features of the BBSHD compared to other mid drives. For example, when I first rode the bike, the throttle was set into 1500W boost mode. Meaning if I twisted it all, it was 1500W of power instantly to the wheel. That's wheely mode. First thing I did was go in and change the default 1.1v - 3.3v to 1.1v to - 4.4v, giving it a bit wider range. It didn't help much but at least there was a little bit of variable speed. Thus began a long list of tinkering.

        First things first. There are quite a few programming software downloads out there. Penoff and Luna's being the most popular. Because I bought the mid drive from Luna and it appears that they keep theirs up to date I used their software located here:

        https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...shd-mid-drives

        It worked great.

        Here is what the first page looks like:

        Click image for larger version  Name:	 Views:	1 Size:	80.2 KB ID:	57349


        The default cut off voltage is 41 volts. I have a 52 V battery instead of a 48V battery, so I changed it to 43V as you can see in the picture.

        Current limit is pretty neat. You want a 750W motor? Change it to 15 amps. You want a 1500W motor? Change it to 30 amps. Most of the rest of the current settings are in %, and it is % of the current limit.

        Assist levels took me forever to figure out. There are two settings. I put 0 and 0 in Assist 0. My controller defaults to Assist 1 when it turns on, so I made Assist 0 pedal only. No throttle, no pedal assist system (PAS), just a good old fashioned body powered bike. This is for when I want to remind myself how nice an electric powered bike is.

        I put 1 and 1 in Assist 1. This is throttle only mode. Meaning I can twist the throttle like a motorcycle. The problem is that because of the firmware of the controller I received if I start to pedal, then the pedal assist system overrides the throttle and I am limited to 1% current (about 27 Watts). That is until the throttle is wide open, then it overrides the pedal assist system and off I go. Makes for a weird relationship between the pedal assist system and throttle. Bafang owns the firmware, so until they fix it, it is what it is and as far as I know, there is no way to load your own firmware into the system. If someone knows how to do that, please let me know.

        The rest of the assist levels follow a neat formula. Current limit is fairly straightforward. I usually ride at PAS level 5, which means when I pedal the most the motor will assist me is 750 Watts (15 Amps, because Power is Current times Voltage). The speed limit is motor speed, not mph. At 48V the max 'speed' of the motor is 150 RPM. Thus you could limit the RPM or the current.

        At this point I had to choose weather to control current, or speed. I chose current because I wanted to get some exercise and using current I am able to give myself anywhere from 27 W to 1500W assist. I typically ride at PAS 5, which is 750W. I am hoping this makes the controller on the BBSHD last a long time.

        To use the assist levels 6-9 I had to go into the settings of my actual display and change it from five levels to nine levels. That was a bit of a pain, because I had to look up the super secret way of getting into the display.

        Speed meter type is not changeable, as is the speed meter signals. I changed the wheel diameter to 27 inches so I could get a more accurate speed. If your display only supports KPH and you want MPH you can change the wheel size to a different value like 18 inches so that what is displayed is MPH (even if the display still has KPH showing on it). My display can do either MPH or KPH so I was able to pick 27. Frustrating though, because my wheel size is actually 27.5. I am not sure if that means my MPH is slightly higher or lower than my actual MPH.


        The second page is mysterious and I am not sure anyone actually knows 100% for sure what these settings do:

        Click image for larger version

Name:	
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        The first three settings are left as they are. Not changeable in my opinion unless you are doing something weird.

        Starting current is what the PAS system starts at and then it 'ramps' up to 100% over a certain amount of time determined by one of the other settings. I am not sure which one it is. I think it is the 'slow start mode'. Not sure if 1 or 8 is the fastest ramp up time. This is good because DC motor starting currents are often five times (or more) the running current. I wouldn't want to constantly have a huge current spike every time I started and stopped pedaling. It would fry the electronics faster. This 'ramp' smooths out the starting current.

        Crank trigger pulses I think is how much you have to pedal before the PAS starts.

        Work mode is a complete unknown to me.

        More to come....

        Last edited by MrScience101; 02-04-2018, 01:32 PM.

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          #19
          Allo! Reading your build with interest. I just started a Giant Stance build, mine is using a large hub motor. My last bike was a Giant, and I'm basically upgrading by transferring my existing setup to the Stance. The Stance has full suspension, and a longer wheelbase, and I think it is going to be much better than what I've been riding. I'm running 2 of the 52V batts, and was having difficulty getting the lower one into the frame. I never would have thought to drill through the aluminium in the battery base, ( Ijust assumed the aluminum was a heatsink for circuitry) and was mulling over some more extreme solutions until I found this thread. Thanks for the info.

          I dispensed with the 27.5 wheels for a few reasons, and am running 26". One of the advantages of the slightly smaller wheels, is the option of relocating my 2nd batt from the topbar, to the forward part of the downtube, opposite the one inside the triangle. A bash plate/ mount for some side fairings might come out of it. It will also move the CG lower, and forward, offsetting the hub motor. My calculations seem to show a 50-50 weight front and rear, but that was without me on it, so nothing fixed in stone so far.

          I ride all year around, here in Canada, and it was a steep learning curve, at - 25 to -30 C, the windchill at 50 kph is significant, so I have designed some heated garments, using carbon fiber as electric heating elements. Past -20, there are no conventional gloves, and few mittens that are any use.

          I tested some tire inserts this winter (kindly provided by Cushcore) and I think I'll put a thread here about them, as soon as I get some time on them with summer tires. For anybody winter riding, Ice Spiker Pro's are fantastic. Appreciate lookin over your shoulder on your build!
          Last edited by OneBadWolf; 04-02-2018, 10:01 AM.

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          • MrScience101
            MrScience101 commented
            Editing a comment
            I love my Canadian friends. You guys are always friendly and laid back. Neat hearing about how to handle the cold weather up there. Thanks for sharing!

          #20
          Thanks again Mr Science. Motivated by your description/ instructions for mounting brake cutout sensors I invested in the Australian equivalent of surglue ( kneadit) and fitted up my own brake sensor. A lightbulb moment where you discover something has been missing from your life up to this point, it,s epoxy putty. This stuff is amazing. Looks great and works a treat.

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          • MrScience101
            MrScience101 commented
            Editing a comment
            Awesome! Looks great! Thanks for the picture.

          #21
          I just reached the 200 mile mark on my bike and realized I never shared the whole story. You can read about my two other builds here:

          http://www.mrscience101.com/index.ph...ric-bike-saga/

          It's been a fun adventure, but I am hoping to get 3,000 miles out of this current build.

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            #22
            Hi I’ve got a 100 MM bbshd which I bought in order to have clearance on the chainstay of my cube, but the chain alignment is awful so I’m now looking for a frame. Came across your thread after numerous google searches and am thinking Giant May be the way to go. Ok here come the questions, lol did you have any chain line issues? What are the dimensions of the battery, the battery I have will fit in the cube frame but there isn’t enough space to slide it up for removal. I’m getting so frustrated with finding a suitable frame I’m kind of wishing I’d gone for a rear hub motor instead, thanks in advance.

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