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Vitus Nucleus 29VR 2019 BBSHD

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    Vitus Nucleus 29VR 2019 BBSHD

    Hi, I've recently finished my ebike conversion and thought I'd share some info that might help other people thinking of converting a vitus nucleus 29VR. Firstly, before I'd even received the BBSHD kit, I hacksawed 40mm off the end of each handlebar end, and about 50mm off the seat post (I'm 5'11" and the bike is size large).
    I chose to buy the nucleus because it won MTB of the year (under $1000) and because it has a clean bottom bracket - no cables running underneath. The bike was delivered quickly and in mint condition, although after a few rides I've realised the rear wheel needs trueing. Now to the ebike stuff...

    This is my first ebike conversion, and it went fairly well. I found two main issues needed to be dealt with:

    1. The battery. I went for a 14AH 48V LG battery. It's quite heavy, and I didn't feel comfortable securing it to the downtube with only the two bottlecage rivet nuts on the bike. So I took it to a frame specialist (Jessie's bike bar in Melbourne) and he added two rivet nuts, which he secured with some kind of NASA level epoxy glue. Now with four rivet nut points, the battery feels rock solid. Jessie charged me fairly, about AU$70.
    2. The motor. Like the battery, it's heavy. After about week of use (about 50km), I noticed it was starting to come loose. During the initial install, I used the ring spanner I bought with the kit. It simply didn't provide enough torque on the steel ring. So I spent some more and bought the 1/2inch M32 socket drive. Paired with my big torque wrench, I managed to torque the steel ring to 100foot/pounds. I also used blue loctite on every rotational surface, both drive-side and non-drive-side. Finally, I used some epoxy putty to make a stopper between the top of the motor and the bottom of the downtube. The putty stopper may not be necessary, but I wasn't going to take any chances, reasoning that if the motor came loose again I was just chewing up my bottom bracket. After another 100km, there is absolutely no movement at the motor, I feel confident about it. Time will tell I guess.

    Space, the final frontier...
    The nucleus has a 73mm bottom bracket. I bought the 68-73mm BBSHD kit. It needed about 8mm of spacers on the drive side. The second 'pretty' lock ring doesn't work, there is not enough thread left on the crank axle. I bought a 42T lekkie bling ring, which needed NO spacers. I used about 10mm of spacers on the 2 triangle bracket allen bolts.

    Final notes...
    As mentioned, I bought a 42T bling ring. After some use, I tend to think a 36T ring would provide better gearing. However, keep in mind anything less than 42T provides less offset on the chainring, and risks creating too much bend on the chain. So I'm very happy with my choice of 42T.
    The stock nucleus chainring is 36T, so going to 42T means I will eventually buy a new longer chain. At the moment I'm reluctant to use the 3 larger rear cogs because the stock chain is too short.
    I chose the 500c mini display, very happy with it. Also strongly recommend a programming cable to fine tune PAS. Lastly the gear sensor, while not 100% perfect is a good idea - I mounted it on the upper drive side chain stay right behind the gear cable frame stop.

    Hope this info helps someone, cheers :)

    Click image for larger version

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