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    Chain Size and type

    I have broken the chain on my bike with a BBS02 several times. After watching some instruction videos I realized the chain was too long. No matter what I am going to buy a new chain. My question is, what size? I purchased the bike as a 24 speed, Marin. I put a bling ring on and now have 8 . Does that change the chain size I would buy? Connex has the 8SX http://www.connexchain.com/en/product/connex-8sx.html . My concern is the width would be different and I still need a 24 speed chain. Is the Connex overkill for trail/street?

    #2
    I guess I don't know either, for sure; if there are actually different specs for 8 and 24 speed chains, I don't understand the reason. A 24 speed is just an 8 speed with a 3x front setup, so I'd expect both to take the same chain, thus 8 speed chain should work.

    Anyway, as long as you kept the same cassette, you can run the original chain size, regardless of having 1 or 3 chainrings. If that helps.
    Fabrication is fun! Build something today. Show someone. Let them help. Inspire and share. Spread the desire.

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    • Stepold
      Stepold commented
      Editing a comment
      Let me be a bit more clear. Connex sells a Ebike chain(s). None go above 9 speed. Prior to Bling ring I had 3 sprockets up front, now 1. I have a 16 speed difference. In the attached article they are discussing the difference of 1 speed and saying there is a .25mm difference in the chain(s). My question originates from this dialog and others I have read. As well they are discussing regular bikes without motors. Now I have a 16 speed difference and a motor. It appears to not be a well known issue so I will go with an 8 speed and report back in a few months. Thanks.
      http://velonews.competitor.com/2016/...nswered_392163

    #3
    6,7,8, and 9 speed cassettes generally use the same width sprockets but the spacing is less on a 9 speed so a 9 speed chain is narrower. From what I have read breaking chains is usually from improper installation and shifting under load. I have not found anything anywhere that will agree on what a good chain is. It is like religion or politics.

    For chain length go by your original chain. If you have changed sprockets adjust by the number of teeth different.

    Web search Sheldon Brown Bike, There is more info there than you can read. The link is for if you don't have your original chain.
    Last edited by calfee20; 09-30-2016, 12:22 PM.

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    • Stepold
      Stepold commented
      Editing a comment
      From his site:

      Chain As you go to more sprockets on the cassette, you need a narrower chain. However, using a chain one size narrower than standard rarely presents any problem. Thus, you can use a "9-speed" chain with a 7-speed or 8-speed system, or a "10-speed" chain with a 9-speed system. This is not the ideal approach -- shifting may not be quite as smooth -- but it's workable.
      Narrow chains bring other problems, though. They are usually more expensive and -- with 10 or more speeds -- don't last as long -- even when used in the intended system.

      The narrowest chains also are more trouble to maintain. A master link, the SRAM PowerLink, makes it easy to disconnect a chain for cleaning. The 7/8 speed SRAM PowerLink works with SRAM and Shimano chains, probably others too. The 9-speed PowerLink works reliably with SRAM chains, but it may lead to a Shimano chain's jumping forward. The 10-speed SRAM Powerlock (note different name) is good for one-time use only: You must install a new one every time you reconnect the chain -- but then, if the chain has worn significantly, it will cause a "clunk" every time it comes around, because this one link is shorter than the others! Wipperman makes a similar "Connex" link for 10-speed chains and it is re-usable; there is also one from KMC. Shimano's 9- and 10-speed system is more trouble: you must press in a special link pin, using a special tool, every time you reconnect the chain, and this, too will cause a "clunk.

      So as I read his comments moving from a 21 speed to a 8 speed because of removing the 2 front sprockets could cause issues. As I wrote in other comments here, techs are leary of substituting even 1 speed different chains. I am curious due to 10 having to purchase a new chain for my now BBSHD powered bike. The Connex EBike chain is multiples more expensive than a regular chain so I will wait and contact them to get some input I guess. them

    #4
    There are chains made for ebikes, the quality of chains varies a lot and a mid drive puts more stress on the chain, so a good chain and proper maintenance and replacement are required.
    Alan B

    Comment


    • Stepold
      Stepold commented
      Editing a comment
      Yes but the question is what width when dropping 16 speeds and going from peddle to EBike. See my comment to JPLabs above. Thanks.

    • Alan B
      Alan B commented
      Editing a comment
      I thought that question was already answered. To summarize, 8 speed compatible chain that is tough enough for the higher stress of ebike use is required (24 speed and 8 speed chain is the same thing, the front chainrings are irrelevant). The chain width is determined by the cassette. Since you are breaking the chain, which is not at all common with the BBS02 as far as I know, you might want to determine why that is happening. (If the front chainring is between the min and max chainrings of the original crankset, then the standard chain length would not be causing breakage.) If it is due to chain quality then replacing it will solve the issue. Other causes would need to be addressed separately, such as wear on the cassette, chain maintenance, improper gearing, shifting techniques or program settings. The chain you linked above does not mention ebike use, so I presume it is not ebike rated. It is stainless steel which has superior corrosion resistance, is corrosion an issue on your existing chain? If not then perhaps you would be better off selecting an ebike rated chain. Chain life will be shortened with the higher stress of mid drive use, there will be less time between replacements, and chain maintenance becomes more critical, so the extended corrosion properties might not be useful since you'll be maintaining (cleaning and lubricating) it better or replacing it more often anyway. Monitoring chain wear and replacing the chain before it ruins the cassette is part of standard bike maintenance, and is more important with a mid drive. Have you measured the wear on your current chain?

    #5
    I hate it when a thread gets me spending more money. When I first put my bike together "http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/builds/ebike-building-directions/7325-bbshd-on-an-electra-cruiser" I had creaks and groans coming from the drive line. My thread lists everything I did and now my bike runs smooth and quiet. While I was having trouble I wanted to buy a Connex 7E8 but I couldn't find one or they were stupid expensive.

    I now have a Sturmey-Archer 3spd free hub with an 8 cog cassette. This gives me 24 speeds in one wheel. Well I found the chain for $30 with 124 links which I need. The seller claims this is a 6,7,and 8 spd chain but I am sure they are wrong. I will purchase a 7spd cassette to go with it but I won't be in a hurry to install it. I will wait until I get a couple of tires and do all the up grades at once.

    Wippermann Connex 7E8 6/7/8 Speed Chain - Save at Planet Cyclery the online bike store with the lowest price on components

    Comment


    • Stepold
      Stepold commented
      Editing a comment
      Your chain looks good enough for me. Thanks for saving me 35 bucks!

    #6
    I used that chain today for the first time. I had nothing but trouble. It is so wide it doesn't have enough clearance between the cogs and it kept trying to climb a gear...............I hope you haven't purchased yet.

    Comment


      #7
      No, thanks for the heads up. This is why I posted the issue, I guess there can be a too wide size. Thanks again.

      Comment


        #8
        Here is a photo of that Connex 7E8 with my KMC factory electra chain.

        Click image for larger version

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        The Wipperman on the top is a beast. The plate material the links are stamped out of are .050 as opposed to the KMC .039. The bad part is there are no chamfers to help shifting but forget that the chain is so wide I can't see how it will work short of me respacing a cassette and then my trigger shifters would be all off. I am going to save it for another bike with an IGH.

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          #9
          Good grief, that is wide!

          Comment


          • calfee20
            calfee20 commented
            Editing a comment
            The spacing on a 7 spd free wheel and an 8 spd cassette are the same and I could not get it to work on the cassette even though I adjusted it to run on just one sprocket. If I filed out the twist and bevels on the sprockets which are there to pick up the chain and help it shift I may get it to work. That is a lot of work though and it will ruin the cassette for everything else.
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