Rims, Spokes & Hubs...

[Gr8fun]

I have been reading this thread, deciding on spokes. Received the sa hybrid hub last week. Was just getting ready to order when i looked at a wheel sitting in front of me. The spokes were 1mm off from what i calculated. Laced the hub into the rim . now need to put on truing stand.
saved a week and $s.
Rain continues . sat clearing. Just in time to try this out. Ahead of schedule. Below budget.

[calfee20]

That is a nice break just in time saved.

[theronchaplin]

You guys have been a tremendous help, thank you.

I've ordered...

Alex DM24 rims (from Luna)

Sturmey Archer RX-RD5 5speed IGH w/ drum brake (from Universal Cycles)

Sturmey Archer XL-FD front hub w/ drum brake (from Universal Cycles)

Sturmey Archer SLS52 5speed trigger shifter (from Amazon)


Once I get the rims and hubs, I'll make the measurements, get spoke length, order those up and start building. The adventure will continue I'm sure :D

[FatMarty]

Try Edd - a spoke calculator that is well regarded.

https://leonard.io/edd/

Also make sure you use heavy duty spokes like Sapin race or similar because the electric motor puts more strain on a wheel than human pedaling ever can.
Look at DT Swiss Prolock nipples as well.

[theronchaplin]

Awesome! Thanks for the tip :D

[Gr8fun]

Looks good. Will look mich better on bike...

[calfee20]

Wow I have been looking at that front hub and I am sure it will work great for you. I am going to see how the drum brake works out for me before I decide disc or drum on the front.

You should use short pull brake levers for your drum brakes. S-A makes them and Universal cycle sells them.

I hope I am wrong but I don't think that trigger shifter will work with that hub. It maybe old stock that was used with the old hollow axle 5spd. The 5spd we got is a C50 series and it uses any S-A shifter with a C50 suffix. go to this page. http://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/rear-shifters

[theronchaplin]

Yeah I'm planning on getting the short pull brake levers once I get closer to putting everything on the bike. And as far as the shifter goes, I guess we'll see. I picked it up cuz I found a blog post somewhere from a guy who swapped the twist shift on the RX-RD5 for that one and was happy with it. Of course, now I can't find that post LOL.

I got the 90mm front since the front is most of your stopping power. Never could find the 90mm rear in stock anywhere but I think the 70mm will be fine. Long ways to go until I find out for sure!

[calfee20]

Well a twist shifter comes with the hub so you won't be stuck.

[FatMarty]

Well this weird - turns out I'm building new wheels now!
I post on this thread and then go to fix bike thinking it's just a worn out brake pad - and oops - broken tooth in my internal hub. :-(
So I couldn't find another Sturmey archer CS-RK3 in 32 hole; so I end up ordering a 36 hole one.
That led to a new rim, and then I decided I want matching rims - so make that two new rims.
Add in Sapim race spokes from Wheels Manufacturing and new rotors while I'm at it and I'm blaming you.
Just Kidding; but can I send you the $300 bill?

Just to be clear - I think my hub was problematic from day one - so I wouldn't let that stop anyone from doing the 3x10 speed setup you can get with that hub.
I've found that ordering on Amazon from their warehouse is often a crap shoot - and I believe this was a return as I had trouble getting shifter to work consistently long before I even added a motor to my bike.
Turns out it wasn't the shift cable at all - it was a dislodged pawl tooth that was interfering with smooth operation.
It finally rattled around enough in there be really noticeable when I tried riding a few blocks sans motor.
I think it was mostly stuck to the side of the case with grease up until the last few days.

[theronchaplin]

You can try sending me the bill... pretty sure it won't get paid LOL.

It adds up quickly, I get where you're coming from. I decided I wanted to upgrade the tires. Then I thought well, I really want an IGH anyways, so let's get some new wheels. Hmmm drum brakes sound interesting, yeah let's get those, rims, spokes etc. And of course I'm sure once I get to the point of actually mounting all this on the bike, something else will come up haha. But in the end, I'll have a bike that no one else has... customization FTW!

[FatMarty]

Well I just noticed where you're living.
Go Blue :-) seeing as you come off any Green :-)

[theronchaplin]

While I can't in good conscious root for Michigan, I will say Go Blue when ur playing Ohio State LOL

[Gr8fun]

Just finished.3x9 sturmey. New wheel. Cassette, tires. Now have 54 speed bicycle. Gearing insanely dangerous downhill.
Actually finding the limitations of motor.
Cadence is actually possible above 38 mph.
Low gear burn out on the tires 6 mph max..
I am sure i will be looking for new parts soon.

[theronchaplin]

I don't think I'd know what to do with 54 speeds haha. I'm amazed you can achieve meaningful pedaling at 38 mph?!?!

[calfee20]

Do you have two chain wheels?

[Gr8fun]

Two chain wheels. 52 and 38.

[Gr8fun]

Ron, check sheldon browns gear calculator.

Bikes are geared for operating primarily under 30 mph. Since this is pedal assist the gearing ratios need to be bumped up to get full effect of our puny additions to power at higher speeds?

The problem here is once you have the gearing, motor, then brakes tires frame etc. All be come unsafe at speed. Not reccomending this approach to ebikes. I think it might even be illegal. Part of the thinning of the herd.

[Gr8fun]

After using sheldon browns gear calculator then check onlune bicycle efficiency calculators. Now the theoretical limits of these motors are known. What is next is to see if theoretical is real.
Got to be a good fairing design. The wind really is a drag.

[Gr8fun]

Putting in a second bottom bracket and mounting motor there could solve the problem of motor overrunning cadence might be another option.

But seriously, i need to stop smoking to reach my speed goal of 45 mph with bbs02. The slightly more power of the bbshd will not give as much more as i could with no smoke.

Really liking this 3x9 sturmey. Thanks calfee for the positive review a month ago.

[Gr8fun]

The 45 is not remotely possible by me.40 is it. Bbshd would do it easier and longer. Faster. I worry sbout smoking this bbs02 motor by running in the 50% range of its rpm, where my effective cafence is. Its power just starts coming in when my pedaling can not keep up.
For cruising and range the higher ranges have been very good to me. Using a 52 ring using highest ranges need a downhill or wond at your back.
But for sheer enjoyment lower range with a 38 is a watt eater and excellent acceleration. Climbs hils easily.
54 speeds may not be neccesary, but finding they all have a purpose. Cadence is possible at 40 mph. I do believe speeds over 40 possible without copd..

[theronchaplin]

Wheels are laced. Now it's time to see if I can true 'em LOL. I've got some time before the tubes/tires arrive.

[theronchaplin]

I think it will be fun and I'm sure frustrating at times but in the end I'll be happy knowing I've got a good wheel setup.

[calfee20]

Due to Electra quality control I had to redo my factory front and rear wheels. This gave me some extra practice. I bought the same book and made the same stand. The most important step for me is taking up the slack. Get all of the spokes with a couple of threads showing and then evenly tighten just enough to get the rattle out. You want all of the spokes tightened the same amount so count the threads showing then keep them even and get them loose but not rattling. Your new rim is supposed to be true so with the slack evenly taken out the wheel should be quite true. Now you can evenly tighten a half turn or so at a time ALL around with little tweaks here and there to keep it true.

[theronchaplin]

Assuming I measured correctly and ordered the right spokes, that is the plan. Looking forward to it :D

[calfee20]

Here is that thread with an Eclipse that wouldn't fit a certain Connex chain. http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...-cyclone/page2

[FatMarty]

I tighten all the spokes just until no threads show after initial lacing.
Then I start truing.
This has worked perfectly for several sets of wheels I've built.
Provided you have proper length spokes this is the normal way to do it.

Just make sure you set the outside spokes with hard plastic mallet or similar before truing and then set the spokes in groups of four (2 on each side) by squeezing them together at the crosses after truing and then repeat truing and setting if necessary.
If you don't set spokes both ways your wheel will keep going untrue and weak rather quickly.