Alright so i read all of your advice.
i bought new cheap chain and chain breaker(10$ together), i will straithen the freeweel and remove the rust from it and will see what happend.
for the last part i need the name of the screws that make the bike folds so i could order them online too.
How relaible is to buy a battery from alibaba?
About the rust removel i will order from here because i think the mail have issues when ordering "chemical staff".
In the beginning i thought that im complitely fucked but you guys show me a way out so thank you very much:)
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Possibly of some help, TS folding bike specs here, hebrew google-translated to english. Note, loads automatic video/music.
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Cost savings could also be made (presuming the rear freewheel works or can be made to work) is to straighten out and hard set the derailleur into an easy / middle gear via its adjuster screws. For the frame "fold" quick release / screw, it look a lot like a quick release seat post clamp - perhaps they're interchangeable.
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Ok lets assume you have NO money. Since you are a soldier do you know any of the people who maintain the equipment. Could you get any assistance from them. Diesel or Kerosene with a little oil could be used as a penetrating oil. Soak the two folding joints and the locking mechanism. If you can get it to move just a little you will probably have success. The steel pins go into aluminum which will make it hard. Sometimes heat or a little work with a hammer and oil can loosen things up.
The heat will ruin the paint so try that last. I hate to mention the hammer because that is where an amateur will totally ruin things. BE CAREFUL.
The bent chain ring appears to be steel. If it is you could straighten it. Take off the chain and derailleur and put them into a container of diesel and let them soak. Get a small wire brush and work on that freewheel with oil to clean it up. Speaking of freewheel, does it turn? If it is frozen you will need a new one. I don't see much of a possibility of fixing a frozen freewheel.
Drip very thin oil down your control cables. Use gravity to your advantage for that............good luck for now.
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Originally posted by Poco Askew View PostFor rusty parts that cannot be easily replaced or cleaned, Ive had good luck using Ospho. I haven't used it on a bike, and it won't remove pits, etc., but it does a good job of stopping the rust and giving you a workable surface for painting.
The 'brush-on' treatments like this can be used without removing parts from the bike. Degrease part, paint on, wait, wash of. The active ingredient is usually Phosphoric acid, but as a jelly so it sticks. Naval Jelly is another brand.
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I had a 5 gal bucket system set up for one summer. 2 stainless plates and parts hang in center. I ran probably 20 batches through it. I just used baking soda, had some on hand, that worked pretty well. It was pretty effective! Powered with battery charger, so it bubbled and split water molecules, explosion hazard, as I understand, do that outside or use lower voltage. Then I got a cheap 55 gallon drum type bead blast cabinet, and never used it again.
But it really does work!Last edited by JPLabs; 02-03-2018, 06:19 AM.
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It rides on electric?! Awesome, do save it then!!
The bent 'gear' in the front is a front chainring. The replacement need not have the exact same number of teeth. Check for a stamped part number or other info to help. Like 46T130BCD. for example. Match the mounting configuration (hole spacing diameter).
And get a new chain, and cheap chain breaker, so you can make it the right length.
Last edited by JPLabs; 02-03-2018, 06:22 AM.
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I want to fix so it could fold for the beginning. If i can make the bike drive regulary for 50 dollars so also that.
im a soldier so i go and be back to home in tree weeks so i have time to buy the parts online if possible.
i wish that it would survive me a year+.
the battery and the motor is working..i ride only on the electricity.
i know that the wheel for the gear in the middle is twisted alittle. About the freewheel i dont know.
if you think one of the parts cant be repaired tell me its exact name and i will search online to buy it.
lets start with making it foldable and after that the chain and such...
the bike corrently driving on the e so im half good.
thank you so much for your help and sorry for my bad english
6 Photos
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Efrain should not feel bad. Some years ago I bought a basket case Mongoose on craigslist with sla batt that barely made it half way down the block even after purchasing missing and defective components. The guy told me to plug 120v ac into the 24v dc charge/discharge port. I could have blown myself to smithereens.
I was moving and I couldn't take everything so it went out to the curb and I almost never throw anything out.Last edited by max_volt; 02-02-2018, 03:20 PM.
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For rusty parts that cannot be easily replaced or cleaned, Ive had good luck using Ospho. I haven't used it on a bike, and it won't remove pits, etc., but it does a good job of stopping the rust and giving you a workable surface for painting.
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Just saying it looks like something you get if you toss a fishing magnet in the ocean. If this is truly all the bones Efrain has then I would take a wire brush to it and apply wd40. Will it roll again? maybe but I cant imagine any electrical part surviving.
I just read that Israel is the ebike Detroit.
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That thing is really trashed. Better strategy is to prevent that, generally, not fix it. ;) But since you are stuck with it....ok.
First, keep your eyes open for free donor bikes for cheap parts. Shifters, cables, chainrings, 'bike parts', these all tend to be standard parts. It's the electric drive and folding parts which are hard to find. The bike can be fixed cheaply, if you scrounge or work hard enough.
Google Electroytic Rust Removal. Uses a tanks of water and DC voltage, and washing soda or a similar conductive additive. Maybe you can save enough parts that way to make it work again.
That bike is bad enough that replacing all the rusted parts probably won't be worth it, but cleaning them up MIGHT be. For example that screw toggle clamp that has large, course threads in your first photo does not look like a common part, you may need the OEM part to replace it, or tap new threads. Or, de-plate the rust off the old one.
Penetrating oil is a first step, to get it apart. Any oil needs to be completely removed for de-rusting. Dishwasher works great. Or, just wash in hot water with soap until clean.
Bead blaster would help, sure. Investment though, compressor etc needed. That de-rust-in-a-plastic-bucket method above costs about nothing.
Last edited by JPLabs; 02-02-2018, 11:26 AM.
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