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What is in your Solder kit? Where did you buy it?

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  • svenpup
    replied
    I have this knock off 936 and love it. I always thought I was a crappy at soldering, but it was really just trying to use a crappy wand style iron.
    I prefer the 900M-T-3C style tips.
    As the essential accessory for soldering task, they are of great significance. Except that, they are in compact size; room-saving and easy to carry with. Power Consumption: 45W. Station: 936 Station. | eBay!

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  • max_volt
    replied
    I need an iron with auto shut off. My brain forgets to de-energize the thing then a few days later I feel heat and then cuss myself out.

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  • Louis
    replied
    I've always used joining techniques similar to the old western electric standards. No failures

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  • JPLabs
    commented on 's reply
    Sure, if you like what you have and it works, no need to change.

    I switched from simple irons to a soldering station a few projects ago. One thing I like about it is that it doesn't overheat if left plugged in while work pauses, so it doesn't tend to cook the flux out of the solder or corrode the tip nearly as fast. Tinning on the tip last a lot longer. An unregulated iron can be used to good effect, but they do get way too hot if left on too long between joints. And, once you start the joint, it adds power as needed. It made soldering easier, for me.

    Mine was from Radio Shack on sale for $35 I think. You probably can't find that deal anymore, but there are others at around $40 that rate well. So not too much extra expense for even a single ebike build, if you don't already have something to solder with.


    I usually run mine at 660F with 60/40, unless I really need a fast melt for an XT90 or something, then I temporarily crank it to 750 or a little higher.
    Last edited by JPLabs; 07-25-2016, 08:04 PM.

  • Alan B
    replied
    Good crimps are better than solder joints, especially in a vibratory environment. Adding extra joints to a wire is not the best way to go. I have not had failures with proper crimped joints. The manufacturers of the connectors don't recommend soldering, and they know their connectors better than anyone.

    A soldering station is for electronics work. PC boards and small stuff. It is overkill for a couple of wires, but it will work. They are temperature regulated which is good if they are sitting idling for awhile, they will not overheat.

    For soldering wires on the bike I use a 120V soldering pencil, not a soldering station. For soldering the occasional small wire a 25 or 30 watt soldering pencil is fine. The one I have has a pushbutton to jump it temporarily to high power which I rarely use.

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  • Rodney64
    commented on 's reply
    I have never used a soldiering station and probably never will. The soldiering iron that i currently have is 80 watt. Its all trial and error and you need a good iron with a heavy head. my current iron is a Duratech TS-1485 80W,

  • Louis
    replied
    I can't get excited over changing to another connector. I'm going to solder my CA3 connections. As to soldering, given my low use, I'm finding the budget pens work well enough. Heck some station tips are nearly the cost of a cheap solder iron. I'm all for good tools but not needing a unit for lots of electronics work, I'm keeping my budget for goodies that make the ride more comfortable.

    Looks like a nice station considering what some cost.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    I have been spending a lot of time with a very experienced electronics technician, and he uses these instead of crimping his own JST connectors: http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...spacing/1.html.

    They are available in 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 pin. His argument against crimping your own connectors is that he has never seen these preassembled connectors fail. The downside is that the wire colors probably won't match your component's wiring, so you should use colored heat shrink tubing to avoid confusion.

    As for a soldering station, I am saving up for this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weller-WES51...oAAOSwHjNWAXVo
    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 07-24-2016, 01:39 PM.

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  • New Mariner
    replied
    Not the cheapest I have seen. They have a really cheap one on Amazon. But if you need it right now like I did, in stock at radio shack. https://www.radioshack.com/products/...ant=5717834693

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  • New Mariner
    replied
    Thanks for the Amazon link Louis. Prime too!

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  • JPLabs
    commented on 's reply
    Old PC heat sink for holding wires, that's clever! I'll try it.

  • Louis
    replied
    I had a pricey station go south and took up with cheap Amazon irons. So far I've gotten scores of projects out of a $14 kit. I think the one or two bike household can do very well with a budget kit. I just posted one for $15 that had enough solder for a dozen projects. I made my first helping hands out of copper wire stripped from romex and alligator clips. A used heat sink from a computer made a slick little wire soldering, joining table.

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  • Alan B
    replied
    OK, there are some good Hakko/Weller clones that have replaceable tips and don't cost much. I use Hakko and Aoyue and the Aoyue is not bad. I haven't tried to get replacement tips for it yet but according to the sra-solder website they are interchangeable. With the dial adjust temperature the tips last longer if you turn the temperature down or shut it off, they warm up fast with 60W or so of electronically regulated heater.

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  • tychay
    replied
    Yes should have mentioned that. As Alan mentioned definitely do not use this flux for soldering electronics! There is already rosin flux in electrical solder so there is no need for flux when soldering. However, I've found that when a tip is very oxidized there isn't enough flux in the core of electrical solder alone to recover the badly oxidized tip with solder alone (though it's fine when tinning for the first time or if the tip only has a couple places it's oxidized). It could be because I'm terrible with the soldering iron, but I think it's because I mistakenly bought and used lead-free solder.

    Basically flux is a reducing agent to keep the metal from oxidizing until it gets burned away (that's the stuff in the smoke coming from the iron). I used plumbers flux only for tip recover which allows me to easily scrape off oxidized solder without scraping the plating on the tip. Plumbers flux, unlike (most?) rosin, creates a residue that is water soluble so you you can easily remove the excess (which you will have if you are dipping a hot iron in flux) after tip cleaning with water without re-oxidizing the tip by overheating (another reason to get a good soldering iron with temperature control instead of a cheapie). I think when plumbers use it, they don't worry about the corrosion because the inside of the pipe will flush the excess when the pipe is used and they wipe down the outside of the pipes with a wet rag.

    As for replacing the tip, my iron is so cheap, the tip is non-replaceable. I should get a $100 Weller or Hakko soldering station, but I solder so rarely and the copper isn't showing through just yet so I think I have a few more good uses before I have to bite the bullet on a decent iron.
    Last edited by tychay; 04-06-2016, 12:39 AM.

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  • Alan B
    replied
    Plumbers flux is usually acid core and acid core flux is never recommended for electronics as it causes future corrosion. Hopefully you were able to totally remove all the flux before using the tip for soldering electronics. Tips are cheap, perhaps just replace it.

    Usually lead solder and electronics flux will overcome lead free solder. Lead free solder is hard to work with and not recommended. It is required for commercial products in many countries but not for DIY work.

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