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EVG 2000 Police Edition Specs

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    EVG 2000 Police Edition Specs

    Can ANYBODY help me with my 36V Police Edition? Throttle has an odd 7-pins and lights up, but apparently my 36 volts from the 3 SLA batteries is too low to ride. Can't pull a rider! Where to put multimeter test probes to confirm batt voltage? It's a 2-piece battery with 1 of the 3 12V batt's secured in the back panier. Since I can't find any reference material for this mod of the SX, Is this a brushed gearmotor- the same as the SX? That would be like there is no diff btw the 2 models but accessories, right? Do I have to buy a new 7-pin controller? I can't find one anywhere on Aliexpress. I passed HS physics, but I don't understand electric wiring if IC's/headers are involved.
    As for maintaining the hubmotor bearings, all I could find was:
    What happens when motorwheels need lube? There is no way to tell if it is time. Is this a professional-job problem?
    Last edited by EVG2000-PE; 08-21-2021, 05:06 PM.

    Old post, but unfasten the battery and remove from bike. Flip the battery over, handle down. You will see where the power comes out of the unit to the bike. Put the tester probes on the recessed power points. Fully charged 36 volt SLA battery should be 38 to 39 volts. If you want to replace it with a new SLA battery, Electric Wheels of Utah may be able to fix you up. Try ebay search (evg bikes) to get in touch with him. He bought up all the inventory when EVG went under, I think he has some custom made 36 volt replacement batteries. A better suggestion would be to go to 36/37 volt lithium. I think Electro-ride will make custom sizes to fit inside the battery box. Check around for others. I went to 52 volts (with a new controller and motor) and am getting 3 times the range and much lighter.


      On reading your post again, the single battery on the rear rack plus two in the battery box is a work around to get to 36 volts. Originally it was a one piece 36 volt, 8 ah battery, custom made. Check each battery individually (~12.8 volts). If they are ok, then you want to follow the circuit for negative on one end and positive on the other end of the string. These 12 volt, 12 ah batteries are sold everywhere. Try Batteries Plus Bulbs.


        Thanks for the help, Rad45. First - clarification: the OEM built-in seems to be 36V, and one of the SLA batteries is on the handlebars and is only hooked up to the popo lights. I assume it has the OEM 36V, but the popo always added another SLA in the back pannier, normally 12V, with a blocking diode, in-line - for extra amps. I did feel around and I might have the right test locations. With built-in charging electronics, testing the contact pads assume things I cannot know. But that inboard batt is near-death. Is it normal for hosed batteries to only run a brushed gearmotor when the wheel is off the ground? Seems like overnight it stopped pulling any load, but makes the usual loud racket. Which brings me to the bearings. It's REAL hard getting into that 500W Heinzemann. Are current brushed motors geared? Are these such junk the engineering doesn't matter enough to allow easy internal inspection? It's nice when you can look at an assembly and say - oh it's that thing, and it will cost me about X dollars. With the all-electronic pulsed designs out now, it's real hard to tell how the thing is designed to work, and seems like voodoo to economically debug problems. I assume current products have a entry, mid-range, and an enthusiast/cutting-edge market segmentation - are ANY of them designed for customer understanding? Thanx again!


          First, hook up a power cord to the built in charger that is attached to the battery. The led should turn red and you will hear the fan. When it is fully charged, the light turns green.

          When done, open the plastic battery compartment lid. Unlatch the battery and remove it from the bike. You will see two spring loaded pins in the lower part of the bike where the battery was. This is where the bike gets its juice. Now turn the battery over, handle down. You will see the battery block that fits against those two pins - black, two Phillips screws and two indentations. Set a multi meter to a DC setting more than 37 volts (mine is 200 volts). Being careful not to touch the probes to each other (sparks fly), put one probe in one indentation, the other in the other. The meter should read the voltage. For a 36 volt sla battery, it should read around 38.4 completely charged.

          As these one piece 36 volt batteries are difficult to find and only 8 amp hours, some have put two 12 volt 12 amp batteries in the case and another in a rear rack bag. Wired in series, that makes a 12 amp hour, 36 volt battery and easier to replace.

          The Heinzman brushed motor was state of the art in 1998, but now much better choices. Electric Wheels of Utah did sell replacement motors on the rim, but no replacement brushes or other motor parts. I never had to lubricate mine and the brushes wore out at 7000 miles. You could hear the gears, but not terribly loud. Most bikes today run brushless except for some really cheap Chinese.

          I switched to a different motor/controller.
          Last edited by Rad45; 04-19-2022, 04:55 PM.


            I believe the police addition was mechanically the same as the regular 36 volt model. Here are the owner's manual and service manual:

            36-volt-ebike-owners-manual.pdf (

            36-volt-ebike-service-manual.pdf (

            As far as the seven pin plug and all the wiring, EVG was kinda making it up as they went along. (Almost) Nothing on the bike is today's standards. Good luck.
            Last edited by Rad45; 04-20-2022, 03:13 PM.


              Yes, that last bit is a drag. But I've read that the 500W models can simply be upgraded to 48V and risk only faster brush depletion. Never had the motor apart b/c no manual anyway I don't know if a torque wrench helps ensure longevity of the reassembly (twisting and vibration.) I wouldn't want to get that wrong - mostly a horsepower being crammed through that aluminum housing.

              Anyway, the wheel still only turns when it's off the ground, although the motor makes a pretty loud whirring. Is there somehow it got broken without me noticing? I'm the only one who could have been running it. I just don't know how it works inside there, and I get the impression that a higher shaft speed or more force on a pinion is needed to get the wheel fully engaged. How confused am I?
              Last edited by EVG2000-PE; 06-29-2022, 05:57 PM. Reason: returning to original purpose of the posting